K-series engine Information

[Kodeen]

Post up any useful information you have. I'll start it off with specs straight from wikipedia.

K20A

Bore is 86 mm & Stroke is 86 mm for all of the K20 engines.

* Found in:
o 2007- Honda Civic Type-R (FD2)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.7:1
+ Power: 225 bhp (225 PS, 165 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 159 ft·lbf (215 N·m) @ 6100 rpm
+ Redline: 8600 rpm
o 2001-2006 Honda Civic Type-R (EP3)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 212 bhp (218 PS, 158 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 149 ft·lbf (202 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8600 rpm
o 2002-2007 Honda Integra Type-R (DC5)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 217 bhp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 152 ft·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8800 rpm
+ I-VTEC Engagement: 5600rpm
o 2003-2007 Honda Accord Euro-R
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.5:1
+ Power: 217 bhp (220 PS, 162 kW) @ 8000 rpm
+ Torque: 152 f·lbf (206 N·m) @ 7000 rpm
+ Redline: 8800 rpm

K20A2

* Found in:
o 2002-2004 Acura RSX Type-S and 2002-2005 Honda Civic Type R (EP3, European)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.0:1
+ Power: 200ps/197hp (147kW) @ 7400rpm
+ Torque: 142ft·lbf (193N·m) @ 6000rpm
+ Redline: 7800pm
+ VTEC Engagement: 5800rpm

K20A3

* Found in:
o2002-2005 Honda Civic Si
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 9.8:1
+ Power: 160 hp (119 kW)* (119 kW) @ 6500 rpm
+ Torque: 132 lb·ft (179 N·m) @ 5000 rpm
o2002-2006 Acura RSX
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 9.8:1
+ Power: 155 hp (116 kW)* (115 kW) @ 6500 rpm
+ Torque: 141 lb·ft (191 N·m)* (191 N·m) @ 4000 rpm
+ Redline: 6800 rpm
+ (* Horsepower and torque calculations reflect new SAE J1349 procedures revised August 2004)
* (The intake manifold is often credited with being responsible for the difference in HP between these two variants. The Civic Si being equipped with an aluminium intake manifold, and the RSX Base model equipped with a plastic version).

(The base rsx makes 10 more lbs of torque then the Civic Si due to the fact of the "plastic" intake manifold and it is a dual runner]

K20Z1

* Found in:
o 2005-2006 Acura RSX-S
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 11.0:1
+ Power: 201 hp (154 kW) @ 7800 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
+ Torque: 141 ft·lbf (194 N·m) @ 7000 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
+ Redline: 8100 rpm

K20Z2

* Found in:
o 2006- Acura CSX (Canada)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 9.6:1
+ Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm (SAE net J1349 Rev 8/04)
+ Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm / 188 N·m @ 4200 rpm (Singapore)
+ Redline: 6800 rpm
o 2006- Honda Civic (JDM)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 9.6:1
+ Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
+ Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
+ Redline: 6800 rpm
o 2006- Honda Accord Sport(Europe)
+ Displacement: 1998 cc
+ Compression: 9.6:1
+ Power: 155 hp (114 kW) @ 6000 rpm
+ Torque: 139 ft·lbf (188 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
+ Redline: 6800 rpm

K20Z3

This inline-4 cylinder internal combustion engine is found in the US market Honda Civic Si (2006+) & Canadian market Acura CSX Type-S. It has an aluminium block with an aluminium head, and a bore and stroke of 86 mm*86 mm, resulting in a 2.0 Liter displacement.

* Found in:
o 2006+ Honda Civic Si (FG2 - Coupe & FA5 - Sedan), 2007 Acura CSX Type-S
+ Displacement : 1998 cc
+ Compression : 11.0:1
+ Power: 197 bhp (147 kW) @ 7800 rpm (sae NET Rev 8/04)
+ Torque: 139 ft·lbf (189 N·m) @ 6200 rpm (sae NET Rev 8/04)
+ Redline: 8200 rpm

K20Z4

This inline-4 cylinder internal combustion engine is found in the redesigned Honda Civic Type-R (FN2). It has an aluminium block with an aluminium head, and a bore and stroke of 86 mm*86 mm, resulting in a 2.0 Liter displacement.

