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davisj3537
04-21-2008, 07:11 AM
Well long awaited DIY guys.Sorry for the bullshit excuses...so here it goes.All of my advice is to be taken with a grain of salt since I am not a certified mechanic.Foreword...If you don't know your way around your engine bay fairly well then this is not something you should do on your own.
TOOLS
8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm sockets,wrenches and deep sockets
Jack stands
tq wrench
Engine lift
Screw driver
I would really reccomend a full tool box for this one but these are just a few that came to mind.
SPECIAL PARTS NEEDED
1.CRV passenger side motor mount PART #11910-PPA-000
2.Special header(Strup,DCRH, JRRH...hits slightly, Hytech, SSR)(If you get a dcrh I reccomend a type s one since it has larger pipes)
3.
a.Kpro
b.310cc injectors w/ a3 ecu(no bolts on allowed or you will run lean)(remove front sway for the fitment of your stock header and cat)
4.I highly reccomend getting a shop manual in case you run into any problems
GETTING YOUR ENGINE BAY READY
Since you keep almost everything from the a3 it is not a very expensive swap.You will reuse all of basic stuff like starter,alternator,ps steering,water pump.I found it much easier to move stuff out of the way instead of completely removing it.For instance instead of taking the throttle body off the Intake Manifold i just set the whole thing on the windshield on a towel.I tried to remove as little as possible when swapping motors.For instance you don't have to remove the trannsmission before pulling the motor...I unbolted the battery tray and brake/clutch fluid reserviors and moved them slightly to squeeze the motors in and out.I pulled my motor out of the top so i removed the hood and I personally thought this was easier than taking it out of the bottom.Enough said on that so now on the good stuff...
CRANK POSITION SENSOR
You need to pull the crank position sensor off the a3 and put it on the k24.Here is a pic of the sensor.There are only two bolts holding it on.This is directly behind the crank pulley.Edit:This sensor swap is only neccessary if you are putting in the k24a2 from a tsx.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/239441231.jpg
You will reuse the Intake manifold and throttle body from the a3.You can throw away all the egr crap on the k24 manifold since you don't need it.You are gonna keep all the belt tensioner stuff from the a3 too so don't get rid of it.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/258946295.jpg
HEADER CLEARANCE
The deck on the K24 is a little taller than the a3 so you will need to get a different header to fit.Here is a pic of the type s dcrh and how it clears the sway bar.You will need to get a new midpipe or have yours cut and fit to the type s header.It is a couple inches too long. Use the exhaust gasket from the k24.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/241224384.jpg
I also removed the heat shield between the header and the bottom of the car...you can leave it but it might rattle on the header just a bit.
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/241224380.jpg
Here is a pic of 1abSI's car...where he cut the sway bar and modified it to fit with his jrrh....interesting
http://i14.photobucket.com/albums/a315/hhaw3/2007_0322k24swaybar0001.jpg
TURBOS
If you are going turbo then be carefull of getting a large top mounted turbo since there is less room up there to work with.Here is a pic showing you the difference in height.Look for the gap between the front strut bar and valve cover(If someone can get me a pic of there gap between the neuspeed front strut and the valve cover on their a3 then I can show a comparison)
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/239441205.jpg
CRV PASSENGER MOUNT
This is the motor mount that bolts to the timing chain cover that you need to replace(this one is from the a3)
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/239438841.jpg
Here is a pic of the one for the CRV.It is listed for 22 bucks on this website.It is item 1 in the picture
http://pic20.picturetrail.com/VOL1334/6243981/17786139/239450750.jpg
http://www.bkhondaparts.com/billkay/jsp/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=CR-V&catcgry2=2004&catcgry3=5DR+LX+(2WD)&catcgry4=KA4AT&catcgry5=ENGINE+MOUNTING+BRACKET&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=Engine
MOTOR MOUNTS
When doing this swap I found that the motor mounts were the easiest if bolted up in this order Passenger/Trannsmission/Front/Back.I found that bolting in the back is easier if you stick an allen wrench in one of the bolt holes and that way you can manuver the mount to line up with the other 2 holes.This made it much easier.
WIRE HARNESS
You guys don't be scared of the wire harness...it only goes on one way so you can't mess it up.All the wiring is a certain length so it is very unlikely you will plug the wrong sensor in the wrong place. The only sensors you can get mixed up is the map sensor and the tps. The map sensor is connected to another sensor as well and the tps is all by itself.
OIL PUMPS
The z3 or a2 pumps work great. There has been some discussion recently referring to the idle oil pressure being better with the a3 pump...the choice is yours but I vote atleast getting one or the other. If you have a a2 pump then mate it with the a2 pan, baffle, chain and oil chain tensioner. If you get the z3 pump then mate it with the z3 pan of course. Personally I highly reccomend putting in the a2 or z3 oil pump, and pan while you have the motor out.Here is a great thread showing how to mate up the oil pump with the block.
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12560&highlight=tsx+oil+pump

