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View Full Version : Installed Greddy Turbo...My Comments



D16Y8_Turbo
03-19-2004, 05:29 PM
I'm sure you looking at this to see how I like it, how does the car run, etc.

First, I would like to say, I did not install it by myself. The Honda dealership did most. Thursday night I drove the car home. It was snowing/raining. Could not tell how the car was running but bottom end the car moves compared to a NA car. That's obvious. Here is the good stuff. Friday, it is nice and dry out. On my way to get my hair cut, I'm flogging it naturally. I find myself disappointed in the car's performance. My old EX pulled way harder in higher RPM's than the bigger displacement Si. Weird, I thought.

Car had a slight oil leak, so I had the dealership replace the washer with a thicker Honda Passport washer. Fixed the oil dripping. One of the tech's asked how the car ran and I replied, "if this is 6 lbs, it is disappointing."

I didn't hook up the boost gauge until a hour or so ago to find that the car was only running 3 lbs of boost and 4.5 ish in 3rd gear. That's right, 3 lbs in 1st and 2nd.

Why? I am thinking that because my BOV is hooked into the vacuum line that the wastegate actuator is in, under hard accelerating I hear a hiss sound, and that noise I believe is my positive manifold pressure that should be going into the motor and not out through my BOV.

My question to those with turbo's (any kit, doesn't matter) what line are you using to route to the BOV? I still have to put my boost controller in tomorrow and I want to know how you guys have your BOV set up. The Honda tech (who read the Si repair manual) said there is only one vacuum line. I find that hard to believe. Is it true?

As always, comments and suggests welcome.

I would like to solve my boost leak before I go to the Columbus Car meet with all 6 of my friends instead of the 3 if you know what I mean :D

danoonez
03-19-2004, 06:11 PM
You mean the BOV is teed into the line off the turbo? Try teeing off the line from the intake manifold, see how that works out for you.

Jeez I can imagine your dissappointment until you realized you were only pushing 3psi.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-19-2004, 06:32 PM
Originally posted by danoonez
You mean the BOV is teed into the line off the turbo? Try teeing off the line from the intake manifold, see how that works out for you.

Yes and no. Let me explain. The BOV and the actuator are BOTH teed into the same line. Danoonez, I understand what your saying, but there is only one line off the manifold...according to the shop manual.

I could just tee the boost controller in and turn up the boost for a quick bandaid but rather just do it right.

Anyone know where they teed there BOV into?

While I'm waiting on replies, I guess I'll ditch the NCAA games to wash and wax :)

UPDATE!!!

I was rereading the install instructions and saw the restrictor plate. I thought I read on here that you don't need to install the restrictor plate. After taking the intake off from the inlet to the turbo I found the restrictor plate installed on my turbo. Could this be a reason why just 3 lbs of boost? Just waxed the car and it is suppose to rain tonight. I'll try it out in the morning. Someone has to know.

Echelon
03-19-2004, 10:30 PM
from everything i heard, if you're using an IC then u shouldn't have the restrictor plate, but if u do its ok to have it, not good or bad....but thats just what i've heard

D16Y8_Turbo
03-19-2004, 10:32 PM
The restrictor plate is suppose to limit boost according to the directions. I'm not sure if it can stop the turbo from spinning 2 or 3 more lbs.

In the morning I'll know.

danoonez
03-19-2004, 10:43 PM
Originally posted by D16Y8_Turbo
Yes and no. Let me explain. The BOV and the actuator are BOTH teed into the same line. Danoonez, I understand what your saying, but there is only one line off the manifold...according to the shop manual.

Anyone know where they teed there BOV into?

UPDATE!!!

I was rereading the install instructions and saw the restrictor plate. I thought I read on here that you don't need to install the restrictor plate. After taking the intake off from the inlet to the turbo I found the restrictor plate installed on my turbo. Could this be a reason why just 3 lbs of boost? Just waxed the car and it is suppose to rain tonight. I'll try it out in the morning. Someone has to know.

So both your wastegate your blow off valve are teed into the line from the intake manifold? Why didn't they use the nozzle on the compressor for the wastegate and leave the intake vacuum line alone for the BOV? I know most people use the intake vacuum line for the BOV so I don't think you're teed into the wrong line. Maybe there's a problem with your blowoff valve itself (what kind are you using by the way). I think removing the restrictor plate only frees up about 1psi (to account for the small loss across the intercooler) too so I dont think that could be it, but I would get rid of it anyway, just to make sure.

