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View Full Version : Tips on waxing your car. Want that sema show car shine?



Soichiro-Honda
04-17-2004, 09:22 PM
For new cars and fresh paint jobs.

You can never duplicate the speed of DA polisher (DA-Dual Action) by hand.
A DA poilisher helps you use less wax, and also takes it off easier. Overall giving you a better, faster wax job.

The heat the DA polisher generates, is what you want. Something your hand never generates.

A proper detail must go like this.

Wash -> Cleaner Wax -> Polish -> Clear coat Wax (Gold class for example)

Use foam pads -1 for each wax and polish that are reversable.



Dont do this: Wax, wash or polish your car in the sun, buff over door seem, trunk or any crevaces. Once wax gets in there and dries your gonna have a hard time getting it out. Note: (Hand wax your bumpers)

When you are done waxing and polishing with your foam pads DO NOT wash them, wipe them off with a towel and flip them over to the clean side to buff off. Mark them in zip lock bag with the wax you used on them.

Wait 20 minutes for your wax to dry.


1. Note : The more wax is not more shine it just means more work to buff off. Wax 1 once a month.

2. Use wheel cleaner on your wheels when they are cold. Cool them off with hose water before spraying, or you will damage the finish on your wheels.

Wait 2 month berfore waxing NEW paint jobs or cars from the body shop or dealer. You can polish a new paint job but not wax it because the paint hasen't cured (set in).

Follow all these rules and you will get no swurl marks : This guide is from is from Barry Meguiar him self, of Meguiars car care products.

Thanks for reading.

AkronSi
04-20-2004, 08:17 AM
Originally posted by Soichiro-Honda

Wash -> Cleaner Wax -> Polish -> Clear coat Wax (Gold class for example)


Polishes tend to have more abrasives than cleaner waxes so I'd switch those two steps.



Wait 20 minutes for your wax to dry.


This doesn't apply to all waxes/sealents. Some, like P21s/S100 and Pinnacle should not be allowed to haze (wipe on-wipe off). Some like Klasse and Zaino can be left on longer (as in hours). MOST of Meg's waxes definately like the 15-20 minute rule.



Wait 2 month berfore waxing NEW paint jobs or cars from the body shop or dealer. You can polish a new paint job but not wax it because the paint hasen't cured (set in).

Unless the dealer had your car repainted, the paint will be fully cured when you pick it up. Why would dealers wax cars before pick-up if the paint wasn't cured and couldn't be waxed?

dtexan
04-20-2004, 08:29 AM
From what I understand you want to use a cleaner wax 1st to remove oxidation and surface contaminents then polish. The polish is supposed to smooth out the paint and bring out the shine. The last step is waxing to seal in the shine and protect the paint. On the new car waxing he said new paint jobs not new cars. Most new cars have already set for 2 months before they are sold.

AkronSi
04-20-2004, 12:19 PM
Originally posted by Soichiro-Honda
Wait 2 month berfore waxing NEW paint jobs or cars from the body shop or dealer.

:D

Sorry, just couldn't resist that one.


A polish should remove any surface contamination ALONG with paint defects.....while a cleaner wax will really only affect the contamination. For that reason, I personally prefer to polish before I use a paint cleaner. To me it makes more sense. I also like that oreder because the paint cleaner will remove any fillers from your polish to reveal the "true" finish of your paint.

And, at the very least, I'll also clay the paint in the spring to get all of the crap from winter off the paint. I'll do that before any sort of polishing or cleaning (but after washing).

Soichiro-Honda
04-20-2004, 04:42 PM
Originally posted by AkronSi
1. Polishes tend to have more abrasives than cleaner waxes so I'd switch those two steps.


2. This doesn't apply to all waxes/sealents. Some, like P21s/S100 and Pinnacle should not be allowed to haze (wipe on-wipe off). Some like Klasse and Zaino can be left on longer (as in hours). MOST of Meg's waxes definately like the 15-20 minute rule.



3. Unless the dealer had your car repainted, the paint will be fully cured when you pick it up. Why would dealers wax cars before pick-up if the paint wasn't cured and couldn't be waxed?




