bottoming out I think

[boston's ep3]

can any one help me. I installed the goldine springs and everything went right. As you can see I live in boston ma, and when I hit bumps It sounds like some one hit my car with a sledge hammer. I didn't cut the bumb stops when installing. the ride is good when on smooth surface and cornering is a little bit better. I know the goldlines have a soft rating but is it normal to be bottoming out when hitting bumps. two inches is a significant drop. Sorry so long and thank you for you time.

Phil

[team ERA 5]

i think its normal...i have the neuspeed race and it hurts and ther like 2.25 something like that or 2.5 i dont even kno...but yea i think goldlines bottom out too...it just sucks when ur jamming to your beats then all of a sudden u hit a lil pothole then ur cd player skips haha...its all good though....just save up for some shocks....all in all iTS normal

[EP33]

My EP had the SAME damn problem, hit a medium sized to large bump/dip and BOOM, that shi* pissed me off so bad I kept trying stuff until I (IMO) got it better. After this mod, my car DOES NOT crash onto the bumpstops in the front. If you do this, your car will truely ride "normal":)

[EP33]

These pieces are cut from my rear bumpstops. The remaining portion of the rear bumpstops have been re-installed on the rear struts. The pieces you see here are what I trimmed off of the rear bumstops and installed on the front suspension.

[EP33]

This is what the lower front bumpstop looks like when it has been cut away. There are two sections like this sandwiched together, with the dustboot attached to the bottom of the lower bumpstop. You will have to cut the strut boot away from the lower front bumpstop too. This will leave the strut boot with nothing to support it.

[EP33]

This is a picture of the upper factory front bumpstop. As you can see, it is identical to the lower bumpstop that has been removed. In addition, you can also see the dust boot is not where it should be (yet). The trimmed section of the factory bumpstop needs to have center hole widened so that the front strut shaft will go through the hole snug. If the hole has been opened up too much, the trimmed rear bumpstop will not be able to support the front strut boot from below, and you are dead in the water. Also, when trimming the rear bumpstop, cut it as even as possible from one side to the other. Sorry I don't have pics of the entire rear bumstop before and after.

[EP33]

In this pic, the trimmed section of the rear bumpstop has been modified by opening up the hole in the middle, and it has now been installed in place under the dust boot. Notice how the trimmed rear section of bumpstop fits snug around the front strut shaft. Also, notice that I have reduced the length of the front dust boot which will now be supported by the trimmed sectin of rear bumpstop. Again, the trimmed section of rear bumpstop cannot have the hole opened up too wide as it will not support the dust boot.

[EP33]

The trimmed section of rear bumpstop is now in it's place supporting the dust boot at the top of the strut shaft, and reducing the shock felt throughout when driving over bumps/dips. Again, if the hole on the trimmed section of rear bumpstop (now installed up front) is too big, the dust boot cannot be supported.

[chunky]

i've got the h&r springs with the 2.0" drop. Never really had any issues with it bottoming out. Hard bumps definitley transmit to the seat of the pants more, but haven't bottomed out.

[EP33]

Your sidewalls are probably helping with this phenom. See, I am running 40 series on 18s.

Boston, what series tires are you running?

BTW, when I put on the stock civic LX wheels and tires, my car rides like a Crown Victoria:D

[chunky]

Originally posted by EP33
Your sidewalls are probably helping with this phenom. See, I am running 40 series on 18s.
. . .

well, if the harshness is b/c of the tires, what good does cutting the bumpstops do?

i'm running 225/50/15, which is a sidewall that is about 4.5mm shorter than stock.

but yeah, more sidewall = better ride.