You are right though, there is only one line off the intake manifold, so I guess all you can do is 1) take off the restrictor plate and 2) double check all the clamps on the vacuum tees. After that if everything checks out right, I would say you probably have a problematic BOV.

Tried my best to help.

ecsahs3
03-19-2004, 10:51 PM
the best person to ask would be epnezay. he has a greddy turbo and is very well knowledge about the system.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-20-2004, 09:28 AM
After thinking about it, I've come to the conclusion that the leak is due to a poor weld on the BOV. I talked to the tech and he told me the welder F$cked up the weld and blew all kinds of holes through the pipe. Looking at it, I can see holes in the weld. No doubt this is the cause.

Monday, I'm taking the pipe off to have it cleaned up and rewelded and hopefully that will fix the air leak.

:'(

danoonez
03-20-2004, 06:27 PM
Originally posted by D16Y8_Turbo
After thinking about it, I've come to the conclusion that the leak is due to a poor weld on the BOV. I talked to the tech and he told me the welder F$cked up the weld and blew all kinds of holes through the pipe. Looking at it, I can see holes in the weld. No doubt this is the cause.

Monday, I'm taking the pipe off to have it cleaned up and rewelded and hopefully that will fix the air leak.

:'(

That sucks. Keep us updated though. Hopefully you'll get to enjoy the turbo soon.

vtecnrg
03-20-2004, 09:04 PM
Just saw this tonight. I am have the Greddy Kit and the HKS bov, no intercooler. My boost gauge reads 8lbs with the restrictor plate in place. It would make sense that it was a poor weld, 3 lbs just sounds very, very wrong. When installed correctly it pulls hard but it is very smooth. Keep us updated.

ep3guy
03-21-2004, 05:18 AM
I never had the restrictor plate on my car at all.. but Paul had the restricter plate in when he was running without the intercooler. He took off the restricter plate and the boost did go up a little.. forgot how much though. Also, are you running the old e-manage or the new e-manage tune where you do not run rich?

When I got the new e-manage, the car had a VERY smooth powerband and keep going. With the older e-amange, I felt that it had a little kick once boost hits.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-21-2004, 06:47 AM
I have had the ECU reflashed for the Greddy turbo by Hondata.

ep_nezay
03-22-2004, 09:21 PM
Ok, just got back on my internet after a few days of rest:)
Anyways, yea, that sounded like it had a leak.
Anytime you have a leak anywhere(vacuum line, or pipping) you wont be able to achive full boost.
Also, take off your restrictor plate since you have an IC, it will give you a jump to 8psi when you hit WOT, then it drops down to 7 @ full boost.

BTW- Did you install your crank pressure line?

danoonez
03-22-2004, 10:02 PM
Originally posted by ep_nezay
crank pressure line?


???

ep_nezay
03-22-2004, 10:55 PM
This one.
Only pic I have, Ill take a better one later.
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/i=wMzIzMjY5NnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

danoonez
03-22-2004, 11:14 PM
Not working

ep_nezay
03-23-2004, 02:53 AM
The picture has been working for me the whole time.
Anyone else have a problem?

danoonez
03-23-2004, 10:14 AM
Alright I see it now. I've never heard of the crank pressure line. What's it for?

SFPracing
03-23-2004, 02:57 PM
It's probabaly already been said but actuators are fed off of a pressure line pre throttle body. (usually off the compressor of the turbo. (unless you have an electronic boost controller) The BOV should be tapped in after the t body.

ep_nezay
03-23-2004, 05:48 PM
Originally posted by danoonez
Alright I see it now. I've never heard of the crank pressure line. What's it for?


The crank case vacuum line is for the air pressure to recirculate to the manifold.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-23-2004, 05:48 PM
Spoke with Greddy tech on the phone, he told me the way I was doing it was "just ok" but should have a separate vacuum line from the manifold just for the BOV. First I'm going to fix the weld and go from there.

ep_nezay
03-23-2004, 05:52 PM
BTW-D16Y8_Turbo
If you dont have a boost controller, these are the lines youll need to T.
Actuator
Manifold
BOV

And I already told you how to do it with a BC.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-23-2004, 05:54 PM
I do have a manual boost controller (Turbo XS). I will have the boost controller teed into the actuator to manifold line with the BOV as a separate line. Could I use the crank pressure line for the BOV?

ep_nezay
03-23-2004, 06:03 PM
The way I have it(using GreddyprofecB)
The actuator line and manifold line are going to the boost-controller unit(black box) inside the engine bay.
The BOV and crank case line are T'd and going into the boost-controller inside the car.

bgsteve523
03-25-2004, 10:17 AM
hey d16y8 did you ever get the prob fixed just wondering and if so how is the kit responding now?