* Found in:
o 2007 Honda Civic Type-R (FN2) (Europe Market)
+ Displacement : 1998 cc
+ Compression : 11.0:1
+ Power: 198 bhp (201 PS, 148 kW) @ 7800 rpm
+ Torque: 142 ft·lbf (193 N·m) @ 5600 rpm
+ Redline: 8200 rpm
+ 16V DOHC I-VTEC changes from low speed cams to high speed cams at 5,600 RPM

K23A1

* Turbocharged
* Found in:
o 2007/2008 Acura RDX
+ Displacement: 2300 cc (acura.com)
+ Compression: 8.8:1 (acura.com)
+ Power: 240 hp (179 kW) @ 6000 rpm (SAE net)
+ Torque: 260 lb·ft (353 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (SAE net)
+ Redline: 6800 rpm (acura.com)
+ Bore: 86 mm
+ Stroke: 99 mm

K24A1

* Found in:
o 2002-2006 Honda CR-V
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 9.6:1
+ Power: 160 hp (120 kW) @ 6000 rpm
+ Torque: 162ft·lbf (220 N·m) @ 3600 rpm
+ Redline: 6500 rpm

K24A2

* Found in:
o 2004-2008 Acura TSX
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 10.5:1
+ Power: 200 hp (147 kW) @ 6800 rpm (2004-2005)
+ Power: 205 hp (150 kW) @ 6800 rpm (2006-2007) *SAE Net Rev 8/04
+ Torque: 166 ft·lbf (225 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (2004-2005)
+ Torque: 164 ft·lbf (222 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (2006-2007)*SAE Net Rev 8/04
+ VTEC Engagement: 6000 RPM
+ Redline: 7100 rpm

K24A3

* Found in:
o 2003-2007 Honda Accord (Europe and Japan) and 2003-2007 Honda Accord Euro CL9 (Australia)
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 10.5:1
+ Power: 189 hp (140 kW) @ 6800 rpm
+ Torque: 164.5 ft·lbf (223 N·m) @ 4500 rpm
+ Redline: 7400 rpm
+ VTEC Engagement: 6000rpm

K24A4

* Found in:
o 2003-2005 Honda Accord, 2003-2006 Honda Element
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 9.7:1
+ Power: 160 hp (119 kW) @ 5500 rpm (166 hp in 2007/2008)
+ Torque: 161 ft·lbf (218 N·m) @ 4500 rpm (@4000 rpm in 2007/2008)
+ Redline: 6500 rpm

K24A8

* Found in:
o 2006-2007 Honda Accord
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm
+ Compression: 9.7:1
+ Power: 166 hp (124 kW) @ 6000 rpm
+ Torque: 160 lb·ft (217 N·m) @ 4000 rpm
+ Redline: 6500 rpm
o 2007-2008 Honda Element
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm
+ Compression: 9.7:1
+ Power: 166 hp @ 5800 rpm
+ Torque: 161 lb·ft (218 N·m) @ 4000 rpm
+ Redline: 6500 rpm

K24Z1

* Found in:
o 2007-2008 Honda CR-V
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 9.7:1
+ Power: 166 hp @ 5800 rpm
+ Torque: 161 ft·lbf @ 4200 rpm
+ Redline: 6500 rpm

K24Z2

* Found in:
o 2008 Honda Accord LX/LX-P trim models
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 10.5:1
+ Power: 177 @ 6500 rpm
+ Torque: 161 ft·lbf @ 4300 rpm
+ Redline: 6800 rpm

K24Z3

* Found in:
o 2008 Honda Accord EX/EX-L trim models
+ Displacement: 2354 cc
+ Bore and Stroke: 87 mm x 99 mm (3.43x3.90 inches)
+ Compression: 10.5:1
+ Power: 190 @ 7000 rpm
+ Torque: 162 ft·lbf @ 4400 rpm
+ Redline: 7100 rpm

[Tnhatch03]

Here are the best Information about K motors


#1 Basic codes/Information about K motors.

