Sound deadener install and interior dismantling pics (56k = fuct.)

[jaydub]

Finally got off my ass and did about half of the sound deadening. Also ran cables for my amp, set that all up, got the xovers mounted, next up is the door speakers, and I'm gonna have to chop the door up pretty good. :D

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_01.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_04.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_05.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_06.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_07.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_08.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_09.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_10.jpg

Put the Alpine CDA-9815 in too, i'm LOVING this head unit, I like it more than I liked my 7897.

[Ocelaris]

While you're down there, I would reccomend adding some carpet padding, or jute, the non-rubbery stuff. The mass loading method isn't going to do much to your already non-vibrating floor boards... In fact Since I noticed that Honda had already done a good deal of mass loading below the front seats and back seats/trunk area, I omitted mass loading on that section, and focused on the panels that I could make a sound on (rap the car with your knuckle, if it doesn't make a noise, chances are dynamat isn't going to help at all) I did however put dynamat stuff on the doors and back panels where there are two "skins" of metal. Try and scrape the rubbery (actually asphault material of some sort) pads that are plastered to the floor boards, they feel like asphault to me.

Check out the thread I made in "interiors" I was going to post a thread in electronics, but thought it belonged in interiors, so hopefully now people will see both. looks like we have the same RCA cables :) Knuconcepts?

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=10006

Looks good so far! Ocelaris

Nice Headunit too, I got the 9813 actually, the next step down, (minus blue lights, and I-personalize), but would you be interested in comparing notes on the actual faceplate? I've taken mine apart and looked at all the SMD (surface mounted Device) LEDs, and mine actually has 3 incandescent bulbs that have little green caps on them... Assuming for dimming purposes... I'd be curious as to the lighting patterns that yours does... Like I took off the front cover of the faceplate, and plugged it into the radio, turned it on... very cool to see the different LEDs light up at different times, (like in the mx function, or eq settings etc...) If you want, I can take some pics, and you can see mine, and see what I'm talking about. I'm considering getting rid of my orange LEDs, and replacing them with bright red ones... but that's a future mod.

[jaydub]

Yep, those are KnuKoncepts! :D

I was going to do the close cell carpet padding while Iw as there, but I may give your jute a try on the remaining panels. I mostly did the floor because I knew I'd have the carpet out to do the cables.

[Ocelaris]

heh, I accidentily ordered a negative battery terminal from KnuKoncepts instead of a positive one :-/ had to pay like 40$ for a local one because duct taping the negative one on wasn't holding :-) And my radio kicked out the other day driving on the highway... heheh, guess the amps are drawing too much current :-/

But can't beat their prices... all good quality stuff...

I worked for a company this last summer doing home theatres... they have something called acoustical paneling, which is hard compressed fiberglass... that stuff took out ALL sound... like absolutely nothing got through those panels... unfortunately they don't make fiberglass that is thin and in sheets... though the idea of very small threads is what really absorbs noise the best. So the sky's the limit, but the fiberous carpet padding was cheap and did an awesome job so far... My biggest problem now is the engine noise... if that could be considered a problem. Nice to have some noise, just not the rocks kicking up etc... Ocelaris

[Jpax]

Very cool install, you got going there Jaydub.

I wonder how Quiet the car will be after the sound deading. :o

[jaydub]

I can tell you that even with only half of the car done, it's quieter already. I didn't have to blast the stereo to be able to hear it due to road noise. We'll see when it's all said and done, but I'm expecting it to be quite improved.

[cmk05]

When stuffing dynamat in the door, is it supposed to be applied directly on to the garbage bag vinyl weather barrier behind the panel?

Thanks in advance.

[jaydub]

Most of the time, the plastic or vinyl weather barrier is totally thrown away, and the holes are covered with dynamat or whatever material you're using. This does two things: Replaces the plastic barrier, and it also makes your door into a somewhat sealed enclosure. Most of the people I've seen apply it to the doors cover the holes with their deadening material. You could always hold onto the seal and reapply it afterward for extra protection.

[Ocelaris]

Jaydub said it as best as it could be told, just thought I'd confirm that I ripped out all of my foam pieces and plastic covering, and replaced them with the asphault sheeting I used to make a barrier... I also covered them with a layer of carpet padding on top of that. Always make a barrier to the inner skin of the car, whatever you use, whether it be the original plastic sheeting, or dynamat/asphault sheeting. Best Ocelaris

Picture Caption: Here you can see the original openings on the back panel. the panels had foam that inserted into them, which I ripped off and threw away.

