Throttle cable adjustment from the *other* site

[Gearhead Geek]

Ok, so I did the DIY from that *other* website. First lemme say, it's a pretty poor write up. If you take a look in the service manual (page 11-163 I believe) it tells you how to do it much better.
My impressions? Well, so far it's the best free mod I've done, and I recommend everyone go do it. It's very very simple. Just loosen the locknut, slide the cable out of the bracket, then thread the lower nut down, and slide the cable back in to the bracket. You wanna basicly lower the lower nut all the way down, slide it in to make sure that it's holding the throttle open slightly. Then just thread it up a thread or two, so that when you put it in the bracket, it revs for a second then drops to normal. At this point, tighten the locknut back down nice and tight (the motor will prolly rev slightly as you tighten it), then get it, tap the gas once or twice and let the tach settle. Make sure it's still settles to where it used to idle, and enjoy a HELL of a lot more responsive throttle.

[ATRIOT]

Planning on doing this mod along with the TB Bypass tommorow. I checked out the slack and there's quite a bit in stock form tightening it up should help alot. Thanks for the added input.

[SubliminalSi]

yeah i did it not to long ago, its a nice little adjustment. Kinda scared me at first cuz it seemed to rev up so high when i tightened it, but its all good now

[Ty's Si]

Not to digress, but what does the TB bypass do for performance? How is the mod different over the stock configuration?

[Gearhead Geek]

the TB bypass simply reroutes the coolant (hot coolant) that flows through the throttle body, in an effort to keep the air comming in cooler. all you do is put a piece of copper pipe between the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body. it's not supposed to be a huge whp gain, 1 to 3 at absolute most, but, cooler air is better air :)
and on that note, i'm off to Home Depot to get some copper pipe, as I too am planing on doing it tomorrow :)

[ep3hatchattack]

That sounds like a good idea for the price. I will try it out as well.

[ATRIOT]

Originally posted by Gearhead Geek
the TB bypass simply reroutes the coolant (hot coolant) that flows through the throttle body, in an effort to keep the air comming in cooler. all you do is put a piece of copper pipe between the coolant hoses that run to the throttle body. it's not supposed to be a huge whp gain, 1 to 3 at absolute most, but, cooler air is better air :)
and on that note, i'm off to Home Depot to get some copper pipe, as I too am planing on doing it tomorrow :)

Bastards at home depot would only sell me copper tubing in a 15' roll. If any ephatchers need the 2" piece just pay for shipping and i'll mail it out to you.

[nozomi]

Originally posted by Gearhead Geek
Ok, so I did the DIY from that *other* website. First lemme say, it's a pretty poor write up. If you take a look in the service manual (page 11-163 I believe) it tells you how to do it much better.
My impressions? Well, so far it's the best free mod I've done, and I recommend everyone go do it. It's very very simple. Just loosen the locknut, slide the cable out of the bracket, then thread the lower nut down, and slide the cable back in to the bracket. You wanna basicly lower the lower nut all the way down, slide it in to make sure that it's holding the throttle open slightly. Then just thread it up a thread or two, so that when you put it in the bracket, it revs for a second then drops to normal. At this point, tighten the locknut back down nice and tight (the motor will prolly rev slightly as you tighten it), then get it, tap the gas once or twice and let the tach settle. Make sure it's still settles to where it used to idle, and enjoy a HELL of a lot more responsive throttle.

I guess i missed something here, but can you tell me what make adjusting the throttle cable can give a lot more responsive throttle?

[VividDreams]

what is this "other site" youre talking about?

nozomi, the point of this mod is to take away the factory set "slack" in the throttle cable. this is done at the factory in an effort to make the car less irratic, for normal drivers...i.e. "Joe Schmo"

any help? hope so

[fsugatorbait]

Originally posted by VividDreams
what is this "other site" youre talking about?



Other site = www.k-series.com

[Btrthnezr3]

Originally posted by ATRIOT
Bastards at home depot would only sell me copper tubing in a 15' roll. If any ephatchers need the 2" piece just pay for shipping and i'll mail it out to you.

How much do you think shipping would be Atriot?

[ATRIOT]

Hey guys i didnt really think this one out , for a 15' roll of copper 3/8ths tubing it costs a whopping $6 Canadian! (4.50 USD) :D Its probabley better if you guys just buy your own since shipping would probabley be $3 anyways. If your really hard up, and live in the middle of nowhere and dont have access to a Hardware store, i'll gladly ship you some out :m:

[Soon2beEP3]

Weapon-R is working on a throttle rotor for the k-series.

[AzN Si GuY]

I'm doing the throttle cable adjustment tommorow probably. Can someone tell me how much does the throttle response improve?

[VividDreams]

Originally posted by fsugatorbait
Other site = www.k-series.com

is there something wrong with kseries.com, or was that a joke?:(

[the JigGa mAn]

Originally posted by AzN Si GuY
I'm doing the throttle cable adjustment tommorow probably. Can someone tell me how much does the throttle response improve?


same thing here...ill prolly try it out 2morrow...just like to know what exactly it does...

[Gearhead Geek]

k, about the whole "other site" thing, only reason i stated it as such is that people over there tend to get mad when ephatch is mentioned, and every now and then people here seem to get touchy when k-series is mentioned. nothing against the site at all, just trying to keep flames to a minimum :)

now, for those of you who are wondering what the cable adjustment does exactly, takes all the slack out of the cable. stock specification for the cable is 10mm to 12mm of free play (as in, if you push down on it, it will move down 10mm to 12mm before it begins opening the throttle plate). by tightening up, the plate opens with much less effort on your gas pedal, because the slack in the cable is greatly decreased (mine after adjustment has about 2mm of free play now).