As I notice things that I have missed I will definately update this post.If there are any questions or other things you guys think should be added then hit me up.

davisj3537
04-21-2008, 07:12 AM
This one is much cleaner:third:I'm glad I posted most of my DIY's on crsx.com:msmooch:

crhatch02
04-21-2008, 07:29 AM
This one is much cleaner:third:I'm glad I posted most of my DIY's on crsx.com:msmooch:

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?p=510282&posted=1#post510282

too slow biotch

davisj3537
04-21-2008, 07:56 AM
I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

KeNnYtAkEr
04-21-2008, 08:18 AM
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?p=510282&posted=1#post510282

too slow biotch

Dude he was the Original DIY poster. I took down the one I copied. Since he has the pics too.



I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

Hahah now that you have yours up I'll closed/delte the other one. Post more DIY Davis3537 I know you have more.

davisj3537
04-21-2008, 08:43 AM
Dude he was the Original DIY poster. I took down the one I copied. Since he has the pics too.




Hahah now that you have yours up I'll closed/delte the other one. Post more DIY Davis3537 I know you have more.

Thanks brotha:bump: I just added a few DIY's to the DIY section:grouphug:

crhatch02
04-21-2008, 11:14 AM
I know I saw that...it looks shitty.lol. Plus I updated this with some more links and info that isn't on that one.

well aren't you hot shit

davisj3537
04-21-2008, 11:21 AM
well aren't you hot shit

That is what your mother said when I was leaving this morning:mangel:

crhatch02
04-21-2008, 01:21 PM
That is what your mother said when I was leaving this morning:mangel:

OOOOOOOH BURN

unreasonable
04-21-2008, 05:59 PM
Did you use your ep3 coil packs?
Which base map did you start with?
Is that crazy extra ground on your IM necessary?

Tnhatch03
04-21-2008, 06:04 PM
Davis - i was looking on the other sites for the information you posted up about the different Belts. still have them by chance?

Tnhatch03
04-21-2008, 06:08 PM
KeNnYtAkEr - i am going to close your thread and update the sticky. that way we do not have 2 threads with the same information.

n/m... you did it. thanks!

davisj3537
04-22-2008, 06:13 AM
Davis - i was looking on the other sites for the information you posted up about the different Belts. still have them by chance?
You talking about deleting the a/c right? I don't have it anymore...sorry. We meed a guinea pig to find them again.

davisj3537
04-22-2008, 06:14 AM
Did you use your ep3 coil packs?
Which base map did you start with?
Is that crazy extra ground on your IM necessary?

Any k coil pack is fine. I started with a base map for a k20a3 and added 15%fuel to it. That extra ground is just a grounding kit...it grounds several spots on the engine.

03Si757
04-22-2008, 06:26 AM
Question on the Crank Position Sensor. I see it says "Only necessary for the K24a2 swap" But I went ahead and pulled it from the k20a3 and put it on my K24a1. Will this effect anything and should I put the K24a1 one back on?

talonXracer
04-22-2008, 07:01 AM
You will be fine running the A3 crank sensor

03Si757
04-22-2008, 07:17 AM
Cool thankx.

davisj3537
04-22-2008, 07:17 AM
The k24a1 crank sensor and the a1 sensor are the same. I ran the a1 sensor and it was fine. The only reason it needs to be replaced on the tsx motor is the plug wont fit the sensor on your harness.

