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View Full Version : WHich SYSTEM IS BETTER??



02CivicSI-VTEC
09-11-2002, 05:34 PM
which brand do you guys think is the best, between these two JL audio or Rockford fostgate subs and amps??

2k2civicSi
09-11-2002, 05:38 PM
JL all the way man get two jl w3s with a 500x1 jl amp sounds amazing

IceD out N CALI
09-11-2002, 06:17 PM
JL Audio

02blksi
09-11-2002, 07:32 PM
fosgate amps are the shit, always under rated! DEF, more boom for your buck IMO. Paird with a pair of JL's and that combo is hard to beat. --joe

02CivicSI-VTEC
09-11-2002, 09:26 PM
then which JL subs "W" are better W0 , W3, W6??

2k2civicSi
09-11-2002, 09:34 PM
the w7 is the best also 700bucks a pop

''fosgate amps are the shit, always under rated! DEF, more boom for your buck IMO. Paird with a pair of JL's and that combo is hard to beat. --joe''
i think rockford WAS good before bestbuy started carrying it they have made there shit cheep now the old stuff is great but the new stuff isnt all that
i bought a 800x2 fosgate and it was trash it fryed 2 times then i got a 500x1 JL

IceD out N CALI
09-12-2002, 03:18 PM
w3's most bang for your buck, w6's cant go wrong either
w7s loud but not worth the $$

Ritteri
09-17-2002, 07:24 PM
Being in the car audio industry for years( tweeter.com )and installing this stuff for waaaay to many years. I have to go with Soundstream EXACT components (the old school stuff) and Exact subwoofers. Diamond audio components and subs are excellent too. A 3rd good company is Illusion audio, and who can forget MB Quart??? The rest are all average to me at best. Rockford, JL is mass produced stuff you get at Best buy etc. Stuff can sound good if properly installed, but for the money there is so much better.

Amplifiers, old school Soundstream again(reference series, not the Rubicon garbage), PPI Art series, PCX series are really good too. Phoenix gold(The ZPA series if u can ever find one used), TItanium series is also really good. Xtant is also excellent.

For head units, Alpine, Kenwood Excelon, Eclispe are all good depending on your needs. Even the Nak decks are really good in the SQ dept. but their lack of features and arent cosmetically good looking. I always get a head unit with NO INTERNAL POWER. You want pre out only. keeps the signal path super clear and free of potential noise. Make sure the voltage is as least 4volts or higher. Most good decks feature this. But make sure the impedance is low otherwise its false advertising. Ive seen 5 volt preouts with rediculously high impedance where a low volt deck had more punch and less noise. Remember high volts and low impedance( less than 50 ohms) is the key. A fact 99.99 percent of the people fail to look at. Also always be sure to have your deck hooked up to a half or quarter farad cap directly. THis is the SINGLE BIGGEST improvement you can make to your sound after amps and speakers. Ever see your deck flicker with the bass?? Imagine how the DACs feel inside the head. Give your deck a farad cap it will thank you for it. I never wire my deck up to the wiring harness, cept for the turn on lead.

Also always use at least 1 full farad per 250 watts of TRUE RMS power. In fact dont waste money on caps at all. Just get an Alumapro C.A.P. or the Phoenix gold version. 20 farads for the price of 3-5 caps is a steal. You can find the Alumapro C.A.P. for around $400 for the 20 farad version. $200 for the 5 farad version. People should only buy a small cap for their deck like mentioned above.

Interconnects, its Monster Power or nothing. I wont even list another company here. XLN Micro Pros or M series are the only ones worth the cash.

For power distro, lots of great companies, PG, Monster, Tiff, whatever floats your boat. Make sure your amps get the proper sized wire. A good rule of thumb is to go up 1 size. Seen too many installs where kids used wire that was too small for the load. A big killer of amps.

And last, get an Iasca test disc. Check the phase of the speakers, imaging, etc. For $25 its a steal. You can improve the sound of your car dramatically just by tuning it properly. I heard one kids car where he had average stuff at best tuned to the disc and it sounded phenominal compared to other folks who had thousands and thousands spent. Tuning is the key!