Thank you..



The i-VTEC system found in the Honda K20Z3.The Honda K series engine is a four-cylinder otto cycle engine. It is available in 2.0 L and 2.4 L naturally-aspirated variants, and a 2.3 L turbocharged model. http://www.k20a.org/pacman/K20_head.jpg

The K series engines are all equipped with DOHC valvetrains with Honda's i-VTEC variable valve timing control.

Honda made this engine a big improvement over its older 4-cylinder engines by including friction-reducing technologies to reduce parasitic loss.

The K-series uses a DOHC valvetrain, which utilizes roller rockers to reduce friction. The VTEC system on engines like the K20A3 is only on the intake cam, and at low RPM when not engaged, allows the engine to function as a 12-valve engine, opening only one intake valve so that the air swirls for better combustion. This VTEC system was designed with fuel economy in mind. In engines like the K20A2 found in the RSX Type-S, The VTEC system always allows the motor to run as a 16 valve engine, and when VTEC engages, its on both the intake and exhaust rockers, and opens all 4 valves even more at high RPM

The K-series motors all use DI, or distributorless ignition. It uses a coil on plug system, in which each spark plug has its own coil atop it. This allows the ECU to send the spark exactly when it wants it, and removes the need for spark plug wires.

A wide variety of aftermarket parts are available for the K engines, and tuners are finding that 240 and more bhp are available with routine modifications.




PART #2 How to break in a New engine..

One of the most asked questions is how do I break in my new motor? The short answer is that no break-in is necessary. The only thing that is necessary is to seat the rings. All clearances and fitments should be perfect after blueprinting and precision assembly. So how many miles do you have to drive it to seat the rings? The cylinders are round, the rings are round, the bore is freshly honed and therefore your engine should be ready for tuning immediately. They will continue to seat better over a short period of time but you should be ready to go tune right away.
Do I need to drive it 500 miles before I tune it? Absolutely not. How about 50 miles? No. Perhaps the best thing to do is to drive it all the way to your trailer and tow it to a competent tuner. In second position on the “things NOT to do list” is trying to break in an un-tuned engine by driving it. Too lean an air/fuel will begin to heat and distort parts, too rich will wash the oil off the cylinders causing premature wear. What is in first place on the “things NOT to do list”? Boost on an un-tuned motor. Within 2 to 3 seconds the pistons and cylinders can be ruined.
Well I did put in a new base map or I’m just running off the stock Honda computer. Can’t I drive it like that for a few miles? I’m not even boosting. Well what is the base map? Just someone’s idea of what numbers will start your car. Just an educated guess by someone who does not have a clue what components you are running in your set-up. It’s not intended to drive on for any extended period of time. The same with that stock Honda computer. It could be ok but it could also be dangerously wrong.

So what exactly do I do at the first engine start-up? Pull the spark plugs and crank the motor with your starter for a maximum of 30 seconds or until you see the oil pressure gauge begin to register. Re-install the plugs and wires and fire up that candle. While keeping one eye on the oil pressure gauge, use your other eye to scan for fuel leaks. If there are no fuel leaks, look under the motor for any major oil or coolant leaks. If that is ok, run the engine for 5 to 10 minutes while keeping an eye on the temperature and pressure gauges. Keep the rpm’s between 1000-3000. Shut the engine down and double-check everything. You are now ready for tuning.

But my engine was already tuned from my previous set-up. Well, what happened to your previous set-up? Did you melt a stock piston or crack a cylinder? No problem because now you have forged pistons and sleeves? Wrong. Although you now have stronger components that will take more abuse, you are still not right on your air fuel mixture. Get that thing tuned properly ASAP.

