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View Full Version : New Big Brake Kit to fit Factory 15s



DocofMind
07-22-2003, 11:02 AM
After numerous requests from many members of the board to build a version of our forged 4 piston big brake kit to fit 15" wheels, we have finally nailed down a solution.

Basically, the kit will use the same forged 4 piston caliper from Wilwood mated to a 11.1" Brembo rotor. Stainless lines, choice of performance pads, anodized brackets and all the needed hardware included.

Even with the larger rotor, this set up is still lighter than the OEM set up.

We could offer this set up for $600 ($650 if you want drilled or slotted rotors and CAD plating) Only thing we need is 5 people to get this price. If you guys are interested or have any questions or concerns, feel free to post here or contact me at the shop. Thanks

Sherwin

TrippZ
07-22-2003, 11:07 AM
kit includes EVERYTHING?

andy
07-22-2003, 11:07 AM
Dumb question - is this front and rear, or just front?

Mugen_EP
07-22-2003, 11:41 AM
Just Spoke with Sherwin, really cool guy. This is for the front only. Anyone who upgrades the rear is really only for show, the front is where all the braking is done.

I'm interested if we get enough people in.

BarracksSi
07-22-2003, 12:15 PM
*banging on my home budget spreadsheet* grrrr.... where's that extra $$$?....

Silver Bullet
07-22-2003, 12:20 PM
How about some pics!

AkronSi
07-22-2003, 12:35 PM
What is the CAD plating?

BSEVEER
07-22-2003, 12:53 PM
Cad plating, Cadmium, is just a plating used to prevent corosion.

AkronSi
07-22-2003, 02:22 PM
Thanks BSEVEER.

chakra71
07-22-2003, 07:18 PM
i'm all over it.

but it will be a couple of months before i can afford it.

chunky
07-22-2003, 08:31 PM
Originally posted by DocofMind
After numerous requests from many members of the board to build a version of our forged 4 piston big brake kit to fit 15" wheels, we have finally nailed down a solution.

Basically, the kit will use the same forged 4 piston caliper from Wilwood mated to a 11.1" Brembo rotor. Stainless lines, choice of performance pads, anodized brackets and all the needed hardware included.

Even with the larger rotor, this set up is still lighter than the OEM set up.

We could offer this set up for $600 ($650 if you want drilled or slotted rotors and CAD plating) Only thing we need is 5 people to get this price. If you guys are interested or have any questions or concerns, feel free to post here or contact me at the shop. Thanks

Sherwin

how soon do I have to let you know? I have a preference for the porterfield r4-s pads.

and any chance of substituting cryotreating for cad plating?

IceD out N CALI
07-22-2003, 09:59 PM
when will this be going on? I would be interested if it wont be done right away (finances)

DocofMind
07-22-2003, 11:22 PM
I ll post some pics for you guys tomorrow so you can get a better idea.

Chunky, I can substitute the cryo for the cad plating for a few bux extra, no problem at all. Unfortunately though, I really dont do much work with Porterfield so I really dont have access to their pads. I did check price on them though for this caliper and I believe it came in under $60. Thats the beauty of this caliper, everyone makes pads for it and they are the cheapest ones available. Also, swapping pads out is extremely simple because of the cotter pin design.

I do stock over 12 different friction materials so I m sure we can find something to suit your needs.

I have gotten a couple emails from some others that are also interested so i am going to go ahead and get the ball rolling. Finished product should be available within the next few weeks. For those that dont have the funding now, dont worry, price will NOT go up much after the intial buy in is over.

SiMPLE_SiMON
07-22-2003, 11:58 PM
1. What is the price for the rotors that fit under 16" wheels?

2. Upgrading only the fronts COULD leave the brake balance upset. Upgrading just the fronts actually makes some cars worse since the rears lock up too easily and you lose the ability to brake deep into a corner.

I'm definetely in for either the 15" or 16" kit, depending on the price. I'd surely rather spend a few dollars more for two-piece rotors with aluminum hats (even more weight savings).

If a kit became available with two-piece rotors with aluminum hats for the front and the rear with pads and stainless lines for under $1000, I'd order it tomorrow. Literally.

chakra71
07-23-2003, 03:26 AM
Originally posted by SiMPLE_SiMON

2. Upgrading only the fronts COULD leave the brake balance upset. Upgrading just the fronts actually makes some cars worse since the rears lock up too easily and you lose the ability to brake deep into a corner.