1. Don't challenge the posted advice , a polish is not a cleaner, its a polisher. It goes in order as posted in the first post.


2. At the end of my tutorial : ''From barry Meguiar'' this is for his products.

3. New cars are waxed from the dealer.

Soichiro-Honda
04-20-2004, 04:43 PM
Originally posted by dtexan
From what I understand you want to use a cleaner wax 1st to remove oxidation and surface contaminents then polish. The polish is supposed to smooth out the paint and bring out the shine. The last step is waxing to seal in the shine and protect the paint. On the new car waxing he said new paint jobs not new cars. Most new cars have already set for 2 months before they are sold.

You understood it well :D

AkronSi
04-21-2004, 10:14 AM
I'm just saying that it makes sense to use a dedicated cleaner or polish instead of a cleaner wax before you polish if you are doing a multi-step routine. If you are going to take the time to do 4 or more steps (Meg's suggests 5 steps (http://www.meguiars.com/faq/_index.cfm?faqCat=Paint%20Care&faqQuestionID=51&section=_51#_51)) then use something better suited to removing contamination than a cleaner wax.

If you even looks at Meguiar's online store under Cleaning and Scratch Removal, they don't list any cleaner waxes. They list all of the cleaner waxes under the Wax & Protective coatings category. The same thing with their professonal store. They look at their cleaner wax as a final step product.

I think it's also an issue of semantics. The way that Meguiar's uses the words "cleaner" and "polish" is different than I use them. But, I guess that's just part of life and the car care business. For example, Mother's views a polish as something that removes contamination (cleans) and scratches (polishes) from the car surface (not as seperate products).

Soichiro-Honda
04-21-2004, 03:41 PM
Originally posted by AkronSi
1 . I'm just saying that it makes sense to use a dedicated cleaner or polish instead of a cleaner wax before you polish if you are doing a multi-step routine. If you are going to take the time to do 4 or more steps (use something better suited to removing contamination than a cleaner wax.)

2 [B]If you even looks at Meguiar's online store under Cleaning and Scratch Removal, they don't list any cleaner waxes. They list all of the cleaner waxes under the Wax & Protective coatings category. The same thing with their professonal store. They look at their cleaner wax as a final step product.[B]

3. I think it's also an issue of semantics. The way that Meguiar's uses the words "cleaner" and "polish" is different than I use them. But, I guess that's just part of life and the car care business. For example, Mother's views a polish as something that removes contamination (cleans) and scratches (polishes) from the car surface (not as seperate products).


1. Excuse me, I bought the meguiars detailing video and I just left out the maintaining step because I don't want to go over it... So its just 4.

2. Your wrong meguiar has paint cleaners And they list it under : Proffesional autmotive and appearance care Paint Cleaners/ Componds.
http://www.meguiars.com/store_meguiars/product_list.cfm?store=pro&line=proauto&catagory=2&subcatagory=1 and its not there final step, stop challenging me.

As listed on there site : Washing -> Prep Cleaning (Which is paint cleaner) -> Pure Polishing -> Protecting (clear coat wax)
-> Maintaining
http://www.meguiars.com/faq/Image9.jpg

3. Mothers goes by the same rule.

AkronSi
04-29-2004, 08:00 AM
Yep, you're right. Silly me. What was I thinking?

I must be dyslexic. When I read Mother's site, I could have sworn it said: Polish, Clean & Smooth the Surface. Oh wait, that's right. It does say that. Thereby implying that polishing comes before cleaning (within their product range).

So like I said in my previous post. Everyone is different. You must have just been too ticked off that someone wrote something contradicting what you just watched on some video that you paid for!

Also, if you would have actually read my post, I said it was an issue of semantics. If you look at the product descriptions of Meg's Paint Cleaning products, they are very abrasive. They can remove sanding marks in your paint. To do that you have to remove paint. Which, IMHO, is polishing. Either way, a cleaner wax won't remove much of any paint (hence the placement as a last step product). You're original post said specifically "cleaner wax." And, my initial post said that I thought it made more sense to use a more aggressive product before a cleaner wax.

I also never said that Meguiar's didn't sell dedicated paint cleaners. I said that it would make more sense to use a dedicated cleaner instead of a cleaner wax as your first step. (You can read can't you?)