03Si757
04-22-2008, 07:27 AM
Ah, good deal. Again, thanks both of ya. Look for the pics when im done! :whoo:

KeNnYtAkEr
04-22-2008, 11:06 AM
K24A1 Break Down, with Mounts..etc.

03Si757
04-25-2008, 05:37 PM
Quick question, If I choose to run OEM Exhaust manifold and Cat from a RSX-S. Would this work? Im having ALOT of trouble with the Type S Race Header I have. It did not clear the sway bar, and its making the b-pipe bang on the bottom of the car. Plus its alot louder now.

clutch797
04-25-2008, 06:41 PM
I had that problem and i took it to an exhaust shop and the guy made my downpipe 2 inches longer and the problem was solved. And it only cost me 35 bucks.

talonXracer
04-25-2008, 06:44 PM
I had that problem and i took it to an exhaust shop and the guy made my downpipe 2 inches longer and the problem was solved. And it only cost me 35 bucks.

Yeah, most muffler shops will do it for you, it is not much different than what they do all day long.

davisj3537
04-25-2008, 07:28 PM
Quick question, If I choose to run OEM Exhaust manifold and Cat from a RSX-S. Would this work? Im having ALOT of trouble with the Type S Race Header I have. It did not clear the sway bar, and its making the b-pipe bang on the bottom of the car. Plus its alot louder now.
I have heard it fits but then also I have had the type s RH fit.

03Si757
04-25-2008, 07:56 PM
The problem is the Race Header angels Upward on the bottom of the car, Could that be adjusted? I dont need that much extra space, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 of an inch.

davisj3537
04-25-2008, 08:09 PM
The problem is the Race Header angels Upward on the bottom of the car, Could that be adjusted? I dont need that much extra space, maybe 1/4 or 1/2 of an inch.

I removed the heat shield there where the header meets the midpipe and it gave me enough room. I did have a custom mid pipe made though.

03Si757
04-25-2008, 09:23 PM
I removed the heat shield there where the header meets the midpipe and it gave me enough room. I did have a custom mid pipe made though.

But see, mine is not hitting the heat shield, and the shield is still on there. its hitting a support on the bottom of the car a little after that. The support was bent were the exhaust lays, but my b-pipe is laying right up against it.

MR.Pizza
04-25-2008, 10:10 PM
Is there any clearance issues with the rbc I/M and the k24a1?

the JigGa mAn
04-25-2008, 10:18 PM
i know you have to get the CRV passenger side motor mount, what if you want to use a better mount like the innovative motor mounts? do they make a kit that comes with the CRV passenger side mount?

davisj3537
04-26-2008, 08:04 PM
i know you have to get the CRV passenger side motor mount, what if you want to use a better mount like the innovative motor mounts? do they make a kit that comes with the CRV passenger side mount?

The mount kit replaces a different piece of the mount...you still need the crv mount. It is only like 20 bucks man.

davisj3537
04-26-2008, 08:06 PM
But see, mine is not hitting the heat shield, and the shield is still on there. its hitting a support on the bottom of the car a little after that. The support was bent were the exhaust lays, but my b-pipe is laying right up against it.

By bpipe Im assuming your talking about the midpipe right? Any exhaust shop should have no problems angling some new exhaust pipe to where it wont hit or rest on the bottom of the car.


Is there any clearance issues with the rbc I/M and the k24a1?

It is a tight fit but there is no trimming required.

03Si757
04-26-2008, 08:19 PM
I got it, I just adjusted the hight of the motor in the engine mounts, raising the front of the motor helped ALOT. Now just gotta figure out whats up with this clutch.

davisj3537
04-27-2008, 10:07 AM
I got it, I just adjusted the hight of the motor in the engine mounts, raising the front of the motor helped ALOT. Now just gotta figure out whats up with this clutch.

