UPS is so good to me today

[bioevolve]

After getting my TB back this morning, FEDEX brings me my new computer case and Power Supply. Then as I was Changing tranny oil (again) and installing the Skunk2 rear lower tie bar this afternoon, UPS stops by again with these:
To bad the pulley kit will not work with A3 dummy pulley substituting for power steering pump on A2 engine, pulley is in wrong place, to far back and the new pulley will not fit in :(
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pab8fbb7271003544ecf87f7be7dbb40b/fc01dbe7.jpg
The strut bar is like the X-Brace with deepwell bolt/nut ends.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p09c031abbdda49e4926d11b46d8203c7/fc01dba0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pecb401f611e5d787b6f36585abad2801/fc01dae0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p73b979349777d5caaf4fe58bb4845971/fc01dab3.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pf317071a2eeb9f970cf4bcaeccc9fff7/fc01db1b.jpg
Another use for silicone vacuum hoses :D
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p3d436116486b7322c0f12b7da95848c9/fc01dd28.jpg

[bioevolve]

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p6987c45cfa9a13ced4a4965021936459/fc01dcec.jpg
Skunk2 lower tie bar install
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p2ec57bc7dc305005d99eb932e646dec9/fc01dcc4.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pf588f101d7491bb8f49b8d014a1c61a4/fc01dcac.jpg
Make sure you follow the bolt you are removing with a phillips screw driver to hold the arm in place.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p7a0233dca042f42af70d63c25c9bb1ec/fc01dc8c.jpg
If you have skillzzzz you pull the phillips down with one hand and pry with flat tip here with forearm while pushing new bolt in on tie bar with other hand;)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pa3f147d8c84a404c25cab171d0da7d89/fc01dc5f.jpg
Finished
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p6dbd2e0632224030f155cff34ea5cd40/fc01dc40.jpg

[jerky]

does your car feel any different with the front upper strut bar?

[bioevolve]

I can't tell anymore with all the chassi stiffening stuff I've put on. It's so tight, the road feels like its moving for the car.

[jerky]

what else have you done?

[02TafWhtSi]

Originally posted by bioevolve
I can't tell anymore with all the chassi stiffening stuff I've put on. It's so tight, the road feels like its moving for the car.

Looks good! Any extra noise (rattling/squeaking) with your chassis mods? I'm thinking of going the same route with the Neuspeed products but am concerned about everyday driveability.

[bioevolve]

Stiffness:
Neuspeed=X-brace & Front upper Tie bar
ST Front and Rear Sway bars
Skunk2 Rear Lower Tie bar
Spoon Rear Upper Tie bar (enroute)
ES motor Mounts & GC coil-overs(dont know if these counts as chassi stiffner)
Soon some D3 Design products.

No noise so far, other than the GC coil-overs (I have no rubber between the strut tower and top of GC's) :p

[golferjn]

nice

[02SilverSiHB]

nice, but don't you think the pulleys were a waste? They don't do much as it is, but it's you $$$ :D

[bioevolve]

Well, now I'm getting the Unorthodox kit. every 1 pound off the crank is a 2.7hp gain. I think it's worth it.

[AkronSi]

Keep us posted on the UR pulleys. I'm intrested in doing that mod when they are all released for the Si. Unless their kit is out, I'll have to check.

[IceD out N CALI]

cool, all kinds of goodies

[ballsdeep]

Any tips on installing that strut bar I got mine a couple of weeks ago and still dont have it on. Did you use a torque wrench?

[bioevolve]

The instructions that come with are pretty good. Only problem is you can't use a deepwell socket on the 2 nuts closest to the firewall(no room). You will have to use a regular socket with a universal swivel joint and extention to get in there. I didn't use a torque wrench, it says to torque to 33ftlbs, but I just tighten the hell out of it, as do I with all my nuts and bolts hehehe.

