View Full Version : Custom intake under development

04-15-2003, 12:40 PM
Here's a rough drawing:

It will be made of fiberglass with epoxy resin, coated with ceramic engine paint.

The first phase will be the short ram part, followed by the separate heat-shield box.

The filter will be the same one used on K&N's Typhoon.

I'll post the progress here as it goes.

04-15-2003, 02:30 PM
You could skip all the trouble of making it yourself and just use an S2000 intake. It is basically the same idea with a cone filter inside an intake box. ;)

toe knee
04-15-2003, 03:32 PM
Originally posted by BlasTech
Here's a rough drawing:

It will be made of fiberglass with epoxy resin, coated with ceramic engine paint.

The first phase will be the short ram part, followed by the separate heat-shield box.

The filter will be the same one used on K&N's Typhoon.

I'll post the progress here as it goes.

cool beans!!! tell me how it goes... Im thinking about making my own ice box from my brother's stock airbox. Taking my time becuase i won't have my car back from the shop for awhile.

04-15-2003, 04:40 PM
So far, everything is coming to about $80 for the whole thing, including filter. I was lucky enough to find a local supplier of fiberglass right by my house, and the sales guy there has an OZ lancer that he wants me to show him how to fix up for auto-x.

If there's enough material left over, I might make a battery relocation box custom fit to the hatch wall. :cool:

(grabs tape measure, goes to garage)

toe knee
04-16-2003, 03:28 PM
Originally posted by BlasTech
So far, everything is coming to about $80 for the whole thing, including filter. I was lucky enough to find a local supplier of fiberglass right by my house

Hey man i was wondering if you don't mind what is the name of that company. I wanted to make a setup like this... (ram air)


I go down to Austin every month or so to party with friends that go to UT.


04-16-2003, 03:34 PM
The place is called "Industrial Composites" its near Slaughter and Congress on the south end. Thier number is 512-294-4477 (m-f 9-5)

They only have Polyethelene resin, but I want to use epoxy (stronger, less smell, more expensive) from Boater's world up north at 231-1559 (m-f 9-9, sat sun 12-5).

Those ducts can be ordered and cut to fit from a racing catalog for a few bucks... I remember seeing pictures of them on the honda-tech board in the DC5-EP3 section under the T1-R intake thread, just a couple of weeks ago.

They are sold as "brake ducts" and you can attach a hose to go up to wherever.

toe knee
04-16-2003, 04:26 PM
Originally posted by BlasTech
Those ducts can be ordered and cut to fit from a racing catalog for a few bucks... I remember seeing pictures of them on the honda-tech board in the DC5-EP3 section under the T1-R intake thread, just a couple of weeks ago.

They are sold as "brake ducts" and you can attach a hose to go up to wherever.

$100 dollars for the T1-R duct is alittle to much. The whole reason I am doing this mod is to save money and i am tired of waiting for the comtech ice box. I was wondering where can i get a "brake duct" at??? What catalog do you speak of??

Tony :)

04-16-2003, 08:05 PM
Heres what I was referring to in the T1R thread:

A quick search for "brake duct" on google yeilds lots more like:

I made a T1R intake for myself for $5 out of metal, but it was iffy because of water concerns, hence the new intake project ....

toe knee
04-16-2003, 08:30 PM
thanks for all your help man... Maybe we (including you, meet and my brother fASTBACK) could me up next time i go down to Austin. I am talking to a guy that is a american rep for the idol motorsports company and he said he will give me prices soon.

04-16-2003, 08:31 PM
Just let me know when you're coming through!

04-20-2003, 05:11 PM
I've got the short ram mold just about finished. Here it is on top of the full-scale plans:


That peice will be wrapped in fiberglass (a few times, at varying angles for strength), so it represents the inner volume of the short ram.

It's made from cylinders of 2" thick dry foam from the craft store...for flower arrangements. It needs some smoothing out as you can tell, and it bends downward about 5 degrees after the "bung" to help the big filter fit in there.