[Ocelaris]

Picture caption: Here you can see I covered the openings with Grace company, "Ice and water guard". similar to the original dynamat.

I wish I Had a good picture of my door, but this was the only before and after pics covering a opening in the metal skins. Hope this clears things up. Ocelaris

[fsugatorbait]

Originally posted by cmk05
When stuffing dynamat in the door, is it supposed to be applied directly on to the garbage bag vinyl weather barrier behind the panel?

Thanks in advance.

When I did my doors I first covered all the holes in the door with dynamat, wasnt too impressed with the results so when I put my baffles in, I cut out the holes and reached inside the door through the holes and applied it to the outer skin of the door. Using the three holes in the door I was able to almost cover the entire door...made a world of difference.

[jaydub]

Yeah, I should've clarified. When you are deadening your doors, the inside of the door (like where the window slides into) is the most important part to apply the deadener to. The instructions I've got are as follows, from the guy who I bought my stuff from, www.raamaudio.com


The doors are the most important area to mat for SQ in all vehicles, you get better midbass response(that is if you have speakers in the doors) and reduces a very large amount of road noise.

Here is my standard front door deadening technique for the most benefit and reasonable weight gain.

1) Remove the door panels and the factory clear plastic seal attached to the door, through the seal in the trash! You can either cut around the goop they hold it on with or peel it off and lay the mat over it.
2) Install one layer of a good quality aluminum backed mat inside the door on the outer door skin covering as much of that area as you can reach, overlapping the seams around 1/2". Whatever brand you choose, the aluminum ones are the better material, higher grade usually and in multiple layer situations really stiffen the area applied to.
3) Next, right behind the speaker locations, on the outer skin add two more layers approx. 12" sq or whatever fits, on top of the first layer.
4) Add a couple layers of mat around the speaker mounting area to stiffen up that for less resonance or even better yet, make a baffle out of MD., etc. then a bit of mat on that as well. Cover all the access holes in the door, usually I just use big pieces and seal up the whole inner panel, where you removed the factory plastic seal, overlapping the seams and cut the mat back about an inch from the edges of where the door panel will cover them.
5) This is not absolutely needed but I always do it and the results are nice, use a layer of 1/8" close cell foam over the mat on the door, cut it about 1/2" back from the edge.
6) Finally, tap on the door panel and add strips of mat to the back to deaden any resonate areas, usually about a third of the door panel will do.
7) Put the door back together and enjoy the difference right away, reduced road noise and improved midbass response will be readily apparent.
8) Rear doors are the same if speakers in them, if not then just seal the doors by replacing the factory one, foam is good to use as well though.

This is the minimal door deadening I consider adequate for all cars and trucks no matter who made them.

There are other tricks I use like wrapping the rods for the door locks, etc. in foam tape where ever they are close to each other, keeps them from rattling. I also build solid baffles for the speaker mounts and brace the inner door skin with 1/8" thick walled aluminum channels, spray undercoating on parts I cannot reach, etc. One more favorite thing I do is cut some sheet metal to fit the openings in the inner door panel, the ones you reach through to mat the outer door panel, just big enough to overlap the hole then use a couple of screws to hold it down. I mat over that to make a more solid air space for the midbass, I use perforated aluminum as lighter and does the trick but regular sheet metal will do.
Better to have the mat stuck to something in that area than just covering a big hole.


Good stuff.

[jaydub]

Sorry about the pics folks, I'm trying to find out what is going on with my host, and hopefully I'll get them back up quickly. ssvr6 has also put them on his www.k-series.com site.

[BlackNRedSi]

Jay that is a great job that you did....!!!!

is that alpine deck the same one that i used in my whip?

i have a small scratch on mine! urg, those things are sooo scratchable! but very nice decks!

[jaydub]

It's probably pretty similar, except mine's a 2003 model. :cool: I actually haven't taken pics of it yet, that's not like me. :D

[BlackNRedSi]

yeah mine is either a 02 or 03 model now dont go knockin my deck FONZ! :)

you going to resond to my email i sent you PUNK!

:)

Eric

[jaydub]

hehe i'm in the process of trying to figure out wtf is the deal with my subs. I'll reply shortly. :angel:

[BlackNRedSi]

Ill tell you WTF the deal is with your subs!

they went to SoCal, instead of your house....:)

ok...im going to a lunch meeting reply when you can...

peace!

[Sidriver]

hey BlackNredSi did you spray paint your mounting kit for your head unit or did it come like that?