FYI: The Redline MTL fluid made a real difference on shifting, it's not as sticky/hard when shifting. It's make shifting much easier. Diss ez m-eye o-pen-eon.:D

[bioevolve]

Looked at unorthodox's site and the Type-S stock crank is 8lbs and theirs is 1lbs :o The dyno on their site states a 12.5 hp gain, the would be about 1.78 hp gain per lbs of crank weight loss. That is NA, not FI.

[c0mf0rt]

So do we have word on when the UR pulley kit will be available??

[jerky]

Originally posted by bioevolve
Looked at unorthodox's site and the Type-S stock crank is 8lbs and theirs is 1lbs :o The dyno on their site states a 12.5 hp gain, the would be about 1.78 hp gain per lbs of crank weight loss. That is NA, not FI.

that is awesome.:eek: i've heard bad things about getting an aftermarket pulley for the crank. any thoughts on this? and does unorthodox make a kit for the si?

[bioevolve]

Type-S kit been out. I got an email back from them today:

Rich,
The part numbers you need are 02061120_ $225.00 (Crank) and 01063120_ $89.00 (Alternator). We cannot confirm any belt fitment without the P/S pulley. The Civic set is still in development and we don't have an idea on size yet. The belt is a 7 groove and there are not a lot of sizes available but if you can't find a size I would just use a 6 groove, there are more sizes available. Why Honda went with a 7 groove belt to run 4 accessories I don't know but running a 6 groove shouldn't be a problem considering they have been used on a number of applications that run more than 4 accessories.

Thanks for your interest,
Joe ///M

bioevolve wrote:

I have a 2002 Honda Civic Si with a 2002 Acura RSX Type-S engine swap.My question is I need your Type-S Crank and Alt pulley only, because the Civic doesn't have the power steering pump that the RSX has. The Civic had a dummy slack pulley in place of it, which sits farther back so an underdrive pulley for RSX power steering pump will not fit (it's to big). Is there anyway I can just buy the Crank and Alt pulley? also need the size of the belt for that setup, I'm guessing it would be the Civic set up belt maybe. Thanks, Rich

[jerky]

just got back from their site. 02 si pulley kit: TBA

they have an 8lb flywheel though.

[bioevolve]

UPS came again today, SIR TOOL H050 crank tool:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/pfb53870925c40ff7cc2b092fcba5330e/fc00177b.jpg
It does fit A3 Crank:D should fit the A2 Crank also.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid64/p874d69579d9164b3690de9e40af10cf3/fc001793.jpg
Now I gotta find one for the Alt hehehe.

FYI: Just weighed the A3 stock crank pulley on a cheap weight scale, it says 5lbs.

[Tekdemon]

that reminds me, I need to get a funnel...

I think the motor oil isn't even so bad without a funnel, but putting in friggin WINDSHIELD wiper fluid is ridiculous...the filler point is all the way in the corner down there...ugh

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by jerky


that is awesome.:eek: i've heard bad things about getting an aftermarket pulley for the crank. any thoughts on this? and does unorthodox make a kit for the si?
hey I've always heard about the problems from running an unorthodox crank pulley

[bioevolve]

What types of problems? I've heard of balancing problems on B-series motors, but A2's crank shaft is not as balanced as the A3 is what I've heard.

[02SilverSiHB]

The UR pullys, don't come with the harmonic balancer

Harmonic balancer: The harmonic balancer, or vibration damper, is a device connected to the crankshaft to lessen the torsional vibration. When the cylinders fire, power gets transmitted through the crankshaft. The front of the crankshaft takes the brunt of this power, so it often moves before the rear of the crankshaft. This causes a twisting motion. Then, when the power is removed from the front, the halfway twisted shaft unwinds and snaps back in the opposite direction. Although this unwinding process is quite small, it causes "torsional vibration." To prevent this vibration, a harmonic balancer is attached to the front part of the crankshaft that's causing all the trouble. The balancer is made of two pieces connected by rubber plugs, spring loaded friction discs, or both.
When the power from the cylinder hits the front of the crankshaft, it tries to twist the heavy part of the damper, but ends up twisting the rubber or discs connecting the two parts of the damper. The front of the crank can't speed up as much with the damper attached; the force is used to twist the rubber and speed up the damper wheel. This keeps the crankshaft operation calm.