Its kinda tricky to cut out the foam, and I learned that its easier to cut the peices too big, then sand them down to size (the stuff sands easy-peasy). But still you have to make your cuts straight down through the 2 inch board, so I improvised a cutting tool from an old jigsaw blade, and used a block of wood along its edge to make sure my cuts were perpendicular. Heres the home-made sculpting tools:


What would have been really handy is a 3-1/8 inch diameter by 2-1/2 cookie cutter.... oh well.

04-20-2003, 09:30 PM
Also, a new site is in the works, documenting some DIY projects, feel free to contribute. EP3HACK (http://www.dmcknight.net/ep3hack)

toe knee
04-21-2003, 09:14 PM
man thats a lot of hard work... I know it will be well worth it when you are done. I like the ep3hack site. Very Nice:)

04-22-2003, 08:47 AM
Thanks, the intake is going to be a big part of EP3HACK site...probably in a month or two...I have some other small projects in mind though in the meantime.

The work isnt at all hard, the foam is cheap ($3 for a big sheet) and it sands really easy, so I just took my time figuring it out. I threw away 5 discs before I started getting ones I was happy with...the whole thing took about 2 hrs. so far.

PS: The REFERENCE section on EP3HACK has been updated.

04-23-2003, 11:25 AM
its big case. so my question is, is this the only airbox intake you are going to create or can i maybe get you to hook me up with one? BTW i still havent heard anything on that grand wagoneer that hit me at wendys on south lamar. oh, and i am thinking about painting my stock wheels black this weekend.

04-23-2003, 12:10 PM
OK, heres what the plan is. I'm gonna build one prototype, and probably another after I dyno it to get some improvements to the design (this is how everything I do goes... first one to do it, then one to make it better)

After that, I'll know if its worth doing for money, but I'm always glad to share plans and time to help you make one on your own.

So maybe when I get the first one done, you can help me make two improved versions.

04-23-2003, 12:25 PM
yeah man, just let me know. i am a graphic designer, so my craft skills have been honed to perfection. plus i worked in a bike shop as a mechanic for about five years. i would love to help you build some cool shit. my email at work is caseyj@tocquigny.com. so hit me when youre ready.

04-23-2003, 12:45 PM
It would be cool if you copy the Neuspeed P-Flo intake and sell it for $100. Sure beats the $240 they want for theirs.

Yours look very similar except their heat shield is stainless steel rather than epoxy like you plan on yours.

They also have 2 filters in place.


04-28-2003, 08:37 AM
Yes, It is going to be similar to the neuspeed, (especially since I chickened out on the crank-case bung, and plan to use a mini-filter too). The epoxy setup will resist heat way better than stainless steel.

Here's the ugly result of my foray into fiberglassing:


It needs sanding and painting now, then I hope to get the box done next weekend. The epoxy resin is the key here, to making it strong, along with offsetting the weave 45 degrees each layer (4 layers). The epoxy is a breeze to work with, doesnt smell (actually smells less than JBWeld does) and it gives you plenty of time to rework. I started with using fancy fiberglassing tools, but ended up using my hands to shape the last parts...its alot easier, just have at least 1 pair of latex gloves per layer at your disposal.

BigCase, my degree is in art, too, and I minored in engineering design, and it came in handy, as I discovered fiberglassing is like sclupting. Its definitely an artform for people who appreiciate industrial design. BTW I learned some cool stuff about ABS plastic fabrication that I want to try out too.

04-28-2003, 09:04 AM
yeah, my degree is in graphic design. no minor though. doing a project like the one you are doing scares me to death though. i took some sculpting in college, but was never really good with my hands. i guess if i would have practiced, i could have been good, but was too busy racing my bike. i want to do my headlights but i am petrified of screwing them up. man, i would like to see the finished product in person when youre done. dude, i painted my factory wheels black this weekend. was a bigger job than i expected. finished results look sick. we need to get an austin meet together soon. oh and check this out, my dad is getting a silver Si this week. hilarious. he loved mine so much that he wants one now. will the wonders of this car ever cease!!? keep up the good work.

