Currently doing spring install, but stuck, HELP!

[north9586]

Ok, we are currently doing a spring install, we are at the point where we have the wheel off and are trying to force the bolt up on the tie rod, but CANNOT get that thing loose.....any suggestions?
THANKS

~Andrew

[Gearhead Geek]

Here's a few suggestions:
1) If you have a second vehicle, go to AutoZone or Sears or somewhere and buy a tierod puller (NOT the big pitchfork kind, the clamp/screw kind. may also be called a pitman arm puller)
2) Take a hammer, and bang on the outside of where the tierod connects to in various places. Perhaps spray some PB Blaster or another penetrating oil in before doing so. With enough whacks, the vibrations may break it loose.
3) Take a piece of wood, and place it below the tierod stud, then bang upwards with a hammer.
4) Loosen the nut until it's flush with the stud, and bang with a hammer (do this if you don't have a piece of wood laying around)

If all else fails, you CAN install the springs while the damper assembly is still attached to the tie rod, however it's slightly tedious to get everything lined up correctly doing it this way, so it should be your EXTREME last resort method.

Also, when your driveshafts fall out (and trust me, they WILL fall out :p), have someone "massage" the ball bearings, while you turn the rotor back and forth while pushing up and inward on it. The person "massaging" the bearings will be able to feel when they catch, and that's when you just have to really push on the rotor. If it doesn't want to go in when you do, just keep turning it while pushing. Have patience, and it will go back in.

[north9586]

:D THANK YOU SO MUCH! ....we tried working with other things, and low and behold the driveshaft fell out and that had us shook. Well, we're off to get the tierod puller! Thanks again!!

~Andrew

P.S. Is your avatar Johnny?

[Gearhead Geek]

No prob.
As for my avatar, I dunno what it is. There's a thread in Off Topic where a bunch of people typed in their screenname on the Google image search and posted the pics that came up, and this was like the 3rd one that came up for me, and I just thought it suited me pretty well :p

[north9586]

i ran into another problem, i am looking at the instruction on k-series and it says to cut the bump stop, but i am confused of what that is. I think it is the ruber boot that is over my shock. could someone tell me what i have to cut????

~Andrew

[Gearhead Geek]

*EDIT to previous post*

yes, the bumpstops the the little orange things on the shock, below the circular metal plate. to get them off (makes it easier to cut), just hold the shock, and tap up on the metal plate with a pair of channel locks or a small (preferably rubber) hammer.

now, as far as cutting them goes. most springs will come with instructions as to wether or not to cut them, and how much to cut. with the eibach sportlines, you don't need to cut the fronts, and they give you replacements for the rear. with the prokit's (and someone correct me if i'm wrong), you just use the stock ones all around. other manufacturer's may be different, but i believe most will tell you wether to cut and how much to cut.

now, as i asked in this original post, which springs are you installing?

[north9586]

Tein S-tech springs. I don't see any yellow thing on the shock. Also, any specific grease that I we need to use? ...or do we really need additional grease at all?
Thanks again.


~Andrew

(Side note: I think your avatar is a comic character called Johnny the Homicidal Maniac.)

[Gearhead Geek]

Ok, well with the Teins I don't know how much to cut, I'd suggest searching on here or k-series, i'm sure you'll find it somewhere. Now, to find the bumpstop, once you have the damper out, and the stock spring off, there should be a pretty flimsy plastic cover on the shock. Pull it off, of the rod, and you should see a small circular metal plate, with a yellow/orangeish rubber thing. That's the bumpstop.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/catimgs/13S5S01_B28.gif
There's the front assembly, the bumpstop is part #8 (it may not be orange, and there may not be a dust cover on it. I didn't pay much attention on mine, since with the Sportlines I didn't have to cut or replace it), however it should come off very simply with the method I mentioned earlier.

http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/catimgs/13S5S01_B30.gif
And here's the rear, the bumpstop is part #12.

[north9586]

Would you happen to have a diagram of that driveshaft, because we I suppose aren't very skilled massagers....and can't get it back in. :(

~Andrew

[north9586]

Nevermind! got it! 1 down...3 to go! :)

I think we may have it from here, thank you very much for all your help. If you're ever in the Socal area, we owe you lunch!

