My K24a1 Swap Pics!! (56K Go-A-Way)

[03Si757]

Well, Im finally getting pics up of my K24a1 Swap. I still have a few things to work out, this has been a process over the last 3 weeks for me (Working and all), but the swap pretty much happend in 3 days. I did probably 90% of the work myself. I have driven the setup, but due to clutch issues, I havnt driven it long enough. I'll update it when I can.

Enjoy! :drum:

The engine bay gutted out and cleaned up a little due to the old motor EXPLODING (Broke Piston Shaft, punched holes in the motor, Dont know dont ask, it all happend with me going just over 3k RPM's)

http://img159.imageshack.us/img159/3334/front1qb3.jpg

Just some of the stuff Iv picked up along the way for the swap. Most of everything is there, theres maybe a few screws and bolts not there (LOL)

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/1995/supplies1xf1.jpg

The new motor and tranny on the verge of being lined up, but after I clean them up and do a few things such as install the fly/clutch/p. plate.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/2824/enginetranny1ft1.jpg

PROOF! Engine Code for all you doubters/haters/flammers :censored:
(Also picked up the motor with 27,985 Miles for $930 picked up, Drove to ATL to pick it up)

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/7595/engine1pk9.jpg

Droped the motor in, and begin to Hook up a few things here and there.

http://img294.imageshack.us/img294/8672/engine2pe6.jpg

Engine bay from the side, clearance from the hood looks TIGHT.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/2341/front3di3.jpg

Everything pretty much all bolted up. ALMOST ready to go.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/9161/front4wd1.jpg

Last side shot of the car as it sits right now.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/5629/front5kc1.jpg

And a shot of the azz of the car with a new can.

http://img504.imageshack.us/img504/517/back1yv9.jpg

[sidriverep3]

looks good man...i did mine myself too...but it only took us like 12 hours.

let me know if u have any questions about it...im in richmond.

adam

[03Si757]

looks good man...i did mine myself too...but it only took us like 12 hours.

let me know if u have any questions about it...im in richmond.

adam

Know anything about why I may not be able to get the car in gear. I bled the clutch a few times yesterday and it worked, but only for a short period of time. Also, did you have issues with the motor reving up and down between 1k and 2k rpm's with the motor warmed up?

[talonXracer]

Looking nice! Welcome to the BigBlock club!

[03Si757]

Looking nice! Welcome to the BigBlock club!

Thanks man, I def could tell the difference in the short amount of time I drove it.

[Marc-111]

that is just a sick swap.....feels alot different from your old one?

[03Si757]

that is just a sick swap.....feels alot different from your old one?

TOTALLY different, a more sporty feel. I just wish I could have driven it more then for 5 minutes.

[Princess]

Good luck getting things working right.

[EP3_BR3EZE]

Clean sway.

Do people still 56k? Haha

[Deadphishy]

IS that a megan race header? because i'm thinking about getting one. for a cheap fix

[03Si757]

IS that a megan race header? because i'm thinking about getting one. for a cheap fix

No, its actually a OBX race header. On ClubRSX people have found that this header performs better then the Megan Race Header, plus the Megan is VERY hard to come by right now due to everyone waiting for Megan to ship out some.

[Deadphishy]

No, its actually a OBX race header. On ClubRSX people have found that this header performs better then the Megan Race Header, plus the Megan is VERY hard to come by right now due to everyone waiting for Megan to ship out some.

cool the obx is worken out for you. I can get that cheap.

[03Si757]

cool the obx is worken out for you. I can get that cheap.

Its a good quality peice. Worth the $240-270 price tag.

[Deadphishy]

Its a good quality peice. Worth the $240-270 price tag.

and it has no fitment issues with the front sway? or the subframe?

[dcmpbl]

Not sure about the clutch issues, but the revving might be because you need to do the idle relearn procedure....looks good though

[03Si757]

and it has no fitment issues with the front sway? or the subframe?

Well with the K24 swap, there was a BIG fitment issue with the sway. But if your throwing it on just a K20, There shouldnt be a problem at all. I just took the sway off, and I'll be putting a bigger back sway bar on soon.

[Ba82Ep3]

Congrats man! Glad to see you swapped it in yourself and didnt let it get to ya! Your idling problem is probably the IAC. Mine did the same after sitting for a while during the rebuild/swap. After about two weeks of driving it went away on its own and was just fine. Maybe it will do the same for you? Everything i have seen/read on cleaning he IAC looks like you risk breaking an expensive part. >shrugz< There will be some minor bugs to work out after the swap. This July will be a year mine has been swapped... and im problem free to date. >crosses fingers<

[jdmrace1]

congrats man, hope everything will work out!

