Alpine Type-R 12"

[Brettnyt]

Hey guys,
For quite some time, I was interested in picking up a 12" JL W7 for my hatch and running the JL 1000/1 to it, but now looking at the price, that would be absolutely rediculous. After a short listening period yesterday in a car audio store, the 12" Alpine Type-R caught my attention. It sounded reeeally nice to me... I want to be able to rumble the cars around me. Would 2 of these be able to do this with the right power? What power do you reccomend? What type of enclosure? The more information the better. Thanks for the help guys!

-Brett

[VIZHUNZ02SI]

bro i had a 12 type r alpine in my hatch and i had a mono alpine amp 700w and lemme tell you. that shit thumps get a sealed box for it

[evilep3]

I have a type r 10" and a Digital Audio 850 watt 2 channel amp and it souds amazing.

my friends wrx has a w7 in the trunk and it hit soooo hard. mine pounds hard enough for the hacth, and cost 1/3 of his speaker alone... lets put it that way.

[Brettnyt]

Right on.... I deffinitely wanna be loud and clean.... I love bass from like some of the harder rap songs, (lil john and the eastide boys) you know, those LOW hits... I wanna be able to rumble the cars around me.... So this will do it for me? Would I be best off running 2 alpine 700 watt amps to em? :D

[evilep3]

ya with dvc you are gonna need high watts to power two of em. 700 each should so it.

[Brettnyt]

What about 550watts each?

These amps any good?

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1 of those for each sub... Would that be adequate?

[evilep3]

ya those are some dope amps. however i know my 10 can only handle 450w rms so 550 rms might be pushing it. im not sure what the rms rating is on the 12s though... make sure to check it.

[Brettnyt]

ah, power ratings are the same for the 10"s and 12"s.... I dont really know how this stuff works.... Would that be too much power for em?

[Brettnyt]

Ooo... Wait, total peak for each sub is a grand, so how would 1 of these for each sub work... 400 RMS and 900 peak... would that be good? I want sickening bass.... Would 2 subs with 2 of these amps give me the bass I want?

[TrippZ]

rms is the max a sub can handle, if you put a 500 rms amp powering a 400 rms sub good chacne you'll blow the fucker real quick lol

[Brettnyt]

Hmmm. nevermind ;) hahaha. How would these things do in the hatch if I ran the JL Audio 500/1 to em???

[seattlecivic]

Hey Brett, I had a 12" Type R sub too in my last car. I think they have been out for like 3 years now. Anways, all you need is like two 10" or one 12". Due to it having such a high RMS handeling of 1G... Space saver wise, you should go with a 12". That way it has a smaller box :-) As for the amp, I forgot what my amps were, but it wasn't even 500watts and that $hit hit super hard. A 500/1 amp would be awesome. I would love to hear the sub at its max potential. You would shake the earth.

What deck are you using too? If you add a sub, do you plan on keeping your other speakers stock? I think they sound okay already. You should be fine with just adding one 12" and the amp... or whatever is cheaper :-)

-SS

[Brettnyt]

Hey guys,
I decided I will prolly run an MTX 1501D to it. A LOT of power. More power than RMS, but my friend is running the same thing in his BMW and he says they do great. I'm hoping these subs with this power will be enough to rumble some stuff. I want enough bass to set off car alarms when I want to. I want people to hear moe coming. Whatchu guys think?

[seattlecivic]

That should definetly do the trick. Are you planning on dynomatting it too? It will really clean up the sound. SUPER CLEAN & FRESH!

[Brettnyt]

I will not dynomat it right away, but if it sounds horrible w/o, i would dynomat the hatch.

[seattlecivic]

Yeah, you shouldn't have to use dynomat. It should still sound great. Maybe that could be the last thing on your list and keep up on performance\sound mods ;-) Just my .02's!

^_^

[sirdee]

there is nothing wrong with getting a bigger amp. Just don't turn the gains up so high. You'll get cleaner sound with more watts , and the amp won't have to work so hard. This = less heat. Rms is the continuous power the sub can handel according to the manufacture. the max or peak power is self explanatory. And when you buy an amp read the specs carfully. For example there are different output ratings, Usally one for 2 ohm and 4 ohm , one at 12 volts and one at 14.4. I hope this helps.

[EnJaNir]

I have the MRD-M500 pushing the SWR-1241D and its loud and clean..

[evilep3]

i have been running without any dynomat and i have no complaints. the only thing that rattles out side the car is my license plate, and inside sounds great.

[Jay H]

It's very easy to fry a voice coil (blow it up) on a sub with too little power. Run 15 watts into a sub that has a 500 watt RMS rating and you'll fry it pretty quickly if you clip (overdrive) that 15 watt amp. You can run 1000 watts of clean, unclipped power into a 500 watt RMS driver without damaging it.

My rule of thumb that I've used over the years is to take the RMS rating of the sub and double it. Then buy an amp that has an ouput (at the same ohm rating of the sub) that is close to that rating. If you have the correct box for the sub, you'll probably never blow it up unless you abuse the system. For example, I've taken pro audio 18" JBL subs that are rated at 600 watts RMS and shoved 1200 watts of kick drum and bass guitar at them for hours without damaging anything.

Sirdee is right in that having a huge amp "idling" with the gain down gives a very safe margin. That amp will never clip and clipping = excess heat to the voice coil. Invest in the bigger amp if you can.

Jay
My 03 Si (http://www.jays911.com/Si.htm)

[Jay H]

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