Installation help!! ES motor mounts

[EP3racer]

So yeah... last wednesday I tried to install my es motor mounts. After 4 hrs. I got the rear one on but didn't have time to do the front. So today (Wednesday) a week later I tried to the the front one. Took off all the 4 bolts, go the motor mount free but couldn't get it out to put the polyurentane in. Tried for about 1 hr with crowbar and jack and all of that, but didn't manage to get it done. So we just put everythign back togher and call it a day.

Anyone got a trick that can help me??

Thanks in advance

[KimchiBoy_TypeR]

If you disconnect the cat and take off the splash guard you well get tons of room. I also had a hard time getting the front of the frame to drop so I could slide the inserts in. What I did to hold it in place was use the stock jack between the frame and body to hold it in place. Even after that it was a complete bitch getting those suckers in!!!! I greased the hell out of the inserts and used a crowbar to move the brackett that's going to hold the inserts left to right to make enough room to slide them in. The hardest part of the istall was deffinately doing the front. I also reccomend using 4 jackstands instead of 2 (like I did) So the bolts will line up evenly. Getting the bolts to line up evenly was the second hardest part for me. Good luck man and don't give up!!!!;)

[brian1g]

did you guys drop the subframe?

[cpu519]

Taking off the subframe is an extreme move. The rear is relatively easy as you've found. Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder to gain some working room for the front mount. You'll then be able to get the inserts in.

[oogy-boogy]

Just drop the subframe. It makes the install a breeze....trust me after doing it both ways and ~7 installs. It isn't difficult. Remove the splash guard up front/wheel wells, 4 bolts for the sub frame and 1 bolt for a coolant hose on the frame. Then the 1 bolt for the front mount, 3 holding the rear on and one going through it. Use some lube and a buddy to get them back in....it's actually very easy. I had a harder time with my rear sway bar....lol.

2 1/2 hours tops for the total install first time with the subframe drop. I'd imagine I can probably do it in an hour to 1 1/2 tops now.

[SSMep3]

i agree with mel DROP the subframe it is muuuch easier.......oh and dont forget to get some loctite for those bolts. Also after doing them and driving for a short amount of miles u should retorque the bolts for the subframe and the mounts

[cpu519]

You're right, dropping the subframe is easier, but the suspension alignment can be affected because it's hard to get the subframe back into the exact same position - even with reference marks. I used reference marks when I reinstalled my subframe after my engine swap. But when I had my suspension aligned, the subframe positioning was checked and found to be off. I had them square the subframe first then align all four wheels. The subframe can be off center, or the diagonal measurements from the left front-right rear and right-front and left-rear can be unequal.

[oogy-boogy]

Originally posted by cpu519
You're right, dropping the subframe is easier, but the suspension alignment can be affected because it's hard to get the subframe back into the exact same position - even with reference marks. I used reference marks when I reinstalled my subframe after my engine swap. But when I had my suspension aligned, the subframe positioning was checked and found to be off. I had them square the subframe first then align all four wheels. The subframe can be off center, or the diagonal measurements from the left front-right rear and right-front and left-rear can be unequal.

Good point.

[cpu519]

I didn't feel anything before I had my subframe aligned, but here's what can happen. If it's not centered the car may dog track slightly, maybe not noticibly. If it's not diagonally aligned, then the caster may be different on each front wheel causing a slight pull to one side.

[SSMep3]

hmm i wonder if thats whats goin on with my ep it pulls to one side all the time. Never did that after my spring install but now that you mention that its a very good point. Started happening after my MM install:mad:

[oldskool]

for the front install i found the easiest way was unbolting the downpipe and i loosened the motor mounts on the top and i used a 3foot prybar and the mount fell out. when putting it back in i had a friend rock the motor back and i put some silicon spray on the inserts which made the mount slide in like butta. it took me less than an hour to do the front.

[hyonkiyoo]

do you have a tranny jack, it made a world of a difference when i did it. then crowbar it back and it will go in.