[clizoman]

Well with the K24 swap, there was a BIG fitment issue with the sway. But if your throwing it on just a K20, There shouldnt be a problem at all. I just took the sway off, and I'll be putting a bigger back sway bar on soon.

yeah i had that prob too..i dont wanna cut and weld...anyone ever find something that will fit?

[03Si757]

yeah i had that prob too..i dont wanna cut and weld...anyone ever find something that will fit?

I really cant tell any different without a sway bar, but I really dont go around corners to fast as well. The steering feels tighter though, but that may be because my alignment is fuked to hell at the moment lol.

[ALL MotoR Ep3]

The Torque on K24's is Amazing....... I know your loving every minute of it.

[03Si757]

The Torque on K24's is Amazing....... I know your loving every minute of it.

AMEN :first:

[shadowmd]

nice!!!!

[davisj3537]

Wicked man:hippie: Hey I also got the Clutch bleeding DIY up.

[bchaney]

Very nice, have any future plans for the k24?

Have you swapped before or is this your first?

[arthur]

congrats!!! hey are you running it with kpro, or stock ecu?? another question, what # are you expecting?? im saving money to do this swap, so im wondering whats the output.

[03Si757]

Thanks Davis for the DIY, but I got it workin now, but im sure someone will be able to use it, so big ups on that man.

Im going to ride it out for some time, and maybe throw a S/C kit on there next year. My next mod (this will answer another question) Is Kpro. I want more control over how my motor runs.

And im not sure about the numbers its putting down but it def feels ALOT more then the stock K20a3 thats for sure. Ima guess and say 170whp/130wtq somewere in that range?

[davisj3537]

You are actually making closer to 170whp and 165wtq:mtongue:

[sleepingblacksi]

nice swap looks realy clean

[03Si757]

You are actually making closer to 170whp and 165wtq:mtongue:

BETTER YET!

But im still :hungry: FOR MORE!!!

[clizoman]

k24all day

[ohdamngetit]

wicked clean swap, great job!

[Ba82Ep3]

FYI, you can get your alignment close to stock by loosening all four subframe bolts... and moving the subframe around and putting it back where it once was. The subframe should have some markings from the bolts and you can tell where it once was. Marking the subframe before disassembly would have made it a piece of cake to get it REALLY close to prior setting. (ill have to show ya mine and how its marked so i can drop it and put it back in the same place each time) Basically, if you are pulling right, the subframe needs to be moved to the right, and vice versa.

[clutch797]

I have a k24a1 swap and i still feel slow. Boost is your friend.

[shadowmd]

keep us posted when ya add mods etc :mcool:

[03Si757]

FYI, you can get your alignment close to stock by loosening all four subframe bolts... and moving the subframe around and putting it back where it once was. The subframe should have some markings from the bolts and you can tell where it once was. Marking the subframe before disassembly would have made it a piece of cake to get it REALLY close to prior setting. (ill have to show ya mine and how its marked so i can drop it and put it back in the same place each time) Basically, if you are pulling right, the subframe needs to be moved to the right, and vice versa.

Well my steering wheel is a little off line aswell. I got a 3 year unlimited alignment thing so I'll just get tred quarters to hook me up. Itll be done first thing in the morning.

[Ba82Ep3]

The swap looks real good! Did you get it diagnosed? Was the ELD your problem? L8

[03Si757]

The swap looks real good! Did you get it diagnosed? Was the ELD your problem? L8

Actually, is was caused by that o2 grounding, and it blew fuse #4 (Alternator Fuse) under the dash, I replaced the fused and fixed the wires on the o2 and now all is good, thank god it wasnt the sensors. BTW the sensors are the 2 on the top right side of the motor near the air/fuel lines. REAL easy to replace, and a good thing is the guy that I gave the motor too stil had some, thats if I needed them. But thanks again man for checking it out for me, now I just gotta fix the o2 cel (Running lean still) and fix the exhaust again. Wont stop banging on the bottom of the car now.

[Ba82Ep3]

Sweet. Fuses are easy fixes. I have some wire loom left over if ya wanna put it over your O2 wires. Im surprised youre runnin lean. Didnt Davis say it was good to go with the 310's?

:noidea:

Get her cleaned up man so we can do some pix!!

:thumb:


EDIT: AH. It wasnt a crank sensor cel it was the cam position sensors! Makes sense now.