And, to illustrate my point, I reffered to Mequiar's listing their cleaner waxes as a final step product in their online stores. Trust me when I say I'm very familiar with the Meguair's product line.

Soichiro-Honda
04-29-2004, 08:36 AM
:mad: ?? whats up with you, best result use the product as told.

END OF STORY

Chinaboy
05-09-2004, 03:26 AM
first of all Soichiro-Honda... calm the hell down noob, why you gotta be giving attitude to people on the forum, we all juss chatting here... and uhhh im sorry but it seems to me that all you have done is watched a video and tried to tell everyone that you are a pro detailer... but... im sorry... anyone who post....

Wash -> Cleaner Wax -> Polish -> Clear coat Wax (Gold class for example)

is not a pro detailer, NOR done any reading at all...

A PROPER cleaning/detailing of the car goes like this and... AUTOPIA is right, and AkronSi and I are right... YOU are wrong.. so unless YOU want swirls on your paint... or going shooting your paintjob to hell... listen up and don't be a jerk

Step one...

1.WASH ( dawn detergent )
2.CLAY BAR
3.USE DEDICATED POLISH
4.WAX/ SEAL WHAT HAVE YOU...

and the steps are simple guy, because you clean with the wash with dawns to clean the base of the paint... you clay bar to remove contaiminates to be SMOOTH as possible... TWO use dedicated polish to remove certain imperfections and oxidation... THEN you proceed to wax to seal it or use some other ones like Klasse or another sealent.

You wash... then use cleaner wax is the NORMAL joe going about its business... on a OLD CAR.. cleaner wax is a one step for the average guy juss waxing his car once a blue moon kinda deal... and that is it

TO wax then use polish is idiotic, you'd stripp the wax and create a uneven surface and then you'd be shooting your paint to hell.

paint prep is not cleaner wax btw... lol

this thread is so amusing... i love people when they open fire on something that they seem to have an idea of... but really, have no idea

Soichiro-Honda
05-09-2004, 12:03 PM
Bringing up threads from the dead, WHO ARE YOU?

You don't know know me, or how long I've been detailing..

You don't use dishwashing detergent first of all.

And I don't want to deal with misleading idiots like you.

I'm no longer going to reply.

What an idiot, this thread is like 2/3 weeks old.

Chinaboy
05-09-2004, 02:17 PM
this thread still relivant in helping other people on the forum, and im sorry, but... i don't want others to be misled.. so i decided to say something. And yes, I don't know who you are, and how long you been detailing.. but, *haha* from what you post and what you say, it don't seem like you know much...

there is a saying...

its better to be thought of as an fool, than to speak and remove all doubt...

I leave it as that.

HAHAHAHAH

AkronSi
05-14-2004, 08:48 AM
Originally posted by Chinaboy
first of all Soichiro-Honda... calm the hell down noob, why you gotta be giving attitude to people on the forum, we all juss chatting here... and uhhh im sorry but it seems to me that all you have done is watched a video and tried to tell everyone that you are a pro detailer... but... im sorry... anyone who post....

Wash -> Cleaner Wax -> Polish -> Clear coat Wax (Gold class for example)

is not a pro detailer, NOR done any reading at all...

A PROPER cleaning/detailing of the car goes like this and... AUTOPIA is right, and AkronSi and I are right... YOU are wrong.. so unless YOU want swirls on your paint... or going shooting your paintjob to hell... listen up and don't be a jerk

Step one...

1.WASH ( dawn detergent )
2.CLAY BAR
3.USE DEDICATED POLISH
4.WAX/ SEAL WHAT HAVE YOU...

and the steps are simple guy, because you clean with the wash with dawns to clean the base of the paint... you clay bar to remove contaiminates to be SMOOTH as possible... TWO use dedicated polish to remove certain imperfections and oxidation... THEN you proceed to wax to seal it or use some other ones like Klasse or another sealent.