~Andrew

[Gearhead Geek]

Hehe, no prob. Also just a hint when ya get to the rears:
You obviously don't have to deal with the driveshafts back there, but getting the damper out (or moreso, back in) can be kind of tricky. Don't be afraid to really push down on the rotor to get the lower arms to move down. Infact, durring my install, I acctually had to have my friend _stand_ on the hat of the rotor to get the damper to line up to the bolt holes. Also, using a screwdriver to help slide the damper into place while your friend stands on it can be helpful (Stick it in from the inside, and below. I found this to be the easiest). You won't break anything, but don't be surprised if it throws the toe angle off in the rear. But of course, you're planning to get a four wheel alignment after you're done with the install, right? ;)

[siver-SI]

I just got done with my EP about a hour ago and the tie rods were a pain and the rears just needed a little work. The tie rods I first tried a lead hammer but did not do a thing. So then I used my puller. I hated that thing because on both sides it did not dammage to the threads. Taught me one thing though Craftmans is crap compared to snap-on. Next time I get some tools from work I will have to add that to the list.

The rears were a pain to get to the back bolt and to get the bottom bolt in I had to use a jack to get it to line up since it was a one man job.

[Siman]

you know you supposed to even the threads with the loosend nut then HAMMER at the nut/tirod ends.....works every time....just make sure there are NO threads showing....i had to retap mine..

luckyly when i did my progress spring install, it was during my autotech class heheheheheheh:p ;)

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by Siman
you know you supposed to even the threads with the loosend nut then HAMMER at the nut/tirod ends.....works every time....just make sure there are NO threads showing....i had to retap mine..

luckyly when i did my progress spring install, it was during my autotech class heheheheheheh:p ;)
actually, you know you are not supposed to. the manual says to use something else...
anyway, that hammer trick doesn't work all the time depends on the car. I've ran into 5 eps that will hammer out, and 5 that won't. Either way, I would never hammer the damn thing out anyway, takes to long. I just use the tie rod puller...now that works everytime.

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
actually, you know you are not supposed to. the manual says to use something else...
anyway, that hammer trick doesn't work all the time depends on the car. I've ran into 5 eps that will hammer out, and 5 that won't. Either way, I would never hammer the damn thing out anyway, takes to long. I just use the tie rod puller...now that works everytime.

I tried a hammer and it would not give. I used a lead and a wood one so that I would not dammage the nut or thread. I had to use a puller and I hated to use it because it dammaged the threads, but after working with it I got everything back together just fine. Live and learn I guess.

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by siver-SI
I tried a hammer and it would not give. I used a lead and a wood one so that I would not dammage the nut or thread. I had to use a puller and I hated to use it because it dammaged the threads, but after working with it I got everything back together just fine. Live and learn I guess.
strange...what kind of puller did you use? The kind I use has these claws that go in between the tie rod and the arm. Then it pushes it out...never contacts the threads.

[Soon2beEP3]

Maybe u guys can help. I just installed my pro-kits Friday. There is a vibrating noise coming from both of my front strut assemblies. Sounds kinda like the top part the holds the spring down is loose and when I go over bumps it rattles. Nothing is loose.I don't think the spring is seated in the rubber boot correctly ,but, it sounds like metal rattling around. Thanks in advance.
I would do a search but I don't know what to enter clunk clunk clunk or rattle rattle rattle.

[siver-SI]

The one I have is a sears one and it has arms that grab onto the arm and then as you turn the bottom screw it pushes the stud up. The problem is that the screw on it has a tip at the end so if it gets a little off it can get in the tread and dammage then a little. This one was designed so you did not have to worry about dammaging the boot. Only problem is the one I had with the design.

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by siver-SI
The one I have is a sears one and it has arms that grab onto the arm and then as you turn the bottom screw it pushes the stud up. The problem is that the screw on it has a tip at the end so if it gets a little off it can get in the tread and dammage then a little. This one was designed so you did not have to worry about dammaging the boot. Only problem is the one I had with the design.
ah sounds like the same one I have...just got lucky I guess.