I agree... on some cars it might create a worse than stock braking situation. But our cars have EBD, Electronic, Braking, Distribution. I believe that the system is adaptive for different driving situations because i've pushed my car to and beyond the limits and felt the system try to do exactly what it was supposed to (EBD, and ABS work well together). EBD should compensate for the larger rotors and better grip on the fronts by allowing the fronts to do more and if the rears lock up ABS would unlock them.

Some of you braking guys let me know if I'm on the right track here... It just seems to me like the system would compensate.

02SilverSiHB
07-23-2003, 05:04 AM
I'm in

ssvr6
07-23-2003, 05:07 AM
Damn Mike! You're going modding crazy! :)


Steve

02SilverSiHB
07-23-2003, 07:11 AM
Originally posted by ssvr6
Damn Mike! You're going modding crazy! :)


Steve
:) I know, I should concentrate on more power, but these brakes suck at autox :(

chunky
07-23-2003, 08:18 AM
Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB

:) I know, I should concentrate on more power, but these brakes suck at autox :(

they're not too bad for auto-x, but in a road race situation, you can cook 'em real quick, even with an upgraded pad & brake fluid.

the extra rotor size & forged caliper will help radiate heat a lot better. :)

BlasTech
07-23-2003, 08:29 AM
Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB

:) I know, I should concentrate on more power, but these brakes suck at autox :(

After a while, you'll stop using the brakes so much/hard. Auto-x puts way less stress on my car/tires/brakes now than when I started out, because I learned that smoother is faster.

02SilverSiHB
07-23-2003, 10:07 AM
Originally posted by BlasTech


After a while, you'll stop using the brakes so much/hard. Auto-x puts way less stress on my car/tires/brakes now than when I started out, because I learned that smoother is faster.
hhhmmm, maybe you're right. I was much smoother this last time than I was on the 13th. I didn't hit any cones or lose control, except that one DF I got from not paying attention near the end.

BlasTech
07-23-2003, 10:48 AM
Just a FYI at 10k miles, (with an estimated grand total 1.5 hrs of auto-x track-time) my OEM pads are reported at 70% by Honda...that's better than I expected. Of course with different setups and daily-driving situations, thats going to vary.

George Knighton
07-23-2003, 06:21 PM
Originally posted by Mugen_EP
Just Spoke with Sherwin, really cool guy. This is for the front only. Anyone who upgrades the rear is really only for show, the front is where all the braking is done.

Silliness.

The faster you get on the track, the more you realise you need the same proportionate braking force front/rear that the car had coming out of the factory.

I will wait for the front and rear upgrade.

What happens if you don't have the same braking force proportions front/rear that the car has coming out of the factory is that when you're in full threshold braking for Turn 1, when you start braking there is a very brief moment where you'll feel the back of the car is trying to move faster than the front of the car.

In consequence of this, any input on the steering wheel at all is exaggerated. You should go down to VIR or Summit Point and watch how squirrely some people get trying to brake from 140 to 40 in just a few feet. LOL...

I do know it's the conventional "wisdom" that you only need to upgrade the fronts. But I've seen enough and experienced enough that I'm not doing that. :)

DocofMind
07-23-2003, 07:48 PM
Okay, seems like this thread has gone a little off track so I would like to set a few things straight. I never said that a rear upgrade will not help. I DID say that because of our OEM rear caliper, a rear set up is a bitch to design. I say OUR beacuse my S2000 actually uses the almost exact same set up. The rear OEM caliper has the E brake as part of the caliper. Changing rear calipers would mean that you would need a seperate E brake caliper. This is something we are working on. This will be available later this year.

First of all, all of our designs come from mathematical ratios. We do not just randomly pick calipers with random piston diameters and pray for something to work right. We actually use the factory bias as a gauge and build around it. By using the correct piston diameter we are able to maintain the OEM pedal height and balance of the car without disrupting the front to rear bias. We do not over size the front brakes nor do we over pressure them. Many of those other kits available just put universal pieces together without taking any of this into consideration. I personally track my S and have tracked our EP as well so I know what works and what doesn't.

BTW, autox is not very demanding on brakes. What you do want though is a brake pad with a low coefficient of friction so it dosnt need to be heated up to work well. Canyon carvin and road racing are a completely different story. I have had both my front and rear brakes at over 1000 degrees, temps you will never see in an auto X. Well, temps you "shouldnt" :p be seeing atleast. The factory set up is not designed to exceed 600 degrees. You can get by with upgraded pads and fluid, but what you start to see shortly after that is the premature failure of the rest of the components.

