Best EP mod for $500-$600??

[sassaphras]

Hey guys i just got my hands on some cash and i wanna know what EP mod i should invest in. Heres what i got already:

AEM SRI
DC Ceramic Header
Greddy Evo2
16" Black Slipstreams
Tein S Tech Springs

The two things im thinkin about getting:

OEM C/F Hood
Viper/Compustar(?) Alarm system

im open to all suggestions, thx and peace out

[02SilverSiHB]

get hondata

[dj addicted]

Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
get hondata


yup.. skip the hood because that wont make you go faster.. I could understand the alarm though.. I need to get one of those as well

[sassaphras]

sweet thx for the quick suggestions...

hondata is really tempting but i dont want to be stuck without a car for 2 weeks or howevr long it takes...

thx

[andy]

Hondata only takes ~2 days of downtime (you ship out on an afternoon, it arrives there the next day, they reflash and ship it out the same day, gets back to you on the 3rd day) and it's well worth it. Makes
daily driving much more enjoyable.

[Civicvtec1ps]

Sell Dc ceremic header and Pre order DC racer header.
o2 sim.
Grounding Wires
Hondata IMG.
Shifter bushings.
Neuspeed ss.

[k20hatch]

Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB
get hondata

That about says it all!

[Mighty_Mouse]

Hondata takes two days. Do you want go, or do you want show? Do the right thing.

[siver-SI]

An alarm is a good idea. And it can save soom good cash on your insurance too.

[AzN Si GuY]

Even though I don't have it, I suggest Hondata, bro. Heard nothing but good things about it. :cool:

[redronin22]

GET HONDATA, nough said

[Ep3 No.2]

unanamous (i highly doubt thats how you spell it) but yes hondata is the best bang for the buck if you already got your basic bolt ons.

[Jaypee]

what does Hondata do exactly?

[aRz]

http://www.hondata.com/k20a3civicsirelease.html
enjoy.:D

This program is specifically tuned for the USDM Civic Si K20A3.

K20A3-Si ECU flash program 7700 rpm REV limit - $595
The K20A3-Si program advances the ignition, alters the cam timing and optimizes the fuel for a cold air intake, adding 4-9 ft lb across the rev range.

* Nitrous and boosted applications are not compatible with the Hondata ecu reflash. Use them at your own risk.

[BarracksSi]

Already got intake & header, time to add Hondata ECU reflash.

Either that, or an alarm.

Sound good? :)

[!@#$%]

When I plugged in the hondata ecu my exhaust took a different tone. It still sounds kind of raw, but with a very controlled pitch. It's hard to explain, but from 57-65 and 80-90 acceleration is greatly improved. Well worth it. Good product.

Hondata.

[oogy-boogy]

For peace of mind I'd get the alarm first. Hit up E-Bay and talk to one of your local installers to do it on the side. :D

If you want to keep putting $$ into the EP without worrying about theft prevention get the reflash (I love mine :)).

[Low Rider]

From your list of mods I would say that you need a good rear sway bar. The EP handles like a pig without one... ;)

[Makross]

Hondata No doubt about it

[oogy-boogy]

Originally posted by Makross
Hondata No doubt about it

A little OT here: But, you have my vote for the best avatar you've ever had. Uma is da poop! :D

[HondataEP3]

Just go for it and get Hondata...

[cj miller]

hondata or alarm. im also going to make this desicion soon. choose wisely

[ranivus]

Well if youre thinking of an engineswap in the future.... i'd jet wait or if you really need something now, get a High-flow catalytic converter. I've heard good things about random technologies High-flow cat on www.optionsauto.com

[2pointslowEP3]

get hondata so you can finally justify having i/h/e!

[sd_ep3]

hondata!!!

[Makross]

Originally posted by oogy-boogy
A little OT here: But, you have my vote for the best avatar you've ever had. Uma is da poop! :D

;) Uma can fuck shiet up!

[SpoonEP3]

looks, power, or handle....


with your mods what i would do is the following:
hondata intake manifold gasket $60
rsx 19mm rear sway bar $40
front and rear strut bar Neuspeed $250
c/f ctr style wing $250

save up for:
k20a2 head swap with a2 E.C.U. (labor included) $1500-$2000
or for the cheaper options
hondata reflash $575 like me and type-s valve springs $75, 100% full c/f front canards for front down force $100, $250 for ebc greenstuff pads and surface all rotors.... Total $1000

the second option is what i did and i love it

[denmah]

Originally posted by aRz
http://www.hondata.com/k20a3civicsirelease.html
enjoy.:D

This program is specifically tuned for the USDM Civic Si K20A3.

