upgrades to get now for Turbo latter

[siver-SI]

Now that I am seeing the Turbos getting better and the prices getting better too I know I am going to get a turbo for my EP. The only thing is that I want to pay off all my bills before I do this and that is going to take me around 2 years so I will have no credit card debt. What I am trying to figure out in my head right now is what mods would be good to buy in the mean time but I can keep on the car when I get the Turbo. I just do not want to buy twice.

What I am looking to do this year
Tires and Rims
Get Springs installed. (all ready have bought)
I am thinking of some other suspention upgrades like bars.
This year I am going to try to but a $1000 into the EP and around a $1000 into my shop in upgrades. And get a 4x4 for the winter so my EP does not have to go through all the salt again.


What I would like to do is get a little more performance out of my car but everything I find I would have to get rid of when I get the Turbo. So any idea on what I can get for engine mods that would stay on with a Turbo?

[02NJHondaep3]

well you can build the suspension which is important because if you go faster, you'll need to slow down.

I would build the suspension,drivetrain and if I wanted to go for major boost, i would beef up our internals. We can safely run up to 7 psi stock though.

[civicracer1128]

yup, that basically says it all. i wouldnt do I/H/E cause itll have to get swapped out for the turbo. id just get some decent coilovers/brakes/wheels maybe. then leave the rest alone till the turbos in.

[Lucid Moments]

You might want to think about a clutch, flywheel, and maybe a LSD also.

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by mlkelley68
You might want to think about a clutch, flywheel, and maybe a LSD also.

I am thinking around the same time when I get the Turbo is to bring in a Type R trans and put in some better syncros, but that way I will have the LSD and a 6 speed. This is anouther reason why I have to have my bills down to $0 on the cards. When I pull the engine for the Turbo install then I will install the new trans. Just make life easy for me.

[younggotti266]

brakes, brakes, brakes..........

atleast upgrade the pads & rotors

Or you can just go all out and buy a big brake kit with
calipers

[esmith13]

Strut bars, sway bars, STICKY tires, clutch, LSD, exhaust, suspension.

Their all pretty self explanitory except suspension. When you decide which way to go for your suspension - keep in mind the amount of power and acceleration you will have with a turbo. I had my car on neuspeed race springs for a year before i got a turbo. I loved the ride - I loved the handeling. When the turbo went in and i drove around the springs HAD TO GO. The car bottomed out more, the ride was WAY more harsh. I broke a wheel in a small pothole! during your quicker acceleration with the turbo the suspension will be under MUCH more stress.

I would NOT go lower than 1.5 with a turbo and would choose a soft spring at whatever hight you choose. I know this sounds a little backwards, but i learned from experience. I wound up on Eibach Sportlines with my car. I'm glad i chose them over tein because the ride is WAY less harsh than tein's are on another turbo'd EP I rode in. Mind you this is coming from someone that loved the ride on neuspeed race springs...

Anyhoo, good luck with your car - hope you get your turbo sooner than you think. ;)

Eric

[My 2003 Si]

i know what you mena man.. slat sucks.. but do hook up ur EP... and get a shit box 4x4 for the winter.. and keep the Ep in a garage or something.. i am putting my ride in the garage at my house.. can fit maybe around.. 5 cars on the bottom.. and a couple up top.. its a weird garage kind of like a house.. well peace

[chet]

If I were in your position, I would definitely go w/suspension and LSD. Loss of traction sucks ass. THen, if I could actually afford it, I would go exhaust and clutch/flywheel.

[esmith13]

Why does everyone keep saying flywheel??

Keeping the heavier stock flywheel will only loose you 2-4WHP but will help keep you IN boost during a shift from one gear to the next. That's WAY more important than 2-4WHP...

Hell, for that matter - why recommend a LSD then? You'll loose a few ponies with that added too, but what you gain in traction with one is well more than worth it...

Considering 50% or more of your horsepower is only had IN boost, I would think staying in boost is more important than the last 2-4WHP and the ability to Rev faser...

Just my .02

Eric

[chet]

Originally posted by esmith13
Why does everyone keep saying flywheel??

Keeping the heavier stock flywheel will only loose you 2-4WHP but will help keep you IN boost during a shift from one gear to the next. That's WAY more important than 2-4WHP...

Hell, for that matter - why recommend a LSD then? You'll loose a few ponies with that added too, but what you gain in traction with one is well more than worth it...

Considering 50% or more of your horsepower is only had IN boost, I would think staying in boost is more important than the last 2-4WHP and the ability to Rev faser...

Just my .02

Eric

Good point, first of all, but honestly I don't think people take into account the info you just provided. SO many of us are quick to spend every freakin dollar we have just to have more. They're usually offered together as a set, just so vendors can get you to spend more. Personally, I'm just going w/clutch now. Thanks Eric for the very worthy .02:)

[esmith13]

np ;) Thanks for the kind word :)

But on a further note - i thought of something after I typed that...