Torsional vibration:
Every time a cylinder fires, the connecting rod hammers the crankshaft, making it twist as well as spin. After every twist, there's a rebound as the crank unwinds. This twist/rebound cycle is known as torsional vibration and if not controlled, it will result in rapid bearing and crank journal wear and can lead to a broken crankshaft

[bioevolve]

All I see on the stock crank pulley is an inner part then a rubber ring then the outer part of the pulley (rubber part is sandwiched between the two parts) making it a 3 part pulley. So that rubber peice is the dampner? I see no extra parts or weights attached to it like on older domestic vehicles. other than 4 holes drilled in the back of the outer part.
I don't think the UR SS crank pulley has that dampner, but if it causes so much problems, why do they sell it? Wouldn't they get law suits for selling a product that damages a heart of an engine?

Here is their side of the story, from FAQ:

3) "Isn't my stock crank/eccentric pulley a balancer, harmonic/torsional, or vibrational damper?"
A common misconception is that factory crank pulleys on certain vehicles are harmonic dampers. The fact is, on todays late model cars the factory crank pulley is designed to reduce NVH (noise / vibration / harshness), which does not affect crankshaft or bearing life. These are noises and vibrations from the engine compartment that may travel into the cabin of the vehicle when the engine is running and the stock crank pulley is used to reduce NVH for the occupants (similar to the use of resonators in the intake to quiet intake noise). We do not manufacture crank pulleys that replace or eliminate a damper in applications where the factory crank pulley is an actual harmonic damper (such as 90 degree V engines).

Our pulleys are lightweight, CNC-machined 6061-T6 aluminum and are by design "0" balanced. Because of this, owners have called to tell us how much smoother their engine feels after installing our pulleys. Unorthodox Racing has been manufacturing and selling pulleys for over 5 years without a single engine failure due to the replacement of the stock crank pulley. This is testament to the quality and reliability of our products.

Owners who have engines that use balance shafts must understand that if they eliminate their balance shafts their engines must be balanced and blueprinted if they expect to have no long-term engine problems with or without the use of our crank pulleys. This balance shaft elimination is rare and only happens on a few models that are modified for racing only (Eclipse/Talon/Laser/Galant VR4/Conquest TSI/Starion just to name a few).

4) "Will the underdrive pulleys cause my engine to have premature bearing wear ?"


This is a fear many prospective owners have and it is a valid concern since we are dealing directly with the rotating assembly. It is, however, a fear with no basis in fact. The fact is that our pulleys have the opposite effect on engine bearings. The combination of tight tolerances, quality control, perfect balance, and dramatic weight loss versus the stock pulleys reduces the stress on your engine extends the total service life you can expect from your engine. Engine bearing problems are purely associated to poor engine maintenance, use of heavier than factory recommended oils, improper engine building practices which includes poor balancing, excessively revving engines when they are cold, and owners expecting their factory oil pumps to handle engine HP outputs 2-3 times over stock HP levels.

[02SilverSiHB]

well, I tried doing some searching on clubsi. I remember a few years ago...about 3 I think. Some 99-00 si owners were complaining about it. But now from doing some searching, no one complains and people are buying it.

So I guess it's good to go.

I'm not trying to tell you not to get it, it's just that I've "heard" not actually seen, problems from their pullys. I guess they get away with it because it's just part of performance products...but you do have a point, if it is so bad for the car, how in the world would they have stayed in business so long.

So I say go for it :D

[jerky]

well i'm convinced. i'm getting the pulley set for the si.:D this was avery informative thread. i was so scared of replacing the crank pulley until now. :p