Who's had their stock brake rotors turned?

[sonic imperial]

I'm supposed to get mine turned next week. I'm only at 18,500 miles so that seems a little early, but they are warped. If I get them turned now, won't they just warp even faster the next time?

[David K.]

I had my brakes done at around 38,000 miles. The rotors were turned. I don't know that they should warp more quickly this time around. Generally turning the rotors is used to give a flush surface for the new pads. How warped are your rotors?

[asolo]

Go buy new rotors and put them on yourself. They aren't very expensive and they are pretty easy to put on. That way you don't have to worry about warping them so fast if you turn your old rotors. Plus you might be able to get some slotted or drilled rotors

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by asolo
Go buy new rotors and put them on yourself. They aren't very expensive and they are pretty easy to put on. That way you don't have to worry about warping them so fast if you turn your old rotors. Plus you might be able to get some slotted or drilled rotors
this is so true! You end up saving at least 100 bucks as it is. You could buy some blank brembos and some new pads and do it yours self. Or, take off the rotors and take them to autozone to be turned, then buy some new pads. Way cheaper. Brake shops rip you a new ass for shit like this.

[sonic imperial]

Well, Honda agreed to turn them for free so that's why I opted for it. They are warped enough that it vibrates the steering wheel, pulsates the brake pedal and makes the car feel like it's chugging to a stop when you brake from about 40mph or over. I never wash my car when the brakes are hot, always after they've cooled for an hour or more and usually I only wash it in the mornings after it's sat all night. They actually warped on me when I had to brake kinda hard for a car in front of me a few weeks back. It was a nice sunny day, no rain or puddles, and I hit the brakes and just felt them warp within seconds. I didn't even brake hard enough to squeal the tires. That sucks IMO, I can't believe the stock rotors can't handle anything more than that.

[B18CXr]

Autozone


$21.99 each

[chunky]

pads & fluid.

stock rotors are fine. the stock brake fluid sucks, would boil off stopping from 80mph. Valvoline synthetic brake fluid does fine for 100+mph driving.

Stock pads also turn to mush, get new pads.

if it only vibrates above a certain speed, that's your signal that it's the pads & fluid that are inadequate.

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by chunky
pads & fluid.

stock rotors are fine. the stock brake fluid sucks, would boil off stopping from 80mph. Valvoline synthetic brake fluid does fine for 100+mph driving.

Stock pads also turn to mush, get new pads.

if it only vibrates above a certain speed, that's your signal that it's the pads & fluid that are inadequate.
thanks for the tip, that sounds like my brakes after a little bit. The brakes feel like mush after a few times of braking

[ssvr6]

What pads are people going with?


Steve

[IceD out N CALI]

Originally posted by chunky
pads & fluid.

stock rotors are fine. the stock brake fluid sucks, would boil off stopping from 80mph. Valvoline synthetic brake fluid does fine for 100+mph driving.

Stock pads also turn to mush, get new pads.

if it only vibrates above a certain speed, that's your signal that it's the pads & fluid that are inadequate.

what pads do you suggest?

[sonic imperial]

Yeah, on hot days it's really bad. I can still feel a slight warpage even at lower speeds.

[ludikris]

Turning the rotors will make them even more susceptible to warping in the future. Most Honda OEM rotors that I have dealt with are inadequate for anything more than standard daily driving. Brembo blanks should be able to be located for ~$30-40 and I'd recommend going that route rather than returning to OEM or having yours turned. Alternatively, I highly recommend using Powerslot rotors if you are looking for a slight step in performance. They run $90 for other applications, but the EP3 might be cheaper. I would avoid cross drilled rotors like the plague unless you wanna be a stoplight stunna. Unless you are getting the ventilated from the casting process (and not drilled) you will be getting rotors that have a horrible tendancy to crack at the stress risers around each hole that's drilled. Four of us who regular track our cars each bought rotors. Three of them bought cross drilled and I bought the Powerslots. They had to replace their rotors within two months. I've been using Powerslots since 2000.

For fluid, the recommendation of Valvoline Synthetic is right on. Autocross and street duty are handled just fine, but if you track your EP, I highly recommend going with an ATE Super Blue or Motul. I cooked my Valvoline fluid after 3 track sessions and ran the rest of the time with mushy (but not unsafe) brakes. ATE/Motul is expensive, but worth it if you track the car.

