Difference between Single Voice Coil and Dual?

[Si02]

What the difference and which one is better? I am into bass in tha face. Thanks

[ADAMnQuickCIVIC]

just a guess but single has 1 and dual has 2 voicecoils....haha.

it depends on your amp to decide which kind you need.
two channel, four channel, etc?
what's your amp stable to?
blah blah blah.

been like almost 10 yrs since i was into car audio, so i'll let the non-rusty folks edumacate you some more...

[bsams]

the most important thing when deciding which route to go with subs is the amp. it all depends what ohm load your amp is stable at and in sterio or mono. say your amp is one channel for subs, and is 2 ohm stable. you can run a sub that has dual 4ohm voice coils, parallel each coil and the amp "sees" a 2ohm load. Let me know what amp you have and what its stable at ,and the subs your thinking about. And I'll tell you if your on the right track.

[BarracksSi]

Yup.

Or, you could use two subs, each with dual 4-ohm voice coils, and wire them so that they show the amp a 4-ohm load (conceptually, wire each sub in parallel with itself (4 divided by 2 = 2), and go sub-to-sub in series (each "2-ohm because of parallel wiring" sub adds together to total 4 ohms).

As bsams will say, your choice of sub -- or subs -- will also play a part in your decision.

Personally, I'm not too excited about running amps into a 2-ohm load, but that's just an opinion. There are plenty of amps out there that will run 2 ohms all day with no problem, and I'm wondering if there are still many amps that will drive even smaller loads (even down to 0.5 ohms!).

[Bo_Vien]

Originally posted by BarracksSi
Personally, I'm not too excited about running amps into a 2-ohm load, but that's just an opinion.

Barracks, can you explain why a 2ohm load is bad or unfavorable? And why would a company put out a speaker that is 3ohm stable when most amps (besides JL Audio) run at 4ohm/2ohm? I'm still clueless with audio equipment and only understand the basics. Thanks. :)

[BarracksSi]

With lower resistance, the amp is free to throw more power. With that comes added current draw & heat. It's like adding a turbo or blower to an engine -- it'll work, but with some concern about long-term operation.

Many amps in the last 15 years or more are designed to run properly at 2 ohms, and sometimes less. They'll run fine at 3 ohms as well (there's no given setting where an amp will run at either 2 OR 4 ohms).

Amplifiers are often rated for power output at 4 ohms simply because car speakers are typically 4 ohms. I remember some Precision Power amps that were designed to handle ultra-low loads of 0.5 ohms -- that way, a rated output of 25 watts into 4 ohms can be cranked way up to.. let's see.. 200 watts (each time the load is reduced by half, the wattage doubles -- 25W @ 4

[Si02]

Alright lets assume I have the proper amp for both the single and dual coil woofer. What are the differences and which one would be the best for bass. There is a sale on dual voice coil woofers at Best Buy and the sale ends Sat but I have no idea which one I should get single or dual. Thanks

[ADAMnQuickCIVIC]

Originally posted by Si02
Alright lets assume I have the proper amp for both the single and dual coil woofer. What are the differences and which one would be the best for bass. There is a sale on dual voice coil woofers at Best Buy and the sale ends Sat but I have no idea which one I should get single or dual. Thanks

A dual voice coil is no better than a single voice coil.
And vice versa.
It just depends on your amp, which one will work better w/ your particular amp.
Neither subwoofer has any advantage over the other as far as performance goes.
They will sound exactly the same.
Just tell us about your amp (channels, ohm stability, etc) and we'll tell you which sub to get.

[Si02]

Well I havent picked out a woofer or amp yet. I just shopping now but theres that special at Best Buy for a dual voice coil
http://www.bestbuy.com/CarAudioVideo/CarAudio/Subwoofers.asp?m=3026&cat=3015&scat=3013
Its the Power Acoustik FUBR Series 12" handles 1800 watts, 700W RMS dual voice coil for 129.00 a piece. I also was looking at the single voice coils but 1. they arent on sale and 2. I didnt know what the differences were between the two. What amp would I need to power possibly 2 12's? Thanks

[BarracksSi]

You can throw as much power at them as you want, really.