George Knighton
07-23-2003, 08:03 PM
What you just said is a far cry from the quote about rear brakes being for show.

I agree with what you said, and I'm glad you set the record straight. :)

BlasTech
07-23-2003, 08:15 PM
So, the weight savings are good, and better endurance will be a given, what should we expect in terms of stopping distance compared to stock?

chunky
07-23-2003, 08:47 PM
Originally posted by BlasTech
So, the weight savings are good, and better endurance will be a given, what should we expect in terms of stopping distance compared to stock?

absolute stopping distances are limited by the tires you have. the stock setup can stop just fine even with upgraded wheels/tires, BUT, try doing a few 100-0 stops and see how well the stock brakes hold up. the key is fade resistance. if you don't track our car, or spend time driving at high speeds, you probably wouldn't benefit much from an upgraded brake setup.

BarracksSi
07-23-2003, 08:52 PM
Originally posted by chunky
... if you don't track our car, or spend time driving at high speeds, you probably wouldn't benefit much from an upgraded brake setup.

Yeah, but won't I score with the chicks?




Sorry, had to throw that in there... ;)

BlasTech
07-23-2003, 09:00 PM
Originally posted by chunky


absolute stopping distances are limited by the tires you have. the stock setup can stop just fine even with upgraded wheels/tires.

Agreed, thanks for the reminder! :)

Mugen_EP
07-23-2003, 09:16 PM
Originally posted by George Knighton
What you just said is a far cry from the quote about rear brakes being for show.

I agree with what you said, and I'm glad you set the record straight. :)

I did not mean that is what Sherwin had told me so I apologize if I typed it incorrectly. I also did not mean that you do not need to upgrade anything in the rear but such a huge caliper and rotor is not needed as the front.

chunky
07-24-2003, 05:57 AM
since the PM mailbox is full, here's a few ?'s i have:

1: What is the construction of the rotor? Two piece? directionaly vaned?

2: Will stock wheels fit over this setup? Are aftermarket wheels required?

3: What brand of stainless steel lines are included?

4: What are the availible friction material options? Anything from carbotech?

5: Which caliper is used in this setup? the foged billet dynalite? the forged billet superlite?

thanks :D

DocofMind
07-24-2003, 08:44 AM
Originally posted by Mugen_EP


I did not mean that is what Sherwin had told me so I apologize if I typed it incorrectly. I also did not mean that you do not need to upgrade anything in the rear but such a huge caliper and rotor is not needed as the front.

NO worries buddy, I ain't mad at ya ;)

DocofMind
07-24-2003, 09:03 AM
Originally posted by chunky
since the PM mailbox is full, here's a few ?'s i have:

1: What is the construction of the rotor? Two piece? directionaly vaned?

2: Will stock wheels fit over this setup? Are aftermarket wheels required?

3: What brand of stainless steel lines are included?

4: What are the availible friction material options? Anything from carbotech?

5: Which caliper is used in this setup? the foged billet dynalite? the forged billet superlite?

thanks :D

Sorry, mailbox got full too fast :)

1: Rotor is an OEM Brembo rotor that is a single piece and is straight vaned.

2: This set up is designed to fit in a 15" wheel. The stock wheels are actually designed pretty well. The spokes do not hinder caliper clearance.

3: Stainless lines are DOT approved and are lined with Teflon.

4: Besides Wilwoods 9 different friction materials (which are all made by Raybestos), Hawk HPS and HP+ as well as anything by EBC is available.

5. Caliper used in this kit will be the forged dynalite. I could easily use the Superlite, but I think you will have clearance issues. Unless you are running a wheel with an offset below 40mm, they most likely will not fit.

If there is anything else you need to know or have concerns about let me know. I ll work on getting a pic ASAP.

Sherwin

DocofMind
07-24-2003, 09:06 AM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid71/p1d7d60883d69e56c9559d69a34d92dac/fb97ef76.jpg

SiMPLE_SiMON
07-24-2003, 09:16 AM
What's the brand of stainless lines? I ask because Goodrich is garbage and I wouldn't pay for those. Earls and Fischer are better and fairly available.

What's the weight difference between the forged Superlights and the forged Dynalights?

I'll be giving you a ring in about an hour to talk specifics of my setup. Thanks.

chunky
07-24-2003, 09:31 AM
Originally posted by DocofMind


Sorry, mailbox got full too fast :)

1: Rotor is an OEM Brembo rotor that is a single piece and is straight vaned.

