PDA

View Full Version : brake pad install



02civicSI
11-26-2003, 10:32 AM
are brake pads a DIY? my pads are starting to squeak (30000 miles) and wanted to save some money and learn a bit in the process. by the way i was thinking about these pads.

Hawk Brake Pads (http://www.ptuning.com/html/Item-Desc.cfm?PartNo=PTHB275F%2E620&MakeCode=honda&ModelCode=civic&ModelYear=1999%2D2002%20All%20w%2F%20Rear%20Drum&ModelDesc=Civic)

Driftin SI
11-26-2003, 10:45 AM
brake pads are easy, 30 min a wheel tops. The hawk pads are good, they have excellent grip but they are dusty, be aware of that. Once you take the wheel off, you'll see how the caliper comes off, its straight forward. You need a pair of channel locks or a c clamp to push the piston back in.

02civicSI
11-26-2003, 10:59 AM
thanx for the info. what would need in terms of other tools besides the c-clamps?

HondaMan
11-26-2003, 11:06 AM
I got some stock used brake pads 4 sale in excellent shape ($30 for all 4), if you are interested.

sniperSI
11-26-2003, 11:07 AM
Honda Civic (1999-2002 All w/ Rear Drum) - Hawk Performance HPS Ferro Carbon Front Brake Pad Set


Make sure you get the right ones.

r3p00c
11-26-2003, 11:15 AM
also, make sure you have a tool to spin the piston back into the rear caliper. you can use one of the tools that they sell at auto parts stores that go onto the end of a 3/8 drive ratchet like i did, or take the cheap way and try to use a pair of needle nose pliers. Be very careful not to break the seal around the piston if you decide to use the pliers.

bioevolve
11-26-2003, 12:00 PM
If you are doing more than 2 brakes (all 4's), be sure to remove some of the brake fuild from resivior. Cuz it will over flow and might pop a seal up top.

BlackNRedSi
11-26-2003, 12:15 PM
whats the going rate to have all 4 break pads taken off @ a shop? i never brought my car to a shop to have break pads done...but i might want to this year depending on what they charge minus the price of the pads

oldschoolimport
11-27-2003, 12:36 AM
Originally posted by 02civicSI
thanx for the info. what would need in terms of other tools besides the c-clamps? jack and lug wrench, obviously. I think the bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket is a 14mm. only remove the bottom bolt and swing the caliper up. you need something to press the piston in the caliper, caliper piston press, c-clamp, or big channellocks in a pinch. place an old pad over the hollow piston to make the pressure even. thats all. usually a 20-30 minute job. good luck.

chunky
11-27-2003, 04:28 PM
the rear pads are a pain, you have to remove the e-brake cable & the bracket that supports the cable. Then you have to remove the entire caliper.

but it's still an easy DIY affair.

mrfixit687
11-27-2003, 05:07 PM
get a bleeder wrench, when you're pushing the piston back in, open up the bleeder screw so you push all the old dirty fluid out of the system, instead of back up into the lines and your abs unit

Slip_Angle
01-21-2004, 08:18 PM
Two questions:

Shouldn't you get the pads for Honda Civic (1999-2002 All /w rear discs? Not rear drums?

What are the part number differences between the HPS and HP+ Pads?

Thanks

SiR_d1
01-21-2004, 08:38 PM
sorry but Im a total noob to tools, can you post a pic or link of what a c-clamp looks like?

raiyo
01-21-2004, 09:08 PM
Originally posted by CDN-SiR-02

What are the part number differences between the HPS and HP+ Pads?


If someone could help the guy out, that'll be nice, heheh, cuz I wanna know. For those who got them installed, remember or know the part number by chance?

mrfixit687
01-21-2004, 09:21 PM
heres pic of the c clamp, before i went to www.raceshopper.com and asked them for a price quote for hawk hps for our cars, and this is what they told me:

Thanks for the interest!

2003 Honda Civic Si
HB 275 (front) HPS $48/set
HB 145 (rear) HPS $51/set

so i dont know if thats the part number or not?

SiR_d1
01-21-2004, 09:22 PM
thank you

so this is a much needed tool for this kind of job?

Zero Three Si
01-21-2004, 10:01 PM
Originally posted by BlackNRedSi
whats the going rate to have all 4 break pads taken off @ a shop? i never brought my car to a shop to have break pads done...but i might want to this year depending on what they charge minus the price of the pads

You're talking about 300-400 dollars. That's for parts and labor. You can rest asure that you aren't going to be getting slotted rotors or top of the line pads with that either.


BIG TIP!!!

When you are using the C clamp...get a piece of wood and place it over the piston to ensure that the piston goes in evenly.

NEXT BIG TIP!!!

Pump your brakes after you change them and BEFORE you put it in gear. Your brake will go always the way to the floor and you wont be able to stop. If you are in your garage, you'll go through the wall like I did when I first changed my brakes when I was 15.

mrfixit687
01-22-2004, 01:07 AM
Originally posted by SiR_d1
thank you

so this is a much needed tool for this kind of job?

well its not like you wont be able to push back in the caliper piston with out it, but if you want to do it RIGHT then yes you'll need it

mrfixit687
01-22-2004, 01:09 AM
Originally posted by Zero Three Si
If you are in your garage, you'll go through the wall like I did when I first changed my brakes when I was 15.

ouch :eek:

bigcase
01-22-2004, 09:57 AM
i have changed pads before and its an easy, self fulfilling type of fix when you are done, BUT my question is, if i want to install some slotted rotors, say maybe some brembos, how hard is it to get the oem rotor off. do i have to try to unscrew those phillips head screws??? i mean, shit, i know those things are really on there and it would probably be a bitch to get em off. anybody done this mod themselves yet??