Peking
03-25-2004, 04:34 PM
ep_nezay

Where are you located? And this is good info :)

ep_nezay
03-25-2004, 06:30 PM
Cali:)

D16Y8_Turbo
03-25-2004, 06:44 PM
Had the flange on the charge pipe rewelded today.

All the difference.

Before I got out of the parking lot I got full boost. The new weld is holding so now I can give my impression. The turbo kit with the reflash is beyond what I expected in terms of performance. The EP's performance is on par with my old Civic that ran high 13's with higher boost. Very impressed with how the turbo spools. The 8 cm housing I believe has good spool. I took half the dealership employees for rides. Even the guy with a Supercharged Integ. After riding in the supercharged Teg, I know that my EP will crush the supercharged Integra.

I plan on going to the strip on Sunday for a test and tune since my Syclone isn't finished :( Now I'm hoping and praying that the clutch will make it til the summer. With the stock wheels on, the tires just squeel from 5,000 RPM's until I shift.

With the manual boost controller on or any boost controller, does anyone else have a prob with boost spiking? Hits 9 in a hurry then goes down to 7 ish pounds.

I'll post more later once I drive the car more. I can tell you I know what mod I need next...Big Brakes. :D

Eee Pee
03-25-2004, 07:56 PM
I saw those crap weld holes in person...

Good to hear you got it running.
Makes me jealous, and rub my chin in a "wanting to spend money" kind of way.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-26-2004, 08:52 PM
I have driven the car a little more since I had the weld fixed. I'm surprised at the performance. The car is a lot different in terms of power delivery than I would expected.

My car does not have an exhaust or any other mods for performance except for the Hondata IM gasket. Pop the hood and its just the turbo and intercooler with the Hondata reflash.

I mentioned above that I took lots of people for a ride. I also took my bro for a ride to go to the bank. As we were headed back to work, a 92-95 hatch is 2 cars ahead of me. Light turned red and the other car in between changed lanes. Now, I am directly behind the hatch. On the glass read "Mugen Power." He starts revving, I just grin. He and I both have passengers.

Light turns green, he takes off kinda of easy but then theres a cloud of smoke from the exhaust. My bro is yelling "go go go." 1st gear goes by blindingly quick. As I shift to 2nd, I change into the right lane while the EP is around 5,000 RPM's and the little stock tires and wheels squeel in protest and the passenger of the old hatch looks at me with big eyes :eek: As I wind out 2nd and shift into third it is obvious that the little old hatch had the DX motor in it and not a swap :'( . As we pull into the dealership, the young guys driving the hatch want to talk. Despite not having any visual modifications, they still said they noticed the intercooler while at the light. They also commented on nice sound of turbo as I blew past them. And I thought it was quiet for not having an exhaust.

This morning was a mistake. It had recently rained and Bad to the Bone was playing. A young kid in a Civic coupe with his younger brother were revving at me at the light. Being a weak suck, I gave in to his revving. Mistake. It was pointless, first and second I couldn't get anything for traction since the roads were still wet. That kid in the 92-95 Coupe was probably really happy he beat me in a 80 ft race to the on ramp. It was a good thing for him that his little Civic coupe didn't have enough to spin the tires on the wet roads. I chalk that up to a over confident gut feeling. I learned a lesson.

I thought the EP was fun with just the Hondata N/A reflash but now this car is freaky fun to drive.

Until next time...

vtecnrg
03-26-2004, 09:24 PM
I have had similar experiences in wet or low traction situations. I have learned with the Greddy that it does take a slight moment to spool so initially I get on the throttle hard, let it spool, back off the throttle and ease into it gently/smoothly and my accelerations have become much quicker. I have noticed more traction issues with stock wheels vs. the 17 inchers. Do you get any wheel hop under hard accelerations. I did and some motor mounts really helped out.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-26-2004, 09:28 PM
Originally posted by vtecnrg
I have noticed more traction issues with stock wheels vs. the 17 inchers. Do you get any wheel hop under hard accelerations. I did and some motor mounts really helped out.

Ohio weather is crazy. It is 70 out and the next day it could snow. Anyway, I am using my stock wheels until I'm absolutely sure that there is no more snow coming.