OK, I did it my way instead of yours and now I’m burning a lot of oil. What happened? Well basically you scarred up the skirt of the piston, messed up the surface of the cylinder wall and maybe even egg shaped the cylinder. New pistons are tapered smaller on the top to larger at the bottom of the skirt. Your piston to wall clearance is measured at the bottom of the skirt. As the engine warms up to operating temperature, the upper portion of the piston begins to expand slightly. The bottom of the skirt does not expand much. When you boost in a lean condition, the upper part of the piston expands quickly. Since the ring land area is cut smaller than the tapered skirt below it, the first part of the piston that pushes into the cylinder wall is just below the oil ring. Thus you will see the worst scarring on your piston right under the ring lands where the excess heat is the highest

http://www.k20a.org/pacman/p2x.jpg

The more heat that is generated, the harder the piston pushes into the cylinder wall. The uninformed would blame the piston damage on bad piston to wall clearance. Untrue. If that were the problem, the damage would show up at the very bottom of the skirt. What has happened is that you have expanded your piston to the point that it has just ground itself into the cylinder wall. Keep expanding the piston by super heating it and it will push your cylinder egg shaped and maybe even balloon out the cylinder slightly. At the same time this is happening, your ring lands will begin to distort to where they will never seal properly again. Sometimes after doing this, the engine will still run but it will be a smoker. This all happens in a few seconds of high boost with a lean air fuel ratio. Also it can happen from 500 freeway miles of driving where the tune up is off enough to build excess heat at a slower rate, thus doing the same damage over a longer period of time…but the end results are the same. Death to your pistons and cylinder walls.

OK, I’m just going to turn the fuel pressure way up and run extra fat, that way I won’t hurt anything. If you run too rich, you will “wash out” the rings. First, excess fuel will run down the cylinders taking the lubricating oil with it. This promotes direct metal-to-metal contact between the rings and the cylinder wall. This contact does several things. The upper ring begins to wear quickly. The middle ring is actually designed as a tapered oil scraper (it is not used for compression control at all) and the taper will begin to wear down to where it becomes flat rather than angled. When that happens, it can no longer control oil away from the combustion chamber. The last thing that happens is that pretty cross hatch design begins to wear off of the cylinder wall. While most people think that the cross hatch is there to help seat the rings, it also has a secondary purpose. That is to hold microscopic amounts of oil in the grooves to help lubricate ring to cylinder walls. With the walls smooth and no oil control help from the middle ring and a tired upper ring, oil will begin to mix with fuel in the combustion chamber. When this happens, your 93 octane fuel probably hits a value of about 80. Then detonation comes into play and begins to beat holes in the pistons, among other things.

So whom can I blame for this mess? The blind machinist that honed my piston to wall clearance? That poor quality Brand X piston manufacturer? The idiot pro engine builder that assembled my block? My ex-friend that helped me put this all together? Those ignorant engineers that gave me a bad base map with my engine management system? The guy on the internet message board whose buddy knows that it takes at least 1000 miles of break in before you can tune an engine properly? All of the above? Probably none of the above. Go look in a mirror and ask…who started this engine and had no idea what the air fuel ratio was? Who just wanted to jump on it one time to see if it would haul? Who didn’t know that their injectors were at 100% duty cycle at 4000 rpm but they wanted to see how it would run at 6000 rpm? Why it was you. Get that thing tuned right away. You will notice that the more you drive a tuned motor, the stronger it will feel. This is just the rings seating in their final 5-10% as they thank you for tuning first.

[Unknownally]

The K20A is also found in the JDM EP3-R.

[Kodeen]

Take a second look at the list. It's in there.

[bphom]

that k23a1 sounds like a beast. i would like to see someone on here swap that engine in their car.

[Unknownally]

Oops my bad I just skimmed through.