You wash... then use cleaner wax is the NORMAL joe going about its business... on a OLD CAR.. cleaner wax is a one step for the average guy juss waxing his car once a blue moon kinda deal... and that is it

TO wax then use polish is idiotic, you'd stripp the wax and create a uneven surface and then you'd be shooting your paint to hell.

paint prep is not cleaner wax btw... lol

this thread is so amusing... i love people when they open fire on something that they seem to have an idea of... but really, have no idea

Yep, exactly what he said!

downhil
05-22-2004, 08:17 AM
Originally posted by Soichiro-Honda
Bringing up threads from the dead, WHO ARE YOU?

You don't know know me, or how long I've been detailing..

You don't use dishwashing detergent first of all.

And I don't want to deal with misleading idiots like you.

I'm no longer going to reply.

What an idiot, this thread is like 2/3 weeks old.


http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDAzMjYwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

Si Death
05-25-2004, 03:51 PM
alright so what is a good cleaner wax to get??? also what is a good polisher to get??? i have gold class already so yeah. Thanx for the informative post, ive been washing my car the wrong way for a while now, this is a good guide to follow :)

Chinaboy
05-25-2004, 09:42 PM
if you are gonna use your gold class... get a dedicated polish only, then you are all done... you won't need cleaner wax

get P21S from autopia-carcare.com

Soon2beEP3
07-17-2004, 05:39 PM
I have Meguiars gold class. Yesterday, I bought Meguiars show car glaze #7. Is this even polish? I'm about to detail my car now after 9 months. Besides cleaning supplies I have: Mothers clay bar - Meguiars show car glaze - Meguiars gold class wax. Am I good to go?

Also, I will be doing this with a buffer from autozone. Any do's or don'ts for using this?

Chinaboy
07-17-2004, 06:57 PM
I have Meguiars gold class. Yesterday, I bought Meguiars show car glaze #7. Is this even polish? I'm about to detail my car now after 9 months. Besides cleaning supplies I have: Mothers clay bar - Meguiars show car glaze - Meguiars gold class wax. Am I good to go?

Also, I will be doing this with a buffer from autozone. Any do's or don'ts for using this?


glaze is not polish do not be confused. glaze is simply makeup for the car, its a final prep that leaves a more moist coat for a shine, then you slap the wax to seal it in.

If your car is not scratched up or anything, I would consider you to do this...

Wash with DAWN
Claybar the car
Show glaze #7
Gold Class

IF you use a buffer... get a wool or a fluffy bonnet for the glaze... then get a terry bonnet for the gold class wax. The buffers off the shelf are not hazardous to noobs... so there is no precautionary or do or don't with a buffer from pepboys or any area... simply because it is not buffing fast enough to harm or burn paint. It is simply a lazy boys waxing machine.

Soon2beEP3
07-18-2004, 10:33 AM
I want to get the swirl marks out, more than I want to get the few deep scratches I have out. Hate those damn swirl marks!
Thanx.

Chinaboy
07-18-2004, 02:22 PM
if you got HEAVY swirls, you might need to take it to a professional detailer, only he can do it... higherspeed buffers can take out swirls easy

Soon2beEP3
07-18-2004, 05:42 PM
Ok, I got it done. I used the claybar first - then I go to use the glaze on my hood, I think I left it on too long b/c it was a bitch to get off. After that I just went ahead and waxed the hood to see how things were gonna turn out. It went alot smoother than the glaze process. So I just went ahead and waxed the rest of the car and skipped glazing. I was suprised to see a large majority of the scratches and swirl marks were gone.
At least now I have more experience using this buffer thingy, so next time I can polish and then wax.

Chinaboy
07-18-2004, 09:31 PM
the glaze is to be used panel by panel... you put it on, and then you take it off right away after you finish the panel... otherwise.... it would be too sticky

Bc CiVicTyPe-R
07-20-2004, 01:08 PM
http://www.we-todd-did-racing.com/wetoddimage.wtdr/wNDAzMjYwNnM0MTNkZmQzMXk1NDE%3D.jpg

Lmao, Hah That Brightened up My Day where did u get that pic man!?!(no Thread Stealing Intended) :D

jdmrace1
04-27-2008, 10:58 PM
thx 4 the ideas

SPAM&RICE
04-28-2008, 02:53 PM
thx 4 the ideas

:mrolleyes:theres prolly new ideas by now its 2008. you on a 4 year old thread man.