ConeCrazy02
11-05-2003, 10:18 PM
SPEC
I adjusted my ride height to where the car doesn't feel like a SUV. Any higher height then it will not be good for braking or corning (center of gravity). Rear end jacked up more than stock, for the sake of traction. Camber adjusted to -1.5 front and rear. Max out my tie rod:( , with zero toe all around. EPS (electrical power steering) disconnected because it allows me to "steer with precision."
TEST DRIVE IMPRESSION
Set shock soft all around, first turn I pissed the dog. Thanks to the negative camber, the current setup has good turn in response with minimal tire chatter. If ever you guys want to make the EP handle, run as much camber as possible. Still need to dial in the shock and find the right tire pressure to run for the azenis, but I think this is already enough. I want to say this setup is amazing, but the coilover is limited by the suspension design. I am unsatisfied that I can't run more camber and ride height, but with the stiff springs I don't really notice any body movement. With my toes all corrected, braking is like noticeably improved, with no pitch or dive when hard braking. Cornering has like very very minimal bodyroll, only enough due to my helper springs (good for midcorner bumps because springs are too stiff).
RIDE QUALITY
~At fully soft I can feel every and I do mean every bumps and imperfections on the road, I am used to it because I ride a scooter with 850lb springs everyday.
~You know when you backed off the garage with a dip, well I did it and there were no play in the suspension.
~Thank God that the roads I drive everyday are fairly good, or else my head will be hitting the roof a lot more.
~I have yet to drive the car daily with anything higher than full soft, with the exception of Sunday autox with the out of spec alignment. At 8 click front and 16 click rear, I spun on the first turn. Although it was a good rotating, it will take some getting use to before I can drive the car loose.
COMPARISON
Let me say that it sucks to be adjusting the EP, a real pain in the ass because you don't know the limits. I don't know how Grassrootsmotorsports did their project si, no way they're running more than -1.5 camber (I have higher ride height and I am maxed out on tie rod adjustment, unless they have some toe in). FYI I went to this place with laser guided alignment, and I think GRM did their alignment themselves. If GRM is really running THAT spec, then I think they did it by lowering the rear too much. This causes way too many problems like traction, perhaps that is why they run 16s in the 1/4.
PRO
It will be the best mod you can do to a car, those stiff springs help you launch better, corner better and brake better. With a shorter tie rod, running approx H&R spring ride height (rear must be up a bit more) and -3.25f /-1.50r camber. The RS shocks are the best, damping the stiff springs with perfection. Helper springs helps a lot when it come to the stiff springs, whenever you hit a bump or dip with those stiff springs, those helper springs will keep the wheels planted. Camber plates are good, but adjusting the passenger side is blocked by the ac line.
CON
Only con is due to the tie rod
Anyone know If STS allows front lower control arm bushing (stock rubber to mugen hard rubber) replacement?
I adjusted my ride height to where the car doesn't feel like a SUV. Any higher height then it will not be good for braking or corning (center of gravity). Rear end jacked up more than stock, for the sake of traction. Camber adjusted to -1.5 front and rear. Max out my tie rod:( , with zero toe all around. EPS (electrical power steering) disconnected because it allows me to "steer with precision."
TEST DRIVE IMPRESSION
Set shock soft all around, first turn I pissed the dog. Thanks to the negative camber, the current setup has good turn in response with minimal tire chatter. If ever you guys want to make the EP handle, run as much camber as possible. Still need to dial in the shock and find the right tire pressure to run for the azenis, but I think this is already enough. I want to say this setup is amazing, but the coilover is limited by the suspension design. I am unsatisfied that I can't run more camber and ride height, but with the stiff springs I don't really notice any body movement. With my toes all corrected, braking is like noticeably improved, with no pitch or dive when hard braking. Cornering has like very very minimal bodyroll, only enough due to my helper springs (good for midcorner bumps because springs are too stiff).
RIDE QUALITY
~At fully soft I can feel every and I do mean every bumps and imperfections on the road, I am used to it because I ride a scooter with 850lb springs everyday.
~You know when you backed off the garage with a dip, well I did it and there were no play in the suspension.
~Thank God that the roads I drive everyday are fairly good, or else my head will be hitting the roof a lot more.
~I have yet to drive the car daily with anything higher than full soft, with the exception of Sunday autox with the out of spec alignment. At 8 click front and 16 click rear, I spun on the first turn. Although it was a good rotating, it will take some getting use to before I can drive the car loose.
COMPARISON
Let me say that it sucks to be adjusting the EP, a real pain in the ass because you don't know the limits. I don't know how Grassrootsmotorsports did their project si, no way they're running more than -1.5 camber (I have higher ride height and I am maxed out on tie rod adjustment, unless they have some toe in). FYI I went to this place with laser guided alignment, and I think GRM did their alignment themselves. If GRM is really running THAT spec, then I think they did it by lowering the rear too much. This causes way too many problems like traction, perhaps that is why they run 16s in the 1/4.
PRO
It will be the best mod you can do to a car, those stiff springs help you launch better, corner better and brake better. With a shorter tie rod, running approx H&R spring ride height (rear must be up a bit more) and -3.25f /-1.50r camber. The RS shocks are the best, damping the stiff springs with perfection. Helper springs helps a lot when it come to the stiff springs, whenever you hit a bump or dip with those stiff springs, those helper springs will keep the wheels planted. Camber plates are good, but adjusting the passenger side is blocked by the ac line.
CON
Only con is due to the tie rod
Anyone know If STS allows front lower control arm bushing (stock rubber to mugen hard rubber) replacement?