glw
01-22-2004, 11:37 AM
Originally posted by bigcase
i have changed pads before and its an easy, self fulfilling type of fix when you are done, BUT my question is, if i want to install some slotted rotors, say maybe some brembos, how hard is it to get the oem rotor off. do i have to try to unscrew those phillips head screws??? i mean, shit, i know those things are really on there and it would probably be a bitch to get em off. anybody done this mod themselves yet?? i believe you remove the phillips screws and put long bolts that push the rotor off. sorry, my manual is at home.

tony speed
01-22-2004, 12:01 PM
Originally posted by bigcase
i have changed pads before and its an easy, self fulfilling type of fix when you are done, BUT my question is, if i want to install some slotted rotors, say maybe some brembos, how hard is it to get the oem rotor off. do i have to try to unscrew those phillips head screws??? i mean, shit, i know those things are really on there and it would probably be a bitch to get em off. anybody done this mod themselves yet??


the screws are extremely hard to get off. you'll definitely need a impact driver to get them out with a phillips 3 head. if you do it by hand, you'll probably mess them up beyond repair.

bigcase
01-22-2004, 01:00 PM
well, that just gives me an excuse to use air tools now dont it. ill have to give that one a try, and thanks again.

BTW, have you done this change?

mrfixit687
01-22-2004, 02:18 PM
Originally posted by bigcase
well, that just gives me an excuse to use air tools now dont it. ill have to give that one a try, and thanks again.

BTW, have you done this change?

no an impact driver is a screw driver you hold with your hand and then pound on it with a hammer

bigcase
01-22-2004, 02:27 PM
see, i didnt know that. what the hell is that? ive never even seen one. can you rent those at home depot, for sake of sounding like an idiot. cough, *too late* cough.

tony speed
01-22-2004, 03:18 PM
Originally posted by bigcase
see, i didnt know that. what the hell is that? ive never even seen one. can you rent those at home depot, for sake of sounding like an idiot. cough, *too late* cough.

you can get a cheap one for about $10, a top-of-the-line one for about $23. Check any big car tool parts place. I tried to take of my rotor and probably stripped the head, and I watched my mechanic hammer the other side...I just got replacement screws today from honda. I just hope I can remove the old ones. An impact driver is what people say to use on any honda-rotor-removal tutorial you can find on the web.

02civicSI
02-06-2004, 09:44 PM
got my HAWK brake pds in today and just got done with the install. very quick and straight forward like you all said. thanks for all the info!

chunky
02-06-2004, 11:22 PM
Originally posted by tony speed
the screws are extremely hard to get off. you'll definitely need a impact driver to get them out with a phillips 3 head. if you do it by hand, you'll probably mess them up beyond repair.

hah! no way! I can always get mine off by hand. they don't have to be put in very tight, they're only a problem if the person installing them over torqued them.

Slip_Angle
02-07-2004, 09:15 AM
02civicsi: How are you finding the new pads? Can you notice a difference in braking? Details!!

I've got my set sitting in my basement until it gets warm enough to go outside and install them!!!!

How long did it take you? Any tips? Did you remove the metal plates from the pads?

Thanks!

02SilverSiHB
02-07-2004, 09:41 PM
Originally posted by chunky
hah! no way! I can always get mine off by hand. they don't have to be put in very tight, they're only a problem if the person installing them over torqued them.
ditto that. At least for my last civic, we'll see how it goes with this one :D

02civicSI
02-07-2004, 09:59 PM
Originally posted by CDN-SiR-02
02civicsi: How are you finding the new pads? Can you notice a difference in braking? Details!!

I've got my set sitting in my basement until it gets warm enough to go outside and install them!!!!

How long did it take you? Any tips? Did you remove the metal plates from the pads?

Thanks!

well after i got done bleeding them the CORRECT way (i fugged them up the first time) i felt an immediate difference. the braking is much better compared to my stock pads. saved myself a ton of money doing it myself. this is my first brake pad change ever so i think i did a good job. took me 30 min per brake. i had 4 jackstands so i could take all four wheels off at the same time. i would say one tip i could give you is buy a can of brake cleaner. $2 and it helped me out. not sure what metal plates you are talking about but i know i didnt remove anything from the pads.

Slip_Angle
02-07-2004, 10:06 PM
Do the brakes need to be bled after changing pads or did you also change the fluid? What is the correct way to do this?

..How hard is it to change brake fluid?

About the metal plate. Someone posted smething about the metal plate on the back of the pads making a noise or something. Just wondered if you had removed them.

Thanks again.

02SilverSiHB
02-07-2004, 10:10 PM
Originally posted by CDN-SiR-02
Do the brakes need to be bled after changing pads or did you also change the fluid? What is the correct way to do this?

..How hard is it to change brake fluid?

About the metal plate. Someone posted smething about the metal plate on the back of the pads making a noise or something. Just wondered if you had removed them.

Thanks again.
yes, they need to be bled to insure no air is in the brake lines...you'll have almost zero braking power if there's air in them. There is a sequence, can't remember exactly what, I think you start at the rear driver side, then the rear passenger side, then the front passenger side then the front driver side...someone correct me if I'm wrong, I don't have my manual in front of me, too lazy.

you're supposed to put anti squeal gel...or whatever they call it now, to the back medal plate of the pads...keeps from making that sound if it moves in the caliper.