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myeverlovinsir
10-28-2002, 03:29 PM
I know alot of you are anxious to see the details of the install,
and the dyno gains.
I started to do the job yesterday, and had a little trip up.
(lower intake manifold bracket bolt shown in this pic)



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p283bab456bf4de479e4b4178709dd878/fd1c779d.jpg

I went to my honda dealer to get this pic and solve a question I had.
This install is quite detailed and I have numerous pics to show
each step. I will be adding to this thread when the job is complete.

My best guess and knowing what is required, tools and steps
involved would take about 2 hours.
For now you can just study the blowup, until I get all the
necessary process layout. (Will be available after this weekend)

Hondata has a general outline for the install, there are
some things that are not included here, and may cause you
problems Hondata Heatshield Gasket Install (http://www.hondata.com/k20gasketinstall.html) (RSX - we only have the
one lower intake maifold bracket)

My Ever Lovin SIR...;)

02SilverSiHB
10-28-2002, 04:12 PM
that's cool man. Thanks for being the first to do this and take pics :D

myeverlovinsir
10-28-2002, 05:13 PM
Originally posted by BlasTech
Hope to see this one in the PROJECTS section soon!

It will reside here for now until DTH decides to add it. I have
about 80% of it layed out. tks

02blksi
10-28-2002, 06:28 PM
Ill sticky this as soon as some info is up :) --- CANT wait to see .. --joe:)

JSIR
10-29-2002, 03:41 AM
on all the Honda intake manifolds, the support brackets/bolts are always the hardest ones to access. Once you get them off the rest of the process is much easier. Hey Glen if you get a chance could you e-mail me the intake manifold diagram, it would be easier to read on my old computer that way. thanks. Look forward to seeing the install completed.

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 02:47 PM
Here are the steps I took to install the Heatshield gasket.
I tried to do this all in one reply and got bumped for having
too many images.


First the tools you will require....

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p46638ab568a1b6d0c5bb809451ff6208/fd176510.jpg

12mm Wrench
3/8" Ratchet
Magnetic pic-up tool
10mm & 12mm sockets
Short & long 3/8" extension Bars
3/8" Universal
Flat head screw driver
Needle nose pliers

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 02:51 PM
Step 1:

Remove the Intake manifold cover. (Two 10mm bolts) And Intake
manifold cover brakets (Two 10mm bolts)



http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p3d2c7cee0f3767ff3995bc207b223b8f/fd176523.jpg

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 03:06 PM
Step 2:

Remove the sensor and wire harness connectors from the
Throttle body. (4 total - 2 above the TB and 2 below)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p7b41979cc4705afe6f3e884d653124b1/fd176514.jpg

Remove the TB and Intake manifold Hoses.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pa0ab2b03bac1c85c1a540e9b4d235519/fd17650c.jpg

Step 3:

Remove the Throttle cable along its seating points and unclip the
left manifold hose.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pd73f73fe2a07562336fa3b10e83f3872/fd175e21.jpg

Step 4:

Remove the Intake hose connection, be it stock, CAI or SRI. This
will give you clearance to the TB nuts and bolts (4 x 12mm)
I have a CAI and needed to remove the battery in order to get
clearance to move my intake out of the way.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p0fc71604da5e22895d7745c915b9e9ea/fd176506.jpg

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 03:18 PM
Step 5:

Remove the TB. It can be pushed aside as there is no need to remove
the TB water hose connections (coolant bypass), there is enough clearance with them left intact.

Next remove the Fuel rail from the Intake manifold.
Two 12mm nuts on the top of the fuel rail and one 10mm bolt
holding the ground wire.
Unclip the green connector and have a rag handy to catch
the fuel as it leaks from the rail.
Slide it out parallel in order not to damage the O-ring seals on the
injectors. The fuel rail can rest aside with the TB.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pf340ddb7c3b28925e4f338a3e227034b/fd17650e.jpg

Step 6:

From underneath the car you will locate the lower manifold bracket
bolt. Remove it. (12mm) Here is the best pic I have of it.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p839a3c92d9ced20807a38f60a9734c92/fd1764c1.jpg

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 03:31 PM
Step 7:

Remove all of the manifold nuts and bolts (7 total)
The 2 top studs will need to be removed (using the
back to back nut technique). Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whole fascia out of the
engine bay for clearance.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p27a5a7c8c58942cb512e871b7e69a209/fd175c93.jpg
The left upper most manifold bolt will require a wrench in order
to remove it due to lack of clearance, the others can be gotten
with the long and short extensions and universal.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p9929334b4eab3716093d05eb31f42d7f/fd1764fa.jpg
Above shows the back to back nut technique used to remove the
studs.

