New Ephatch.com Sponsor KW Suspensions - Special Coilover Offer!

[Glen@KW]

KW Suspensions North America is proud to announce that we have just joined the EPHATCH.COM team.

To officially introduce the new reference standard in Coilover suspension for your 2001 and up Hatch, Coupe or Sedan the staff at KW Suspensions North America would like to extend this special offer.

At KW NA we believe that the power is in the experience, and we believe that this offer will allow many of you to experience first hand Europe

[02SilverSiHB]

damn, if I hadn't spent my money on the skunk2 and koni setup I have, I would have bought this, only about 300 more, but no worries with modification.

[greenguy]

Ill take one of these to go with my suspension:p!
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/honda/Rikli_ms.jpg

[2k3vbpEP]

I just might have to bite on this deal. I was looking at getting the Tein Type Flex but I think it is more than I need and the price on these is great. Now hopefully they will still have the deal when I get the money saved up.

[mhx]

i will wait for neuspeed full coil overs.. for 799$ in 2 months

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by mhx
i will wait for neuspeed full coil overs.. for 799$ in 2 months

Just curious, but why neuspeed coilovers?

Are they like the other coilover systems they offer from billstein or Koni?

[chunky]

interesting.

that's the first time i've seen a dual spring setup that doesn't have adjustable spring pre-load. . ..

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by chunky
interesting.

that's the first time i've seen a dual spring setup that doesn't have adjustable spring pre-load. . ..

:confused:

I am not sure I follow you on this comment. Spring preload is generally defined as the ride height, and is adjusted on our kit by moving the perch up and down the threaded chassis.

I am guessing that the picture in my initial post is not clear enough to make out the threads on the chassis.

Here is a more detailed picture of a standard KW Inox coilover housing with the springs removed. (not a civic application, but the best picture to illustrate my point)

http://www.kw-gmbh.de/images/content/salzspruehnebeltest/KW_Salz-000_kw_inoxline.jpg

Hopefully you can clearly see the threaded housing. With the previous galvanized versions it was much easier to see the threads, the new Stainless steel housings are almost a chrome finish, that is harder to capture detail images if not photographed just right;)

[mrfixit687]

can you give me more information on the rebound adjustability, how many settings, and how does the softest setting compare to stock? ie. softest on coilover still stiffer than stock? if so how much more? and vice versa. thanks :)

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by mrfixit687
can you give me more information on the rebound adjustability, how many settings, and how does the softest setting compare to stock? ie. softest on coilover still stiffer than stock? if so how much more? and vice versa. thanks :)

Thanks for the question, it is actually one of my favorite to answer, so I hope your ready for this ;) !

The KW rebound settings are performed at the top of each shock using the provided setting wheel. The valve does not have a pre set amount of adjustments, rather it is like a volume knob that allows for approximately 2-2.5 full turns, and really allows you to fine tune your rebound.

As for the settings you can achieve as compared to stock, check out the following diagrams.

http://www.kwsuspensions.com/images/webgraphics/tuning_eng.gif

The red line shows a typical Factory shock curve, with the rebound portion of the graph on the top, and the bump on the bottom. KW

[mrfixit687]

thanks for the indepth information, excessive detail is always welcomed :D

[chunky]

Originally posted by Glen@KW


:confused:

I am not sure I follow you on this comment. Spring preload is generally defined as the ride height, and is adjusted on our kit by moving the perch up and down the threaded chassis.

I am guessing that the picture in my initial post is not clear enough to make out the threads on the chassis.

Here is a more detailed picture of a standard KW Inox coilover housing with the springs removed. (not a civic application, but the best picture to illustrate my point)

http://www.kw-gmbh.de/images/content/salzspruehnebeltest/KW_Salz-000_kw_inoxline.jpg

Hopefully you can clearly see the threaded housing. With the previous galvanized versions it was much easier to see the threads, the new Stainless steel housings are almost a chrome finish, that is harder to capture detail images if not photographed just right;)

Spring pre-load refers to the amount of tension placed on the spring when the suspension is at "rest." So adjustable spring pre-load means that you can adjust how much the spring is compressed when the suspension is in it's neutral state. You dial in more spring pre-load to get a stiffer spring rate, you take out pre-load to get softer rates.

spring pre-load as I understand it is separate from ride hieght. A lot of coilover designs increase spring pre-load as you decrease ride hieght. But IMO you should be able to adjust them separately. for example, the jic-magic flta2 series coilovers have separately adjustable hieght & spring perch. this allows you to adjust spring preload independently of ride hieght. They ARE a 2000$ set of coilovers, but you get what you pay for.

anyhow, spring preload most certainly does not equate to ride height.

just ask anyone that owns a somewhat new sportbike - they leave the showroom floor with adjustable spring pre-load which in no way affects ride hieght.