2: This set up is designed to fit in a 15" wheel. The stock wheels are actually designed pretty well. The spokes do not hinder caliper clearance.

3: Stainless lines are DOT approved and are lined with Teflon.

4: Besides Wilwoods 9 different friction materials (which are all made by Raybestos), Hawk HPS and HP+ as well as anything by EBC is available.

5. Caliper used in this kit will be the forged dynalite. I could easily use the Superlite, but I think you will have clearance issues. Unless you are running a wheel with an offset below 40mm, they most likely will not fit.

If there is anything else you need to know or have concerns about let me know. I ll work on getting a pic ASAP.

Sherwin

thanks for the prompt response. :)

The picture shows cross drilled & slotted. Is it possible to get plain faced or just slotted?

So the dynalite calipers will work with the OEM wheels but the superlite won't? My oz wheels have a +37offset so they'd probably work with the superlite. Just out of curiosity, what is the price diff for the superlites? I could always get spacers for the OEM wheels :D

DocofMind
07-24-2003, 10:06 AM
Originally posted by SiMPLE_SiMON
What's the brand of stainless lines? I ask because Goodrich is garbage and I wouldn't pay for those. Earls and Fischer are better and fairly available.

What's the weight difference between the forged Superlights and the forged Dynalights?

I'll be giving you a ring in about an hour to talk specifics of my setup. Thanks.

Actually, Goodridge lines are pretty descent, you just have to know what to order. Believe it or not, they actually have a different hoses that you can choose from, most just dont know about this.

I actually source mine from a very, VERY small shop that mostly services local race teams. If indeed you are doubtful of what i use on my own car, I can give you the exact specs and part numbers that you will need to order the lines from Earls or whoever.

Weight difference between the two calipers is roughly 1.8 pounds. The Dynalite weighs 2.5 pounds while the Superlite comes in around 4.3.

DocofMind
07-24-2003, 10:11 AM
Originally posted by chunky


thanks for the prompt response. :)

The picture shows cross drilled & slotted. Is it possible to get plain faced or just slotted?

So the dynalite calipers will work with the OEM wheels but the superlite won't? My oz wheels have a +37offset so they'd probably work with the superlite. Just out of curiosity, what is the price diff for the superlites? I could always get spacers for the OEM wheels :D


Of course the rotor is available any which way you choose. I was simply showing you what IS available ;)

Price difference on the calipers is not much. Price difference on design though is another question. I would have to wait until i have everything mocked up to give you an exact answer. I would suspect somewhere in the neighborhood of $250 extra.

EKthenEPnow
07-27-2003, 07:57 AM
Will the factory compact spare work??????????????

EP33
07-27-2003, 04:03 PM
Will the factory compact spare work??????????????

Damn good question.

This setup seems ideal for those that have smaller wheels for fun & larger wheels for bling.

Another question. . .will these fit the Civic LX stock 14" wheels?

Sorry so many questions Doc:o

DocofMind
07-28-2003, 10:21 PM
Originally posted by EKthenEPnow
Will the factory compact spare work??????????????

Honestly, I dont know. What I do know though is that it doesnt matter Dont forget, your able to rotate all your tires. The Civic does not have a staggered set up so you could always switch all the wheels around. :eek: :p ;)

EP33, these will not fit 14" wheels. The diameter of the rotor is just too large.


NOW, for all you guys. Question for ya. Who in So Cali wants to test fit these for me???????

Let me know, should be ready in about a week. :cool:

redronin22
07-28-2003, 10:53 PM
do i get a discount =-) pm or aim me

HondaChevy
07-29-2003, 07:51 AM
DocofMind

You said there is something like a group buy....(all we need is 5 people to get that price ). When will this take place and what company is selling/ producing the kit? I am about to purchase a Function B2 set up but could put that on hold for better brakes.

