Engine Moutnts

[Nadal328]

Whats up guys, i was changing my clutch yesterday and i found out that my front and rear torque mounts are totally shot. i need to know where i can get some nice strong mounts. let me know ......

Thanks

[plpong893]

too much racing! how did the clutch go? i wonder if u can just do inserts and be ok

[esmith13]

If the rubber in the mount is torn but still all there you can just do the $20 mount inserts.

That's what I did.

My front mount was MAULED. ;)

Eric

[siver-SI]

I know Mugen makes a set. If I remember right http://www.kingmotorsports.com has them.

[Nadal328]

yeh, the rubber in the mount is ripped to shit, every shift u can feel the engine move hard, if i drive normal its fine but it still sucks.Id rather go with the full mount rather then just the insert, so that i dont have to worry bout that ne more

[Peking]

Originally posted by Nadal328
yeh, the rubber in the mount is ripped to shit, every shift u can feel the engine move hard, if i drive normal its fine but it still sucks.Id rather go with the full mount rather then just the insert, so that i dont have to worry bout that ne more

You sure, the inserts seem to work wonders and are meant to sub the torn OEM mount. And moved to engine :) Give um a try, for less then $30

[esmith13]

Yeah, they are MEANT to repair torn mounts. and they make them ALOT more solid.

The mugen mounts will be boku $$$$.


Can't tell me $20 isn't worth a shot... And you get rid of wheel hop at the same time...


Eric

[siver-SI]

Originally posted by Nadal328
yeh, the rubber in the mount is ripped to shit, every shift u can feel the engine move hard, if i drive normal its fine but it still sucks.Id rather go with the full mount rather then just the insert, so that i dont have to worry bout that ne more

Then Mugen would be the way to go. The only bad thing is that they cost I think around $180 I heard. I fogot what the price was when we were talking to guy with the Mugen EP this weekend. Just e-mail king and he can give you the right price. At least it can not hurt to ask.

[dc5-K20A3]

for the money, the Energy Suspension MM inserts work really well. They repair the torn mounts by making the whole front and rear mounts solid pieces. You should get them rather than replacing the OEMs with Mugen mounts

[oogy-boogy]

Originally posted by esmith13
Yeah, they are MEANT to repair torn mounts. and they make them ALOT more solid.

The mugen mounts will be boku $$$$.


Can't tell me $20 isn't worth a shot... And you get rid of wheel hop at the same time...


Eric

Just like Eric Stated....

Why spend over $180.00 if you can do the same with the ES's for $20.00?

I absolutely love my inserts :)

[RiCeCoOkEr1280]

I still have to insert mine... they've been sitting in my room for the longest... i'm so damn lazy.... :p :D

[oogy-boogy]

Originally posted by RiCeCoOkEr1280
I still have to insert mine... they've been sitting in my room for the longest... i'm so damn lazy.... :p :D

Drive your butt over to MA and I'll hook you up Paul. :D :p

[RiCeCoOkEr1280]

How 'bout I just get your happy ass a ticket to cali? :D

[oogy-boogy]

Originally posted by RiCeCoOkEr1280
How 'bout I just get your happy ass a ticket to cali? :D

Deal! lol...:cool:

[plpong893]

mine are not on yet either haha

[SychoSly]

Where do you buy the motor mount inserts? I searched for the site, and found a link to: http://www.lightningmotorsports.com/ene_honda.html , but I can't find the mounts for our cars. Any other sites that sell them, or am I just missing it.

Thanks.

[plpong893]

its the inserts for the rsx type s! they will work it is what everyone else has

[esmith13]

you have to order the RSX inserts. I believe the number was 16.1110


Eric

[Siman]

How long in total does it take to complete the motor mount insert task?

what tools do i need to do it? Do i need and engine hoist?:confused:

[Siman]

never mind LOL

http://www.k-series.com/tech_detail.php?Tech_ID=EP3_ES_MOUNTS :angel:

[andy]

Siman,

There's a better way to do it (drop the subframe).
If I had to do it again, I could do it in maybe 1-2hours.

I want/need to do a write up with pics, but the place I'm living
doesn't have broadband and I can't exactly do it from work. I might
get around to it this weekend.

[esmith13]

subframe dropping requires alot less mechanical knowledge and alot less muscle. 1-2hrs this way and no prying the engine with a crowbar. You do not need an engine lift at all. Having a friend around is recommended but not 100% necessary.

Eric

[RiCeCoOkEr1280]

Can someone PLEASE do a write-upon the subfame method? I'd feel more comfortable doing this as opposed to rockin the engine w/ a crowbar.

[esmith13]

There's nothing to write up!!

Get ahold of the service manual and look at the page about removing the subframe. That's it, your done!

The rear mount is bolted to the subframe, so when you drop the frame you simply slide the inserts on the mount. The front one is bolted to the engine, but is fully exposed at that point so you just reach up and slide on the inserts. Put the sub frame back up there and your done!!


Eric

[RiCeCoOkEr1280]

sounds simple enough and less complicated... thanks eric

[esmith13]

your quite welcome :D

Eric

[oogy-boogy]

I've done the rocking method and have it down to ~ 2 hours. I'll be doing a few more next week and trying the sub frame drop ;):)

[andy]

<sigh> Eric is right...there's not much to it. I was still gonna do
a decent write up with pics, but here goes:

Look behind the engine. You'll see a big bolt going through the
top of the rear mount. It's either 17 or 19mm (I want to say 19).
Remove that first.

Jack up the car and get under it. You'll want to use jack stands on
the sides.

You'll need to remove 6 bolts from the subrame - two 19mm, two 17mm
and maybe two 15mm (if not, two more 17mm). You should be able to
see them fairly easily/quickly once you are under there. The two
in the front are sort of hidden under some of the plastic underbody
pieces, but you'll see them. Look near the front tow hook if you're
having trouble. I think most of the bolts have yellow paint on them.

You might also want to loosen the front sway bar - you'll need a
12mm (???) and an allen wrench for that. Doing it this way allows
you to remove all the subframe bolts (and the mount bolts), but you
don't really have to hold the subframe up while you are down there.
It's not that heavy, but makes it easier.

Take out the rest of the bolts in the mounts. IIRC, it's two or
three in the front, and 4 in the back. I think these are all 17mm,
but again, I could be wrong.
Once those are out, you just slide the inserts in. Here's where you
sort of need a friend.
Bolt the subrame back in while not knocking the inserts back out (I
did this a few times) - you need to bolt the subframe completely
back up (the 6 bolts that go into it) so that you can get all of your
mount bolts back in.
Once the subrame is up (don't tighten it all the way just yet), have
a friend put the upper bolt in the rear mount in from up top. That
one was a b!tch. Once that's done, the rest of the bolt holes should
line up.
With the mounts in, it's a tighter fit and harder to line up. Hence
having a friend help can save some time.

I suggest getting all bolts in and hand tightening, then going through
and torquing down one at a time, in an front-to-back/side-to-side
pattern if you can/remember.

I have done it this way by myself (our first attempt at the mounts
at US_Si's house worked, but I forgot to put a mount bolt back
in - oops!), so it can be done with one person.

Hope that helps, if I can get some pics up and better descriptions/double
check the size of the wrenches/tools you'll need, I can.

BTW, expect noticeable vibration at idle and with A/C one once these
are in. This is normal. It'll take a week or two for it to die down.
Now, I don't really notice it, except once in a while at idle or
shifting into first and slowly letting out the clutch.