Step 8:

Once you have all the manifold fasteners off, you can pull it back
to gain clearance to the stock black aluminum gasket.
Remove it and clean the surface of the gasket area thoroughly.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pe04a1cbef750ed91ea735855f8e20a75/fd1764f5.jpg

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 03:43 PM
Step 9:

Insert the new Hondata heatshield and locate it while replacing
the studs. Use the same technique as removal to replace them.
(back to back nuts)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p29f33d9ef9a486fc78c14508b0a1b0b9/fd1764f0.jpg

Replace all the manifold fasteners, don't forget the lower bracket.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pfb3135802ac96b68b7c5bce35368f0c4/fd1764ea.jpg

Step 10:

Replace the TB and cable, Fuel rail, intake, battery, wire harnesses, and hoses. Basically work your way backwards.
The 12mm Nuts/bolts should be tightened to 16lb-ft torque
and the 10mm bolts tightened to 8.7lb-ft torque

Start your car.
If everything is correctly replaced you should have no problems.
Replace the manifold cover.

Because the fuel rail was disconnected, you will have low fuel
in it, so expect to have the motor turn over at least 3 times before
it starts.

If you did remove your battery, then you will also need to have
your security code handy for the radio.

The total time was near 2 hours and was trouble free. I hope this
will help anyone else that wishes to do this install. I learned
alot about my engine, just from doing it.
Next up is the dyno run to provide a simple comparison of before and after.


Here is a cool pic of the intake runners in the manifold.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p8696143c4cf7239e44e99ac31ad54580/fd1764f3.jpg

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 03:50 PM
On a side note I noticed a very crutial thing about my intake.
This would also apply to any others running the AEM CAI (or any other intake for that matter). And
OBVIOUSLY would have effected my dyno run.

Here is a pic of my rad hose pressed directly up against my intake.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p9cdfc6c1cd8f4aab017f05d7c60b11ba/fd1764e4.jpg
Dam thing was stealing my thunder, and heating the air up just
before my TB and manifold.

Here is what I have done.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/pd5e7e214d1023c79302da10b89c286ca/fd1764cf.jpg
I have a tie wrap holding it up off of my intake. This is sufficient,
but I will probably put in a longer hose that does not make contact. Everyone running the AEM CAI should check this.
Tks

My Ever Lovin SIR...:p

2k2civicSi
11-02-2002, 03:52 PM
''The 2 top studs will need to be removed as well using the
back to back nut technique. Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whold fasia out of the''

so how do you take them out i guess i dont really understand what your trying to say

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 04:08 PM
Originally posted by 2k2civicSi
''The 2 top studs will need to be removed as well using the
back to back nut technique. Unfortunately we do not have the
same clearance as the RSX for this, and it is much easier just
to remove the studs intead of taking the whold fasia out of the''

so how do you take them out i guess i dont really understand what your trying to say

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p9929334b4eab3716093d05eb31f42d7f/fd1764fa.jpg

This is from hondata...


http://www.hondata.com/images/studremove.jpg


Basically what you are doing here, in order to remove the studs
from the head, is tightening one 12mm nut onto another (back to back)
on the protruded end of the stud. You can use the 2 you removed
from the manifold or the 2 nuts removed from the fuel rail, all
are 12mm nuts.

This gives you some leverage on the stud in order to remove
it. It is a handy trick used by many mechanics to get these studs
out. Hope the pics show enough.

JSIR
11-02-2002, 05:23 PM
wow, great work Glen, lots of good info for anyone wanting to do that mod. . excellent post.

Hey Glen, did you notice any black residue granule like material sitting at the bottom of the intake manifold ?. There is a tray like section at the bottom side of the manifold, when I took my throttle body off I noticed a bit of granules sitting down there, they kind of felt like carbon granules. Looks like the tray is meant to collect materials and oils that come from the breather tube system. Just wondering if you noticed any in yours ?, I cleaned mine out as best as I could. Kind of hard to describe unless you've seen it.

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 05:34 PM
Originally posted by JSIR
wow, great work Glen, lots of good info for anyone wanting to do that mod. . excellent post.

Hey Glen, did you notice any black residue granule like material sitting at the bottom of the intake manifold ?. There is a tray like section at the bottom side of the manifold, when I took my throttle body off I noticed a bit of granules sitting down there, they kind of felt like carbon granules. Looks like the tray is meant to collect materials and oils that come from the breather tube system. Just wondering if you noticed any in yours ?, I cleaned mine out as best as I could. Kind of hard to describe unless you've seen it.