EKthenEPnow
07-29-2003, 10:53 AM
Originally posted by DocofMind


Honestly, I dont know. What I do know though is that it doesnt matter Dont forget, your able to rotate all your tires. The Civic does not have a staggered set up so you could always switch all the wheels around. :eek: :p ;)



So heres the Scenario:

I buy your brakes,

I go for a vacation

I get a flat

I can't put my Compact Spare on (cause of brakes that May / or May Not" fit the compact spare)

I pay someone to Off you

YOU NOLONGER MAKE BRAKES THAT potentially fit the factory compact spare

Whats the deal, its not a crazy question

Infact it is a very valid and reasonable question

Once you figure it out, let me know and then I will let you know if I'm gonna buy em

Thanks

W

glw
07-29-2003, 10:59 AM
Originally posted by EKthenEPnow


So heres the Scenario:

I buy your brakes,

I go for a vacation

I get a flat

I can't put my Compact Spare on (cause of brakes that May / or May Not" fit the compact spare)

I pay someone to Off you

YOU NOLONGER MAKE BRAKES THAT potentially fit the factory compact spare

Whats the deal, its not a crazy question

Infact it is a very valid and reasonable question

Once you figure it out, let me know and then I will let you know if I'm gonna buy em

Thanks

W i think what Doc meant in his earlier post was to put the compact spare on the rear (standanrd brakes) and move the stock (or aftermarket) wheel that was on the rear to the front (new brakes)...

this procedure should work fine unless you have more than one flat... then one spare isn't gonna help much anyways :D

andy
07-29-2003, 11:00 AM
EKthenEPnow,


Originally posted by Mugen_EP
Just Spoke with Sherwin, really cool guy. This is for the front only...

Hence his statement about swapping wheels. If you get a flat
in the front, move a rear wheel up front. There is a possibility
you get two flat tires, but I don't know what 1 good spare will
do you at that point...heh.

HondaChevy
07-29-2003, 11:37 AM
Umm yeah lets "OFF" people because you bought a break system that does not allow the spare to be used...boo hoo! You as a consumer need to accept your actions when making after market purchases and stop being a little bitch when things don't work. Buyer beware. Or in the case of the seller being threatened to be OFFed (buy some hard guy who would have to pay someone to do it because he is too scared to personally handle his problems like a man and has to resort to murder) SELLER BEWARE!

BarracksSi
07-29-2003, 11:57 AM
This is getting silly... back to the topic of brakes, please.

(looking for the Marine boot camp drill instructor monkey... lol)

HondaChevy
07-29-2003, 12:18 PM
I agree but when someone makes the statement "I will pay someone to off you" that is just plain juvenile. Sorry for that, but my retort was semi warranted....and back to the topic--has anyone offered to do the test fitting for the break kit in mention?

ssvr6
07-29-2003, 12:34 PM
Well, "Wil2k2" has some issues communicating as an adult sometimes...


Sherwin, what's the number at the shop?


Steve

Mugen_EP
07-29-2003, 01:45 PM
Originally posted by ssvr6
Well, "Wil2k2" has some issues communicating as an adult sometimes...


Sherwin, what's the number at the shop?


Steve

www.brakezone.com is his web site.

phn # (818) 781 7777
e-mail info@brakezone.com

hth

DocofMind
07-29-2003, 07:14 PM
Settle down guys, I have no idea how this ended up being a hostile argument. I in no way was poking fun or putting anyonw down. My computer has been down so i have not been able to answer emails. I dont know what anyone said to you but pay no mind.

To answer your question if you still did not understand my comment, was that it doesnt matter if your front goes flat and you cant use your spare. Simply remove a rear wheel and put that in the front and use the spare for the rear.

Now, back to brakes. Who ever does donate a couple hours of their time and is interested in this set up will receive and added discount for their time. OF COURSE :) Plus, you get to meet me and see my car, which should be good enough anyway ;)

This kit will be put out by me (BrakeZone). I am currently finalizing a deal with the board and am becoming an official sponsor as well. Again, if there are any clarification or concerns, please call me at the shop or leave me an email.

chunky
07-29-2003, 08:05 PM
Originally posted by DocofMind
Settle down guys, I have no idea how this ended up being a hostile argument. I in no way was poking fun or putting anyonw down. My computer has been down so i have not been able to answer emails. I dont know what anyone said to you but pay no mind.

To answer your question if you still did not understand my comment, was that it doesnt matter if your front goes flat and you cant use your spare. Simply remove a rear wheel and put that in the front and use the spare for the rear.

