PDA

View Full Version : forged internals? gunning for high boost



weltall
02-16-2004, 04:08 PM
where can i find decently priced forged internals for the ep?
pistons
connecting rods
valves
springs
cams
crankcase(maybe)
i have the greddy kit and i want to get the most out of it as i can
also i need to find beefier axles so i wont break ones eat the ricers around here:banana:

myeverlovinsir
02-16-2004, 04:17 PM
I can help you with the axles. LINK (http://www.driveshaftshop.com/HONDAPAGE.ivnu) Level 2 should be good enough for the job.

I think Payntech is comming out with rods and cams for the EP, or you could go with the A2 rods. LINK (http://www.payntechnologies.com/)

The rest would be A or A2 upgrades, except for the pistons.

weltall
02-16-2004, 04:22 PM
Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
I can help you with the axles. LINK (http://www.driveshaftshop.com/HONDAPAGE.ivnu) Level 2 should be good enough for the job.

I think Payntech is comming out with rods and cams for the EP, or you could go with the A2 rods. LINK (http://www.payntechnologies.com/)

The rest would be A or A2 upgrades, except for the pistons.



what is the site for those axles? $$?

myeverlovinsir
02-16-2004, 04:45 PM
Get them off ebay, they are cheaper there. LINK (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33729&item=2452386309)

weltall
02-16-2004, 05:34 PM
cool now all i have to do is find the pistons,rods ,springs,valves
i do plan on sleveing the block and adding a block guard
i plan on adding all this after i get back from iraq cause i will have saved up a lot of $ i just need to find all this stuff so i wont be wasting any time once i get back

how much do you all think this total project will run me?

im guessing <$3500



(hmm a k20 boosted to 25 psi)
the stuff ricers dream about and will never have

myeverlovinsir
02-16-2004, 06:40 PM
Either you sleve it or use a block guard, I would go with the former if you want the true fix. If your going to sleve it, then get it bored out as well and use oversized pistons. The reduced flow in the A3 head is due to the cam setup. I would also look at an A2 head to get the real deal and use the stock springs/retainers or upgrade it to the toda kit. Bottom end with larger rods and pins and low compression pistons should be fine. Everything leads to the A or A2 crank as well. By that time, and money you have spent, I would just look into an A2 swap and build it from there. Save yourself the trouble of adding pieces and start fresh. Good luck with the project.

25psi will put you well over 400whp, so you may want to rethink things.

weltall
02-16-2004, 07:33 PM
sounds like a pretty good set up


as for the 25 psi i just want to crank it up when i want and i dont have to worry about blowing my motor;)

THMotorsports
02-16-2004, 09:28 PM
I can get you great deals on DH Racing stuff. All in house manufactured and built. Hell, you can send out your motor and they will do everything and send it back to ya all ready. Let me know if your interested.

weltall
02-16-2004, 10:18 PM
Originally posted by Truehonda
I can get you great deals on DH Racing stuff. All in house manufactured and built. Hell, you can send out your motor and they will do everything and send it back to ya all ready. Let me know if your interested.

you have a link?

THMotorsports
02-17-2004, 10:42 AM
The store is not complete yet, but I can get you pricing on whatever you need. You can email me an inquiry at sales@truehonda.com . I will be glad to help you with any need you may have.

D16Y8_Turbo
02-17-2004, 04:48 PM
As an owner of the Greddy kit for our Si's, I would make sure that the T517Z turbo can boost that high without compressing the air so much that intake temps soar before you spend all that money on the block. It is surprising how quickly cost increase when building a motor. I'm currently building my Syclone's motor and everytime I call on the status on the block the estimate increases. Be prepared.

Just make sure the efficiency of the T517Z is where you want it to be. I'm willing to bet that the T517Z was not designed to spin to 25 psi. Just some food for thought.

Lastly, the cost of the rods, pistons, valves, etc are all going to depend on what brand (read quality) and if you bored and or stroke the motor. Increase in bore and stroke will change the size of rods and pistons and therefore, in some cases increase cost. Talk to a machine shop and tell them what you want, and they might be able to get prices and the final cost for you.

trk
02-17-2004, 05:01 PM
CybernationMotorsports.com

click on products ...

lots of stuff....

03CivicSi
02-17-2004, 08:15 PM
Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
The rest would be A or A2 upgrades, except for the pistons.

You would go OEM JDM for High Boost? Are they THAT strong? Because the A and A2 are both 220horse,(the A might be 200 idk) but if he was "gunning for high boost" are they going to handle that? or should you go just aftermarket parts for that??

weltall
02-17-2004, 08:31 PM
thats what i said it may be better to aftermarket

ive seen jdm rods and they look way to skinny to give me a warm and fuzzy
:D

vtecnrg
02-21-2004, 09:27 PM
Originally posted by D16Y8_Turbo
Just make sure the efficiency of the T517Z is where you want it to be. I'm willing to bet that the T517Z was not designed to spin to 25 psi. Just some food for thought.

Everything I have read says the T517Z is designed to work efficently at 27 psi. More food for thought. The motor is where the focus needs to be.

dofu
02-22-2004, 04:14 AM
Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
I can help you with the axles. LINK (http://www.driveshaftshop.com/HONDAPAGE.ivnu) Level 2 should be good enough for the job.

do those even fit our cars? i dont see anything for ep3 on thier website... i see k20 axles for older model hondas w/ swap...
edit: :eek: nm :D ;)