I had noticed that as well and removed the tray to clean it. Also
wiped out the entire manifold as best I could along with the TB
and head. There was definetely a black carbon build up along all.
One thing I will look into doing when I get my TB bored, is to hone
out and polish the manifold fully.

By the looks of the manifold it could handle quite a bit of water up
take, if that ever happened, before it became a issue and got
sucked into the upper runners.

Tks Joey.

ssvr6
11-02-2002, 05:56 PM
Awesome work!! Great step by step!

Now, I just need the cahones to do this myself. (The fuel rail scares me.)

Steve

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 06:05 PM
Originally posted by ssvr6
Awesome work!! Great step by step!

Now, I just need the cahones to do this myself. (The fuel rail scares me.)

Steve


Nothing to be scared about here, one thing that I might suggest.
Remove the battery, even if you don't need to. This will take the
fuel and spark equation out of the picture, just for safety sake.
I think there may have been about a half a cup of gas that leaked
out from the fuel rail when I unclipped it. Other than that the
rail comes out quite nicely. tks

JSIR
11-02-2002, 06:09 PM
with fuel rails I always wrap the end with a sandwich bag and put an elastic around it super tight so you dont inhale fumes all the time. Removing the battery is a good idea. On the old b16's we always relieved the fuel pressure before dismantling the fuel rails/manifolds but it doesn't seem like these engines need that.

2k2civicSi
11-02-2002, 06:57 PM
im sorry im a dumb ass but im not understanding the reson for the back to back nut are you trying to take the stud out or are you trying to get a tight nut off

myeverlovinsir
11-02-2002, 07:31 PM
Originally posted by 2k2civicSi
im sorry im a dumb ass but im not understanding the reson for the back to back nut are you trying to take the stud out or are you trying to get a tight nut off


No, just removal and replacement of the studs.
Here is a stud with a nut. You can see that it would be difficult to
unscrew it from the head after you remove the nut. (nothing to grip on)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p62aff8690fb55f4da19e7a9313d8ebc5/fd1717ee.jpg

Imagine 2 nuts back to back and tight (as shown here) on the same end.
now you can turn the inner nut couterclockwise to remove the stud from the head.
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid37/p2b43b209a4d2b1081e52f23c5953fc67/fd1715a5.jpg

....hth

02blksi
11-02-2002, 10:17 PM
EXCELLENT POST!!! a hall of famer.! -- joe.

how bout some intial impressions? intake manifold feel cooler to the touch after installing this?
At the same time that you removed your TB did you do the coolant Bypass as well?

Thanks --joe

BTW:STICKIED!

2k2civicSi
11-02-2002, 10:22 PM
thank you i didnt relize you had to take the stud out

JSIR
11-02-2002, 10:25 PM
Originally posted by 02blksi
EXCELLENT POST!!! a hall of famer.! -- joe.

how bout some intial impressions? intake manifold feel cooler to the touch after installing this?
At the same time that you removed your TB did you do the coolant Bypass as well?

Thanks --joe

BTW:STICKIED!


That's what I would like to know, after driving around town for an hour or so does the intake manifold feel any cooler to the touch ?, afterall that's the purpose of the gasket. Probably best tested in warm summer conditions, things are pretty cool up here right now, even my intake manifold feels cool to the touch after a drive.

As for the coolant by-pass trick, Glen drives his car in winter up here, so that would not be a very good mod to do this time of the year, it can actually be dangerous in our climate.

02SilverSiHB
11-02-2002, 11:12 PM
Originally posted by JSIR



That's what I would like to know, after driving around town for an hour or so does the intake manifold feel any cooler to the touch ?, afterall that's the purpose of the gasket. Probably best tested in warm summer conditions, things are pretty cool up here right now, even my intake manifold feels cool to the touch after a drive.
my intake manifold felt way cooler to the touch after installing mine on my other civic. Before the manifold was hot, not hot enough to burn you, but after words, with the gasket I could touch it and it was barely warm...this was in the summer....with a JRSC at 10lbs of boost

JSIR
11-02-2002, 11:18 PM
Originally posted by 02SilverSiHB

my intake manifold felt way cooler to the touch after installing mine on my other civic. Before the manifold was hot, not hot enough to burn you, but after words, with the gasket I could touch it and it was barely warm...this was in the summer....with a JRSC at 10lbs of boost

nice, I've heard that about other similar products, they used to call them phenolic spacers ?, or something like that. Hopefully Hondata's version works as well.

cbecker333
11-03-2002, 02:01 PM
I bow before the everlovinSiR.....we all do. Can't wait to see those dyno comparisons! And get my new gasket installed!