Everyone has opinons on pads. I've used stock Honda pads in the back with PBR/Axxis/Metal Masters in the front. For street/track and autocross they do just fine. For additional bite look into www.cobaltfriction.com as well as Carbotech and Hawk pads. They dust a bit more (and any non-OEM pad will), but you will get better braking performance from them.

[TripleJ02]

I work in the car parts industry and just from experience and stories i wouldnt recomend buying car parts from autozone. Cant find a better place to buy cheaper motor oil or a bottle of wax, but when it comes to actual car parts... you get what you pay for ;)

And im not sure about your 'zones' but the workers by me dont know the difference between a muffler and a gas cap. Sorry guys :o

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by TripleJ02
I work in the car parts industry and just from experience and stories i wouldnt recomend buying car parts from autozone. Cant find a better place to buy cheaper motor oil or a bottle of wax, but when it comes to actual car parts... you get what you pay for ;)

And im not sure about your 'zones' but the workers by me dont know the difference between a muffler and a gas cap. Sorry guys :o

Auto zone is a great place for parts if you are thinking of fixing up a car and getting rid of it. They have a lot of cheap parts and they are good for a little but can not take a lot of wear and tear. I find out NAPA is good for parts in quality. You get what you pay for.

[87gn]

If I get them turned now, won't they just warp even faster the next time?

actully if you torque your lug nuts, like there suposed to be in the first place AND you properly season your brake rotors when they

[IchBinEinSiR]

As I have said on other threads, because the budget for the car is small, I intend to replace things more or less as they wear out, or one major project per year. As for rotors and pads, when they need servicing, they will be replaced with performance rotors and pads. In the past I have found it far cheaper than the OEM parts and service costs. By all means do it yourself, one wheel at a time (starting with the brakes with the longest brake line, for proper bleeding) using the jack in the trunk, and just make sure you torque everything down properly. Brakes are really easy to do, but for some reason can really cost alot at garages or dealers, just make sure everything is done right as these are what keep you out of trouble.

Oh, yeah, if the rotors are warped, I think it is too much work taking the rotors off, going to get them machined, and installing them again, when you can just swap out better rotors... easier with more piece of mind.

[civic hatch boi]

pads. for example, axxis ultimates dust a lot.. does that mean the pad is wearing out fast? how lond would an aftermarket pad last compared to oem pad.

[sonic imperial]

*UPDATE*
I spoke with the service manager yesterday when I phoned in my 20k mile service interval and he said he would replace my rotors for free whenever I want to and will put it in writing. So that's cool, and maybe something you guys with warped rotors might can discuss with your service manager.

[BlackNRedSi]

how do you know if your breaks are warped? will i know by driving? or do i physically look @ them...if its the route of looking @ them, what do i look for...?

thanks

[Speck]

You will know when you hit the brakes doing 60+ and you feel like crapping in your pants. That's what happened to me. Car would not stop for shit.

I took my car over to NTB, cause I know the peeps there personally, and they charged me $50 (normal price) to resurface my rotors (AKA: Turning). They do run a finishing run on them and I have not had a single problem since.

I wonder if people who get the rotors resurfaced are not follow SOP for driving afterwards.... DON'T slam the brakes, be very very easy on them for about 50 miles or so.

Have been driving for 7 months now and has been great :)

-=speck=-

[NemesisITR]

At 8000 miles my front rotors and pads went to shit!! Two track events plus a cross country trip (DFW to Miami and back). Replaced with Powerslot rotors and Hawk brakes pads. Switched to Castrol Synthetic brake fluid.

Brake fluid boiled on next track event. I am now running Super Blue brake fluid.

Havent tested on the track yet.....wont be back on the track until sometime in October.

I have noticed since I switched to Super Blue my clutch pedal isnt making any noises.

[siver-SI]

Sounds like you needed an upgrade to DOT4 brake fluid for the racing. Come to think of it that is not a bad idea to upgrade too before I auto-X. I want to do a pad and rotor upgrade now before I go to the track because from reading are OEM ones are not made to take all that wear and tear.