[fsugatorbait]

Originally posted by VividDreams
is there something wrong with kseries.com, or was that a joke?:(

People just take things between the two sites too seriously. Ephatch has its points as well as k-series; both are extremely well done. If you havent done so already, id recommend visiting k-series, its got alot of technical info and write ups that arent offered anywhere else.

[fsugatorbait]

Originally posted by Gearhead Geek
now, for those of you who are wondering what the cable adjustment does exactly, takes all the slack out of the cable. stock specification for the cable is 10mm to 12mm of free play (as in, if you push down on it, it will move down 10mm to 12mm before it begins opening the throttle plate). by tightening up, the plate opens with much less effort on your gas pedal, because the slack in the cable is greatly decreased (mine after adjustment has about 2mm of free play now).

By tightening the cable to near piano wire tension, wouldnt you think that the chances of it snapping would increase under WOT where there is more of a strain put on it? I just want to be sure before I do a mod that the possible advsere effects are worth the added benefits. Comments are welcome. :)

[Gearhead Geek]

Originally posted by fsugatorbait
By tightening the cable to near piano wire tension, wouldnt you think that the chances of it snapping would increase under WOT where there is more of a strain put on it? I just want to be sure before I do a mod that the possible advsere effects are worth the added benefits. Comments are welcome. :)

ya, i was somewhat worried about this before doing it. the initial adjustment i made was to back the nut all the way down, and this made the cable *way* too tight. i noticed the cable would stick a bit and the idle would sit a little higher. so i simply moved the nut up about two threads, and as i said this keeps it at about 2mm of free play in the cable. no higher idle, no throttle sticking, and the cable doesn't seem as if it's being "stretched" (for lack of a better term) while at WOT.

[Hatch02SI]

When I adjusted mine it'd idle at almost 2 so i loosened it up a bit and now its at 1.5 That was when it was cold... I know ur supposed to loosen it up to normal conditions, but it def. idles hella more rough when i adjusted it before... I need to try it again today.

[the JigGa mAn]

Originally posted by Gearhead Geek
Ok, so I did the DIY from that *other* website. First lemme say, it's a pretty poor write up. If you take a look in the service manual (page 11-163 I believe) it tells you how to do it much better.
My impressions? Well, so far it's the best free mod I've done, and I recommend everyone go do it. It's very very simple. Just loosen the locknut, slide the cable out of the bracket, then thread the lower nut down, and slide the cable back in to the bracket. You wanna basicly lower the lower nut all the way down, slide it in to make sure that it's holding the throttle open slightly. Then just thread it up a thread or two, so that when you put it in the bracket, it revs for a second then drops to normal. At this point, tighten the locknut back down nice and tight (the motor will prolly rev slightly as you tighten it), then get it, tap the gas once or twice and let the tach settle. Make sure it's still settles to where it used to idle, and enjoy a HELL of a lot more responsive throttle.

what is this bracket???

[AzN Si GuY]

I adjusted mine right now, it idled at 1.5 rpms and the idle would go up and down at times. but after driving for 15 minutes it idled where it used to. No problems. The throttle is a bit more repsonsive. I like it. :D

[eggsi]

i did this 3 days ago and i don't really notice a difference at all. I put the nut all the way down and i still had some slack,it wasn't very tight at all.

[Gearhead Geek]

Originally posted by eggsi
i did this 3 days ago and i don't really notice a difference at all. I put the nut all the way down and i still had some slack,it wasn't very tight at all.

did you move the nut all the way down, towards the throttle body, or did you move it in the other direction? if you move it in the other direction, it's gonna loosen it up. if the nut is all the way down, the cable should be damn near completely stiff (as I said in a previous post, there's about 2mm of slack with it 2 threads up from the bottom on mine). if you did infact move it towards the throttle body, and it's all the way down, and there's still lots of slack, then I would guess you have a faulty throttle cable, and you might wanna go to Honda if it's still under warranty and have it checked out.

[sai_iii]

Originally posted by fsugatorbait
By tightening the cable to near piano wire tension, wouldnt you think that the chances of it snapping would increase under WOT where there is more of a strain put on it? I just want to be sure before I do a mod that the possible advsere effects are worth the added benefits. Comments are welcome. :)
I am also worried about this, but i LOVE the increased responsiveness!

[FCobra94]

A few Mustang guys were doing the same thing on their cars, but instead they noticed they could pick up the slack another way, which was by putting a bunch of zip ties in a row to take the slack out of the throttle cable by way of the gas pedal.

I'm gonna crawl under there tomorrow and see if that might be an alternative for us...It might have absolutley nothing to do w/ the way ours are setup, but I figured I'd throw it up here anyway :o

[Black 02 SI]

i wouldn't mind if my car idled at 1k. it would take away the vibration from the motor mounts. lol.

[eggsi]

Originally posted by Gearhead Geek
did you move the nut all the way down, towards the throttle body, or did you move it in the other direction? if you move it in the other direction, it's gonna loosen it up. if the nut is all the way down, the cable should be damn near completely stiff (as I said in a previous post, there's about 2mm of slack with it 2 threads up from the bottom on mine). if you did infact move it towards the throttle body, and it's all the way down, and there's still lots of slack, then I would guess you have a faulty throttle cable, and you might wanna go to Honda if it's still under warranty and have it checked out.
i moved it all the way down and it doesn't really seem any different. i will go and check it again, but im out of warranty so i guess im SOL