[2004ep3hatch]

very nice find guys. im racking my brain trying to find all this info to postup

[thanismo]

wow ! nice find playas

[HappiChild]

this is awesome, I am going to print these out. thanks

[thisisagame24]

nice post....def should be stickied

[Tnhatch03]

stickied

[Kodeen]

that k23a1 sounds like a beast. i would like to see someone on here swap that engine in their car.

As cool as that would be, due to the FWD vs AWD issues it's practically impossible.

[ezep3]

whats the diffrence between the k24a4 and the k24a1????

[SSM]

one of my fav links.. :mcool:

[MUJO]

wow great post guys ..... thanks

[eclecticteg21]

would there be any problems with putting a base rsx a3 into my ep3? i read that the intake manifolds are different, but besides that is there anything that could possibly stop the replacement?

I figured this was the best place to put it.

[Tnhatch03]

there should not be a problem with you doing that.

just keep the 5-speed ;-)

[eclecticteg21]

lol thanks.

[Kodeen]

there should not be a problem with you doing that.

just keep the 5-speed ;-)

Does electric vs hydraulic power steering not create a problem?

[Tnhatch03]

hmm...

probably. why are they hydraulic?

[koftaboy]

hi am sorry am sure who am i excatly talking to but i have a question about my 05 EP3 if i dont have money for a swap so is there anyway i can change the head because the K20A3 is not that good but can i get an RSX type S head and put it on my block cause u know the A3 is a DOHC but thetimeing chain is only runing on only a single cam so is there any waay with is motor thank you

[Jpax]

hi am sorry am sure who am i excatly talking to but i have a question about my 05 EP3 if i dont have money for a swap so is there anyway i can change the head because the K20A3 is not that good but can i get an RSX type S head and put it on my block cause u know the A3 is a DOHC but thetimeing chain is only runing on only a single cam so is there any waay with is motor thank you



:twitch:

:crazy:

You can put a A2 head on a A3 block but you won't net the same hp as a complete A2 engine. Save your money get a complete engine not just the top half.

[koftaboy]

thank you soo much, but its not that easy like how your saying it you know!!! ita not easy to sell everthing that fast or its gona take a long time youknow plus i looked for like 2 month i found the K20A R no less then 5,500 without anything just the the whole swap if u can tell me where i can find it that cheap the way your saying then please please help me but i just wanted to make something out of the A3 you know kpro a2 or A1 head some bolt on you know i seriously in anyway you think i can do 250HP to the wheel or more but no swap or do i have to get a swap no chance am sooo sorry i talk to much but i just want help and its seems like every one hates A3's thankx again

[cukali]

thank you soo much, but its not that easy like how your saying it you know!!! ita not easy to sell everthing that fast or its gona take a long time youknow plus i looked for like 2 month i found the K20A R no less then 5,500 without anything just the the whole swap if u can tell me where i can find it that cheap the way your saying then please please help me but i just wanted to make something out of the A3 you know kpro a2 or A1 head some bolt on you know i seriously in anyway you think i can do 250HP to the wheel or more but no swap or do i have to get a swap no chance am sooo sorry i talk to much but i just want help and its seems like every one hates A3's thankx again

He is not saying its cheap. Hes saying not to swap only the head. Save money and buy the full swap. You will not get 250hp from the A3 and you wont get 250hp from the swap either. You either have to turbocharge or save about $7k. Your choice, not his.

[classiccelica]

How much is the a2 engine usually gonna run money wise, I already have the tranny.

[sublimejdm]

from japan civic engines http://www.goo-net.com/catalog/HONDA/CIVIC/index.html#198903 and accord engines http://www.goo-net.com/catalog/HONDA/ACCORD/index.html#200410 :mbiggrin:

[RS_man]

So... what I see here is a HP difference of 52 and a Torque difference of 17. Pardon the blasphemous comment but... What makes the K20 so special? How does such a small difference make it so desirable? Is it the compression combined with the high rev limit?

[robotichatch]

As cool as that would be, due to the FWD vs AWD issues it's practically impossible.

that would be nice, oh well

[yyi]

hah wiki is awsome, great find.