[NemesisITR]

Super Blue is Dot 4

[siver-SI]

I thought it was.

[blueiedgod]

I have been thinking about upgrading my pads and rotors with EBC slotted, not drilled, rotors and Green stuff pads. I am still going to try and have honda pay for it, since they are going to replace my rotors with stockies under warranty (they warped). Eventually I would like to mount winter tires on the stock rims (Blizzaks) and get 16 inch rims for summer with Yokohama Avid T4's.

Any input will be appreciated.

[IchBinEinSiR]

Why would you put "T" rated tires on your car??

[31102si]

if your brakes are getting mushy then you probably need to get some stainless steal brake lines, that should help with the soft feeling when your brakes heat up. changing the fluid should help also.

[Ocelaris]

Where would you get the braided steel brake lines? Teflon -3 is it? I'm trying to upgrade the whole brake system slowly, for $$ reasons, if I got steelies on this brake/caliper/pad/housing combo, and eventually wanted to move upto larger rotors, could I still use those same lines, or would I have to buy new different threaded lines? Like do Brand name X (Wilwood 4 piston calipers or whatever) Calipers fit stock threading and length?

And how much appox are a set of steelies? I saw a no name (maybe?) set on ebay for like 80$ Is that about what they cost? I found one site online where the guy sells the teflon coated steel line, and every adapter you could think of, so you could make your own cables... or maybe that guy made them for you... Not that I necessarily have the tools, or trust myself to crimp down a brake line, but...

And what is the brand name for "Super Blue " ? I heard someone rotated using blue and gold (?) was it? so they could see which one was being put in and which was going out... (same formula apparently, different color) Can you get this stuff at some local place, i.e. auto:zone/club/park/shop etc... At least they can't mess dry goods up, or can they? I heard they kept the brake fluids under a vaccuum in the factory where they make it, is shelf life an issue? like if I manage to find the stuff around me at some noname shop, and the guy pulls out a bottle of Superblue with an inch of dust on it, is that kosher joe? Or a no big candooey?

just venting some accumulated questions, thanks

[MrCivic03]

hey OC yea it is ATE super blue it comes in gold and blue so u kno when u have new fluid in. it is same thing diff color. not sure where to buy, prob get off internet. or just check local shops the shit is spensive tho so not sure if u need dot 4 yet...

[oldschoolimport]

get DOT approved ss brake lines. you don't want to save $40 and have a fitting come off and cause a wreck. hose shops can make brake lines, but they need to be approved for street use (DOT) because there is always a lawyer waiting to accuse you of using cheap equipment to cause his client permanent damage.
Don't cheap out on brakes. If the motor fails, you pull over. If your brakes fail, you crash.

[blueiedgod]

I just had the dealership machine my rotors on the car. At 7000 miles they should have not warped. I asked the service writer if I would void my warranty if I upgraded to Powerslot rotor and EBC Green stuff pads combo. He said that they would not have a problem with it, but if calipers siezed and the regional supervising tech had to come out and approve the warranty repair that he would most definately deny warranty coverage.
By the way the machinning was under warranty.

[IchBinEinSiR]

Perhaps someone could explain to me how different rotors and pads can void the warranty on the calipers? Lack of maintenance, sure, but if the piston or o rings go of their own volition, then Honda should cover under warranty.

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by IchBinEinSiR
Perhaps someone could explain to me how different rotors and pads can void the warranty on the calipers? Lack of maintenance, sure, but if the piston or o rings go of their own volition, then Honda should cover under warranty.

I am wondering the same thing. As long as the pads are the correct thickness and the same with the rotor I can not see how they void the warrenty.

[blueiedgod]

The service writer said that if we use non honda pads/rotors and calipers seize, or the hubs disintegrate then Honda regional would claim that non honda components were not transferring heat properly and caused failure.

[oldschoolimport]

thats bullshit, they cant deny coverage because you used replacement parts that meet or exceed oem standards and are dot approved. that would be a lawsuit.

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by blueiedgod
The service writer said that if we use non honda pads/rotors and calipers seize, or the hubs disintegrate then Honda regional would claim that non honda components were not transferring heat properly and caused failure.

That is a lot of BS there. If they are better then OEM and are DOT approved then they can not say a word.