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jaydub
03-25-2003, 09:23 PM
:D

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_05.jpg

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_08.jpg

SubliminalSi
03-25-2003, 09:25 PM
Jebus, is that your car?

jaydub
03-25-2003, 09:31 PM
Yes indeedy!

DownTheHatch
03-25-2003, 09:34 PM
It looks like an advertisment for reverse-viagra.

NemesisITR
03-25-2003, 09:38 PM
Hmmm.....looks like I might have a project coming up!!!!:D

IceD out N CALI
03-25-2003, 09:43 PM
Originally posted by DownTheHatch
It looks like an advertisment for reverse-viagra.

haha:D

Loudpedal
03-25-2003, 10:03 PM
At the risk of sounding like I'm retarded, I hafta ask....uh, what exactly are you doing?

jaydub
03-25-2003, 10:10 PM
Originally posted by Loudpedal
At the risk of sounding like I'm retarded, I hafta ask....uh, what exactly are you doing?

hehe it's sound deadening material. Car audio related.

chubbychu
03-25-2003, 10:11 PM
dynamatting

Bushido
03-25-2003, 10:14 PM
sorry, newb question, whats dynamatting?

SpeedRacer
03-25-2003, 10:17 PM
dynamat is a product that reduces vibrations so when you have a real big sound system pumping out alot of bass it wont rattle and it will sound better. Not performance oriented at all though. to each his own. Im trying to shave weight off my car not put it on but then again im not installing a phat system either.

jaydub
03-25-2003, 10:31 PM
Dynamat = Overpriced though. And the way I see it, my car is slow. It'll always be slow, and it'll take a lot of money for it to not be slow... and even at that point, it'll only be marginally faster.

cmk05
03-26-2003, 07:19 AM
jaydub, have you reassembled your car yet?

what are your impressions of your soundproofing efforts? how well does it quell road noise/ improve stereo sound?

besides the floor, where else did you apply the sound deadener? how long did it take to gut yer car? got any tips?

thanks in advance.

ssvr6
03-26-2003, 08:20 AM
What was the time involved and do you have more pics?


Steve

jaydub
03-26-2003, 09:17 AM
cmk - so far the improvement is noticeable, but not astounding. I have only done half the car though. I can tell that the road noise is much decreased, because I didn't have to turn my stereo up as loud as usual. I started gutting the car at about 10:30am, and with a couple of breaks, I was done and re-assembled by 7:30pm. I was also by myself, so two people could get it done much faster. Gutting the car took longer than putting it back togehter, there are some very well hidden screws holding the console in place. :mad:

Steve - if I had really busted my ass, I could've done the entire floor and trunk in one shot. I was tired though, the fatigue factor is high in this sort of stuff, because you're constantly crouching, huddling, kneeling, and bending over, so i'm sore as a mofo. I guess I used muscles I hadn't used in ages, because I was sore in areas I didn't know I could be sore in. I felt kinda gay because my ass was raging sore. :D

I can tell you that deadening the doors will have the most benefit, and the floor is kind of unnecessary (unless you're an overkill nazi like me). I was running my cables anyway, so I just made a day of deadening the floor.

more pics at http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat

:)

Loudpedal
03-26-2003, 05:29 PM
ah, I see. Thanks for the expl. jaydub.

And here I thought you were readying your car for atmospheric re-entry for the next shuttle mission to the Space Station.

whtep19
03-26-2003, 08:15 PM
You have entirley too much time on your hands;)

jaydub
03-27-2003, 10:07 AM
Ok guys, here is a couple more pics and some instructions.

1) Remove the front seats. There are four bolts holding them in place. Remove those and unplug the plugs underneath the seat. From this point on, DO NOT turn your car on, or the airbag light will come on and stay on. After you have removed the front seats, you have much more room to work with.

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_11.jpg
2) Remove the screws in the circled areas of picture raammat_11.jpg. The ones toward the front (where it says 'see note') are not screws, but plastic rivets. You will have to break these off, but I didn't bother to replace mine during reassembly. After you have removed those screws, get a set of needlenose pliers and grip the rubber mat in the bottom of the cubby hole, it comes right out. Under that there are two bolts which you will then remove.

3) Remove the panel where the cig. lighter is. You'll need to be very careful when prying it off, because Honda uses very soft plastic, and it will scratch and chip if you aren't careful. Once the panel pops out, unplug the cig. lighter and put that panel aside.

4) There are four screws inside the area where you removed the cig. lighter panels. Remove those and the entire console will be lose. They do snap together, but it's easy to pop them apart. Lift the rear portion off first, then the front portion will slide out.

5) To remove the dead pedal, remove the visible bolt first. After that, insert a hex key in the hole, and pull as you turn it. It'll pop right off.

http://www.dubfusion.com/car_audio/raammat/raammat_12.jpg
6) To remove the rear seat bottom, remove the screw (circled in raammat_12.jpg). That is the only thing that holds the seat in place. Where the larger circles are shows where the seat snaps into place. Just pull upward firmly and it will snap right out.

7) Door entrance area panel removal. First, remove the bolt which holds the seatbelt into the floor area on the passenger and driver's side, then you can remove the other panels. For the passenger side, the kick panel is held on by two snap-in connectors. Pull outward and it should pop out. After that, you can remove the sill panel. it has three snap-in connectors on the inside, and four on the opposite side. Just pull gently, and it will come off. For the driver's side, it is the same way, except that you have to remove the cover on the gas door lever. You will see a place to pop it off with a flathead screwdriver, and under the cover is one philips screw. Remove that, and the cover will then come off like the passenger side did. The kick panel on the driver's side will come off the same way the passenger one did.

8) At this point, the only area where the carpet is still attached is behind the "guts" of the center console. Take a razor blade and slice where you can see that it is still connected. After that, the carpet will come right out. Toward the rear where your rearside panels are still in, you can gently pull the carpet and it will come out from behind the panel.

1abSi
03-27-2003, 01:16 PM
damn nice garage to have tile floors!!!

jaydub
03-27-2003, 01:21 PM
hehe it's not tile, that's just where the slabs of concrete meet in the middle of the garage. :D

Silver7
03-28-2003, 12:26 AM
truely great work & DIY guide!

thanx :):p