Now, back to brakes. Who ever does donate a couple hours of their time and is interested in this set up will receive and added discount for their time. OF COURSE :) Plus, you get to meet me and see my car, which should be good enough anyway ;)

This kit will be put out by me (BrakeZone). I am currently finalizing a deal with the board and am becoming an official sponsor as well. Again, if there are any clarification or concerns, please call me at the shop or leave me an email.

if only I lived on the west coast. . . . :(

HondaMan
08-14-2003, 12:17 PM
Originally posted by chunky


if only I lived on the west coast. . . . :(

Ditto (I must have missed this thread when I was on biz in SoCal)! :(

You dang SoCal peeps have all the R&D type fun!!! :p

BTW, I'm very interested as well. :)

02SilverSiHB
08-14-2003, 06:03 PM
Originally posted by HondaMan


Ditto (I must have missed this thread when I was on biz in SoCal)! :(

You dang SoCal peeps have all the R&D type fun!!! :p

BTW, I'm very interested as well. :)
just so you know :) it will put you out of sts, if you care :)

HondaMan
08-14-2003, 06:24 PM
i c, thanks! ;)

ssvr6
08-20-2003, 10:10 AM
Bumping this.

Sherwin, any word on the availability of this kit and just out of curiosity, what size are stock, rear, rotors?


Steve

DocofMind
08-20-2003, 11:38 AM
Sorry for the delay guys. Some emergency work showed up and i had to oblige. Anytime a 900 horsepower Civic asks for help, how can you say no? I am getting back on this and I will have a more difinitive answer for you soon. There may be a couple of changes in the set up as i was running into a few clearance issues with the forged dynalite. Stay tuned. Here are a few pics of the civic though. In case any of you want a full drag kit :)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/pddcbb95585f480121aea369712cf6e5c/fb554673.jpg

DocofMind
08-20-2003, 11:49 AM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/p234b4cbbee249bbb04c0593f1f9494d6/fb554247.jpg

DocofMind
08-20-2003, 11:50 AM
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid75/pe71bee006b1101267901291955f6912c/fb554665.jpg

HondaMan
08-20-2003, 11:55 AM
WOW, that drag Civic looks like a monster! :eek:

ssvr6
08-20-2003, 12:18 PM
Nice! How usable is that on the street?


Steve

DocofMind
08-20-2003, 12:56 PM
Its actually totally usable for the street. Road racing and canyon carving on the other hand it will not hold up. The rotor, as you notice, is solid not vented. Its designed to be as light as possible. What this obviously does is gives up its thermal cappacity. More mass means it can hold and dissipate heat better. Drag racing doesnt require heat dissipation. Just whole heck of a lot of brake torque :)

That car ran a 9.xx last saturday

ssvr6
08-20-2003, 01:29 PM
What size are the rotors?


Steve

DocofMind
08-20-2003, 02:45 PM
Originally posted by ssvr6
What size are the rotors?


Steve

11.5"

chunky
08-20-2003, 08:15 PM
Originally posted by DocofMind
Its actually totally usable for the street. Road racing and canyon carving on the other hand it will not hold up. The rotor, as you notice, is solid not vented. Its designed to be as light as possible. What this obviously does is gives up its thermal cappacity. More mass means it can hold and dissipate heat better. Drag racing doesnt require heat dissipation. Just whole heck of a lot of brake torque :)

That car ran a 9.xx last saturday

so why cross drilled? wouldn't a solid rotor offer more surface area?

or was this in an effort to compromise brake diameter with light weight?

Driftin SI
11-04-2003, 02:26 PM
so what ever happened with this???

Mighty_Mouse
11-04-2003, 06:27 PM
So many people won't use Wilwoods because they aren't made for the street. No dust seals, require frequent rebuilds, etc. They are super cheap though.

There also weren't any two-piece rotors available, nor was there a rear brake option. Hopefully all of these shortcomings will be fixed soon.

dw735
11-04-2003, 08:06 PM
yeah what happened, hey doco, is that the revhard car?

Quicksilver
11-04-2003, 09:45 PM
Originally posted by dw735
yeah what happened, hey doco, is that the revhard car?

Yep. And that's the owner of Rev Hard, Miles Bautista, in the photos.

Quicksilver
11-04-2003, 10:09 PM
Originally posted by Mighty_Mouse
There also weren't any two-piece rotors available, nor was there a rear brake option.

Are you talking about the rear rotor on the Wilwood kit being 1-piece or the front? The fronts DO have separate hats and rotors. The rears, as far as I've seen, are one-piece design though. Wilwood's in the process of finishing the rear kit, last I'd heard. The big problem was the e-brake.

I completely agree with you about the dusting. My wheels get filthy real quick!

Mighty_Mouse
11-04-2003, 11:09 PM
Yes, the rears. Wilwood also hasn't done anything about fixing their calipers have they? Having to rebuild calipers a couple times a year isn't high on too many people's list of things they like to do. A more street-friendly caliper would be great.