[02-sir]

Originally posted by chunky


Spring pre-load refers to the amount of tension placed on the spring when the suspension is at "rest." So adjustable spring pre-load means that you can adjust how much the spring is compressed when the suspension is in it's neutral state. You dial in more spring pre-load to get a stiffer spring rate, you take out pre-load to get softer rates.



Sorry chunky, I don't want to start an argument, but this is a common misconception. Nothing you can do with the setup you're talking about will change the spring rates or stiffness of the car in any way. All it allows you to do is adjust the spring so that it's always slightly compressed when the damper is fully extended so that it never unseats from the spring perch. You can then adjust the ride height independently with the adjustable mount. If you increase the spring preload further, you'll have to compensate with the adjustable mount to maintain the same ride height (no problem) The end result will be that the car will feel the same, you'll be using a slightly different portion of the damper stroke, and the full droop position of the wheel will be decreased, (which is the most significant of all the changes)

If you take two identical cars and fit one with the JIC style coilover and one with the KW style coilover (assuming same spring rates and ignoring any differences in damper performance), the only difference would be that the KW's wheel would droop down further, and the helper spring would prevent the main spring from unseating. To be honest, I don't know how this would affect the handling of the car. Under hard cornering, the JIC car might lift a wheel, while the KW car may have the wheel still touching the ground with very little weight. In either case, that wheel is doing nothing, so I'd image it doesn't affect the handling much.

The main difference comes into play if you are lowering the car so much, that you run out of damper travel when fully compressed. The JIC setup allows you to shift the damper travel range where you need it. As long as the KW coilover is properly designed, and you stay within the recommended lowering range, this shouldn't be a problem. (I have no affiliation with KW, so I have no idea if this is a problem)
Having said that, I really like the JIC setup too!



Glen, does the kit come with the upper bearing and mount?

[Glen@KW]

I have talked to my tech department, and was about to post, but you did a great job!

As for the upper bearing and mount question.

The KW comes with the upper spring pearch designed to fit in and utilize the factory mount/bearing.

The variant 1 through 3 coilover kits are designed as street applications, and use as many factory componants as possible to guarantee no squeaks or rattles. In our race kits, upper mounts are included for adjustment purposes, and to handle the higher forces created by high speeds, sticky tires, and all around abuse on the track.

Thanks again for that great explination!

[02-sir]

thanks Glen, you're giving us a great offer, and I'd hate to see people getting a bad impression of your product based on misconceptions (I'd rather find a real reason for people to get a bad impression! :D j/k)

personally I don't think using the stock steering bearing is a bad idea for a street setup, although some people may be turned off by it. A lot of people associate the stock steering bearing with clunking noises after a spring install, but I've found that it's more often due to mis-aligned perches or poorly fitting springs.

I think you have a nice product for a great price, thanks for the GB. (July 11 quickly approaching... counting pennies...)


Nick

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by 02-sir
thanks Glen, you're giving us a great offer, and I'd hate to see people getting a bad impression of your product based on misconceptions (I'd rather find a real reason for people to get a bad impression! :D j/k)

personally I don't think using the stock steering bearing is a bad idea for a street setup, although some people may be turned off by it. A lot of people associate the stock steering bearing with clunking noises after a spring install, but I've found that it's more often due to mis-aligned perches or poorly fitting springs.

I think you have a nice product for a great price, thanks for the GB. (July 11 quickly approaching... counting pennies...)


Nick

Thanks alot Nick,

I totally agree, and understand. Like my post says, the most valuable thing for a manufacturer is the loyal customers its product builds. That is the biggest reason for the offer!