[EP33]

Cutting the bumpstops allows the suspension to travel further. In the front, the factory bumpstop setup on lowered EP=NO. With factory springs they're ok. There isn't much of a progressive transition from when the bumpstops 1st touch to full compression(aka bottom). Those two rubber doughnuts are silimar to what you'd find at the bottom of some elevator shafts. In other words, should you find yourself flying toward the ground, this is better than nothing. The way factory springs are wound (truely progressive & higher), you'd rarely hit the factory bumstops at any type of a compression speed. Check the pic dude.
Run max PSI in those meats of yours for a day (provided it ain't too hot outside), and you'll better understand what us low pro fellas is feelin.

[EP33]

oh yeah, the factory rears are progressive like the front too

BTW Chunky how are the Yokos holding up??? I am thinking about getting some next::D

[boston's ep3]

I have 215/35/18 so I could see the side wall being the issue on why I am riding so harsh. But after reading I was getting confused, trim the bump stops or keep them how the factory left. oh and if i should trim them is there a trick to doing it with out taking the whole suspension out again. I know I am being lazy but I really don't want to take it all out. Thank your for your reply

[Jodster]

I've got Nuespeed race spring and I have the same problem with the ride. I'm also confused about your instructions, are you suppose to cut the back bump stops and put the cut part up front? :confused: I would like to give this a try, but I'm having trouble following your directions.

And another thing I was thinking about, I want my stock struts to last me for a little while till I get the money for some afetmarket ones. And you are saying to cut the bump stops so that the strut was more room to travel down and not hit the bumpstops and cause the harsh ride, correct? If so, than would this cause the stock struts to wear out faster due to then compressing more?

[chunky]

Originally posted by EP33
Cutting the bumpstops allows the suspension to travel further. In the front, the factory bumpstop setup on lowered EP=NO. With factory springs they're ok. There isn't much of a progressive transition from when the bumpstops 1st touch to full compression(aka bottom). Those two rubber doughnuts are silimar to what you'd find at the bottom of some elevator shafts. In other words, should you find yourself flying toward the ground, this is better than nothing. The way factory springs are wound (truely progressive & higher), you'd rarely hit the factory bumstops at any type of a compression speed. Check the pic dude.
Run max PSI in those meats of yours for a day (provided it ain't too hot outside), and you'll better understand what us low pro fellas is feelin.

Well, first thing I'll point out is that the narrow coils at the top of the stock spring are dead coils. When the car's weight is fully on the suspension, those coils are touching. The lower coils are the active coils. But you are correct when you say that the factory springs are progressive. The factory shocks also have a self adjusting feature - HPV (honda progressive valving).

But in all honestly, my suspension rarely hits the bumpstops. the H&R springs were designed to work with the factory bumpstops.

Also, I run 40psi in my tires all around. :) I like to drive fast, so I have to keep the pressures up. I'm sure it's still nothing like running 18's. But even still, I can tell when i'm bottoming out and it rarely happens.

I really like the yokohama avs es100's. I've gotten pretty good wear out of them. I haven't auto-x'd them except once, and they did pretty well. For a reasonably priced tire, they are the cream of the crop right now. only 80 bucks for 225/50/15. When these run out though, I'd like to get some max grip tires for use at the auto-x & mountain runs only and throw my stock wheels/tires on for the commute. :D

[EP33]

Check previous posts for improved instructions in english :o They were kinda all over the map.


I'm also confused about your instructions, are you suppose to cut the back bump stops and put the cut part up front?

Yes put the cut part up front.


And another thing I was thinking about, I want my stock struts to last me for a little while till I get the money for some afetmarket ones. And you are saying to cut the bump stops so that the strut was more room to travel down and not hit the bumpstops and cause the harsh ride, correct? If so, than would this cause the stock struts to wear out faster due to then compressing more?

I am not 100% sure on that, the added travel is less that 1/4" so IMHO I don't think you'll be causing any additional wear than with your current setup.


the H&R springs were designed to work with the factory bumpstops.

Yes they were. The only thing I wonder about is which car they were designed for? RSX? Civic LX/EX? Si? That's another chapter, nevertheless, good thing you don't have the same problem.

:o