If you turbo and put down at least 250WHP, you'll need a GREAT clutch. Everyone is recommending RSX-S aftermarket clutches because they hold under more power than the Si clutches do. Unfortunately that means you need a type-s flywheel to mate the clutch with. In my case, to keep the weight - I'm looking for a stock/OEM type-s flywheel. It's a few pounds lighter than the Si flywheel but alot heavier than a lightened one. So i guess at least in my own case i need a flywheel anyway. :(

Oh, well... It was still a good point. ;)

Oh, and along the same lines... if engine internals are done with a turbo - the low compression pistons out now ALL require a type-s crankshaft. so anyone who considers spending the $1100 for pistons and rods has to add about $400 more for a type-s crankshaft to bolt them to. There are currently no piston/rod upgrades that work with the A3's crankshaft.

Turboing and doing it RIGHT get's VERY expensive - VERY fast. :(

Eric

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by esmith13
np ;) Thanks for the kind word :)

But on a further note - i thought of something after I typed that...

If you turbo and put down at least 250WHP, you'll need a GREAT clutch. Everyone is recommending RSX-S aftermarket clutches because they hold under more power than the Si clutches do. Unfortunately that means you need a type-s flywheel to mate the clutch with. In my case, to keep the weight - I'm looking for a stock/OEM type-s flywheel. It's a few pounds lighter than the Si flywheel but alot heavier than a lightened one. So i guess at least in my own case i need a flywheel anyway. :(

Oh, well... It was still a good point. ;)

Oh, and along the same lines... if engine internals are done with a turbo - the low compression pistons out now ALL require a type-s crankshaft. so anyone who considers spending the $1100 for pistons and rods has to add about $400 more for a type-s crankshaft to bolt them to. There are currently no piston/rod upgrades that work with the A3's crankshaft.

Turboing and doing it RIGHT get's VERY expensive - VERY fast. :(

Eric

I have been thinking of just doing a A2 swap just for the upgrade in internals. I am planing to spend around a total of around $5000+ when I am all done. I am pulling the engine just to install the turbo to make life easy for me so that way I can to the trans at the same time. I just do not want to install the turbo and a year or two latter be pulling out the engine to rebuild it. This is anouther reason I want a extra truck and no bills so that way if I do have a problem or find a problem in the install I do not have to worry about how I am going to get to work on Monday and were I am going to get the cash. I am going to have my shop fully heated by the time I do the turbo so it will most likely be a winter install. By that time also I should have my welder and a few larger tools payed off on my account at work so I will be able to put a lift on my account at work. So that way I can drop the engine with no problems. That is the on thing great about working at Snap-on a 2500 credit limit and a discount for just working there and no interest to pay ever.

[esmith13]

you need to install the turbo with the engine IN the car.

Also, The A3 boosts better than the A2 due to lower compression and 5 spd vs 6spd. The only two parts you need from a type-s are the crankshaft and the flywheel (but if you DO go lightened, that's irrelivant) so ow would you justift paying for a swap with the intention to turbo as being better?? Stick with the A3 if your DEFINATELY going to turbo. Stick with a 5spd as well...

Eric

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by esmith13
you need to install the turbo with the engine IN the car.

Also, The A3 boosts better than the A2 due to lower compression and 5 spd vs 6spd. The only two parts you need from a type-s are the crankshaft and the flywheel (but if you DO go lightened, that's irrelivant) so ow would you justift paying for a swap with the intention to turbo as being better?? Stick with the A3 if your DEFINATELY going to turbo. Stick with a 5spd as well...

Eric

Ok saves me an engine drop then. I did not know that the A3 was better. For internals I just want to beef them up so they can take the wear and tear. Would cams be a good thing to get too? Thanks for the tips because that will save me some good cash then. The cheaper I can keep it with staying reliable the happier I will be.

[esmith13]

as of right now, the only upgrades engine wise for a turbo Ep would be:

Stage I: nothing, your fine upto 10-12psi for daily driving or 15psi if it's not your daily driver

Stage II: Pistons & rods (need type-s crank)

Stage III: Darton Sleeve for block, valve springs & retainers

Stage IV: Block guard & studs

Depending on your turbo kit you will probably be able to turn the boost up and down whenever you want - doing internals so nothing goes BOOM is the only thing stopping you. So you can do as much of the above as you want and say if you get a kit with an AFC you can save a fuel map for max boost and a second one to flip to for lower boost settings.

Also the clutch i an issue as well above stage I as well as it being an issue for stage I about a year after your turbo'd ;)

If you plan on keeping it daily drivable with some level of comfort, you would just want to do pistons/rods/crank/clutch and stick wit 7-18psi.

Aside from that just get a good heavyweight full synthetic oil and tranny fluid to make sure your engine stays well lubed. I also strated to invest in ZYMAX at the local auto parts place. That stuff REALLY works - no bullshit.

Anyhoo, good luck with your ride, dude.

Eric