IceD out N CALI
11-03-2002, 08:58 PM
good job, cant wait to see the dyno numbers too:)

HondaMan
11-03-2002, 10:04 PM
Great "How To"...thanks! I hope to do this sooner or later.

myeverlovinsir
11-04-2002, 07:51 AM
Ok first impressions of the gasket.

When I brought my car into the garage before the install
(outside temp was near 5 deg celcius) and opened the hood
to start working on it, the intake was just too hot to handle by
hand. I had to wait about 15 min. before it was even close to
touchable.

This morning after driving to work (100 kms) I immediately parked
the car and openend the hood to check. Dam it was barely warm
to the touch.
There is a definite improvement in temperature reduction in
the manifold and I suspect gains as a result.


I will be doing a dyno run after the SEMA show when my hondata
dealer comes back. Thanks all for the positive feeback!

LordKoo
11-04-2002, 06:58 PM
Since you are at it, why don't you just have the intake manifold coat by Swain coating with a layer thermal coating? This should reduce the heat transfer significantly.

Just adding a gasket does not solve the problem in my opinion.

myeverlovinsir
11-04-2002, 07:31 PM
Originally posted by LordKoo
Since you are at it, why don't you just have the intake manifold coat by Swain coating with a layer thermal coating? This should reduce the heat transfer significantly.

Just adding a gasket does not solve the problem in my opinion.

If radiant ambient heat transfer were as significant a problem as thermal
transfer from the direct contact with the head, then I guess
you could look at refracting it with a baked thermal coating such as
powder zirconia. (Same stuff used on my AEM intakes)
Air flow when driving helps to eleviate ambient temps.

But the major problem has been resolved here. Run your ride
for a bit then tell me you can hold you hands on the intake
manifold without experiencing severe pain and/or a burn in a
few seconds. I can tell you that it is now tepid to the touch. Luke warm at best.
And can rest my hands upon it indefinitely while parked and
reving the engine.

My honda dealer was really hesitant today to touch the manifold,
having worked with 2k2 Si(R)'s alot,
and when he saw me resting my hands on it, while running
and reving, (we were checking an exhaust rattle)
he was surprised at the difference in temp. hth

JSIR
11-04-2002, 07:47 PM
so it does feel cooler to the touch compared to the stock manifold setup, sounds good. That's a bitch about the header.

myeverlovinsir
11-04-2002, 07:54 PM
Originally posted by JSIR
so it does feel cooler to the touch compared to the stock manifold setup, sounds good. That's a bitch about the header.

Joey, I can't quite recall what the numbers were when you
used the digital temp. meter on my intake. Let me know.
My best guess would be about 30 deg. Celcius now.
Quite a significant change in temp.

GeNoZiDe
11-08-2002, 01:16 AM
is the stock black aluminum gasket replaced by the intake gasket heat sheild? or do we put the heat sheild on behind or infront of it?

02SilverSiHB
11-08-2002, 08:16 AM
Originally posted by GeNoZiDe
is the stock black aluminum gasket replaced by the intake gasket heat sheild? or do we put the heat sheild on behind or infront of it?
you replace the stock gasket compeletly with the new hondata one. The hondata one eliminates some of the heat transfer from the head to the intake manifold

02SilverSiHB
11-11-2002, 11:32 PM
I didn't want to make a new thread for this small detail, but wow, this is awsome....it's sooo nice to hear:

"A little bird told us that Jackson is working with Hondata to offer an integrated ECU solution for the K-series - bravo!"


it's at the bottom under the pics of the JRSC on the acura/honda cars
http://www.vtec.net/articles/view-article?article_id=51007&page_number=4

MickeCTR
11-20-2002, 04:27 AM
Any dyno yet?
Thanx for the step by step thing!

OldSIMan
11-27-2002, 08:08 AM
FYI, I have 10 heatshield gaskets on order. I'll post in the for sale section when I have them in. Price will be $55 shipped for the first 5.
Anyway, I should have dyno results by the end of the year for this. You can also check dyno results from Hondata at www.hondata.com.

HondaMan
11-27-2002, 09:07 AM
Originally posted by OldSIMan
FYI, I have 10 heatshield gaskets on order. I'll post in the for sale section when I have them in. Price will be $55 shipped for the first 5.
Anyway, I should have dyno results by the end of the year for this. You can also check dyno results from Hondata at www.hondata.com.

I would be interested in getting 1.