Cool man. Feel free to pm me if you have any questions.

MR.Pizza
05-02-2008, 12:29 AM
I had a question about what I need to do too get the axles out of the half shaft? I looked through your clutch install thread but I wasn't sure about what I needed to do to get the axles out of the transmission.

03Si757
05-02-2008, 05:33 AM
I had a question about what I need to do too get the axles out of the half shaft? I looked through your clutch install thread but I wasn't sure about what I needed to do to get the axles out of the transmission.

Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

MR.Pizza
05-02-2008, 07:30 AM
Cool thanks, that makes sense. So far everything is been alot easier than expected.

davisj3537
05-02-2008, 08:45 AM
Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

Hookin' up the info WOOT WOOT!:hug:

MR.Pizza
05-04-2008, 09:16 PM
I had to remove the core support today to squeeze the RBC in however its binding against it if I try to put the core support back in. Also it seems like it sits way to high for the hood to close. I have enjo front and rear motor mounts ( really stiff ), is their a way to move the engine position to get this to fit?

Also I had to swap the knock sensor with the a3 sensor due to the plug being different. I also totally mangled my radiator overflow tank when dropping the engine. Funny how so many people tell you they want to help out and never show up when it counts.

Thanks guys,

MR.Pizza
05-04-2008, 10:25 PM
I think I'm going to mess with the mounts and subframe for about 1 hour tomorrow and if I can't get the clearance for the RBC I'll leave it for another time. I really don't want too cut he core support or damage my hood. Still I hate giving up.:ballchain:

Lost03si
05-05-2008, 01:52 AM
Its actually pretty simple. Just have a little care when pulling out. For the driver side, use something similar to a pry bar and put it in between the transmission and the CV joint. DO NOT TUG on the the CV Axel. And as for the passenger side, use a narrow block of wood or something similar and a mallet and hit against the base of the CV axel closest to the transmission. May take a few wacks, but do not go to the extreme, it really is not as hard as it may look, I was afraid to do it, but its pretty strait forward. And if you plan on taking the axels out of the Knuckle (Wheel Hub) Just unscrew the big Axel Bolt (Have fun) and take a mallet and just give it a slight knock to the axel. It really is all strait forward. But I cant stress enough that you DO NOT TUG or PULL on the CV Axel.

Did you remove the strut bolts? The 2 17mm Bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle for extra slack? I was thinking that would give it lots of clearance to remove the axles from the trans. I was thinking of trying that method when I do my swap...

davisj3537
05-05-2008, 07:10 AM
Did you remove the strut bolts? The 2 17mm Bolts connecting the strut to the knuckle for extra slack? I was thinking that would give it lots of clearance to remove the axles from the trans. I was thinking of trying that method when I do my swap...

Not needed...just remove the lower control arms(19mm bolts). It gives PLENTY of slack.

davisj3537
05-05-2008, 07:12 AM
I had to remove the core support today to squeeze the RBC in however its binding against it if I try to put the core support back in. Also it seems like it sits way to high for the hood to close. I have enjo front and rear motor mounts ( really stiff ), is their a way to move the engine position to get this to fit?

Also I had to swap the knock sensor with the a3 sensor due to the plug being different. I also totally mangled my radiator overflow tank when dropping the engine. Funny how so many people tell you they want to help out and never show up when it counts.

Thanks guys,

That sucks dude. Mine BARELY fit but it did fit. Did you get a k24a1? I had no problems with the knock sensor...and the hood does need to be trimmed. You'll have to remove some of the fire retardant from the underside and possibly even cut into the bottom layer of the hood.

MR.Pizza
05-05-2008, 07:51 AM
That sucks dude. Mine BARELY fit but it did fit. Did you get a k24a1? I had no problems with the knock sensor...and the hood does need to be trimmed. You'll have to remove some of the fire retardant from the underside and possibly even cut into the bottom layer of the hood.

Yeah, it's for sure a k24a1. Papy special, I'll trim the hood and hammer mod the core support. I was also thinking I could put some washers in the side engine mounts to lower the engine a bit, any reason why this might be not recommended?

davisj3537
05-05-2008, 08:06 AM
Yeah, it's for sure a k24a1. Papy special, I'll trim the hood and hammer mod the core support. I was also thinking I could put some washers in the side engine mounts to lower the engine a bit, any reason why this might be not recommended?

I can't imagine why the knock sensor didn't work:mmph: Well for starters if you put spacers in then it will not lower the engine but maybe a cunt hair's worth cuz the lower two mounts don't really have any play. Plus if you lower the engine your rbc wont clear the radiator support...it will only get closer.

MR.Pizza
05-05-2008, 08:22 AM
I can't imagine why the knock sensor didn't work:mmph: Well for starters if you put spacers in then it will not lower the engine but maybe a cunt hair's worth cuz the lower two mounts don't really have any play. Plus if you lower the engine your rbc wont clear the radiator support...it will only get closer.

Yeah I was pretty alarmed when the clip didn't match, but I just swapped my ep knock sensor so no biggie. Papy said it was an 04'. Anyways your probably right about the mounts. If I could move the engine back 3/4 and inch I think it would fit perfect. Do you think adjusting the subframe would make a difference? I''l post some pic's tonight. Thanks again.

davisj3537
05-05-2008, 08:43 AM
Yeah I was pretty alarmed when the clip didn't match, but I just swapped my ep knock sensor so no biggie. Papy said it was an 04'. Anyways your probably right about the mounts. If I could move the engine back 3/4 and inch I think it would fit perfect. Do you think adjusting the subframe would make a difference? I''l post some pic's tonight. Thanks again.

Yeah the subframe would definately help a bit...not 3/4 inch though.

MR.Pizza
05-06-2008, 08:31 AM
Yeah the subframe would definately help a bit...not 3/4 inch though.

Ok well the hood closes and doesn't hit anything, man it didn't look like it was gonna I swear. Thats a tight fit, like crust on bread. Now I need to bleed my clutch lines.

tommykair20
04-09-2010, 12:12 PM
i just swap a k24a2 into my ep3, everything went smooth except that i start the car, car started stumble like gas problem, i thought it was going to go away after a little while but wronggg... car didnt not stop doing it... at first i went straight to the fuel regulator to see if that is the problem, but i keep adjusting it and not getting to the right place where is suppose to be, anyway after i keep changing the fuel pressure of the car i also went to the back of my car to see if the fuel pump is working properly and yes i turn the key pump start sending pressure and if a leave it there for about 6 second stop and release pressure, are my injectors bad??? i just got them like 5 month ago 650cc precision injectors, are they suppose to hold the pressure?or am i just right and my F****** fuel pressure regulator is bad???

hondaracr07
04-16-2010, 07:42 AM
anybody got a rough estimate on the price for a swap like this im lookin in to it for like later this summer

sidriverep3
04-27-2010, 06:51 AM
ughhh....getting ready to do this swap....again....

cleanep3
04-28-2010, 09:51 AM
Whats the Average prices on k24a1 and whats the horse power gains within a3 engine?

davisj3537
05-05-2010, 01:05 PM
I know I don't get on here and check on this thread enough but I updated a link and fixed a few things. Posts asking questions about anything other than the install should be addressed in another thread.

vicx52o
05-07-2010, 10:57 AM
Can I has free laborz if I answer question's on your behalf? :mangel:

davisj3537
05-07-2010, 02:48 PM
Wouldn't that be nice. lol. I actually think I might quit working on cars...I work too much already and school is wearing me thin. Its getting to the point where I almost make as much money at work as I do on cars.

vicx52o
05-07-2010, 06:08 PM
Whaat I see that new job is payin off dude. That's good to hear.

goldEp
05-08-2010, 06:01 PM
ok.. so i read and i was paying atention when sombody said.. they used the ep3 base map and bumped it up on fuel..
will it run if I ?? and is it safe if i?? use an ep3 oem none tuned ecu on a k24a1,a2..? with bolt ons..?