DIY: Hardwire your radar detector

[andy]

This install is fairly quick and takes maybe 15-30 mins, depending on your ability to strip
wires.

"toolsToUse" shows what tools I used during this install. The object on the far right is a
2-in-1 cigarette lighter/adapter. You should be able to pick this up at Wal*Mart or any
auto parts store for under $5. I just cut off one of the adapters and use that when
installing. It keeps you from splicing/cutting the wire for your radar detector and makes it
easier for you to remove your detector to put in another car/remove later on.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"lightRemove" shows how your remove the light cover in the interior dome light. Simply
pop it out with a small flathead screwdriver.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE3NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"screwRemove" shows two phillips screws that need to be removed to take out the interior
dome light housing. Be careful not to lose these as you take them out. The housing will
just come right out when you take these off.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE4NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"backOfLight2" shows everything still connected, but with the housing removed. You will
need to remove a piece of black electrical tape holding the wire protector and you will need
to push a small tab/button on the harness to completely remove the housing.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE0NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"backOfLight" shows the housing completely removed.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDEzNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"wireStrip" shows the two wires that need to be cut/stripped in order to power the detector.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDIwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Note that you will need to splice in the detector/adapter wires, as well as the remaining
piece of wire connected to the harness. Before you cut the wires, make sure you are leaving
yourself enough room to strip and splice the wire. I used wire nuts to make things a little
easier when re-splicing.
Important: Be careful when splicing the wires back together. It is recommended that you remove
the battery when doing this, but you will need the car powered in order to test your detector
before putting everything back in place. I blew a fuse (there is a 7.5A fuse for climate control
that can be used if you blow the interior light fuse ;) ) when doing this the first time.
The problem is that you will need to test your adaptor/detector wires. The easiest way for me
to do this was to use the alligator clamps to connect the dome light harness wires (that I had
just stripped) to the adaptor wires I had stripped. You will need to make sure you have the
black (positive) wire of the harness connected to the positive wire of your adapter/detector.

"connectorsFinished" shows the finished product.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE1NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

"connectorsSplitter" shows another view - simply
tuck this all in the area near the dome light after you run your detector wire through the headliner
(just pull the liner down with your finger and slide the detector wire through, going from the dome
light area to the windshield area).
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMTMyMDE2NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D

Then, place the housing back where it needs to be and screw
the two screws back in. Replace the cover and voila - you are done.

Note that the wires spliced into are powered all the time, even without the keys in the car. This
can be a problem if you forget to turn your detector off as you get out of the car. However, I was
willing to deal with this small issue as it allows me to use the cigarette lighter for other uses
(i.e. cell phone charger) and helps keep the interior looking clean, without wires running everywhere.

I'm not sure how long the b/w on WTDR will last, so if the pictures
come down, just email/pm me. I have a .zip file containing all
of the pics if someone wants to host that, as well.

EDIT: Here's the finished product:
http://www.digitalpose.com/mbr/501/21629/p/413447_1824458270793310785_vl.jpg

[pappaljf]

awesome how to, now all I need is a good radar dector....and a tint on my rear window so people don't ride my ass......

[hamproof]

it would look like this :)

Hardwired to a switched power supply under the dash taping into one of the fuse.

[Si4U2NV]

"wireStrip" shows the two wires that need to be cut/stripped in order to power the detector.


Why wouldnt you used T-Taps? i would never cut into wirez like that... very unkleen..

http://www.radioshack.com/images/ProductCatalog/ProductImage/64/64-3052.jpg
Kleen.

-Mike:rolleyes:

[siver-SI]

Like the idea. Just wondering over all with radar detectors do they do any good and are the legal to have in some states. I thought I heard something in IL or WI that you can not have them running in the car. I have also heard with radar detectors that the radars improve at such a fast pace that you can not keep up with them. If you are the only one on the road and they are not using the radar on other car by the time your detector spots the cop you are all ready clocked. Just wondering if I should spend the money on one.

[civicpimp]

I just wired mine into my stereo. The radar detector sits at the top left coner and I have power and ground run to my head unit. No wires showing...A lot cleaner.

[andy]

Originally posted by civicpimp
I just wired mine into my stereo. The radar detector sits at the top left coner and I have power and ground run to my head unit. No wires showing...A lot cleaner.

There aren't any wires showing with this install, except for
the detector power wire running behind your mirror (about 5-6"
worth). I guess I should take a pic of the finished product...


Originally posted by siver-SI[
Just wondering over all with radar detectors do they do any good and are the legal to have in some states...

Whether they are any good or not is pretty subjective - I've
gotten a ticket with a radar detector (cop was sitting in a
median, behind some trees, at the top of a hill which was on
the inside of a curve - not much I could do on that one ;) ) and
it has also saved me from a ticket several times.
The main advantage is night time driving - if a cop has his
radar on and is heading towards you/from behind you, you
wouldn't know it until it is too late w/out one.

Lasers or "instant on" radar guns leave you pretty helpless,
regardless of your detector. But if they are using these, they
are usually hitting people in front of you, thus giving you
an early warning, at the least. To summarize, they aren't going
to save your @$$ every time, but for the times they do, it's
worth the $150-400 these things cost.


Originally posted by Si4U2NV
Why wouldnt you used T-Taps? i would never cut into wirez
like that... very unkleen..


Good point - personally, I don't really "trust" those T-taps. The
times I've used them, they either don't hold a connection, or
just don't work well. This way, I know I've got a good connection
and 99% of people will never know how it's wired. Even when
you remove it, you'd never think to look there, unless you were
replacing the interior light bulb. It works for me...