To make it easier to get a balanced sound, you'll have to consider how much you've got going to your other speakers (or, how much you PLAN on sending). If you're powering each other channel with, say, 50 watts, you'll do fine putting 200 watts to the subs. With a high power head with, usually, around 20W/channel RMS, using 100 to 150 watts would suffice.

You could also find some monster amp that'll let you really pound, then keep it turned low to sound musically balanced, and you'll have some reserve power for those times when you want to shake a barn apart.

You're free to make a lot of choices (as you can tell already.. lol).

[BarracksSi]

Oh yeah -- what SPECIFIC amp?

Don't matter to me none. I used a Califormia series Profile amp for a few years, and it did just fine.

Here's how I shop for an amp:
1. How many channels?
2. How many watts?
3. How little do I want to spend and still get quality?

Keep us posted on your progress!

[Bo_Vien]

Originally posted by BarracksSi
3. How little do I want to spend and still get quality?


Barracks, how do you go about determining what is quality or not? If both amps put out the same power/channels, what else besides pricing would you use to decide what to get?

[BarracksSi]

Usually extra features, like removable heatsinks or endcaps, crossover, subsonic filter, remote knob, speaker-level inputs or RCA-only, preamp outputs, extra modules, etc. There are some audio features that will, or will not, be necessary depending on how much control the head unit has (crossovers, filters, etc).

Sometimes size can be an issue, depending on where it would be installed. I would also read up on as many test reports as possible, paying attention to a brand name's tendency to do well -- or not so well. I'd also talk to as many people as I can, noting what they tend to use and whether it's caused them any problems.

Anything more than that, and I'd need amplifiers to play with and my own test gear -- both of which I just don't have.

[ADAMnQuickCIVIC]

Originally posted by BarracksSi
Oh yeah -- what SPECIFIC amp?

Don't matter to me none. I used a Califormia series Profile amp for a few years, and it did just fine.

Here's how I shop for an amp:
1. How many channels?
2. How many watts?
3. How little do I want to spend and still get quality?

Keep us posted on your progress!

Ditto...
I used Profile amps in my beater cars all the time.
For the $$ you cant beat them (500w for like $100...lol)...
Once my amp even fried (ie: smoked up my whole car)...
Shut the car off checked it out, didnt notice anything wrong...
Turned it back on and it sounded even better...lol...
Lasted me another couple years after that incident too!

[Jpax]

Originally posted by BarracksSi
Usually extra features, like removable heatsinks or endcaps, crossover, subsonic filter, remote knob, speaker-level inputs or RCA-only, preamp outputs, extra modules, etc. There are some audio features that will, or will not, be necessary depending on how much control the head unit has (crossovers, filters, etc).



Don't forget power supply the power supply of an amp will make or brake your system, the ability to maintain a consistent output will help with clearity.

Some amps are made with the intention of the end user using aftermarket , batterys, caps , and alt's. Zapco for instance, is a good amp to make things go boom, a friend of mine has (3) 10"subs in the back of his prelude and this single zapco pumping out enuf bass to hear from a couple of blocks away, it hits so hard it will make you sick.


It is your choice to make a decision on what you would like to achive with your system clearity?, boom masstar? or overall quality sound. every amp has it s own sound, the way it amplifies the signal and sends it to your speakers will very from manufacture to manufacture, The only way to make a sound decision is to go listen :)

[Bo_Vien]

I've heard the JL audio amps at a local shop, and they do sound great, but I'm wondering if less expensive amps sound almost as good. I guess I'll have to check different shops to listen to various setups.

I have another question now. You ask what type of sound am I trying to achieve - clarity or loudness? (That's SQ vs SPL, right?) Well, I was wondering, just based on looking at paper specs of different amps (first, are they reliable?), what are things to look for if I were to go for more clarity or more boom? Does that make sense?