Thanks,
JP

PoRT
11-27-2002, 10:18 AM
same.. i want one. dont forget to PM ME ;)

myeverlovinsir
11-30-2002, 08:54 PM
Shame but I have yet to do that, have scheduled a run this
weekend if my Hondata dealer can't get a HP reading from
it. (not quite setup yet, only torque readings) Am also gonna get an air fuel ratio done
to see what potential we have in these engines. ;)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid40/pc54dd1e47cbfddd6843a4e726ce8a2a4/fcfcd0d0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid40/p309cf89d1842cb717ea12bff48e39419/fcfccc8d.jpg

Jpax
12-01-2002, 11:55 AM
Originally posted by myeverlovinsir
Shame but I have yet to do that, have scheduled a run this
weekend if my Hondata dealer can get a HP reading from
it. (not quite setup yet, only torque readings) Am also gonna get an air fuel ratio done
to see what potential we have in these engines. ;)
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid40/pc54dd1e47cbfddd6843a4e726ce8a2a4/fcfcd0d0.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid40/p309cf89d1842cb717ea12bff48e39419/fcfccc8d.jpg


what was this run with? intake exhaust and headder you have right? and with or with out the headsheld?

OldSIMan
12-02-2002, 11:55 AM
FYI,
Hondata is expecting the Heatshield gaskets by the end of this week - hopefully. Which means I would have them by the middle of next week around 12/11/02. Again, when I have them in hand, I'll post in the for-sale-vendors board.

myeverlovinsir
12-04-2002, 03:59 PM
I just finished making arrangements to have my TB bored out on the 17th this month, will be my last mod of the year (ho hum). Thanks, for
all the info ephatch goer's! May 03 bring even better Si(R)'s out!
cheers:D

myeverlovinsir
12-19-2002, 09:14 PM
I can say that the gasket is a great item. It also helps during cooldown periods or when at idle. Intake has less heat to disipate so the manifold remains cooler.
Intake, TB and heatshield results. (http://147.208.133.90/pixami/ImageServer.psp?Cmd=GetEditedImage&ID=sess:LEFX1Q004P79&width=-1&height=-1&fmt=jpeg&tm=1040342570740) :cool:

myeverlovinsir
12-23-2002, 03:28 PM
I don't sell the gasket...and is why I don't post in the "Vendors Forum" (http://ephatch.com/forum/forumdisplay.php?daysprune=&forumid=53) :(

I would go to Hondata (http://www.hondata.com/) or in "Vendors Forum" if you want a heatsheild.

OldSIMan
01-09-2003, 08:07 AM
I installed a heatshield gasket and measured the external temperature of the intake before and after.

Before installation, after a 20 minute run in light traffic averaging 45mph, with ambient temperatures 33 degrees F., external intake temps on the runners were 145 degrees, and 151 degrees on the plenum.

After installation, a 20 minute drive over the same route, with ambient temps of 68 degrees resulted in intake runner temps of 79 degrees, and plenum temp of 81 degrees.

However, after another run, then letting the car stand for 15 minutes turned off, the intake runner temps jumped to 131 degrees, with plenum temp of 139 degrees. In other words, it's still possible to heat soak the intake. The bottom line is if you're going to race, open your hood to avoid heat soak. Stay tuned for dyno results.

oogy-boogy
11-01-2003, 01:44 PM
I just wanted to take the time to say THANK YOU soooo much fom Anj (anjapower) and myself. Thanks to you, we just did the install on both of our EP's and it went great.

Thanks again!!!


:D

mobilesuit02
12-25-2003, 10:14 PM
How was the car's performance after the install?


:m:

myeverlovinsir
02-01-2004, 12:09 PM
The heatshield is a nice addition to reducing the heat transition between the head and IM. There are gains and don't have dyno numbers to support it, however putting your hands on the IM before and after the install will make a believer out of you. After having this on my ride for over 30kms and an A2 head swap it is durable and effective.;)

myeverlovinsir
04-13-2004, 05:11 PM
A few guys were recently looking for a thread about this install, well it's been here all along. If you want to the see the pics and they help alot, right click on the red x's and under properties copy the address:(URL) into a new browser.;)

Ep3 No.2
04-13-2004, 06:12 PM
cool thanks for the hint to unlock the pictures.

Mr Plow
06-25-2004, 07:21 PM
Just did the install. I had trouble getting the IM off and figured I'd come here and search. Low and behold, I found this thread. I'm glad you posted the info about the studs - my neighbor (a toyota mechanic LOL) and I were stunned on how to get it off till you said - remove the studs LOL. Thanks again, much appreciated..Car is still not finished, because I was also installing my Mugen thermo, fan switch and radiator cap - along with water wetter when I replace all the lost fluid...Glad I decided to get the gasket when I ordered the mugen stuff...Easier to get to thermostat housing that way ;)