K20A3-Si ECU flash program 7700 rpm REV limit - $595
The K20A3-Si program advances the ignition, alters the cam timing and optimizes the fuel for a cold air intake, adding 4-9 ft lb across the rev range.

* Nitrous and boosted applications are not compatible with the Hondata ecu reflash. Use them at your own risk.

i ran on a dyno with the hondata reflash and my jrsc... lol.
incompatability is a harsh word, you can drive around all day so long as you stay under 7k once you pass 7k your injectors max out with the powercard running them open from the boost.

and you will hear detonation, you can however drive around all you want at WOT, just keep her under 7k lol.

look at this way, hondata took me from a 15.7 to a 15.0

think about that one for a while.

[denmah]

Originally posted by SpoonEP3
looks, power, or handle....


with your mods what i would do is the following:
hondata intake manifold gasket $60
rsx 19mm rear sway bar $40
front and rear strut bar Neuspeed $250
c/f ctr style wing $250

save up for:
k20a2 head swap with a2 E.C.U. (labor included) $1500-$2000
or for the cheaper options
hondata reflash $575 like me and type-s valve springs $75, 100% full c/f front canards for front down force $100, $250 for ebc greenstuff pads and surface all rotors.... Total $1000

the second option is what i did and i love it

how was your valvespring install? or did you have someone else do it?

im looking to upgrade my valves when i get the kpro because i want to run boost out to 7500 or 7700.

[civic hatch boi]

Originally posted by denmah
i ran on a dyno with the hondata reflash and my jrsc... lol.
incompatability is a harsh word, you can drive around all day so long as you stay under 7k once you pass 7k your injectors max out with the powercard running them open from the boost.

and you will hear detonation, you can however drive around all you want at WOT, just keep her under 7k lol.

look at this way, hondata took me from a 15.7 to a 15.0

think about that one for a while.

when u say hondata took u from 15.7 to 15.0... this was both jrsc? or tell us wut mods u had at 15.7 then wut mods u had at 15.0 thanks..

[02SilverSiHB]

Originally posted by civic hatch boi
when u say hondata took u from 15.7 to 15.0... this was both jrsc? or tell us wut mods u had at 15.7 then wut mods u had at 15.0 thanks..
he was na when he hit both the 15.7 and 15.0...if he hits only a 15.0...houston, we have a problem

[civic hatch boi]

so he's saying he ran 0.7s faster JUST cuz of hondata? um i dont think so. not saying u didnt' run those times. im just saying other factors prob caused u to get faster....

such as:
when u ran 15.7 u prob
-launched horribly
-krap tires
-bad weather
etc

then for ur 15.0
-nice cool weather
-better launch
-learned to drive

i dont think its possible for hondata ALONE to get 0.7s with same conditions.

[denmah]

i ran with a drop and an intake. and pulled a 2.2 60ft and ran a 15.7
then i ran with the hondata and motor mounts still a 2.2 60ft and a 15.0 weather was much colder when i ran a 15.7 was about 60 degrees.

when i ran the 15.0 it was about 84f

after that i made 2 more 15.1's and another 15.0

i posted them when i ran i still have it if you want to see it.

4th gear just murders our cars at the track i even did an experiment i ran 1st 2nd out to 8k and then shifted into 4th at 6800 at the track and ran a 15.4

next run stayed in 3rd till i went thru the lights 15.0

it doesnt look like hondata is working on a dyno, but damn real life it really is no joke.

i cant wait to wing my SC out to 7700 ill see some killer 1/4mile times.

[denmah]

and im running in the mountians of the poconos in PA with stock rubber. i would see better times in lover elevation.

hopefully i can get a set of 16s and some 215s under there.

[BarracksSi]

Originally posted by denmah
4th gear just murders our cars at the track i even did an experiment i ran 1st 2nd out to 8k and then shifted into 4th at 6800 at the track and ran a 15.4

next run stayed in 3rd till i went thru the lights 15.0


I'm guessing that the bigger difference was being able to stay in 3rd all the way through the lights thanks to the higher redline. Having to stop giving power to acceleration in order to shift into 4th will undoubtedly give a longer 1/4 time.