2365 Miles report

[BlasTech]

Im at 2365 miles, first checkup:

Oil is halfway between the dots... looks like I need to add 1/2 quart

Coolant: EEEK, way down at the MIN line!

[Mechanic]

Blas Tech,

When was the coolant level at the "min" line? If the engine was cold (i.e., it hadn't been run in, say, four or five hours), then the fact that the coolant was at the minimum level in the catch tank is no big deal. In fact, it's normal. (As the antifreeze and water cool, they contract and are pulled out of the catchtank back into the radiator and motor.)

If on the other hand, the coolant was at the "min" line when the engine was at its normal operating temp, then, yes, you should add a 50-50 mix of Honda anti-freeze and distilled water.

Why Honda anti-freeze? Because cheaper brands of anti-freeze --you know, the stuff sold by K-Mart and PepBoys, to pick two retailers -- contain silicates as part of the mix. If you use them, eventually they will ruin the waterpump by eroding the impeller. The cheaper brands also combine with the aluminum in the block, eventually impeding coolant flow. (If you only plan to keep your EP a couple of years, it doesn't matter. Otherwise, I recommend you stick with Honda products.)

[BlasTech]

Oops

It was on Min when the engine was cold, maybe even less, its hard to see in there. I filled it up to the Max line with 50% water, 50% Celsius AF/C.

The Celsius jug lists ethyline glycol and diethyline glycol and water as its ingredients, and the label also says "anti-corrisive", "protects all metals including aluminum". No mention of silicates, but who knows.

Should I be flushing it out and replacing it?

[Mechanic]

Blas Tech,

The catch tank doesn't hold much -- maybe 12 oz., tops -- so your adding that little to the total amount in the system won't really matter.

As for what the container says, all of them are "compatible" with aluminum. They have to be; must radiators are aluminum these days. The question is how long are they "compatible." Honda's supplier (and I don't know who makes their anti-freeze) includes something (beats me what it is) that prevents the onset of electrolysis. You'll recall from your chem classes that two dissimilar metals placed in solution sets up an electrical field. Given time and heat, the molecules begin to transfer. Usually it's the aluminum that is eaten away and combines with the iron cylinder liners. That mess is then deposited somewhere in the cooling system.

Again, you can get away with this for several years unless you drive 20k or more. Then, at about the 60k mark, the car begins to run hot. Eventually it becomes a contant problem, and the head gasket gives up the ghost.

The problem is easily avoided. Just use Honda's anti-freeze and change it every three years or 36k. What's the difference in price? Honda's gallon is about $9.00; the others are about half that. The extra $5.00 seems well spent.

[BlasTech]

Thanks for the advice! My EJ Hatch is about ready for a flush/refill.

[sonic imperial]

I was checking fluid levels yesterday since my car had not been driven in 2 days and the coolant was bone dry in the reserve tank. I checked the radiator and it was at the top. I stopped at Honda this morning and they put some coolant in the tank for me to filled it up near the max line. They said they just put straight coolant in there, no mixing, and that it wouldn't hurt anything. I hope not.

[BlasTech]

Well, if they put it in at the dealership, the coolant they are using is most likely the Honda pre-mixed stuff.... its already 50/50. :)

[smapzy]

Thanx for all the good info!:D

I don't know is it just me or what... I'm having a hell of a time looking at the coolant tank! I mean it's very hard for a person to see the coolant level .... I really think they should put the tank somewhere near the top.

Oh well, maybe it's just me. :rolleyes:

[sonic imperial]

Yeah, they didn't make it too easy to see. But I know that you can see the line now as we were filling it up.

[todaCspec]

Originally posted by Mechanic


The problem is easily avoided. Just use Honda's anti-freeze and change it every three years or 36k. What's the difference in price? Honda's gallon is about $9.00; the others are about half that. The extra $5.00 seems well spent.


if you look on the underside of the hood, the sticker says don't change the coolant until 120,000 miles or 120 months (special long life coolant). there after every 60,000 miles.

i know on previous model cars, it was every 3 years or 36,000miles. what's up w/this sticker? is this info from Honda misleading?

[Mechanic]

Boy, is this an old thread . . . .

My earlier comment re changing antifreeze (AF) was based on ownership & maintenance of 12 Hondas/Acuras over twenty-some-odd years. But, TodaCSpec, you're right, the AF in the EPs is ultra-long life AF. Lucky us.

If you go to the Dupont webpage, you can find a discussion on this stuff. GOOD stuff. I'm guessing that Honda decided to go to ULLAF because owners were using inferior/discount products in their cars and then coming back to Honda years after the initial sale for warranty repairs. Also, the use of ULLAF is consistent with Honda's continuing efforts to eliminate or minimize the so-called "routine" maintenance requirements. (No more valve adjustments, 10k oil-change intervals, etc.) I'll go along with the so-called life-time anti-freeze, but I'm too old to change my habit of changing oil and filters at 3k.