If you also got the money, get an RTA. They another great tool too, but they run about $1500 OUCH!!!!

:D

Steve02Si
09-17-2002, 09:50 PM
JL is absolutely the best amp & sub manufacturer in the US today. Look at the numbers. The amps deliver their true rated power and then some at ANY voltage or impedance. This is especially useful in a new Honda, with it's relatively tiny battery and alternator. I've been to JL training and witnessed a demonstration of this technology. I've also got a JL 500/1 and a 300/2 in my Si and they don't cause the lights to dim even at idle. The W7s are far and away the best subwoofers ever created. period. If you don't know why, I'd suggest you visit a JL dealer and ask them to tell you, as it would take more time to explain than I've got! They've got several patented technologies that you won't find ANYWHERE else and they sound like nothing else. If you listen to one vs. any other sub out there and don't appreciate the difference, then it's not for you. Save your money and buy something cheaper. The new W6v2 is out and shares alot of the W7 technology at a much cheaper price. By the way, anyone out there want to sell their stock radio?

Ritteri
09-18-2002, 06:38 AM
JL is absolutely the best amp & sub manufacturer in the US today. Look at the numbers.

One of our largest sellers is JL. In fact Tweeter is the largest reseller of JL audio in the U.S. that doesnt make them "better". Ive been to JL training to and "witnessed" their technology. Sorry nothing more than sales hype. In fact Richard Clark and David Navone feel the same way as I do. Any speaker/sub can sound good if installed properly(ie proper encloser size, build etc). As for JL's new subs. Phoenix basically has a very similiar driver to the w6 and 7 and actually are a more musical sub. I dont even caryy PG but for folks looking for accuracy they are still a bit better, especially for the price. JL amps, average at best. You pay for the name. Sounds like they whored you into buying their products.


I've also got a JL 500/1 and a 300/2 in my Si and they don't cause the lights to dim even at idle.

As for delivering rated power at ANY voltage or impedance, many amps can do this. Its called PWM power supply, its nothing new, but regardless, telling us that you can 2 amps without headlights dimming is a crock. Do the math. even assuming your running at 4 ohms nominal your still drawing around 40-50 amps between the 2 amps at rated power. If you are at idle with no caps, playing at full volume, your headlights WILL dim. We have seen a single small powered 4 channel alpine amp dim the lights on a honda at idle with no problem. THis is without a cap. Putting a cap inline will alleviate most dimming problems though.


They've got several patented technologies that you won't find ANYWHERE else and they sound like nothing else. More sales propaganda, they all have pantented technologies these days..........


If you listen to one vs. any other sub out there and don't appreciate the difference, then it's not for you. Its not for alot of folks cept those looking to waste alot of power driving a sub. And yes its got a massive magnet assembly, stiff cast basket, huge surround, bullit proof cone etc. But at moderate volume level in a properly enclosed sub box doesnt sound any more impressive than any other sub. In fact for audiophiles, people will find that subs with a pulp cone material(yes I mean paper)will actually play much more accurately than alot of the new exotic material subs will still. I love bass as much as anyone else, but I like it real too. Ever listen to RATM's Evil Empire CD?? Lots of really cool bass lines by da man, many cool nuances that make it sound live if properly tuned. For the price of 1 singe W7 or W6 I can get still online a pair of quad of EXACT 10's that will still use a smaller box, have in total a larger motor structure(4 10's have 4 motor structures pushing alot more cone space, each needing to do less work)pushing less cone per square inch which equals greater accuracy, and at the same time giving a much higher SPL if thats what your looking for. For the price of a single w7 12 or 10 you can get 4 10's or 6 8's even that will give a higher spl and greater bass accuracy if properly tuned.

JL has a nice accomadation program if you in fact do sell their products, but I choose another route, even though I sell them all day everyday. I will say 1 thing though, JL is a higher quality product than Rockford garbage. Rockford sold out a few years back to supply to Best Buy, and when they did that, they also sold out their quality too.