For example, here's the JL Audio 300/4. All I know is that I'm getting 75W RMS x 4 or 150W RMS bridged x 2. But what do the other things tell me as far as this amp is very good (or bad)? I'm sorry for the onslaught of questions, but I'm learning a lot from various forums about car audio. I appreciate you guys taking the time to respond to my questions. :)

75 W RMS x 4 @ 1.5 ohm-4 ohm (11V-14.5V)
150 W RMS x 2 @ 3 ohm-8 ohm (11V-14.5V)
THD at Rated Power: <0.03% @ 4 ohm
S/N Ratio*: >108.5 dB
Frequency Response: 5 Hz-30 KHz (+0, -1dB)
Damping Factor: >200 @ 4 ohm per ch./50 Hz

[bsams]

look also at the THD or total harmonic distortion,most amp manufacturers rate at a 4 ohm load, when you decrease the resistance you also drive the THD way up! very bad especially if you want clear bass. I'm an insaller at best
buy and those fubr subs are very good for the price they hit very hard and pretty clean, and you also do not need to feed them the 700rms they call for because of the high sensitivity rating.( how well the speaker turns power into sound) I would recomend just one 12" Fubr in a 1.2 cubic ft. sealed box and a sony mono subamp also bestbuy. that amp is the best bang for the buck, it says on the specs that it makes 400 watts @ 2ohms. but we tested it our selves and the thing really makes 588WATTS @2ohms 12.4v!!!:p

[Si02]

Damn I didn't get it because they had a setup in the store and I didn't care for it. Sales over......:'( Now they got a Rockford Fosgate sale amp and 2 12"'s in box for 275.00.

[bsams]

yeah , dont ever judge a sub in an open air environment like the way we display subs at best buy a sub will sound totally different in the car due to "cabin gain". or in car response..:(

[bsams]

if you dont want to spend alot to get some good equipment then check out etronics.com or ikesound.com thats where I get my stuff and have had nothing but good experience with both.. check out the jbl bp1200.1 and the kicker soloL7s for 199.00:D :D

[Bo_Vien]

Does Best Buy install stuff that you bring instead of buying from them? I've heard that a lot of audio shops don't like doing that.

[bsams]

it depends on the shop but well install just about everthing, we just only warranty our parts. the only advantage is when you see free same day install. means we wave the normal 48$ labor fee and you only have to buy the parts needed for your application. Other than that it is the same price to install if you buy from us or bring in your own stuff. also with amp installs we will only lifetime warranty if you buy a new amp kit they will not normally use preinstalled power wire, rcas, etc. ;)



tell me what you want installed I'll let you know what they "should" charge. :D

[Bo_Vien]

I have an Alpine headunit, front component speakers, and a subwoofer + box right now. I just need an amplifier to power everything, and I need someone to install all of it. I don't have any wiring kits so I'll need to buy that from whoever is doing the install.

A local audio shop has quoted me about $940 for a JL Audio 300/4 amp + wiring kits and installation of everything that I mentioned above. The shop has a good reputation, but that's a lot of money. :eek: Does that sound about right? The amp itself is $499. Amp kit is around $140 (i think that's what he said). Everything else must be labor.

[bsams]

Do you have the kit and harness for the Si yet? also do you want speaker wire ran to the components?( recommended, being stock wire is only good for 50watts rms) 140$ for amp kit sounds about right if its a monster kit and a four channel kit. We would charge about 150 for the amp install , 100 for the components, and another hundred for the head unit. ( expensive I know). give or take 50. You should buy the amp you want and do some shopping. Acually that shop would be way lower than us as long as they know they definately have to cut the doors in order to fit the components. that would at least be two custom charges of 15.99. :confused:

[bsams]

too bad u dont live around here id do the hole thing parts and all for like 250:'( And it would be done right:angel: Be careful who you go with, they might try to pull a hack job on you .:eek: