Common K24 questions answered

[davisj3537]

I got the specs on the motors from this link if you are looking for more info
http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43031


What are the common K24 motors that can be swapped and where do they come from?
K24a1 CRV 02-06
K24a2 TSX 04-08
K24a3 03-07 Overseas Accord (not common)
K24a4 03-05 Accord 03-06 Element

What are the compression ratios and hp specs of these motors?
K24a1- 9.6:1 160hp 162tq
K24a2- 10.5:1 200hp/205hp 166tq/164tq 04-05/06-07
K24a3- 10.5:1 189hp 164.5tq
K24a4- 9.7:1 160hp 161tq
The bore and stroke is 87mmX99mm on all of these.

I want to put an a2 head on a k24, which one should I buy?
Ok first of all if you swap a new head on you need a new head gasket and you pick the head gasket by the block bore and not the head.
k24a1-The a2 head bolts directly onto this block
K24a2-already has a tsx version of an a2 head
K24a3 K24a4-Have pistons that have a dome shape and you must change pistons to put any other head on this baby.

What about a z3 or k24a2 head on my K24?
Well these heads are bit different due to some coolant ports on the underside of the head. You need to buy the head gasket that matches the head and not the block like normal for this combo. You also need to purchase a coolant diverter to slide down in the block next to cylinder one. It is pictured here as part number 2. Everyone thank Doug for this great info.
http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TSX&catcgry2=2006&catcgry3=4DR+TSX&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+BLOCK-OIL+PAN&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List%20All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

Can I put an a3 head on my K24 block?
You can put it on the k24a1 or the k24a2 without any major modifications but you would be labeled an idiot for doing so. The a3 flows considerably worse than those k24 heads. If you are putting an ivtec head on then put on the k24a1 head which is about 200 bucks shipped.

Why can't I rev my K24a1/a3/a4 higher?
The bottom end is actually the limiting factor. When you rev too high the pistons no longer just move up and down...they begin to move eliptically and that is where you will see problems. The pistons in a k24 are moving faster @ 7k rpms than a s2000's pistons are moving @ 9k rpms. You don't need to rev high to make power in any of these motors. Unlike a k20 where you have to get up to 4k or 5k rpms before power is made, a k24 will make power from 2k all the way to redline. To sum it up if you must rev higher then you need forged pistons and rods and then top it off with a micropolished tsx(K24a2) crank. If you are counting pennies then you could always swap in the pistons and rods from a tsx too since they are fairly beefy.

Which motor is the most boost friendly?
K24a1-ready for boost just as it is since it has the lowest compression
K24a2-can handle boost just fine at low psi. This motor has the highest compression but really good internals.
K24a3-not reccomended for boost since it has a high compression ratio and the internals are not as strong as the k24a2.
K24a4-still decent for boost but has a slightly higher compression ratio than the k24a1. The rods are weak on this motor so don't expect to get alot of power out of it. The head is also very restrictive in regards to the a1 and a2 heads.

What do I need to drop these motors in my car?
The K24a1 and K24a4 can run on the stock ep3 ecu if you put in 310cc injectors from the rsx type s*. Kpro is a must for a k24a2 or a K24a3. Kpro is reccomended for all of these motors though. All of these motors require a specific header to clear the front sway or you can run without a front sway. A few headers that clear the front sway are the ep or type s specific dcrh or Strup, JRRH(hits slightly), SSR, Hytech. You need to use the exhaust gasket from the motor you are putting in.You need the passenger side motor mount from a crv to put any of these babies in your car. Check the link below and there is a picture of it and a link to buy it.

k24a1-drops right in with the requirements listed above.

K24a2 -you also have to swap the crank position sensor and use the ep3 thermostat and housing. You also have to tackle the coolant port issue on the head. You can either tap it and reroute it back or you can get the rbc intake manifold and karcepts adapter.

K24a3 K24a4-Everything the same as the k24a2 except you don't have to swap the crank position sensor.

For a more in depth look at this swap check out this link
http://ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43521

*Note if you are running the ep3 ecu and 310cc injectors then you need to remove your front sway and keep the stock header and cat. Any RH will let more exhaust gas out of the cylinders and not as much unburned fuel will stay in the cylinder and your engine will run lean.

Will aftermarket mounts work with this swap?
Yes! All aftermarket mounts on the market will work with this swap since the crv mount that you need to use replaces a different part of the mount.

Whats the best way to burp the coolant system?
If you don't do this correctly then you won't get the air out of the motor and you will overheat your car. Jack up the front of the car as far as possible(couple feet) and turn the heat on full blast on hot in the car. Remove the radiator cap and then start the car. You might even want to work the upper radiator hose a bit and push any air out into the radiator. Let it run atleast until the radiator fan comes on twice. Fill the radiator back up and you should be good to go.

From what car do I buy a clutch?
Well the easiest thing to do is to buy a clutch and flywheel for a type s. You can use the ep3 flywheel if you buy a clutchnet clutch from clutchnet.com. You have a much broader range of clutches to choose from if you get a type s flywheel though.

What oil pump upgrade options do I have?
Well there has been some debate on whether the a2 pump or the z3 pump is better. If you only want more power then the a2 pump is to your benefit. If you are looking for good idle oil pressure(maybe if you are running some cams) then the z3 might fit your fancy. Either way here is the stuff you need to put both in your car.
A2 http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=12560&highlight=tsx+oil+pump
Z3 http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43517&highlight=K24a1+shafts+pump

Will aftermarket k20a3 cams work in these motors?
K20a3 cams will drop right into the k24a1 and the k24a4. I am aware of no reason why they can't be put into the k24a3 but noone has done this to my knowledge. Now if you put cams in the k24a1 or a4 then you will definately need kpro since it consumes more fuel per mod than the a3 due to its extra displacement.

What cams do you suggest for a k24 w/ a 3 lobe vtec head?
06-07 tsx cams work great due to the large lobe on the low cam and prove to be good for extra tq down low making it more fun to drive around town.

Can I put the k24a1 head on my k20a3?
Yes you can. You will see decent gains. You should really have kpro for this but there are people dangerously running without it. Also remember to buy a head gasket for the k20a3 and not the k24a1. You also need an exhaust gasket for the k24a1 since it is a bit bigger.

Can I put K24a2 pistons in my k24a1/a3/a4 block?
Yes you can! It is a great way to get higher compression while still keeping a low budget. Don't forget that the k24a2 block has oil squirters that are not in the other blocks so those oil jets keep the pistons cooled down. Also someone correct me if I'm wrong but if you put tsx pistons in another block you have to use the tsx rods as well. I believe this is due to the design of the wrist pins?

How is the fitment for a rbc intake manifold on a k24?
Due to the extra height of the motor it clears the radiator support just BARELY. You might have to use a hammer to slightly dent in the radiator support if it just wont clear. There will be some trimming needed on the hood. You will have to remove some of the heat protective foam to fit it in there. The brake booster hose running to the throttle body sticks up kinda high.

What belt should I use on this motor?
I ran a 685k6 on the last swap I did and it works just fine even though it is only a 6 rib belt. If you can find one then you would want a 685k7 but like I said the k6 works just fine.

What NA Kpro Base map should I start with for a K24a1 or K24a4?
267

809
If you need help tuning or if you have a more aggressive setup and need a slightly modified base map let me know and I'll post up more as needed.

[davisj3537]

Sticky maybe? Since soo many people ask for it...

[JP_909]

Nice write up.

[thechromecoyote]

I want to put an a2 head on a k24 which one should I buy?
k24a1-The a2 head bolts directly onto this block
K24a2-already has a tsx version of an a2 head
K24a3 K24a4-Has pistons that have a dome shape and you must change pistons to put any other head on this baby



I vote sticky!

Edit :mbiggrin:

[davisj3537]

Any other questions you guys want to see answered?

[thechromecoyote]

Any other questions you guys want to see answered?

Maybe stock bore of each engine? :juggle: Might be some good info to know in case you are looking to buy internals.

Tons of this info is avail on k20a.org, but we should have our own stickies instead of just referring people to another forum.

Keep it in the family! EPhatch <3

[davisj3537]

Maybe stock bore of each engine? :juggle: Might be some good info to know in case you are looking to buy internals.

Tons of this info is avail on k20a.org, but we should have our own stickies instead of just referring people to another forum.

Keep it in the family! EPhatch <3

Its all in the very first link in the thread but I'll add it anyway.:biggrin: Updated

[thechromecoyote]

Its all in the very first link in the thread but I'll add it anyway.:biggrin:

This be true... but since its relevant it could use some cross posting... you know people will still ask :mangel:

Great job!

[davisj3537]

This be true... but since its relevant it could use some cross posting... you know people will still ask :mangel:

Great job!

Your right sir:usa2:

[epshtielsl]

Nice write up. I vote sticky.

[bchaney]

Very nice info, thanks for the write-up.

[clujalolo]

Sticky! One question. What kind of numbers can u expect with a k24a1 bottom and a k20a2 head? Will u lose some torque? Or is the torque going to stay the same and the hp will increase? I've always wondered about this.

[EP3_BR3EZE]

Great write up here too. Sticky this Mods as this is the new thing to do. Great info indeed

[davisj3537]

Sticky! One question. What kind of numbers can u expect with a k24a1 bottom and a k20a2 head? Will u lose some torque? Or is the torque going to stay the same and the hp will increase? I've always wondered about this.

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'd say with I/RH/E you should see 220whp and atleast 180tq tuned.

[az-epdrvr]

great post:usa2:

[shanewdude]

What about a K24Z3? Just curious... my dad just bought an '08 Accord with this in it.

[kprocivic]

What about a K24Z3? Just curious... my dad just bought an '08 Accord with this in it.

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43031

[clujalolo]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'd say with I/RH/E you should see 220whp and atleast 180tq tuned.

I sure like that torque number:mbiggrin:

[shanewdude]

http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=43031

I read the link... I was wondering if it is commonly swapped (didn't see it on this post). What is it like in a Civic?

[bchaney]

Can you use the stock cams from a k20a2 head with the k24 block?

[davisj3537]

I read the link... I was wondering if it is commonly swapped (didn't see it on this post). What is it like in a Civic?

The exhaust manifold is very oddly shaped and it not removable from the head. It needs some custom fabbing and brackets before anyone attempts it in our chassis...or any chassis for that matter.

[davisj3537]

Can you use the stock cams from a k20a2 head with the k24 block?
So you are talking about running the k24 block with an a2 head and keeping the stock cams? If that is your question then yes you can...the 06-07 tsx will work better though.

[davisj3537]

Bump for the addition of the K24 base map.

[Lost03si]

Davis, for the K24a1 swap. What Pilot bushing do I need, EP or CRV specific? Also what is the best method of installing it without of a special tool. I was just thinking of pounding it in with a stocket.

[davisj3537]

Davis, for the K24a1 swap. What Pilot bushing do I need, EP or CRV specific? Also what is the best method of installing it without of a special tool. I was just thinking of pounding it in with a stocket.

I think I used a 18mm socket to pound it in.lol. You can use either pilot bushing sir:mwink:

[ReD Line]

Dude u kick ass wit these write up's!!! nice man :mtongue:

[davisj3537]

Dude u kick ass wit these write up's!!! nice man :mtongue:

Thanks dude.

[03ep3]

Great writeup. Any differences between putting a JRSC on a k24a2 instead of on a k20a3? I have a k24a2 and an EP specific JRSC with a 3.2" pulley waiting to go into the car. Any different water port fixes with use of the JRSC? Recommended injector size? I also have a DC5 BCRH. Fitment issues? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[davisj3537]

The ep3 jrsc should bolt up just fine sir. I would reccomend 550s. They should treat you well sir. I have not seen a dc5 bcrh on a ep3 k24'd but I think it might just fit sir. I'd love to hear how it goes after you get it in.

[arthur]

what size are the stock crv injectors?? and what size are the ep3 injectors?

[davisj3537]

what size are the stock crv injectors?? and what size are the ep3 injectors?

270CC:becky:

[clizoman]

great!

[04cvcsi]

mad tight yo

[clujalolo]

How much hp can you expect with a k24a1/k20a2 turbo on stock internals. Also how much hp can it take before it blows.

[davisj3537]

How much hp can you expect with a k24a1/k20a2 turbo on stock internals. Also how much hp can it take before it blows.

I have heard the stock K24a1 will take 450whp. You can expect an easy 350whp and 300wtq on about 10-11lbs of boost depending on the size of the turbo you can get more or less.

[davisj3537]

I added anohter question regarding higher revs.

[clujalolo]

I have heard the stock K24a1 will take 450whp. You can expect an easy 350whp and 300wtq on about 10-11lbs of boost depending on the size of the turbo you can get more or less.

oo wow. sounds pretty good. ive just been researching. ill be buying a k24a1 pretty soon and a k20a2 head. so i wanna see my options. turbo does sound good.

[Guardian]

oo wow. sounds pretty good. ive just been researching. ill be buying a k24a1 pretty soon and a k20a2 head. so i wanna see my options. turbo does sound good.

if you want to see a boosted k24/20 watch my vids on you tube channel = guardian702

[clujalolo]

if you want to see a boosted k24/20 watch my vids on you tube channel = guardian702

oo yeh ive seen those to many times :mtongue:. Thats what making my decision, im leaning more towards boost, im thinking of getting the same exhaust, the Kteller 3".

was yours just stock internals?

[Guardian]

oo yeh ive seen those to many times :mtongue:. Thats what making my decision, im leaning more towards boost, im thinking of getting the same exhaust, the Kteller 3".

was yours just stock internals?

yeah k24a1 block , k20a2 head

[crhatch02]

mmmmmmmmmm K24

[MR.Pizza]

Car started first try, thanks for all the great info and keeping things going during the server issues. Rbc fits with no hood mods had to bend the support a bit though. I would say watching the hood close reminds me of 25 clowns getting into a mini cooper.:meek:

[davisj3537]

Car started first try, thanks for all the great info and keeping things going during the server issues. Rbc fits with no hood mods had to bend the support a bit though. I would say watching the hood close reminds me of 25 clowns getting into a mini cooper.:meek:

Lol. Good to hear man.:nod:

[Lucid Moments]

I want to rev higher...if I put the a2 head on my k24 I can rev to 8k right?
NO! The head is not the limiting factor on the k24s to keep them from revving high. The pistons are the limiting factor. When you rev too high the pistons no longer just move up and down...they begin to move eliptically and that is where you will see problems. The pistons in a k24 are moving faster @ 7k rpms than a s2000's pistons are moving @ 9k rpms. You don't need to rev high to make power in any of these motors. Unlike a k20 where you have to get up to 4k or 5k rpms before power is made, a k24 will make power from 2k all the way to redline. To sum it up if you must rev higher then you need forged pistons and rods and then top it off with a micropolished tsx(K24a2) crank.

I'm going to have to disagree with you a little bit here. This may be true for the K24A1/A4, but I had stock bottom end K24A2 with upgraded valvetrain. I was revving it to 8500 rpm and it held up just fine, and it did this for probably 20,000+ miles. The motor did end up having trouble totally unrelated to the rev limit, and the rods have been pulled and there is no sign of damage to the rods or the bearings or the pistons.

[davisj3537]

I'm going to have to disagree with you a little bit here. This may be true for the K24A1/A4, but I had stock bottom end K24A2 with upgraded valvetrain. I was revving it to 8500 rpm and it held up just fine, and it did this for probably 20,000+ miles. The motor did end up having trouble totally unrelated to the rev limit, and the rods have been pulled and there is no sign of damage to the rods or the bearings or the pistons.

Yes true it is geared a bit more towards the a1,a3,a4 but even on the k24a2 I wouldn't consider the head as the limiting factor to revving higher IMO. I'm also sure you didn't rag the shit out of your baby and rev it to 8500 all day long either. I'll edited the post. However I wouldn't reccomend most people revving their k24a2's to 8500.

[Lucid Moments]

Yes true it is geared a bit more towards the a1,a3,a4 but even on the k24a2 the head is not the limiting factor to revving higher. I'll fix her up a bit. However I wouldn't reccomend most people revving their k24a2's to 8500.

Most people won't make power that high. I didn't until I had a custom header, exhaust and intake made, and of course the IPS cams as well. You have to spend plenty of money for the right cams and supporting mods before its worth it to spin that high, but the bottom end just isn't as limiting as some people think.

[davisj3537]

Most people won't make power that high. I didn't until I had a custom header, exhaust and intake made, and of course the IPS cams as well. You have to spend plenty of money for the right cams and supporting mods before its worth it to spin that high, but the bottom end just isn't as limiting as some people think.

You may be right here sir. I'd love to see more instances where the stock k24s getted revved higher. You are completely right about the powerband. It does take the right setup to put down the ponies that high up.

[Guardian]

i rev mine to 7700 with 15 pounds of boost and it was still making power on the dyno

[davisj3537]

i rev mine to 7700 with 15 pounds of boost and it was still making power on the dyno

What motor are you running? Don't you have a stock k24a1 bottom w/ an a2 head?

[davisj3537]

I was revving my k24a1 @10lbs to 7500:mredface:

[davisj3537]

Why can't I rev my K24a1/a3/a4 higher?
The bottom end is actually the limiting factor. When you rev too high the pistons no longer just move up and down...they begin to move eliptically and that is where you will see problems. The pistons in a k24 are moving faster @ 7k rpms than a s2000's pistons are moving @ 9k rpms. You don't need to rev high to make power in any of these motors. Unlike a k20 where you have to get up to 4k or 5k rpms before power is made, a k24 will make power from 2k all the way to redline. To sum it up if you must rev higher then you need forged pistons and rods and then top it off with a micropolished tsx(K24a2) crank. If you are counting pennies then you could always swap in the pistons and rods from a tsx too since they are fairly beefy.



What do you guys think about this in comparison?

[Guardian]

What motor are you running? Don't you have a stock k24a1 bottom w/ an a2 head?

yes

[Guardian]

Why can't I rev my K24a1/a3/a4 higher?
The bottom end is actually the limiting factor. When you rev too high the pistons no longer just move up and down...they begin to move eliptically and that is where you will see problems. The pistons in a k24 are moving faster @ 7k rpms than a s2000's pistons are moving @ 9k rpms. You don't need to rev high to make power in any of these motors. Unlike a k20 where you have to get up to 4k or 5k rpms before power is made, a k24 will make power from 2k all the way to redline. To sum it up if you must rev higher then you need forged pistons and rods and then top it off with a micropolished tsx(K24a2) crank. If you are counting pennies then you could always swap in the pistons and rods from a tsx too since they are fairly beefy.



What do you guys think about this in comparison?

whats the difference in all k-series cranks

[Lucid Moments]

Why can't I rev my K24a1/a3/a4 higher?
The bottom end is actually the limiting factor. When you rev too high the pistons no longer just move up and down...they begin to move eliptically and that is where you will see problems. The pistons in a k24 are moving faster @ 7k rpms than a s2000's pistons are moving @ 9k rpms. You don't need to rev high to make power in any of these motors. Unlike a k20 where you have to get up to 4k or 5k rpms before power is made, a k24 will make power from 2k all the way to redline. To sum it up if you must rev higher then you need forged pistons and rods and then top it off with a micropolished tsx(K24a2) crank. If you are counting pennies then you could always swap in the pistons and rods from a tsx too since they are fairly beefy.



What do you guys think about this in comparison?

Sounds good:clap2:

[davisj3537]

whats the difference in all k-series cranks

Specifically I don't know. But I know the tsx crank is alot better for higher revs. Someone else chime in here.

[Lucid Moments]

whats the difference in all k-series cranks


Specifically I don't know. But I know the tsx crank is alot better for higher revs. Someone else chime in here.

I'm in the same boat you are. I've been told that the tsx crank is better, but nobody has ever said why exactly. Until fairly recently I was under the assumption that all the K24 cranks were the same.

[72chevel]

subscribed I want to build a big block!!!:mtongue:

[Guardian]

so what is assumed to be better k24a2 or a a2 crank?
i saw in a magazine that they did a frank build in and it said the k24a1 crank was the same as the k20a2:noidea:

[Ba82Ep3]

The a1 and a2 cranks definitely have different part #'s. But that may mean nothing, you know how Honda/Acura rolls.

I think Doug mentioned the CRV crank could be as good as a stock TSX crank if it was polished and re-balanced... but i dont think he mentioned where he got that info.

I havent ran across anything stating this to be true on k20a... but that isnt to say its the only place correct info can be found either.

[paulmofyourhand]

hey davis,

add some information on :
RBC clearance
k24a2 waterport mod
type-s pump install
k20z3 heads on k24a
transmission swaps

[arthur]

ill build a big block, but where i live none has experience with k engines!! more info is welcome!!

[davisj3537]

hey davis,

add some information on :
RBC clearance-Its already there
k24a2 waterport mod-Its in there but no detailed info. I'll see what I can find.
a2/z3 pump install-Just added sir. Good idea
k20z3 heads on k24a-I guess I'm failing to see how this differs from an a2 head swap with the coolant port issue.
transmission swaps-be more specific sir.

[clujalolo]

hey guardian, have you ever run your car NA at the track? (k24/k20) what kinda numbers do you see at the track. mid 14's?

[Guardian]

hey guardian, have you ever run your car NA at the track? (k24/k20) what kinda numbers do you see at the track. mid 14's?

no when i did the swap the turbo went right back on. when i sell my kit i will get it out to the track NA... with my slicks and bog

[MR.Pizza]

Ok well I just drove my swap home and got the famous overheat codes. I thought I burped it already but it took another half gallon when I got home. I ran the heat and I still don't get any heat.

Also I'm getting some pretty weird noises from the pulley area. It sounded like the idler but I can't really tell It's actually kind of scaring me. I'm gonna take the belt off and try to figure out which one is the culprit.

[paulmofyourhand]

hey davis,

add some information on :
RBC clearance-Its already there
k24a2 waterport mod-Its in there but no detailed info. I'll see what I can find.
a2/z3 pump install-Just added sir. Good idea
k20z3 heads on k24a-I guess I'm failing to see how this differs from an a2 head swap with the coolant port issue.
transmission swaps-be more specific sir.

lol, maybe i should have read the post instead of just skimming through it.

trans- which would be ur personal choice . i.e.- 5spd for boost, 02-04 rsx-s for n/a, (but that might be for a diff diy?), which clutch /flywheel to buy (car specific),

[davisj3537]

Ok well I just drove my swap home and got the famous overheat codes. I thought I burped it already but it took another half gallon when I got home. I ran the heat and I still don't get any heat.

Also I'm getting some pretty weird noises from the pulley area. It sounded like the idler but I can't really tell It's actually kind of scaring me. I'm gonna take the belt off and try to figure out which one is the culprit.

Jack up the front of the car as far as you can and then burp it:mwink:

[davisj3537]

lol, maybe i should have read the post instead of just skimming through it.

trans- which would be ur personal choice . i.e.- 5spd for boost, 02-04 rsx-s for n/a, (but that might be for a diff diy?), which clutch /flywheel to buy (car specific),

Will do sir:dance:

[talonXracer]

One little item to note, if you use a Z3/K24A2 style head(coolant outlet on the end of the head rather than the side like the A2 and A3) requires you to use a matching headgasket(not by the block as is usually customary) and the installation of a coolant divertor.

They have significantly different headgaskets and resulting coolant flow.

[davisj3537]

I added some clutch info and a how to burp the coolant system.

[davisj3537]

One little item to note, if you use a Z3/K24A2 style head(coolant outlet on the end of the head rather than the side like the A2 and A3) requires you to use a matching headgasket(not by the block as is usually customary) and the installation of a coolant divertor.

They have significantly different headgaskets and resulting coolant flow.

I see what you are saying about the head gasket. How about the coolant diverter...I'm afraid I lost you there.

[talonXracer]

I see what you are saying about the head gasket. How about the coolant diverter...I'm afraid I lost you there.

Ah the little coolant divertor, it is also called a Partition Plate, It is placed into the cooling jacket right between the inlet from the waterpump and the #1 cylinder sleeve. It helps route coolant across the front of the cylinders where the A2 style engine overheats and causes block warpage on the #2 and #3 cylinders, even without any other signs of overheating, like temp #'s.

part#2 in this link http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TSX&catcgry2=2006&catcgry3=4DR+TSX&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+BLOCK-OIL+PAN&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List%20All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

[davisj3537]

Ah the little coolant divertor, it is also called a Partition Plate, It is placed into the cooling jacket right between the inlet from the waterpump and the #1 cylinder sleeve. It helps route coolant across the front of the cylinders where the A2 style engine overheats and causes block warpage on the #2 and #3 cylinders, even without any other signs of overheating, like temp #'s.

part#2 in this link http://www.acuraautomotiveparts.org/acura/jsp/mws/prddisplay.jsp?inputstate=5&catcgry1=TSX&catcgry2=2006&catcgry3=4DR+TSX&catcgry4=KA6MT&catcgry5=CYLINDER+BLOCK-OIL+PAN&ListAll=All&vinsrch=no&systemcomp=List%20All&vinnoT=&trim=&trans=&view=normal

Ok I'll add it to the thread. Thanks Doug:drum:

[talonXracer]

I disassembled a S2k oil pump yesterday and it appears to have the same rotors as the Z3 pump. I couldnt actually check measurements, or do a side by side comparison, as the Z3 oil pump is all assembled and at my home shop, but they appear to be the same. Another positive for the Z3 pump.

[davisj3537]

I disassembled a S2k oil pump yesterday and it appears to have the same rotors as the Z3 pump. I couldnt actually check measurements, or do a side by side comparison, as the Z3 oil pump is all assembled and at my home shop, but they appear to be the same. Another positive for the Z3 pump.

Really? Go z3 pump:clap2:

[ostrified]

what are the downsides to running a k24 with a 5-speed?

[davisj3537]

what are the downsides to running a k24 with a 5-speed?

It might not strike as much fear in the hearts of the women and children.lol. It is gonna get bad gas mileage and it will be a tad slower than the 6spd.

[pynikal]

so how does the ESP transfer over to the k24?? is it just like power steering delete on the 24 and we still have it because of the ESP??

[Lucid Moments]

so how does the ESP transfer over to the k24?? is it just like power steering delete on the 24 and we still have it because of the ESP??

ESP is totally unaffected by the K24 swap. Still works just fine.

[pynikal]

so you just take the power steering pump off the k24??? right??
can you just use the a3 belt or is there a custom belt lenght that you have to have?

[Lucid Moments]

so you just take the power steering pump off the k24??? right??
can you just use the a3 belt or is there a custom belt lenght that you have to have?

You don't use a power steering pump at all. The EPS doesn't use a power steering pump. As for belt length I'm not certain, you do need a different length because the K24 crank pulley is larger, but since mine is s/c I use a different belt length than you will need. Somebody here will know.

[sloweredcivic]

Been searching, does any know what kind of mileage you get with a k24a1 the 310cc injectors and stock ecu?? K-pro is not out of the question but if its not that bad then i would save my money. Also the pro's and cons of the 5 speed or 6 speed. I use this car for work and gas mileage, just want more power for fun and passing people etc...

[davisj3537]

I got over 30mpg with the 310 injectors with a little better 6spd...but a normal 6spd should yield atleast 28.

[davisj3537]

Ok so I did another k24 swap this weekend and it really helps to get a new belt. You CAN use the stock a3 belt but unless you are fucking wicked awesome with some ghetto tactics you wont be able to get it on. The belt I used is a 685k6. Optimally you are looking for a 685k7 but I have not found one. I rocked out with a 6 rib for quite a long time and never had any problems.

[bchaney]

What intakes fit a k24 on an ep chassis?

[pynikal]

Ok so I did another k24 swap this weekend and it really helps to get a new belt. You CAN use the stock a3 belt but unless you are fucking wicked awesome with some ghetto tactics you wont be able to get it on. The belt I used is a 685k6. Optimally you are looking for a 685k7 but I have not found one. I rocked out with a 6 rib for quite a long time and never had any problems.


thanks for that info. and i want sense is it a bitch to get the stock belt on??
is it just uber tight??

[pynikal]

i was reading the first page again and noticed that you need the (ithink) passenger side motor mount from the crv. does anyone make a motor mount kit for this swap? because when do this i would like to get good motor mounts as well.

[Blaine]

Sticky Or Ban Me!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Lucid Moments]

i was reading the first page again and noticed that you need the (ithink) passenger side motor mount from the crv. does anyone make a motor mount kit for this swap? because when do this i would like to get good motor mounts as well.

You use motor mounts for the EP, so you can get Hasport, Innovative, Avid and I'm not sure who else.

[pynikal]

You use motor mounts for the EP, so you can get Hasport, Innovative, Avid and I'm not sure who else.

so if you get one of these aftermarket motor mount sets you dont have to use the crv passenger side mount??

[Lucid Moments]

so if you get one of these aftermarket motor mount sets you dont have to use the crv passenger side mount??

No, you still have to use the CRV passenger side mount. Nobody makes a replacement for that that I know of. But that mount doesn't take much of the strain of the motor anyway. Rear mount is most important, front is next. Honestly if you have those two mounts you should be good for almost anything anyway.

[pynikal]

i never really looked. there are only three mounts on this motor???:noidea:

[pynikal]

i am also concerned about the flexpipe on the RH.

[davisj3537]

There are four mounts for the motor. Don't sweat about the flex pipe. It will be fine. The mount kit replaces a different portion of the mount so you still need the crv passenger mount. Enjo also makes a front and rear mount kit but I wouldn't reccomend them.

[Lucid Moments]

i never really looked. there are only three mounts on this motor???:noidea:

There is a tranny mount also. So a total of four. Most kits that I know of only come with the rear, front, and tranny mount. Hasport only makes the rear mount.

[davisj3537]

Innovative comes with the tranny/passenger/rear. You can also order the front seperately if you like. The tranny mount holes never line up and take custom fabbing.

Enjo only comes with the front and back. For the rear mount you have to get your own nuts and bolts.

Hasport I'm not sure but I would be willing to say their mounts are prob better than the other two companies....

[pynikal]

i have heard a lot of good things about innovative mounts.

and also is the type s 6spd a direct bolt?

[davisj3537]

i have heard a lot of good things about innovative mounts.

and also is the type s 6spd a direct bolt?

It is a direct bolt on. You WILL have to enlarge the mount holes for the innovative tranny mount.

[pynikal]

one more question.....
what kind of power can i expect to make with the k24a1, stock, and with RH, good Kpro tune, and IM??

[davisj3537]

Stock it should be putting down around 140whp and 140wtq maybe a tad less. With CAI/RH/E/IM/Tune you are looking at180whp and 175wtq fairly easily.

[skoundrelusa]

Any other questions you guys want to see answered?

Would a bone stock K24A2 in a EP3 be able to pass emissions?

[davisj3537]

Would a bone stock K24A2 in a EP3 be able to pass emissions?

With kpro absolutely...any motor w/ kpro can pass if its bone stock...unless your state has swap regulations.

[pynikal]

Stock it should be putting down around 140whp and 140wtq maybe a tad less. With CAI/RH/E/IM/Tune you are looking at180whp and 175wtq fairly easily.

wow that much wit hjust bolt ons?!?! sounds good!
mmmmm...after that maybe cams and N20

[phill]

great post, never saw this

[Kodeen]

I thought I read something pre-crash that the K24 transmissions (and I'm specifically thinking of the K24A2 transmission) will not fit in our engine bay, and that you'll have to use something from the K20 series. Confirmation?

[davisj3537]

I thought I read something pre-crash that the K24 transmissions (and I'm specifically thinking of the K24A2 transmission) will not fit in our engine bay, and that you'll have to use something from the K20 series. Confirmation?

Yes very true. The tsx tranny will not bolt up due to the shifting mechanism. The rsx I think can bolt it in with a custom mount that can be fabbed up I think...but they also have to use the tsx shifter.

[Kodeen]

So what do you would make for a better mate to a K24A2 - a K20A2 tranny with stock gearing or a K20A3 tranny with the TSX 6th gear and a different FD, maybe 4.3?

[davisj3537]

What I did was used the rsx tranny and then still used the tsx 6th. It still has agressive 1-5 and then the 6th makes for awesome highway mileage:mbiggrin:

[bchaney]

What intakes fit a k24 on an ep chassis?

Good question.

[pynikal]

should be the same ones that fit on the k20a3. depending on if you have a IM or not. isnt the bend off the IM alittle different on some of these??

[davisj3537]

should be the same ones that fit on the k20a3. depending on if you have a IM or not. isnt the bend off the IM alittle different on some of these??

Yeah they are all a bit different..however I have put all kinds of cais on different k24 setups and they all fit just fine. You might not be able to put the lower bolt on the cai down by the fender but it wont go anywhere.

[grindin gears]

sticky!!!

[clujalolo]

got another q's. what would a k24a1/k20a2 with a SC have in hp/tq #'s.

[pynikal]

sticky!!!


this gets bumped to the top enuf that i dont think it needs sticky!!:mtongue:

[davisj3537]

got another q's. what would a k24a1/k20a2 with a SC have in hp/tq #'s.

Depends on the boost. I have not sc'ed a k24a2 hybrid so someone else needs to snag this question.

this gets bumped to the top enuf that i dont think it needs sticky!!:mtongue:

It is stickied.lol.

[03Si757]

got another q's. what would a k24a1/k20a2 with a SC have in hp/tq #'s.

Iv seen on CRSX a dude with that build stock k24 block and TSX cams on the A2 head running 7psi put down 307hp/231tq on a dynojet. Pretty good numbers.

[brandan_renner]

can u still fit a full race kit on or will it hit the hood

[davisj3537]

can u still fit a full race kit on or will it hit the hood

Anything that does not require trimming on the hood previous to a k24 can fit. The engine is a little less than 1 inch taller...there is nearly an inch of heat protective foam on the bottom of the hood not to mention you can cut slots in the bottom layer of the hood if needed.

[02blacksi]

"Can I put the k24a1 head on my k20a3?
Yes you can. You will see decent gains. You should really have kpro for this but there are people running without it. Also remember to buy a head gasket for the k20a3 and not the k24a1. You also need an exhaust gasket for the k24a1 since it is a bit bigger."


Besides a intake manifold gasket and the ones noted above, is there anything else I should replace or need while doing this head swap? Also where is a good place to find the Head gasket and exhaust gasket?

[03Si757]

"Can I put the k24a1 head on my k20a3?
Yes you can. You will see decent gains. You should really have kpro for this but there are people running without it. Also remember to buy a head gasket for the k20a3 and not the k24a1. You also need an exhaust gasket for the k24a1 since it is a bit bigger."


Besides a intake manifold gasket and the ones noted above, is there anything else I should replace or need while doing this head swap? Also where is a good place to find the Head gasket and exhaust gasket?

The exhaust gasket is bigger? I didnt notice when I swapped for the K24. Hmm, ima have to check this.

[davisj3537]

"Can I put the k24a1 head on my k20a3?
Yes you can. You will see decent gains. You should really have kpro for this but there are people running without it. Also remember to buy a head gasket for the k20a3 and not the k24a1. You also need an exhaust gasket for the k24a1 since it is a bit bigger."


Besides a intake manifold gasket and the ones noted above, is there anything else I should replace or need while doing this head swap? Also where is a good place to find the Head gasket and exhaust gasket?

You don't need a new intake manifold gasket as they are the same size to my knowledge. You can get those gaskets from honda.:eyebrows:

The exhaust gasket is bigger? I didnt notice when I swapped for the K24. Hmm, ima have to check this.

Yes sir it is. Are you losing some hp sir?:pout:

[03Si757]

You don't need a new intake manifold gasket as they are the same size to my knowledge. You can get those gaskets from honda.:eyebrows:


Yes sir it is. Are you losing some hp sir?:pout:

Who knows lol. Ill check today. Thats something I didnt notice. I thought the gaskets were all the same size for intake and exhaust. So. Do I need a K24 gasket? or a Type-S gasket since im using a type-S header?

[03Si757]

Who knows lol. Ill check today. Thats something I didnt notice. I thought the gaskets were all the same size for intake and exhaust. So. Do I need a K24 gasket? or a Type-S gasket since im using a type-S header?

NVM, answered my own question today when I checked it out, The holes diameters are larger, So I just got a K24 gasket. Iv noticed I no longer have a slight back fire when going into 2nd.

[davisj3537]

NVM, answered my own question today when I checked it out, The holes diameters are larger, So I just got a K24 gasket. Iv noticed I no longer have a slight back fire when going into 2nd.

That sounds like an upgrade to me sir.lol.

[03Si757]

That sounds like an upgrade to me sir.lol.

It is just another thing I can add to my "DOPE!" list for this swap. Waiting on my front Innovative mount (Ordered 2 weeks ago, slow BS shipping) and my KPro :heh:

[davisj3537]

It is just another thing I can add to my "DOPE!" list for this swap. Waiting on my front Innovative mount (Ordered 2 weeks ago, slow BS shipping) and my KPro :heh:

When you get kpro hit me up. You can just email me datalogs and I'll send you a new tune will get it running optimal:msmile:

[02blacksi]

NVM, answered my own question today when I checked it out, The holes diameters are larger, So I just got a K24 gasket. Iv noticed I no longer have a slight back fire when going into 2nd.

lol this is why im asking so many questions. Just ordered my head gasket and exhaust gasket from honda. The woman on the phone sounded kinda clueless though.. I better get the right parts or there will be some :censored::drama:

[03Si757]

lol this is why im asking so many questions. Just ordered my head gasket and exhaust gasket from honda. The woman on the phone sounded kinda clueless though.. I better get the right parts or there will be some :censored::drama:

Ya good luck with that man, I ordered a boot band for the steering racks boot back when I was having that steering wheel rack and I was trying to get the clip off and ended up destroying it, and Spent $5 for the damn band and got the wrong one lol. Best bet is to spend the extra few bucks and get it from a dealer.

[02blacksi]

well my g/f just picked up my parts/gaskets up from Honda and well for the exhaust gasket they gave me a doughnut gasket...:phone: called them back and told them again to order the exhaust manifold gasket. (i knew that lady had no clue):noidea:

[davisj3537]

Those fuckers.:frusty:

[Kodeen]

Will the RBB (from TSX) intake manifold mounted on a K24 fit in the engine bay?

[davisj3537]

Will the RBB (from TSX) intake manifold mounted on a K24 fit in the engine bay?

Yes sir it will. It actually makes for some good power down low.

[pynikal]

what is this RBB you speak of??

[davisj3537]

what is this RBB you speak of??

TSX

[03Si757]

what is this RBB you speak of??

a Really Big Butt!

[Kodeen]

what is this RBB you speak of??


TSX

That's correct. The runners bend down instead of sticking straight out like the RBC. Here's a picture.

http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com//pictures/VEHICLE/2006/Acura/100668209/2006.acura.tsx.20030355-E.jpg

I'd like to run an airbox for the swap that I'm planning, but since it has that angle at the throttle body, I'm pretty sure I wouldn't be able to use the stock airbox elbow. Do you know an elbow that would work, Davis?

[pynikal]

is it a part of the intake manifold??

[Kodeen]

No, it's that thick hose that goes from the manifold to the airbox. You can remove it from both pieces.

[davisj3537]

Thats kinda tricky...maybe take a look at a tsx air box and see if it would fit? At that point though it is almost worth just going aftermarket...

[Kodeen]

I'd like to use some airbox (stock or aftermarket) since I don't want the heatsoak of an SRI or the threat of hydrolock from the CAI. The TSX airbox doesn't look like it would fit, and if you were able to put it where our stock airbox is, you'd run into the same issues. Here's a better picture:

http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com//pictures/EI/2006/Acura/2006.acura.tsx.20089099-E.jpg

I've thought about going to a dealership to just at various engine bays and their elbows. I guess you could take a TSX elbow and cut it, but I'd rather have a complete piece.

[02nhbpep3]

Man it sucks not having all the old write ups anymore, this may be a repeated questing but the k24a1 doesnt require the coolant mod to put on a rbc i.m does it? And is anybody having problems with the DCRH knocking on the sway?

[davisj3537]

Kodeen I really don't think you are going to find a just plain old one piece elbow...it will take some custom fabbing.

nhbp- You have to cut the rbc since the k24a1 head does not have the coolant port. I have done 3 k24a1 swaps now and all of them have had the type s dcrh and none have knocked.:bump2:

[02nhbpep3]

O ok no prob just 1 more thing on the list to do for the swap, mainly that, crv mount, 330's from the rsx and DCRH to at least get her running. Does anybody happen to have the diy saved for the coolant port mod?

[davisj3537]

O ok no prob just 1 more thing on the list to do for the swap, mainly that, crv mount, 330's from the rsx and DCRH to at least get her running. Does anybody happen to have the diy saved for the coolant port mod?

You don't have to do the coolant port mod if it is a k24a1.

[pynikal]

so as far as intake and exhaust mani's i need to use the DCRH from the type-s, and either the stock intake mani or can i use this one??
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/EP3AIIM.html
and for injectors the type-s 330s, crv passenger mount, and k-pro (optional)

am i missing anything from this list besides the motor?!?!?

[davisj3537]

Let me make a quick note about the optional kpro issue. Running the ep3 ecu and 310cc injectors is for a completely stock motor. You would have to remove the front sway and run your stock header and cat. The header is going to help to get more fuel out of the cylinders and not be reused. Hence it might run lean. Everyone seems to want to push the envelope on this optional kpro thing. If you don't have kpro then you don't put on bolt ons:mconfused:

[03Si757]

Let me make a quick note about the optional kpro issue. Running the ep3 ecu and 310cc injectors is for a completely stock motor. You would have to remove the front sway and run your stock header and cat. The header is going to help to get more fuel out of the cylinders and not be reused. Hence it might run lean. Everyone seems to want to push the envelope on this optional kpro thing. If you don't have kpro then you don't put on bolt ons:mconfused:

I can confirm this. GET KPRO!!

[02nhbpep3]

nhbp- You have to cut the rbc since the k24a1 head does not have the coolant port. :bump2:

A couple days ago you said I did have to mod the intake mani.

[davisj3537]

A couple days ago you said I did have to mod the intake mani.

The head does not have the coolant port. The rbc is designed for a head with a coolant port. That portion of the rbc has to be cut off. Reread what you qouted me on. The coolant port mod is when you tap into the head and reroute the coolant back into the system so it doens't overheat. Used on alot of the better heads.

[pynikal]

so with bolt on i NEED k-pro. so ill add that to the list.

thanks for the info. im sure ill have more questions as the time grows closer.

[02nhbpep3]

The head does not have the coolant port. The rbc is designed for a head with a coolant port. That portion of the rbc has to be cut off. Reread what you qouted me on. The coolant port mod is when you tap into the head and reroute the coolant back into the system so it doens't overheat. Used on alot of the better heads.

I see what your saying now, thanks. Is a dremel the weapon of choice? And I'm guessing it's just a small piece that has to be cut off of the corner of the rbc? Anybody happen to have pics of the cut rbc?

[davisj3537]

I see what your saying now, thanks. Is a dremel the weapon of choice? And I'm guessing it's just a small piece that has to be cut off of the corner of the rbc? Anybody happen to have pics of the cut rbc?
A saw is gonna be your first weapon of choice. Then move to a right angle grinder and finish with a dremel. It is a rather large cut you have to make. I didn't enjoy the 30 minutes I spent cutting it with aluminum shavings all over my dumbass. What you can do is take off your intake manifold or use a IMG and hold it in place on the rbc. Use a sharpee on the edge of it and cut away.

[supercivician]

anyone has clearance problem with strut bar with k24??

[Lucid Moments]

anyone has clearance problem with strut bar with k24??

You talking about a strut tower bar? If so then no, it doesn't even come remotely close.

[davisj3537]

^YEAH THAT BIATCHES:mtongue:

[02nhbpep3]

Gotcha, thanks for the help davisj

[02blacksi]

well now that I finally have all my gaskets for the k24a1 head ready to go... I just found out today that the head I had ordered was tested and is cracked! So Im back at square 1. Looking for a k24a1 head.

[pynikal]

whats the better motor the a1 or the a4. i know that the a4 is one point higher comp ratio. but other than thatare there any other differences??

[02nhbpep3]

whats the better motor the a1 or the a4. i know that the a4 is one point higher comp ratio. but other than thatare there any other differences??

The a1 imo, if you ever decide to go with another head you will have to change the pistons/rods on the a4, and the a1 head outflows the a4 also.

[davisj3537]

^yeah that and the a1 rods are stronger than the a4.

[Lucid Moments]

^yeah that and the a1 block is stronger than the a4.

Hows that? I thought that the castings were virtually identical?

[davisj3537]

Hows that? I thought that the castings were virtually identical?

The rods are thicker are they not?editing in progress

[Lucid Moments]

The rods are thicker are they not?editing in progress

They quite possibly are, but what does that have to do with the block?:meek::mcool::mconfused:

[davisj3537]

Well normally it is a rod getting thrown that is the demise of most blocks...right?

[Lucid Moments]

That is more or less true. But the rod is still not part of the block. If I shoot a block with a shotgun (slug) that will cause the block to fail too. Does that mean the shotgun is part of the block?:meek::mbiggrin::confused:

[davisj3537]

That is more or less true. But the rod is still not part of the block. If I shoot a block with a shotgun (slug) that will cause the block to fail too. Does that mean the shotgun is part of the block?:meek::mbiggrin::confused:

You qouted the second quote of mine here earlier...did you not notice this? The first quote is what I corrected immediately.

^yeah that and the a1 rods are stronger than the a4.



The rods are thicker are they not?editing in progress

[Lucid Moments]

You qouted the second quote of mine here earlier...did you not notice this? The first quote is what I corrected immediately.

My bad, I didn't see the edit. :mredface::wave:

[davisj3537]

My bad, I didn't see the edit. :mredface::wave:

:grouphug:

[pynikal]

ep love.:msmile:

[davisj3537]

I updated it a bit and added some more goodies and questions.:violin:

[03Si757]

Hey man, whats the draw backs for running lean?

[02nhbpep3]

Anybody swapped a k24a1 and used the stock clutch? My clutch seems to be holding up pretty well and I am coming very close to my spending budget and it looks like the clutch is going to be a little while longer due to me having to drive my tahoe and gas prices being horrible. I am without a doubt changing it by christmas due to upcoming boost plans, but will I be fine for a couple months?
Mods on order:
K24A1
Kpro
DCRH
Current mods:
Injen CAI
HKS Hi-power
and I'll be using the a3 Intake manifold btw.

[03Si757]

Ya, your stock clutch should be more then fine, just check to see if the disc seems to have a decent amount of grip left, but im sure if its not slipping now, itll be some time before itll even show signs of wear, just stay away from launching it hard and youll be fine.

[davisj3537]

Hey man, whats the draw backs for running lean?

Your cylinder temps get too hot since the fuel cools them down. You aren't getting enough fuel so the temp gets too high.

[davisj3537]

Anybody swapped a k24a1 and used the stock clutch? My clutch seems to be holding up pretty well and I am coming very close to my spending budget and it looks like the clutch is going to be a little while longer due to me having to drive my tahoe and gas prices being horrible. I am without a doubt changing it by christmas due to upcoming boost plans, but will I be fine for a couple months?
Mods on order:
K24A1
Kpro
DCRH
Current mods:
Injen CAI
HKS Hi-power
and I'll be using the a3 Intake manifold btw.

Well with the a3 you would be fine but with all the extra tq from the k24a1 it will prob slip. The clutch is not designed for that much tq.

[02nhbpep3]

Just got my esmm's in today, I thought the inserts were red? The ones I got are black, is there any difference?

[Lenus]

Why it is recommend to upgrade to the A2 or Z3 oil pump? is it a must in turbocharged k24's??

[03Si757]

Just got my esmm's in today, I thought the inserts were red? The ones I got are black, is there any difference?

Ya there exactly the same, the color doesnt mean anything. Its more of a visual thing.

[02nhbpep3]

Sweet thanks for the response

[davisj3537]

Ya there exactly the same, the color doesnt mean anything. Its more of a visual thing.

Uh actually that is not the case. The black ones have graphite in them making them stiffer.:mwink:

[davisj3537]

Why it is recommend to upgrade to the A2 or Z3 oil pump? is it a must in turbocharged k24's??

They just provide more oil. The a2 doesn't have balance shafts so it will net you about 9ftlbs of tq by swapping it in...the z3 doens't give more power but gives great idle oil pressure. The a2 and z3 give great high rpm oil delivery:mcool:

[Kodeen]

Would a stock RSX-S header and cat mounted on a K24 clear an EM2 from sway bar?

[02nhbpep3]

Uh actually that is not the case. The black ones have graphite in them making them stiffer.:mwink:

Even better!

[davisj3537]

Would a stock RSX-S header and cat mounted on a K24 clear an EM2 from sway bar?

I'm pretty sure it does:mwink:I don't remember who is running it to save my life but someone is and they are fairly prominant around the boards.

[02nhbpep3]

Is the waterpump the same from the k20a3 -> k24a1?

[davisj3537]

Is the waterpump the same from the k20a3 -> k24a1?

I could swear it is...I have used both on different swaps and not had any problems if I remember correctly.

[Lenus]

yeah that ^^. I'm currently using a k24a1 waterpump on my k20a3 motor... it's a pain in the A$$ to change it.

[02nhbpep3]

yeah that ^^. I'm currently using a k24a1 waterpump on my k20a3 motor... it's a pain in the A$$ to change it.

And what do you mean by a pain in the ass to change? Did you have to mod anything for it to fit or are you just talking about changing the pump while the motor is still in the car?

[02nhbpep3]

My k24a1 came in today and the crank pulley has about half of the outter lip chipped off. Is this going to be a problem and if so can I just swap the a3 over to it?

[Lost03si]

And what do you mean by a pain in the ass to change? Did you have to mod anything for it to fit or are you just talking about changing the pump while the motor is still in the car?

I think he is talking about installing the W/P while the motor is still in.

[03Si757]

I think he is talking about installing the W/P while the motor is still in.

Is that even possible? if so your probably better off pulling the motor out. that seems like alot of work.

[Lenus]

yeah I was talking about doing it will the motor is in. No mods to the waterpump!



Is that even possible? if so your probably better off pulling the motor out. that seems like alot of work.

no man, all you need are skinny hands, long tools, a friend, and the most important thing, a couple of beers :mbiggrin:

[davisj3537]

My k24a1 came in today and the crank pulley has about half of the outter lip chipped off. Is this going to be a problem and if so can I just swap the a3 over to it?

Use the a3 one:mcool:Same size anyway

[talonXracer]

Just got my esmm's in today, I thought the inserts were red? The ones I got are black, is there any difference?


No difference at all with the ESMM inserts, they have the same exact durometer rating. Yes the black inserts have Graphite in the urethane matrix, but it does not make them stiffer, only better for suspension bushings that see movement, so motor mounts will see nothing.

[02nhbpep3]

Use the a3 one:mcool:Same size anyway

Anybody have a trick to getting it off or do I need a special tool?

[talonXracer]

You need to either get the proper crank pulley tool,

or use a breaker bar on the crank bolt with the handle end jammed against the floor and bump the starter.

[davisj3537]

No difference at all with the ESMM inserts, they have the same exact durometer rating. Yes the black inserts have Graphite in the urethane matrix, but it does not make them stiffer, only better for suspension bushings that see movement, so motor mounts will see nothing.

Interesting. I didn't know that:bathbaby:Learn something every day on here.

[davisj3537]

You need to either get the proper crank pulley tool,

or use a breaker bar on the crank bolt with the handle end jammed against the floor and bump the starter.

Nice!

[Lenus]

I have another question, can i put in a k24a1 clutch and flywheel on the a3? the thing is that I am having problems getting into gears and i think its my stage 4 comp clutch that took a dump. Since i have a complete k24 and my car is a daily driver, I was thinking of putting the k24 clutch and flywheel meanwhile i get another stage 4 comp clutch and a2 flywheel.

[03Si757]

I have another question, can i put in a k24a1 clutch and flywheel on the a3? the thing is that I am having problems getting into gears and i think its my stage 4 comp clutch that took a dump. Since i have a complete k24 and my car is a daily driver, I was thinking of putting the k24 clutch and flywheel meanwhile i get another stage 4 comp clutch and a2 flywheel.

Adjust the CMC pushrod, put it in a little more. Maybe even bleed the system a bit.

[Lenus]

I already bleed the system. I'm going to adjust de cmc and see if that helps

[davisj3537]

Adjust the cmc first and then if you can't get it to work then you CAN throw in the k24a1 clutch and fly but why put that in when you will have to pull it out in a month or so anyway....

[talonXracer]

The K24 fly and clutch should bolt up fine.

And if you mostly DD then the stage4 clutchs are not your best bet, they dont have a long lifespan at all on the street. I wouldnt go more than a kevlar stage3

[&REY]

I've found k24a1 that i want to buy and I have couple questions


1. I need bracket for rear mount from cr-v? does anyone know the exact part number?

2.Does EM2 15.9mm sway bar clear stock exhaust manifold?

3. Should I change the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets?

4. Is there anything else I will need, except of 310cc rsx-s injectors?

[Lucid Moments]

I've found k24a1 that i want to buy and I have couple questions


1. I need bracket for rear mount from cr-v? does anyone know the exact part number?

2.Does EM2 15.9mm sway bar clear stock exhaust manifold?

3. Should I change the exhaust and intake manifold gaskets?

4. Is there anything else I will need, except of 310cc rsx-s injectors?

1. 2002+ CRV motor mount bracket Honda Part # 11910-PPA-000. Its the passenger side motor mount bracket, not the rear. Use the stock rear, or a stock replacement like the Hasport or whatever.

2. I believe it will, but not certain.

3. I would just because you have that shit off anyway but that is just me. I don't think its actually required though.

4. I can't remember how the water port is on the K24A1 head. Someone will answer on here about that, but other than that possibility I can't think of anything required. k-pro is of course strongly suggested, but not a requirement if you are staying with the stock header etc...

[C4pT X]

what are the compatible years for the type s flywheel?

[whatisthis]

Thanks for all the feedback guys. I'd say with I/RH/E you should see 220whp and atleast 180tq tuned.

what about this combo with full bolt-ons and 06+ tsx cams? also does anyone happen to have a rough estimate of the compression with this combo? the only comp calc i found is wack and only has some specs for k motors.

[davisj3537]

what about this combo with full bolt-ons and 06+ tsx cams? also does anyone happen to have a rough estimate of the compression with this combo? the only comp calc i found is wack and only has some specs for k motors.

If you include cams with great bolt ons then you could see 240whp. The cr is a cunt hair higher than 9.6:1...pretty low.

[whatisthis]

If you include cams with great bolt ons then you could see 240whp. The cr is a cunt hair higher than 9.6:1...pretty low.

sounds like my plan to build that motor and boost it is gonna work really well then. who thinks stock pistons could take that with forged rods? say 12-14 psi.

[bchaney]

It might not strike as much fear in the hearts of the women and children.lol. It is gonna get bad gas mileage and it will be a tad slower than the 6spd.

Which tranny is optimal for said fear striking?

[Deadphishy]

Which tranny is optimal for said fear striking?

He might be swaping in a different final drive to make his gears taller.
thats great for boosted cars or k24's that have trouble keeping the wheels on the ground

[03ep3 stapel]

how much would it cost to swap a k24a2 about?

[davisj3537]

sounds like my plan to build that motor and boost it is gonna work really well then. who thinks stock pistons could take that with forged rods? say 12-14 psi.

If you are wanting to boost it then its a totally different story. It is more so the pistons that you want to change(get forged ones) and then you can do some forged rods as well. The block can take upwards of 400whp stock but I still reccommend forged rods/pistons if you really want it to last and dont' rev it over 7500.


Which tranny is optimal for said fear striking?

A 02-04 type s 6spd is the easiest choice but optimal is gonna be the 05-06 type s tranny.(alot more work though)


how much would it cost to swap a k24a2 about?
Nearly 6k if you want bolt ons and good start.

[Mr_Safeway]

Read this thread. Gooood info. I have a couple reassurances.

1. K24a2 swap, for the rbb if i have the karcepts adapter. Can I run my injen sp1576 CAI?
2. I only want to swap over the k24a2 longblock, will I need to use different coolant lines?
3. And coolant port on the head, since I would be using the the stock rbb I wouldn't need to worry about it.
4. I have a Mugen ep3 spec header that I do not want to get rid of, can I use the em2 sway and be ok? Or will I have to use no sway, if that's the case, what the advantages and disadvantages? My goal for the k24a2 is to have a kick ass daily motor and that's it. no racing or anything.
5. 440 cc injectors ok?

[Lucid Moments]

Read this thread. Gooood info. I have a couple reassurances.

1. K24a2 swap, for the rbb if i have the karcepts adapter. Can I run my injen sp1576 CAI?
2. I only want to swap over the k24a2 longblock, will I need to use different coolant lines?
3. And coolant port on the head, since I would be using the the stock rbb I wouldn't need to worry about it.
4. I have a Mugen ep3 spec header that I do not want to get rid of, can I use the em2 sway and be ok? Or will I have to use no sway, if that's the case, what the advantages and disadvantages? My goal for the k24a2 is to have a kick ass daily motor and that's it. no racing or anything.
5. 440 cc injectors ok?

Man you are starting to ask about a lot of VERY specific combonations of parts, and I just don't know if it will all fit. Most of it should but I don't know for sure.

Two things I can feel pretty comfortable about saying for sure about.


If you are using the stock intake manifold the you are correct that you don't have to worry about the water port on the head.

440 cc injectors are larger than is needed but should work just fine as long as you are getting some way to tune, preferably K-pro

[vbpracer]

You can use the stock coolent lines, main difference really is the extra one running to the head.

You will not be able to use your cai. The RBB manifold inlet sits at an angle, making the tb sit at the same angle, not allowing it to fit.

[MadLorEP3]

when you remove and engine from the botom or from the top
do we need to take the wheels off?

It doesnt seem like we need to, is this correct?

[MadLorEP3]

how long can i put off a dyno tune
after getting the k24a2 swap
or does it have to be done right away

I already have kpro

[Heitzke]

when you remove and engine from the botom or from the top
do we need to take the wheels off?

It doesnt seem like we need to, is this correct?

Is there a reason you need to leave the wheels on? When I swapped I removed as much crap as I possibly could so that I had easy access to whatever area of the car I needed to get to.



how long can i put off a dyno tune
after getting the k24a2 swap
or does it have to be done right away

I already have kpro

As long as needed really. Just enable a healthy lean cut when you first get out and drive it to be safe. Hell, I know a guy who had used a basemap on his K20A for almost 4 years before getting tuned.

[MadLorEP3]

Is there a reason you need to leave the wheels on? When I swapped I removed as much crap as I possibly could so that I had easy access to whatever area of the car I needed to get to.



As long as needed really. Just enable a healthy lean cut when you first get out and drive it to be safe. Hell, I know a guy who had used a basemap on his K20A for almost 4 years before getting tuned.


ok got it

thanks

[Heitzke]

ok got it

thanks

Sure thing man. Didn't try to come across like a dick, I was genuinely curious as to if you had a reason the wheels had to stay on. Either way, you'll be good to go.

[MadLorEP3]

Sure thing man. Didn't try to come across like a dick, I was genuinely curious as to if you had a reason the wheels had to stay on. Either way, you'll be good to go.

no worries bro
I was actually a bit worried about the shop somehow fucking up my wheels
I dont like them using their dam power tools to take off the lugs, cuz they tend to scratch it up sometimes but I will be there anyways to make sure its taken cared of

[davisj3537]

Random bump

[OAFA]

Do you know where is the fuel filter? cuz I can't find one on the k24a2 and I dont find the oem one on the A3.

[Guardian]

It's in the tank.

[OAFA]

hooooooooooo, so I can stop searching it :mredface:

[unix4linux]

I have been to manyyyy different forums researching on the setup I am trying to do and I haven't come close to finding the information I needed. In fact, many forums never even replied which has made me disappointed. Nonetheless, I am here because this thread has answered a lot of my questions but I would like to clarify on a few things. Hopefully someone can assist me.

Ok, here is what I have gathered so far from doing a my reading. I have a k24a4 long block. From what I understand, a K24A2 head vs K24A4 head stock to stock, you'll see significant changes as far as power numbers is concerned. So, when trying to output the most power based on stock head internals, it is wise to swap the k24a4 head for a k24a2 head due to the cam profile and better head airflow.

Now, if you are going to run a turbo setup and plan on changing the internals of both the block and the head, it makes sense to just keep the k24a4 head, right? If you do a port/polish/valvetrain job to the k24a4, you can expect the same performance as if the same is done to a k24a2 head, right? In summary, if staying stock and want to gain more performance, then a head swap is the way to go, if building the entire engine from head to bottom, then keeping the k24a4 head instead of swapping it out for a k24a2 head doesn't matter, right?

That is what I have gathered from my research so far, can someone shine some light on this subject? Am I on the right track?

I am also curious to know if I can order parts (internals) for a k20a3 head to use on a k24a4 head? The reason I ask is because I am having a hard time finding parts specifically for a k24a4 head. Everything seems to be for a k20a1/2/3.

Finally, if I am going to stick with a k24a4 head, should I still get the PRB ecu to use with a Kpro even if it is not a k20/24a2 head? Will the Kpro work with an A4 bottom and A4 head? I ask because I believe the PRB ecu controls a 3 lobe vtec system and obviously the a4 head is not a 3 lobe vtec system.

[AUTiger]

okay, i'll make this as short as possible. If you want to swap on an a2 head to your a4 block, you need to change out pistons and rods for either tsx or crv. Regardless, of whether you are going N/A or f/i. What you should do is post what your plans are. Staying na or going turbo or supercharger. Your stock k24a4 with the right turbo setup and fuel mods can hit 400+hp. If you want to go NA, then swap out the pistons and rods for preferably TSX ones and toss either a k24a2 or k20a2 head on. For the ecu, doesn't matter, K-Pro is k-pro, meaning you can start with a base calibration or create one from scratch to deal with the vtec system.

[unix4linux]

okay, i'll make this as short as possible. If you want to swap on an a2 head to your a4 block, you need to change out pistons and rods for either tsx or crv. Regardless, of whether you are going N/A or f/i. What you should do is post what your plans are. Staying na or going turbo or supercharger. Your stock k24a4 with the right turbo setup and fuel mods can hit 400+hp. If you want to go NA, then swap out the pistons and rods for preferably TSX ones and toss either a k24a2 or k20a2 head on. For the ecu, doesn't matter, K-Pro is k-pro, meaning you can start with a base calibration or create one from scratch to deal with the vtec system.

Ok, the plans are to turbo the engine. I am rebuilding the entire engine (bottom and head) with forged internals. Since porting the head won't cost me anything and since I will be changing the valvetrain on the head whether if it's an A2 or A4 head, I didn't think spending the extra money on an A2 head would be worth it.

[Lucid Moments]

I'm not sure about how good the A4 head is even with porting work. I know the A1 head is good stock, and can be made VERY good with porting but I seem to recall that there is some significant difference between the A1 and A4 heads but I can't recall the details. If I were doing what you are talking about I would see if I could pick up a K24A1 head since it is significantly better than the A4 head stock, and significantly cheaper than the A2 head.

The other issue is cam selection. There are some good cams available for the 2 lobe VTEC style head, but there are more and better available for the 3 lobe heads. It is going to depend on what your goals are I guess. You can make excellent power out of the 2 lobe VTEC, but if you are trying to squeeze every bit of power you can get then it might be worth it for the 3 lobe head.

Other than cams I think that most other head parts are interchangeable. Valves, valvesprings, retainers etc. So you can buy them for any K-series head. The K24A2 uses different valve seats but those are easy and cheap as long as you are prepared.

[unix4linux]

Lucid,

Thanks for your response and insight. I was under the impression that the heads A2/A4 are different because of the 3 lobe vs the 2 lobe and because of the air flow. I thought since I was going to build it, the air flow could be fixed with the porting and the internals with a selective set of good cams/valvetrain.

Since I am running turbo and looking for high gains, I didn't think running 2 lobe vs 3 lobe vtec would matter since vtec is more cost effective for NA applications. I just want to make sure that going through the hassle of a different head (A2) instead of using the A4 that I already have isn't going to be a waste of time/money. If all I am going to get is an extra 5-10 HP because I used an A2 head rather than an A4, does it even matter if I have a 600whp+ application?

In other words, to me it has to be more than just 5-10 hp. In fact, it has to due more with a combination of HP gains and reliability. If using A2 or A4 fully built head is going to give me both reliability and power, then it makes more sense...but just a few hp's, I don't know if it's worth it.

What do you think?

[unix4linux]

Ok,

After hours of reading, looks like I am going to search for a K20A2 head instead of using my k24A4 head. Here is why:

The A4 head seems to open up only 1 intake valve per cylinder when not in vtec. When vtec engages, it opens both valves on the intake side. On the K20A2 head, when vtec engages, the valves open on both exhaust and intake side (4 valves). So, the 3 lobe vtec mechanism is definitely a huge factor besides just head flow and the power gains would be a lot more than just 5-10HP. The A2 head will also allow a larger turbo setup to spool faster because of the 3 lobe vtec mechanism (since more air is flowing).

All in all, if porting and completely building a K20A2 head and K24A4 head, the K20A2 head will perform better anyway because of the 3 lobe vtec engaging all of the valves.

[Lucid Moments]

Okay lets see if I can remember everything I want to say here.

There are multiple different heads for both 2 lobe and 3 lobe cams and it is easy to get them confused. The K24A4 that you have is out of the Accord, the K24A1 that I mentioned is out of the CRV. There is also a K24A3 IIRC that is out of the Element but that is less common. All of them are interchangeable with minor differences, but they are not the same. Any of them will also be cheaper than any of the 3 lobe heads. Again IIRC of them the K24A1 is the best flowing. People have made some serious horsepower out of the K24A1 (CRV) head. Especially with a turbo. The real question is, is it worth the money. And I don't know the answer to that. My suspicion is that you can make plenty of power with the head you have and would be better served with keeping the K24A4 head you have, or going with an inexpensive head like the K24A1 and spending the money you save for a better turbo manifold/downpipe/intercooler etc. If I were doing it that is what I would do. The boost can make up for a lot of flow deficiencies.

Of the 3 lobe heads the K20A2 (RSX-s) head is the best stock. The K24A2 head is also a very good choice and if you are going to do some serious porting the K24A2 head has more material in it so that you can shape the ports the way you want them.

[dkid15]

You dont need to get new rods to run tsx pistons. You can use accord rods. I am.

[unix4linux]

Lucid,

That is what I was thinking. If I am going to be porting the head (A4) and building the valvetrain with different than stock, I didn't think I would need to bother with a K20A2 head. I am thinking that the K20A2 is best if doing an NA build or stock build as opposed to turbo.

I am doing a complete build from top to bottom (all forged) so I thought sticking with the A4 as opposed to getting a K20A2 would make more sense.

[dkid15]

You will never make as much power with economy vtec as you will with 3 lobe vtec. Honestly the a4 head is not very good. If your all about saving money just get cams and a bigger turbo, itll make more power than blowing 1000 dollars trying to make the a4 "worth it".

[Lucid Moments]

Lucid,

That is what I was thinking. If I am going to be porting the head (A4) and building the valvetrain with different than stock, I didn't think I would need to bother with a K20A2 head. I am thinking that the K20A2 is best if doing an NA build or stock build as opposed to turbo.

I am doing a complete build from top to bottom (all forged) so I thought sticking with the A4 as opposed to getting a K20A2 would make more sense.

I agree. And its not like you can't swap the head out later if you decide to.

[unix4linux]

Hmmm...the A2 head still looks better than the A4 even if porting. After looking at some pictures and reading some info, the A4 head intake ports seem to have a split in the port wall. The A2 head doesn't. This is because since the A4 head is an economic vtec mechanism, one of the valves on the intake side stays closed during non vtec engagement. If that valve is closed, the air has to go somewhere so that it doesn't produce back gases or turbulence. This is why it has a split in the intake port wall so that when the valve is closed at low RPM, the only open valve can receive the air through the wall split of the intake port from the valve that is not receiving any air through the valve. In other words, it becomes a dead end.

On the A2 head, the intake port doesn't have this split in the intake wall that separates the two intake valves because both valves open all of the time. So, the A2 head would still be better with any mod because air flow is directed through two intake valves at all time where as the A4 it only happens when vtec is engaged.

[ImportCustomx]

only thing i think should be added is what Header you can use.

i have a k24a1 with a type-s head...i have been wondering what headers (Aside from my custom made one) would fit this setup on our cars. that would be helpful info.

[ep3berg]

new to this site... but i have been looking everywhere for a k24a2 long block for my egg... wondering if anyone knows of any places down here in San Diego area where this purchase could be made possible (haha:)) and reliable sources. yeeeeeeee thank mayne

-Bizzle

[Go_ep3]

new to this site... but i have been looking everywhere for a k24a2 long block for my egg... wondering if anyone knows of any places down here in San Diego area where this purchase could be made possible (haha:)) and reliable sources. yeeeeeeee thank mayne

-Bizzle

try these two site... http://www.car-part.com/ or http://sandiego.craigslist.org/ good luck

[ep3berg]

thanx man where you from in norcal i saw the 209 haha and that is where i used to live over in manteca hahaha

[Go_ep3]

yeah, thats cool. im from stockton...btw, wlecome to the site.

[ep3berg]

thanx man.... i got one question i am in the process of getting my k24a2 longblock the only thing that i am confused about is the ecu i have read all over and cant really find anything (not that i cant find anything i just cant find a specific answer). i am keeping the ep3 5 speed tranny cuz i am planning on boosting in the future. also any other helpful info that you know of with this swap would be helpful i have found some good threads on it but just a lil confused on the ecu problem

-Bizzle

[Go_ep3]

thanx man.... i got one question i am in the process of getting my k24a2 longblock the only thing that i am confused about is the ecu i have read all over and cant really find anything (not that i cant find anything i just cant find a specific answer). i am keeping the ep3 5 speed tranny cuz i am planning on boosting in the future. also any other helpful info that you know of with this swap would be helpful i have found some good threads on it but just a lil confused on the ecu problem

-Bizzle

i just got my k24a2 swap done 3 months ago. man, do i love this swap! but it cost me 4k though...

you need KPRO to run the k24a2. you can't use our stock ep3 ecu...either u send ur ecu out to get KPRO or buy a used/new one... the ep3 5 speed is better for boosting than would a 6 speed because of the gearing.

heres the stuff u need to get the swap done...

- k24a2
- KPRO
- K24 CRV side mount bracket

everything from ur ep3 motor will swap over... also, check out the swap threads, theres tons of info there..thats how i got most of my info. GL buddy

[ep3berg]

thats sick man... ya i am almost done saving up... damn 4k that is pretty expensive i found a long block for 1900... on hmotorsonline.com my buddy told me to look there last night and they had one so i should be gettting it done soon.. that is the one thing i dont understand is the whole ecu thing!!! when i buy one what am i looking for that is the thing...

[Go_ep3]

thats not a bad price. i got mines for 1500 w/ 57k miles. i replaced alot of other stuff so it added up... i dont know much about KPRO but that i needed it to run the car.. sorry that i couldnt been much of a help..

[ep3berg]

did you send in your ecu, if yes how long did it take to get it back

[Go_ep3]

i sent mines out..i say about a week or so.. no more than 2 weeks. i forgot exactly... i got it through THmotorsport...there a vendor here and his name is nick.. coo guy... i paid over the phone and he e-mailed me a slip to fill out and i sent it out to hondata... got it back in a week or so. he should be able to answer all ur questions like he did mines...

btw, some people prefer to keep there stock ecu and buy a new/used one....or if u want, u can send urs out like i did. if its ur only car and need transportation than it might be a problem... feel free to PM me if u ever need help or advice...

[neoamd]

Does anyone know (For a fact) if the EP3 JRSC kit will clear everything fine with a K24A1 swap?

[Lucid Moments]

Does anyone know (For a fact) if the EP3 JRSC kit will clear everything fine with a K24A1 swap?

Yes, sort of. There is a tiny, tiny bit of a clearance on one of the hood supports. All it takes is a little work with a ball peen hammer to clear that.

[amnbassist]

QUESTION! im putting an k24a1 head on my K20a3 block, would i still need to delete the front sway bar, or will my shorty header still clear just fine? if i do have to delete it, i autox my ep, will there be any negative handling influence from the missing front sway bar?

[Ba82Ep3]

QUESTION! im putting an k24a1 head on my K20a3 block, would i still need to delete the front sway bar, or will my shorty header still clear just fine? if i do have to delete it, i autox my ep, will there be any negative handling influence from the missing front sway bar?

No. The block is taller on the 2.4's. Adding the k24a1 head to your k20a3 block will cause zero swaybar issues, and you can use your existing shorty header.

[Ba82Ep3]

Does anyone know (For a fact) if the EP3 JRSC kit will clear everything fine with a K24A1 swap?

You will also need to grind the top part of the 2.4's water passage to ease SC install (i know this because i installed an EP JRSC on my personal k24a1). If you want to avoid this, then install the SC without the two IM studs in the head... that way you have clearance to move the SC into place, and secure it with bolts.

[amnbassist]

really appreciate boss thanks!

[ep-unit]

what manifold would be better on a frank build with type-r cams, my stock prb or ditch it for a prc or rbc?

[Ba82Ep3]

Specs on the build? Which bottom end, which head? What VTC IN cam gear? I definitely noticed a difference going from the PRB to the PRC with my personal setup.

I havent used an RBC (except on my k20z3), but have tuned a few engines with one (k20a2/a3, k24a1/a2, JDM k20a, etc). The RBC on a k24a2 head with the stock IN VTC gear was pointless. There were little gains and much less TQ compared to a PRB. Using a modded VTC would have helped. Its hard to make power with the cams unable to open the valves to let in more air.

[amnbassist]

one more question, will a k20 valve cover fit on a k24 head?

[Heitzke]

one more question, will a k20 valve cover fit on a k24 head?

Yep, no problem

[ep-unit]

Specs on the build? Which bottom end, which head? What VTC IN cam gear? I definitely noticed a difference going from the PRB to the PRC with my personal setup.

I havent used an RBC (except on my k20z3), but have tuned a few engines with one (k20a2/a3, k24a1/a2, JDM k20a, etc). The RBC on a k24a2 head with the stock IN VTC gear was pointless. There were little gains and much less TQ compared to a PRB. Using a modded VTC would have helped. Its hard to make power with the cams unable to open the valves to let in more air.

my build is a k20a/k24a1 frank oem internals, my prc has a crack, thats why i was wondering on replacing my current prc or just slap on my old prb or just get a rbc need an answer on which is a better setup plz thanks

[Ba82Ep3]

my build is a k20a/k24a1 frank oem internals, my prc has a crack, thats why i was wondering on replacing my current prc or just slap on my old prb or just get a rbc need an answer on which is a better setup plz thanks

Since your running a stock k24a1 bottom end, i would use the PRB for the time being. You arent going to see big benefits from the Type R cams and an RBC for two reasons...

1) compression of the k24a1 bottom end
2) SAFE revability of the k24a1 bottom end

If you swapped out the k24a1 pistons for some TSX (k24a2) or Accord (k24z) pistons for a decent bump in compression, that would help dramatically. You would still be limited by the stock rods for a reliable revlimit to make best use of your cam and RBC combo though.

As everything usually is... a safe revlimit for an OEM k24a1 is debatable. For my car, i wouldnt set the limiter above 7500rpm on stock CRV rods. Others have, and do with no problems though. So that kinda has to be your call...

[ep-unit]

Since your running a stock k24a1 bottom end, i would use the PRB for the time being. You arent going to see big benefits from the Type R cams and an RBC for two reasons...

1) compression of the k24a1 bottom end
2) SAFE revability of the k24a1 bottom end

If you swapped out the k24a1 pistons for some TSX (k24a2) or Accord (k24z) pistons for a decent bump in compression, that would help dramatically. You would still be limited by the stock rods for a reliable revlimit to make best use of your cam and RBC combo though.

As everything usually is... a safe revlimit for an OEM k24a1 is debatable. For my car, i wouldnt set the limiter above 7500rpm on stock CRV rods. Others have, and do with no problems though. So that kinda has to be your call...

is 7500 rpm the limit till detonation...i didnt upgrade to the type-s oil pump =/ what is everyone else revving too on a stock frank setup?

[Ba82Ep3]

is 7500 rpm the limit till detonation...i didnt upgrade to the type-s oil pump =/ what is everyone else revving too on a stock frank setup?

Not neccessarily. Guardian (Scott) is proof positive you can beat on a stock k24a1 block/k20a2 head combo and it survive. Last i looked i think he said his limit was 7800rpm? Add boost on top of that, and you can see the k24a1 can take a beating. But daily driving a car is a different matter. In a lot of ways, DD is tougher on an engine than racing.

But you cant ignore the facts. At 7000rpm, piston speed (how fast its moving up and down in the cylinder) in a 2.4 is close to the piston speed of a 2.0 at 8000rpm. So raising your 2.4 limit to 7500rpm is like asking the rods to hold onto the pistons at 8500rpm. If you maintain it properly, you can rev a 2.0 to 8500rpm safely (the a2/z3 or Type R internals, forged parts). Since the k24a1 internals (rods/pistons) arent forged, you run the RISK of problems at those RPM's.

Here is where picking up a set of TSX rods and pistons for your k24a1 becomes a good move. Since the rods are forged, you could safely rev a little higher... and the pistons have a higher compression, so you could get greater use from your Type R cams and an RBC... if you choose to add one.

Whenever i tune a k24a1 with a stock bottom end, i tune it to 7500rpm, and set the rev limit to 7100rpm. The last thing i want is someone hittin me up on the cell sayin they threw a rod, so i dont encourage a high rev limit. Even on Type R engines, i dont set the limit above 8500rpm. To me it just isnt worth that extra 15whp to rev that extra little bit, and run the risk of engine failure. Besides, there is plenty of power to be found below 7100rpm. Its all in the parts you choose to put her together with, and the tune.

As far as the RBC mani goes... if you look on k20a.org EVERYONE runs the RBC. But i think part of that is just a 'status' statement. The majority of Honda community are more concerned with peak WHP#'s and great dyno sheets, and the RBC is a way to get those. Considering the additional cost of everything combined to run an RBC (Karcepts adapter/a custom CAI or short ram intake), i would rather spend that combined $400+ on better parts to add to the reliability of my modded engine (better rods, for example).

My personal choice is the PRC or an RBB (TSX mani). But cam angle choice for the RBB is crucial to take advantage of its long runners. You need a tuner that knows what hes doing to make some power with it. You said your PRC was cracked, can you get it repaired?

As far as the oil pump goes, youll be fine with the stock oil pump if you keep the rev limit reasonable. Your engine will be a lot quieter in the upper RPM's as well. I added the a2 oil pump/pan and like its simplicity and function... but everytime i revved her out, i felt bad for the bottom end knowing it was getting rattled to death because there were no more balance shafts.

Every engine mod has its positive, and negative results. It usually costs more $ to properly prep an engine to cope with the negatives.

[Slip_Angle]

^^^^

Good informative post. I have the RBB manifold on my K24a2 and really like it. I also have a PRC manifold that I haven't tried yet. From what I've read so far the PRC will have a bit more top end and will shift the power curve up compared to the RBB.

At the moment, I'm playing with Intake length to see what works. I'm was running a 2.5 inch CAI that was made of corrugated tubing but the corrugation hurts air flow so now I'm working on a 3 inch CAI with smooth aluminum pipe.

[Ba82Ep3]

I have the RBB manifold on my K24a2 and really like it. I also have a PRC manifold that I haven't tried yet. From what I've read so far the PRC will have a bit more top end and will shift the power curve up compared to the RBB.

In my findings, the RBB had better midrange 2500-5500rpm than a PRB, otherwise both were similar up to 6800rpm.

The PRC was much better above 5500rpm and took away some of bottom end between 2500-4300rpm, compared to the RBB.

The PRC seemed to meet halfway between the three manis. Decent top end, decent midrange power. The great thing is (for me anyways), the PRC is a bolt in affair. No mods, no custom parts.

I havent had a chance to run the PRC or RBB bored with a matched TB yet. Have you bore matched your RBB and TB? I wonder if that would be the better of them all.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If i were to build a race motor (small/medium sized circuit), i would probably choose the PRC over an RBC. The longer the straights are, and the larger the average corners radius is... the more likely i would use an RBC. Since being smooth in and out of corners is far more important than max whp#'s, having the ability to get from corner exit to corner entry is crucial (assuming no wheelspin). There are a lot of factors that come into play (trasmission ratios and FDR come to mind as primary), but peak whp isnt on the top of the list. Its about trying to put down all of your HP from corner to corner as fast and consistent as you can.

Drag racing is different. Its about putting as much power to the ground as you can, in as few of a gears as you can. A higher revving powerhouse with a properly set up transmission becomes priority. Chassis tuning is just as important as circuit racing.

Daily driving is a little of both. It requires the best of all the above, and adds a level of durability. Daily driven cars are less likely to be maintained properly like a race car of either type. Its the nature of the competitive spirit to stay on top of your game, and make sure you put the best your car can be on the track.

Thats why we are the hardest guys to please when it comes to building Hondas. We want a 12 second car that out handles a Porsche on the way to the grocery store with 6000 miles on the oil change, and a baby seat in the back. lol

[ep-unit]

thanks for the answers, also will i need to upgrade my fuel pump to a 255 or the stock fuel setup should be fine with my frank swap

[Ba82Ep3]

Stock fuel pump will work just fine.

[Slip_Angle]

In my findings, the RBB had better midrange 2500-5500rpm than a PRB, otherwise both were similar up to 6800rpm.

The PRC was much better above 5500rpm and took away some of bottom end between 2500-4300rpm, compared to the RBB.

The PRC seemed to meet halfway between the three manis. Decent top end, decent midrange power. The great thing is (for me anyways), the PRC is a bolt in affair. No mods, no custom parts.

I havent had a chance to run the PRC or RBB bored with a matched TB yet. Have you bore matched your RBB and TB? I wonder if that would be the better of them all.


Thanks for the info. I think I'll stick with the RBB for now. The PRC will need the water port mod no? I haven't done anything with respect to boring or port matching. Just finished my 3 inch CAI today. Tight fit but it worked. I'll take it for the first run tomorrow and see what it's like.

[mecpello]

s2000 pistons fits in k24 block with k24 oem rods?
i use type s ecu with k20z3 head/tsx k24 block and 11.5.1 pistons?

[RHCP0801]

i would also like to add if you are still using the ep3 trans on the k24a2 and your check engine light is on and the code is for the vehicle speed sensor. Go into your parameters and select misc, uncheck the 2 boxes under speed sensor, go into the gear comp tab and click select ratios, in the dropdown box select ep3 civic si than upload it...should work perfect as it did for me. Got this info from k20a.org as i was just about to buy a new sensor

[LOVIN MY EP3]

On the K24a2 IM theres a hole before the tb and every time I put my finger on it the motor dies... I'm pretty sure there's a sensor or something that goes on If anyone can let me know what goes there that would be great

[vbpracer]

Where is your map sensor?

[RHCP0801]

yea thats where the map sensor goes

[LOVIN MY EP3]

My Map sensor is on the ep3 tb but I went to the junk yard because my tps went out and I came up on a skunk2 tb with all the sensors but it only had one hole on the top... right now the map sensor is on there but I'm guess if I put my map sensor on the IM and I'm guess the evap purge valve canister goes on top of the tb

[RHCP0801]

im using the ep3 tb also and i moved the map sensor to the intake mani itself....the karcepts adapter comes with a little rubber plug you put in the spot on the tb where your map sensor is now, here is a pic of mine, yellow circle is the rubber plug, purple is the new location for the map sensor on the intake manifold


http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/8312/dscf01811.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/i/dscf01811.jpg/)

[LOVIN MY EP3]

Thanks for the info RHCP0801

[ep-unit]

I just got the crv mount bracket do i need the bolts too or will i be able to reuse my a3 bolts on the k24 swap?

[Heitzke]

I just got the crv mount bracket do i need the bolts too or will i be able to reuse my a3 bolts on the k24 swap?

same bolts are fine

[ep-unit]

same bolts are fine

so the a3 bolts will do....sweet

[RHCP0801]

yea i used the a3 bolts on the crv bracket, just remember which ones go where because one is longer than the others

[SandBagger]

In my findings, the RBB had better midrange 2500-5500rpm than a PRB, otherwise both were similar up to 6800rpm.

The PRC was much better above 5500rpm and took away some of bottom end between 2500-4300rpm, compared to the RBB.

The PRC seemed to meet halfway between the three manis. Decent top end, decent midrange power. The great thing is (for me anyways), the PRC is a bolt in affair. No mods, no custom parts.

I havent had a chance to run the PRC or RBB bored with a matched TB yet. Have you bore matched your RBB and TB? I wonder if that would be the better of them all.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

If i were to build a race motor (small/medium sized circuit), i would probably choose the PRC over an RBC. The longer the straights are, and the larger the average corners radius is... the more likely i would use an RBC. Since being smooth in and out of corners is far more important than max whp#'s, having the ability to get from corner exit to corner entry is crucial (assuming no wheelspin). There are a lot of factors that come into play (trasmission ratios and FDR come to mind as primary), but peak whp isnt on the top of the list. Its about trying to put down all of your HP from corner to corner as fast and consistent as you can.

Drag racing is different. Its about putting as much power to the ground as you can, in as few of a gears as you can. A higher revving powerhouse with a properly set up transmission becomes priority. Chassis tuning is just as important as circuit racing.

Daily driving is a little of both. It requires the best of all the above, and adds a level of durability. Daily driven cars are less likely to be maintained properly like a race car of either type. Its the nature of the competitive spirit to stay on top of your game, and make sure you put the best your car can be on the track.

Thats why we are the hardest guys to please when it comes to building Hondas. We want a 12 second car that out handles a Porsche on the way to the grocery store with 6000 miles on the oil change, and a baby seat in the back. lol

you and I have alot of K24 experience. whatever Ba82ep3 says is right on. pullN on M5's and shit

[talonXracer]

Snag a TSX or CRV evap solonoid and it is mounted off the TB.......on several cars with different manis that I have tuned, it seems that the best map signal seems to occur at the TB.

One of the guys up here has seen excellent results with a K24A1(w/TSX slugs), BC stage 3 cams breathing thru a PRC mani with plenum spacer that didnt see those low end losses, an awesome DD hooked up to the base 5 spd(w/TSX6th).

I am looking into a VTEC killer camshaft(think beefier Kme small lobes) for my next k24 engine build.

[Deadphishy]

Snag a TSX or CRV evap solonoid and it is mounted off the TB.......on several cars with different manis that I have tuned, it seems that the best map signal seems to occur at the TB.

One of the guys up here has seen excellent results with a K24A1(w/TSX slugs), BC stage 3 cams breathing thru a PRC mani with plenum spacer that didnt see those low end losses, an awesome DD hooked up to the base 5 spd(w/TSX6th).

I am looking into a VTEC killer camshaft(think beefier Kme small lobes) for my next k24 engine build.

I would think the BC 3's had to much duration for a 10.5:1 motor. I wonder what his results would be with stage 2's

[LOVIN MY EP3]

quick question... would a strut bar interfere with a K24a2 because of the extra height ???

[RHCP0801]

no, mine fit perfect

[LOVIN MY EP3]

no, mine fit perfect

just making sure... Thanks

[sbRR]

All the information in here will become extremely handy when I do my k24/k20 swap this coming Spring. Thanks everyone!

[MadLorEP3]

has anyone had any issues with using the stock k24a2 intake mani with karcepts adapter and the aem v2 intake? Will this fit?

[RHCP0801]

karcepts adapter with the ep3 throttle body? any shortram fits fine, cold airs wont

[MadLorEP3]

karcepts adapter with the ep3 throttle body? any shortram fits fine, cold airs wont

tnx bud
stupid questionbut just wanna clarify, the aem v2 is a short ram right? and the v1 was the cold air?

[RHCP0801]

yea the v2 is a short ram, i have a cai on my k24a2 but its made out of 3 inch black dryer hose due to all the bends around the battery and coolant hose.....i would love to get one made out of actual piping but this will have to do for now, and the fact that it only cost me like $10

[Kumar]

This thread has answered a lot of my questions already and has been a wealth of information. However I'm a newb when it comes to engine swaps and I want to make sure I get this right the first time.

I'm about to install a K24A1 but there are a couple of things I want to clear up before I proceed. This is the list of parts I do have:

I. Parts I bought for the swap:

1. K24A1
2. New K24A1 valve cover gasket
3. New K24A1 exhaust manifold gasket
4. New K24A1 Belt
5. New K20A3 intake manifold gasket
6. New K20A3 throttle body gasket
7. K24A1 passenger side motor mount bracket
8. KPRO


II. Questions


1.) Based on my part list, is there anything else I should replace while I have the engine on the stand?

2.) Can I use my stock injectors since I have KPRO or do I have to use 310cc injectors?

3.) I plan on using my stock exhaust manifold and stock exhaust system. I understand I have to get the downpipe extended by couple of inches to compensate for the increase in height from the K24 block, is this the part of the catalytic converter that needs to be extended?
http://img20.imageshack.us/img20/6238/downpipe.png

4.) Is there anything else I forgot to mention?

Thanks for the help.

[Heitzke]

Everything looks pretty good. How many miles are on the motor you're swapping in?

You can probably get away fine with the 270's, especially since you're using the stock cat/exhaust.

I'm honestly not sure how your front sway clearance will be with the stock header/cat. Personally, my clearance issue with my RH was at the first bend in the exhaust where it crosses under the passenger floor. The extra deck height of the K24 sucked up that clearance and the exhaust was beating on the floor of the car. It's probably one of those 'wait and see' sort of things.

[Kumar]

Everything looks pretty good. How many miles are on the motor you're swapping in?

You can probably get away fine with the 270's, especially since you're using the stock cat/exhaust.

I'm honestly not sure how your front sway clearance will be with the stock header/cat. Personally, my clearance issue with my RH was at the first bend in the exhaust where it crosses under the passenger floor. The extra deck height of the K24 sucked up that clearance and the exhaust was beating on the floor of the car. It's probably one of those 'wait and see' sort of things.

Thanks for the reply Heitzke. The 03 K24A1 has 32,000+ according to the records of the salvage yard I bought it from. I was looking for a low mileage K20A3 to make the swap easier but the CRV motor was $600+ Tax.

I will be using my stock injectors and will be starting on the swap tomorrow evening. Like you said, I will wait and see about the clearance when I get to there. I will post back here with the progress.

[Import_Tuna]

Thanks for the reply Heitzke. The 03 K24A1 has 32,000+ according to the records of the salvage yard I bought it from. I was looking for a low mileage K20A3 to make the swap easier but the CRV motor was $600+ Tax.

I will be using my stock injectors and will be starting on the swap tomorrow evening. Like you said, I will wait and see about the clearance when I get to there. I will post back here with the progress.

I'm interested in this as well. I'm going to be rebuilding a K24A4 and chucking it in in the summer sometime, I'm thinking, and I don't know what I'm going to do with the exhaust. I wouldn't mind putting a header on, but I want to keep my cat, and this kinda complicates things according to what I've read so far.

[goldEp]

ok guys.. i just did my k24a1 swap yesterday.. it started right up.. all the info and tune you need is right here.. i used the tune thats on this thread the k24a1 with intake, header, exhuast. i set my launch at 5500 and rev to 7000.. i had done swaps before with b-series d-series and i have to say k-series are easier.. specialy with threads like this.. came out smooth.. i bought the long block in denver for 800 drove home swaped all from a3 motor clutch,flywheel,water pump, i used to stock k24a1 crank pully, and i had to use a little bigger serp belt then mentioned on here...i used 695k6.. problems i cam acroos the passenger side axel came out of place internally and i had take the axel boot off and fix.. once done it went back on perfect.. driver side mount gave me little shit.. took me a whole day.. first k_series swap.. pulled a3 from top and droped the k24 from top also.. it was very easy.. if only some body would add torque specs on here then you wouldnt have to go no where..! i love ephatch.! i did it in my super little garage with 20 degree weather of colorado..lol

[05TurboS2K]

I had pure bad luck with 37k on my F22c, some valve material made it into the cylinder (FRM) and scored it. Now I'm considering a K24A1/K20A2 hybrid for my S2000. I'll have to sell my AEM setup and buy a Kpro which will mean I'll loose $500 bucks in the end there. My question is this....

If I'm going turbo is it reasonable to stick with a bone stock K24A1 (and K24A1 head) with hopes of 400hp on my GT3076R turbo I have already on the F22c? I'm THEN thinking later at any time I could always slap a K20A2 head on it and get Kpro and have a nice little hp gain.

I'm trying to do this on a budget where I can upgrade later but have a 400hp turbo motor for really cheap. I know I'll need a custom manifold because the K series faces the wrong direction and I know I'll have to make a custom adapter plate for the tranny but that's fine. My AEM setup should run the K24A1 since it doesn't have Vtec correct?

Cut me some slack if you could, I know NOTHING of the K series but quite a fair bit about the F20/22.

1. Thoughts on going this route?
2. What is the limit of the K24A1's stock hp capabilities?
3. What then would be the limit with the K20A2 head when I add that later?
4. What then would be the limit with the K20A2 head + TSX pistons and rods? That help?
5. What is the safe rev-limit in all of these situations? I rev 8200 now of course but I'm fine with 7500 or whatever is safe... though I'd love to rev to 8200 simply because my stock cluster in the dash would be matched properly including the over-rev light.

thanks much guys!!!!

-Greg






Lucid,

That is what I was thinking. If I am going to be porting the head (A4) and building the valvetrain with different than stock, I didn't think I would need to bother with a K20A2 head. I am thinking that the K20A2 is best if doing an NA build or stock build as opposed to turbo.

I am doing a complete build from top to bottom (all forged) so I thought sticking with the A4 as opposed to getting a K20A2 would make more sense.

[ep-unit]

what is everyone revving the k24a1(no type-s oil pump) to?

[Twisted-X]

Alright, so I'm thinking about replacing my entire exhaust, and in the next 18 months getting a k24a2. I'd like to get the supporting exhaust mods for the K24 done before the swap. For the header, I'm thinking either the KRRH or the Skunk2. For the exhaust, either the RSX-S Megapower (60mm) or Megapower R (70mm), because I love the sound.

My questions are:

1. Will either of these headers clear the '02 front sway (which I plan on swapping in)?
2. Which exhaust diameter is better for the k24a2 (exhaust velocity and such)?

Thanks Guys(Gals)

[PAPITUYO326]

I have a KRRH + Toda Front Sway on my K24a1/K20z3 and I have about .090 inches worth of clearance once the car is on the ground. VERY tight. Much tighter than my old RSX spec DCRH or SixSigmaRacing Header.

With that said, the KRRH is very flexible for installation. You can have pieces extended to help fitment.

[Twisted-X]

Have you tried the EM2 front sway, did/would that give more clearance than the (made for race headers) Toda? I've been reading around other forums, and some people have had luck making sway bars fit with adjustable endlinks. Any thoughts?

Thanks

[RHCP0801]

just take it to an exhaust shop and have them fix it for you, thats all i did...still using the stock ep3 sway bar

[Heitzke]

what is everyone revving the k24a1(no type-s oil pump) to?

I wouldn't rev a k24a1 past 7400-7500. It's more of a limitation of stock rotating assembly speed rather than the oil pump

[Kumar]

I used my stock EP exhaust manifold and there was no need to extend the downpipe. I also had no clearance issues with the stock sway bar.

It took me 5 days total to finish swapping in the K24A1. One day of that was strictly cleaning oil and gunk from the engine bay. My car started right up and and the engine runs smooth. It's like driving a different car almost. Thanks to everybody who contributed information here because my swap went pretty smooth considering this was my first engine swap.

[04SiSpeed]

What do I need to drop these motors in my car?
The K24a1 and K24a4 can run on the stock ep3 ecu if you put in 310cc injectors from the rsx type s*. Kpro is a must for a k24a2 or a K24a3. Kpro is reccomended for all of these motors though. All of these motors require a specific header to clear the front sway or you can run without a front sway. A few headers that clear the front sway are the ep or type s specific dcrh or Strup, JRRH(hits slightly), SSR, Hytech. You need to use the exhaust gasket from the motor you are putting in.You need the passenger side motor mount from a crv to put any of these babies in your car. Check the link below and there is a picture of it and a link to buy it.
************************************************** **************************
Anyone know what year rsx type s race header from DC sports you get? 05-06 or 02-04???

[BeaterEP]

I got a question about the bolt-on issue with a K24A1 swap.
I've been running a 05 Type-S OEM header/cat/midpipe for years now. The diameter increase over the A3 OEM is pretty modest. You guys think it would still run lean?

[Ba82Ep3]

I got a question about the bolt-on issue with a K24A1 swap.
I've been running a 05 Type-S OEM header/cat/midpipe for years now. The diameter increase over the A3 OEM is pretty modest. You guys think it would still run lean?

You mean if you use the stock ECU and 310's with that combo?

[BeaterEP]

Yeah. Assuming I can't find the cams I need, it might be time to call it and just go ahead and swap. If so, I'd need to start assembling the necessary bits as quickly/cheaply as possible.
Sold off most of the OEM exhaust when I switched, so I'm kinda filling in holes in knowledge ASAP here :mbiggrin:

[Ba82Ep3]

What cams do you need?

And yes you would be fine with 310's on the stock ECU. The restrictive cat is the most important thing in that setup. If you were running the stock airbox, you would be even better... but i know of k24a1's on 310's and the stock ECU with a CAI, raceheader and aftermarket catback that didnt run lean. You should be just fine.

[03Si757]

What cams do you need?

And yes you would be fine with 310's on the stock ECU. The restrictive cat is the most important thing in that setup. If you were running the stock airbox, you would be even better... but i know of k24a1's on 310's and the stock ECU with a CAI, raceheader and aftermarket catback that didnt run lean. You should be just fine.


Ran this setup for well over a year never had any issues, besides a bad o2 lol. Ran great aswell.

[BeaterEP]

Very cool.
I'm trying to find someone with simple used A3 OEM cams, as I've just discovered my exhaust side is galled like a mofo. Funny thing is, last time I had it open for valve lash, I didn't see any symptoms. :shrug:
At any rate, after 200k+ miles, I'm seriously wondering how much life the motor has left even if I do switch out the cams for a fresh pair.
A swap has always been in the long-term goals, starting to think now might just be the right time.

[Ba82Ep3]

You would be surprised the life a well maintained Honda engine might have. Im all for a k24 swap... been there done that. But its always nice to swap when you WANT to... not cause you HAVE to. It lets you choose your path, spend your money, and do it right the first time.

Is all you need an EX cam? I should have a spare... ill check if you think it will help ya out.

[BeaterEP]

Yeah, if you wouldn't mind.
I've had a couple of bites but always good to have as many sources as possible! :mbiggrin:

As far as new cams vs. swap, it's just kinda a tricky moment. Frankly, I worry there might be some unseen damage from the cam going south on me, and when it comes down to it, the assurance of having a fresh engine that I can count on to hang in there for a few years wouldn't be the worst thing in the world LOL.

I'm kinda close to that tipping point where maintaining an old engine just isn't worth the effort. :shrug:
Anyway, this has turned in to a thread jack, PM if you have a cam or set available.

[Heitzke]

I'd rather swap the motor than the cam IMO. It's not a crazy amount of work, but I'd rather put those labor hours towards a solid motor. That's if it's in the budget anyhow.

I don't believe the K24A1 cams are the same as the A3, but I've got an extra set you're welcome to if needed.

[Ba82Ep3]

Yeah, if you wouldn't mind.
I've had a couple of bites but always good to have as many sources as possible! :mbiggrin:

As far as new cams vs. swap, it's just kinda a tricky moment. Frankly, I worry there might be some unseen damage from the cam going south on me, and when it comes down to it, the assurance of having a fresh engine that I can count on to hang in there for a few years wouldn't be the worst thing in the world LOL.

I'm kinda close to that tipping point where maintaining an old engine just isn't worth the effort. :shrug:
Anyway, this has turned in to a thread jack, PM if you have a cam or set available.

I understand that logic for sure. :mwink: Ill check the garage today and let you know...


I'd rather swap the motor than the cam IMO. It's not a crazy amount of work, but I'd rather put those labor hours towards a solid motor. That's if it's in the budget anyhow.

I don't believe the K24A1 cams are the same as the A3, but I've got an extra set you're welcome to if needed.

k24a1 and k20a3 cams are the same. :mcool:

[03Si757]

I got a extra set of a1 cams, both intake and exhaust they look great

[usedep3]

Read this thread. Gooood info. I have a couple reassurances.

1. K24a2 swap, for the rbb if i have the karcepts adapter. Can I run my injen sp1576 CAI?
2. I only want to swap over the k24a2 longblock, will I need to use different coolant lines?
3. And coolant port on the head, since I would be using the the stock rbb I wouldn't need to worry about it.
4. I have a Mugen ep3 spec header that I do not want to get rid of, can I use the em2 sway and be ok? Or will I have to use no sway, if that's the case, what the advantages and disadvantages? My goal for the k24a2 is to have a kick ass daily motor and that's it. no racing or anything.
5. 440 cc injectors ok?


You can use the stock coolent lines, main difference really is the extra one running to the head.

You will not be able to use your cai. The RBB manifold inlet sits at an angle, making the tb sit at the same angle, not allowing it to fit.

what is the extra coolant line vbpracer is talking about?

[RHCP0801]

there is no extra coolant line to the head, i used all the original ones and not one more or one less

[usedep3]

there is no extra coolant line to the head, i used all the original ones and not one more or one less

got it. thanks man. thanks to everyone that chimed into this thread. it's been a huge help

[thakid]

What all is needed for k24a2 swap?
P2R CRV bracket or stock
KPro
Removing heat wrap on hood
Bending frame a bit for IM to fit
Tapping of the coolant port or something of that sort?
Am i missing anything?

Going SSR header and RRC intake manifold plus hasport mounts.
Anything else? Thanks

[RHCP0801]

You can use either one, P2R cost more but it is lighter...not that it makes any difference at all
You don't have to bend the radiator support, you have to trim it but if you take it off first and bend it back than slide the mani in you wont have to trim anything. It will be a tight fit and you're gonna have to bend the hood prop a bit to clear the mani. Your choice though
You don't need to tap anything, I didn't have to do anything when I bolted the rbc on which is the same thing as the rrc sizewise
if the k24a2 swap doesn't come with all of the sensors, most swap over from the k20a3

[RhINoX^]

I have few questions about K24A2 swap in ep3. I am planning to use stock k24 IM RBB +spacer and stock TB. What intake will fit? I have injen cai. I have ep3 dc shorty. Is it going to fit k24 and clear front way bar ? Planning to use it till I buy better headers. Is DC5 vibrant RH going to fit in ep3 ? What clutch and flywheel is recommended for k24 + stock 5sp tranny ?
Thanks!

[RHCP0801]

I have few questions about K24A2 swap in ep3. I am planning to use stock k24 IM RBB +spacer and stock TB. What intake will fit? I have injen cai. I have ep3 dc shorty. Is it going to fit k24 and clear front way bar ? Planning to use it till I buy better headers. Is DC5 vibrant RH going to fit in ep3 ? What clutch and flywheel is recommended for k24 + stock 5sp tranny ?
Thanks!

the injen cai wont fit, you're gonna need to custom fab an intake to work with that manifold. I just had an old short ram laying around and cut it shorter, did the job for the time being. Probably won't clear the front sway or it will hit the body, either one.

[AttarixEp]

I have few questions about K24A2 swap in ep3. I am planning to use stock k24 IM RBB +spacer and stock TB. What intake will fit? I have injen cai. I have ep3 dc shorty. Is it going to fit k24 and clear front way bar ? Planning to use it till I buy better headers. Is DC5 vibrant RH going to fit in ep3 ? What clutch and flywheel is recommended for k24 + stock 5sp tranny ?
Thanks!

You won't clear the sway bar. I never had an issue without having one in. When I went to my 70mm exhaust it would hit the body a lot until I got stiffer engine mounts.

Use a type s spec flywheel and ep spec clutch. Go stage 2 to make up for the new added tq.

[gtolio]

You won't clear the sway bar. I never had an issue without having one in. When I went to my 70mm exhaust it would hit the body a lot until I got stiffer engine mounts.

Use a type s spec flywheel and ep spec clutch. Go stage 2 to make up for the new added tq.

I thought you had to have a type S clutch if you used a type S flywheel? Not certain, but it seems like that's what I heard.

[AttarixEp]

I thought you had to have a type S clutch if you used a type S flywheel? Not certain, but it seems like that's what I heard.

I have used 2 ep spec clutches in my swap with the type s flywheel. The only dif on the flywheels is the type s has a larger surface for the clutch disc to grab on to.

[gtolio]

I have used 2 ep spec clutches in my swap with the type s flywheel. The only dif on the flywheels is the type s has a larger surface for the clutch disc to grab on to.

Ok, fair enough.

[usedep3]

I have used 2 ep spec clutches in my swap with the type s flywheel. The only dif on the flywheels is the type s has a larger surface for the clutch disc to grab on to.

i thought the pin layout was different between the dc5 & ep3 specs.

[Blah1219]

i thought the pin layout was different between the dc5 & ep3 specs.

I'm pretty sure it is. I believe it has a different pattern. I can check tomorrow. I have the ep3 and dc5s flywheel.

[AttarixEp]

I'm pretty sure it is. I believe it has a different pattern. I can check tomorrow. I have the ep3 and dc5s flywheel.

They are, but most clutch manufacturers make the ep3 clutch kits for use with the type-s flywheel. At least that's how mine came. I've used SPEC(which is on my part out thread to see what it looks like) and have an ACT in use with an Exedy Type-s flywheel. Didn't have to modify either.

[RhINoX^]

Thanks guys for the replies.
So which clutch kit is recommended? I am still running stock clutch,my EP3 only has 70k km. I also have motor mounts inserts.Are those good enough or I have to buy aftermarket mounts ? Which headers are best for NA K24a2 swap? I have 2.5" vibrant cat-back as well.
I am still going to use stock k24a2 IM RBB. Will build custom intake 3" or 3.5".Which would be better ? Will be any benefits from 3.5" intake on stock 06+ cams ?

[iDom]

k24a2 + stock front sway + JRRH & Test Pipe + HKS Hi-Power Exhaust = fitttttt? Rattles? Banging?
Oh yea, Innovative motor mounts too.. Idk if it'll help or change anything, but I figured it could..

I've asked around and heard and read that it does work, and i've heard I might have issues..

[AttarixEp]

k24a2 + stock front sway + JRRH & Test Pipe + HKS Hi-Power Exhaust = fitttttt? Rattles? Banging?
Oh yea, Innovative motor mounts too.. Idk if it'll help or change anything, but I figured it could..

I've asked around and heard and read that it does work, and i've heard I might have issues..

K24a2 sits higher. Depending on exhaust size it will hit the body. My 70mm did. But when I put in innovative 75a mounts. It took care of the problem.

[iDom]

K24a2 sits higher. Depending on exhaust size it will hit the body. My 70mm did. But when I put in innovative 75a mounts. It took care of the problem.

The stiffness of motor mounts you choose won't matter will it?

[Lucid Moments]

The stiffness of motor mounts you choose won't matter will it?

It might. Stiffer motor mounts will keep you motor from moving as much, and if the motor doesn't move as much the exhaust might not hit the bottom of the car, or the sway bar.

[AttarixEp]

The stiffness of motor mounts you choose won't matter will it?

65a is basically an OE replacement with better material. 75a is much stiffer (didn't have vibration unless in low rpm slowing down) 85a is semi solid. So yes, it will make a difference.

[iDom]

Hmm.. Just sucks cause you don't know til you're in there swapping it out.. Buying a new, inferior race header to complete the swap isn't going to make me too happy if that is the case.. Not to mention I will be under a time constraint cause that's my only car. Haha

[AttarixEp]

Hmm.. Just sucks cause you don't know til you're in there swapping it out.. Buying a new, inferior race header to complete the swap isn't going to make me too happy if that is the case.. Not to mention I will be under a time constraint cause that's my only car. Haha

I ran into all the problems too. Took that much longer to figure out the problem, then find the part, then order.

[iDom]

I ran into all the problems too. Took that much longer to figure out the problem, then find the part, then order.

Running without a front sway will be fine for the time being, but buying a new header is just a no no.. I know for a fact my header is EP3 specific, I already am cutting it close though on the O2 sensor wires on the under body of the car, so with this being raised a bit.. Crap, I don't know.. I guess we'll have to just wait and see.
*fingers crossed*

[AttarixEp]

Running without a front sway will be fine for the time being, but buying a new header is just a no no.. I know for a fact my header is EP3 specific, I already am cutting it close though on the O2 sensor wires on the under body of the car, so with this being raised a bit.. Crap, I don't know.. I guess we'll have to just wait and see.
*fingers crossed*

You can use a shorty header. It's a tight fit but works. I used that set up for a couple months before getting a race header

[Powers]

Will the ep3s stock wiring harness work with a k24a2? If not does the tsx engine and charge harness just simpley plug in? I know kpro would be a must but just curious on the wiring.

[j0000stin]

Will the ep3s stock wiring harness work with a k24a2? If not does the tsx engine and charge harness just simpley plug in? I know kpro would be a must but just curious on the wiring.

wiring is the same you just have to extend some of the lines.

[RHCP0801]

you don't have to extend anything, I didn't

[Ba82Ep3]

you don't have to extend anything, I didn't

x2

[LP640]

I'm doing this swap right now and I had to extend the wires to the ect sensor. You'll also find it easier to swap the intake cam sensor from your k20a3.

[iDom]

Will a CRV or Accord Exhaust Manifold gasket work with the k24a2 (TSX) motor? Also, anyone know if the new 2012 Si's Exhaust Manifold would work either?

[RhINoX^]

2012 si`s have integrated exhaust manifold ...so NO

[iDom]

CRV or Accord?

[RHCP0801]

none will work

[Twisted-X]

Which starter should I use, the k24a2 or the k20a3? It looks like the TSX starter has a higher amperage.