Wheel hop? A thing of the past with the ES motor mount inserts. Glad I got them before the turbo. I am probably going to get the J's Engine Dampener soon.

rook
03-27-2004, 10:22 AM
With the Hondata flash for the Greddy turbo kit w/intercooler, is this a plug and play set up? Is there tuning required after the system is installed? What is the cost for the flash? Novice questions, I am sure. I am seriously thinking Greddy and you are the only one I am aware of that is running this specific set up.

Thanks for your help

rook

bgsteve523
03-27-2004, 12:35 PM
d16y8 I am glad you like the greddy kit. How does it compair to your old Greddy civic? How much HP were you pushing on you old civic? I can't wait to do my install I hope I have some time real soon to do mine. It kills me every day to look at my kit in my garage and not have it on the car yet. Sorry just venting.
Steve O

D16Y8_Turbo
03-27-2004, 06:32 PM
As for the reflash with the Greddy kit question...

Yes, it is a plug and play. You send the ECU and Emanage out to Hondata and they recalibrate them. It takes literally 3 minutes to remove the ECU from the car. Hondata does the tuning for you. If your looking for more power than the reflash you will have to tune on the dyno but for me the car runs great, so no need to tinker.

Cost of the reflash for the Greddy kit was 200 bucks. I already had the NA reflash so my cost was cheaper.

Bgsteve...

My old civic was very different from my EP. I had drag radials on the car and ran 102 octane when I raced. Boost was between 12 and 15 lbs. Depending on my ignition and octane I was using that night. I never got to race the car with the high boost and drag radials because I needed to replace the oxygen sensors. Instead I sold the car. But, the car ran 13.8 with 10 lbs of boost and street tires. To gauge the car's performance, I raced my bro's 2002 M3, with 12 lbs and won by 2 car lengths to 125 ish mph. I missed 3rd, twice. That car was a freak. Why so high of boost without strong internals? The motor was 350 bucks to buy a used one. Cheaper to throw a used motor in than to rebuild the motor. In short, I never dynoed the car with the turbo. I would guess it was pushing 220-230 at the wheels on 12 lbs. High 100's in torque with the same boost level.

The EP would be comparable to the EX on 10-12 lbs. The EP makes more torque because of the increased displacement. I would take the EP over the EX in a race all day.

Set some time aside, you won't regret the Greddy kit. BTW, I took a fellow EP owner on a ride who was in for service today at the dealership. He wants a turbo now :)

Are you using the reflash from Hondata with your kit?

bgsteve523
03-28-2004, 10:11 AM
Thank you for all the info.
Yes I will be using the hondata flash I have the N/A tune now and I tlaked to Hondata to see if I can fun the greddy flash with out a I/C they said you can but you should have an I/C So I am taking that as a yes. I will get the I/C prob in like DEC 2004 just need to finish paying off the turbo first. Thats the deal I made with my wife. So I am planing to run the greddy Flash with out an I/C I hope its going to be safe to do.
Have a good day,
Steve O

rook
03-28-2004, 10:28 AM
Thanks for the info. I saw vtecnrg's car put down 230 hp and 200 tq, so I bet your feeling's about the output is spot on. I think this is in my future.

rook

D16Y8_Turbo
03-28-2004, 07:47 PM
Originally posted by rook
Thanks for the info. I saw vtecnrg's car put down 230 hp and 200 tq

I have the stock exhaust though. I would guess I am around the 200 whp. I know I preached about having the stock exhaust and not replacing it, but Monday I'm going to order the magnaflow exhaust. Looks similar to stock exhaust. Install will be Friday.

skooba
03-28-2004, 08:08 PM
Originally posted by D16Y8_Turbo
I have the stock exhaust though. I would guess I am around the 200 whp. I know I preached about having the stock exhaust and not replacing it, but Monday I'm going to order the magnaflow exhaust. Looks similar to stock exhaust. Install will be Friday.

Hmm I seem to remember hearing that the Magnaflow doesn't perform well when coupled with a turbo, I could be wrong, but you may want to look into it more, just a heads up.

D16Y8_Turbo
03-28-2004, 10:48 PM
Thanks for the info.

Another EP owner has the Jackson Racing Supercharger using the Magnaflow exhaust. I appreciate the heads up. A search is in order.

UPDATE

Ordered the Magnaflow exhaust from Hottexhaust.com and got the ep hatch discount. They told me before they ship the exhaust, they are going to consult the turbo guru there about the 2.25 inch piping on the greddy kit. Might be to small, so they will call me back before they ship it.

Thought you guys might like to know about that. Cost? $321.99 Shipped.