As for the use of the factory bearing, I have been reading on many forums about the noises that have been blamed on the bearing, but in my experience you are totally correct. The majority of the problems seem to be with sleeve-over setups like GC or Skunk or.... They inherently move around, usually creating their own set of problems. With a properly engineered complete coilover setup, this does not happen unless there is an install issue.

The only time I have seen any problems like this is when there has been a factory part issue, that either a recall or upgrade that is reccomended by the manufacturer (Honda, VW etc..) but is present in all models. Even with the competition, such as B&G not having the bigger upper mount for the 2002+ cars, there was still no mention of any problems of any kind.

When a replacement upper bearing is used (usually sold as a "racing mount") that has been engineered for no movement or replaced the rubber with urethane, creaks and groans are not a concern for the manufacturer, it is just accepted that this is one of the things associated with these purpose engineered mounts.

The goals are only alighnment and control of the movement of the suspension (ie solid mount). Not really good for a street car.

Im sure many of you have upgraded to a urethane mount or insert kit, which stiffens the motors support for better launches, and power transfer etc, but the side effect is the increased vibration through the rest of the chassis that the rubber mounts used to absorb. Same thing, accptable tradeoffs. Judging by the posts I have read, most EP/EM owners will not accept the rattles or clunks in their brand new cars, and I wouldn't either.

So the factory mount makes sense for a daily driver, but for a dedicated race car, its a different story.

[HondaMan]

Nice deal! Thanks! I wish I had the $ to get it.

I love this pic (lots of black EPs...like mine) :):
http://www.kwsuspensions.com/honda/Portugal.jpg

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by HondaMan
Nice deal! Thanks! I wish I had the $ to get it.

I love this pic (lots of black EPs...like mine) :):


Thanks,

I am working on getting more pics of the series, when I do I will post them or a link!

[Glen@KW]

Hello, its Glen from KW,

7:00PM Pacific Standard time, Tuesday July 8, 2003

I have just received a call from our freight forwarder that there has been a delay in the shipping of the EP Coilover kits to the North American office.

Unfortunately, due to high volume, they have been bumped off of the scheduled flight, and will not arrive until this weekend.

My intent is to turn them around Monday afternoon. Our weekend freight consolidation travel on guaranteed space, where our midweek shipments are space dependant.

I apologize for any inconveniences this may cause, and I eagerly await your individual feedback on the performance of your systems.

[BobRoss]

I have a set ov KW V2's on my current VW GTI..... im real excited that i can get them for my new SI.

Loved em on the VW, sure i will love em just as much on the H.

[HondaMan]

I sure hope I can get this special offer at the end of the year when I should have $$$ to get it! :D

[RacerDre]

are you guys gonna have another special anytime soon?

[HondaMan]

Originally posted by RacerDre
are you guys gonna have another special anytime soon?

Good question! :D

[Glen@KW]

Just stay tuned, but if you guys can get 5 people together, I can work something out :D

[ALCT]

Glen:
I just want to lower my car 2 inches , I won't be adjusting the rebound at all, do you think I should go with V1 instead of V2? what would you say about V1's ride quality also how many miles would I get from a V1 set?
Thanks,
AL

[Glen@KW]

Originally posted by ALCT
Glen:
I just want to lower my car 2 inches , I won't be adjusting the rebound at all, do you think I should go with V1 instead of V2? what would you say about V1's ride quality also how many miles would I get from a V1 set?
Thanks,
AL

hey Al,

The V1's are a great solution for your application. they are pre set to get you the best handling while retaining ride comfort. The focus is about 60/40 in favor of handling. Unfortunately, the V1s are not yet available, but we hope to have them for September/October of this year.

As for longevity, we have an anticipated lifespan on all of our seals and internals at a minimum of 100,000 miles, and the limited lifetime warranty to the original purchaser.

In our product line, there is no difference in quality of each product, only a different amount of features/options that determine price!

Thanks

[Glen@KW]

Hey guys and girls,

I will be out of town for the next week or so, so I will not be able to answer your questions right away.

Those of you that have orders pending, most have been shipped as of today, and the remainder will be handled by my staff while I am gone.

For english install instructions, just send in an email to

info@kwsuspensions.com, and one of my staff will take care of you!

Thanks for all your support, and I look forward to your feedback when I return!