04-28-2003, 02:38 PM
nice blastech :) I had no idea you were that good at this stuff. We gotta meet up at an autoxing event when I get back.

04-28-2003, 02:48 PM
Thanks! thats the first thing I ever did with fiberglass, but I've done all kinds of art and construction projects all my life. I just love to make stuff and learn new skills. :)

04-29-2003, 07:56 AM
To continue my research for the intake project, I purchased a digital thermometer with the teperature sensor on a wire.

I ran this from the engine compartment right where I want the opening to the airbox to be to right above my steering column.

Going to work today, I noticed a variance from 70 (when moving) to 90 degrees (at stoplights). After shutting the car off at work, the temperature imeadiately climbed to above 100 within a couple of minutes. I plan to leave the sensor there for a week, to get a feel for the average temps in that area.

Next is to move the sensor to the inlet at the front and compare its performance, as well as any other inlet spots I think might be suitable... including the one that Chronic is using on his "ghetto" airbox mod.

doing this process is going to prolong the project, but the research should pay off if I find a spot with the lowest idle/bleed temp, as auto-x has alot of idle/bleed time between the short runs.

04-29-2003, 08:06 AM
blastech - Could you possibly measure the ambient tempt. at the same time you are reporting the engine compartment tempt?

It is my understanding that the engine compartment tempt. is actually pretty close to ambient tempt. If this is true then it stands to reason why SRI and CAI do not improve performance much other than the sound affect. Well, maybe a little coz' more air gets in compared to the stock box. But that's about it.

Maybe you can get another thermometer. Hang the dongle at the front grill there the air enters the engine compartment.

04-29-2003, 08:15 AM
I generally at least know the ambient temp when I get in the car, So that helps. I'll give it a week and see what the differences are. I think this data is really going to help me get the coldest air possible...even if it means sticking with the stock input location...

04-29-2003, 04:41 PM
Man you are putting some hard work into this. I have to say it is great to see some one say they can do better and do it. When you get this done and if you still want to make more I might buy one. I can not wait to see the finished product.

04-30-2003, 08:24 AM
My wife and I talked about the costs/logistics of producing them a few at a time out of the garage. I'm looking at off-the-shelf ABS tubing now that I know the under-hood temps are looking safer for it, definitely an easier build, but the box will definitely be fberglass with insulation.

The more data I can get from my own research and dynos of similar products the better.

04-30-2003, 09:38 AM
Great R&D work...I recently started a R&D job and we use a lot of temperature probes on our prototypes. I'm looking forward to seeing more...I have a K&N Typhoon and it would be cool to see if your IceBox out performs it. If it does, $80 is a great deal & I would more than likely get it.

04-30-2003, 11:12 AM
Hey, it'd be less if you already have the $40 filter from your Typhoon!

I just got a couple of new ideas, too. One, from the SSR CTR, is the possibility of a cold air source than encloses the entire battery, and has a short tube with a filter right there on the TB... that may block air coming into the rest of the engine bay. I'll have to do some sketches.

So far it looks like the back corner of the battery stays 1-4 degrees above ambient when running (quite soon after start) and 20-30degrees above ambient when idling.

I assume than isolating that air moreso with an enclosure that draws from the AEM-INJEN spot will be cooler.

05-10-2003, 02:58 PM
Here's a development photochop, while I wait for weather and other conditions to be right for moving on..


The top of the box has been cutaway to clarify the internal parts. The entire top of the box will be covered, as well as the passenger side, back, and front.

The goal is to have the filter only get air from the corner behind the battery, and the rear corner back by the wheel well. Both of these areas are used by various intake companies. It is entirely cut off from the front radiator, as well as the header air.

The result should be a SRI that doesnt suffer the heat soak that most SRI's do, without any risk of hydrolock.

I'll try to find a way to attach the box to the chassis, and not the motor, which will allow for closer tolerance to its surrounding parts, meaning better air isolation.

The final product will have all the corners rounded out, unlike the illustration above.

05-10-2003, 03:40 PM
A better photochop:


This will require no alterations to the vehicle, or the original air box. :)

05-19-2003, 07:42 AM
I met Tuan from temple of v-tec ( http://www.vtec.net/ ) this weekend at autocross, and he is interested in how the project turns out, maybe an article or something will come out of it.

On antoher note, if Im not happy with the results on this one I could set out to do a battery relocation and one of these:

05-19-2003, 04:12 PM
can't wait to see how this turns out.

now that you've added blue to your twiddler, you should add a few more wheel choices;) :D

05-20-2003, 07:31 AM
Originally posted by Suk02Si
can't wait to see how this turns out.

now that you've added blue to your twiddler, you should add a few more wheel choices;) :D

Circuit 8's are coming soon, so are Heliums.

05-20-2003, 11:48 AM
Gotta add the CTR/FP wheel too

08-10-2003, 07:44 PM
This intake system is still under development, but I've been carefully following the Comptech Icebox results, and reports from other intake DIY-ers.

Right now the main tube with a branch is done, and the box model is made. Im perfecting the tube with layers of epoxy and sanding, but overall taking my time.

Today I did something a little different, and so far, its a pretty good result:

Plugging the first branch with silicone:


It looks messy on the top, but the inside is smoothed to the contours of the tube, since I used tape inside, then removed it after the silicone dried.

You'll also notice that I took the ribs out in the main chamber as hondata recommends.

Additionally, I've replaced the main intake snorkel (located by the battery) with this home-made metal intake mouth, that peeks just over the radiator where the grill is:


I flared the mouth out even more, and wrapped it up in a jacket of insulating material, to help keep the radiator and hose heat out.


So far, I havent been able to consistently test it out, but I got my best 0-60 yet with it.

My goal is to not lose low end torque, my inspiration was the autospeed article about eliminating negative boost: http://www.autospeed.com/cms/article.html?&A=0629

08-11-2003, 07:45 AM
Blastech - good deal. Now, it would be interesting to see with your setup, if you can run the exact same thing but with the hole unplugged. Unfortunately, you epoxy-ed it :(

Now, are you willing to cut out the dividing walls as well ala Hondata? And finally gutting the entire box too?

Any tips you can provide on removing the stock intake snorkel? I know it is attached via bolts near the radiator, but even after taking the bolts off, it seem difficult to take it off since the space is so tight. Heck, even after removing the stock intake cover 4 times now, it is still difficult for me.

08-11-2003, 08:23 AM
I sealed it with silicone caulk, and its a flexible material that I could push out with my hands, I did have the intake snorkel on the week before, but didnt do any real tests, just gut feelings and temperature taking--> it does get warm during idle, but once you get rolling it gets cooled down almost immediately to ambient temp, so metal is a good thing in that spot.

About removing the snorkel: First off, its next to impossible to remove this with the battery in, so remove the battery first. Now, remove the bolt from the snorkel and put it somewhere, next, the two nuts that are on the chassis. after that, the mounting piece can be removed by pulling and flipping it upwards. There is a bundle of wires running through there, in a plastic minder tube, but it doesnt break, it just is in the way, and out of view...you just have to work it out. The plastic end just "pops" off the rubber tube that connects to the box. dont worry if you pop the rubber tube off, it goes back on pretty easily.

09-08-2003, 08:41 PM
Im super interested in what you guy are doing. Just wanted to throw in my two cents. The stock snorkel that gets air from the grille seems to be the most restrictive part of our intake. I took that snorkel off and put a K$N in the stock intake box. I also drilled some large holes all around the box and its resonating compartments to relieve any back pressure.Seems to be a nice little gain, maybe equivilant to a SRI.
Did you mod the snorkel or is it stock? Looks like development of a quality intake.