[04cvcsi]

Sweet. Fuses are easy fixes. I have some wire loom left over if ya wanna put it over your O2 wires. Im surprised youre runnin lean. Didnt Davis say it was good to go with the 310's?

:noidea:

Get her cleaned up man so we can do some pix!!

:thumb:


EDIT: AH. It wasnt a crank sensor cel it was the cam position sensors! Makes sense now.
yeah, 310cc goes w/ the k24s... i think he said you'll need about 10-15% more fuel when swapping the k24

[03Si757]

Sounds good man. Tomorrow Ima go see what I can do about the exhaust, its starting to hit the bottom of the car badly now, I may get the header pipes extended about an inch, Ima see what can be done so I can maybe throw the sway bar back on aswell. As for the o2, maybe I modded the Defouler wrong or something? Ill see about that too.

[Ba82Ep3]

yeah, 310cc goes w/ the k24s... i think he said you'll need about 10-15% more fuel when swapping the k24

Well, you can run 270's with KPro. I have now for almost a year. The TS is using the OEM ECU for now... and 310's are supposed to give him enough fuel to run. Im just surprised hes running a little lean is all...

[Ba82Ep3]

Sounds good man. Tomorrow Ima go see what I can do about the exhaust, its starting to hit the bottom of the car badly now, I may get the header pipes extended about an inch, Ima see what can be done so I can maybe throw the sway bar back on aswell. As for the o2, maybe I modded the Defouler wrong or something? Ill see about that too.

Well now that you have all the electrical issues fixed, i can put my KPro back in your car... load an a3 basemap to match your ECU, and change the injectors to 310 and we sould be able to get a datalog of how your k24 is running now. It wont be exact, but it will give you a safe ballpark idea at least... Do you have access to a torch? You could heat the bends on the header (NOT the welds) as its coming off the head and pull down on it to possibly give you some more clearance. Same thing where it bends to come up to the 02 sensors... it just wont look as purty when your done.

I need to take ya for a ride... youll want your front swaybar afterwards...

[03Si757]

Well now that you have all the electrical issues fixed, i can put my KPro back in your car... load an a3 basemap to match your ECU, and change the injectors to 310 and we sould be able to get a datalog of how your k24 is running now. It wont be exact, but it will give you a safe ballpark idea at least... Do you have access to a torch? You could heat the bends on the header (NOT the welds) as its coming off the head and pull down on it to possibly give you some more clearance. Same thing where it bends to come up to the 02 sensors... it just wont look as purty when your done.

I need to take ya for a ride... youll want your front swaybar afterwards...

Well I got the header adjusted today, and thank god, now I need to work on the CEL.

Ya I CAN feel the difference in not having the sway bar, but it isnt to much of a big deal for me right now, some time in the future I do plan on getting the one I have modified to fit, Hit up an iron shop and see what they can do about it. But ya man, the Kpro thing sounds good. Lemme know when is good for you and ill come through, im off this sunday BTW.

[shadowmd]

nice man. keep it up!

[04cvcsi]

Well, you can run 270's with KPro. I have now for almost a year. The TS is using the OEM ECU for now... and 310's are supposed to give him enough fuel to run. Im just surprised hes running a little lean is all...
why don't you upgrade to 310cc? are you running lean?

[davisj3537]

Hey man list your mods real quick. I might have a good tune for you to start with and it also might explain why you are running lean.

[03Si757]

Hey man list your mods real quick. I might have a good tune for you to start with and it also might explain why you are running lean.

K24a1, 310 Injectors, OBX Race Header, DC5 Midpipe, Megan EP3 Axel Back, Injen CAI (RSX-S) Clutchnet Fiber carbon clutch Disc, Clutchnet Red Pressure Plate, EP3 Flywheel, Stock ECU.

Thats it for now.

[davisj3537]

You said you are running lean is that correct? What kind of a/f numbers are we looking at?

[03Si757]

You said you are running lean is that correct? What kind of a/f numbers are we looking at?

I dont have a clue, Ima try to get up with dave and hook up Kpro and ill get some info from that and let ya know.

[davisj3537]

I dont have a clue, Ima try to get up with dave and hook up Kpro and ill get some info from that and let ya know.

cool man. I ran the k24a1 and stock ecu w/ rsx injectors for quite a few months with no problems....? I didn't have any bolt ons though...

[Ba82Ep3]

why don't you upgrade to 310cc? are you running lean?

Nah man i just dropped in modded 270's. Im far from lean. LOL My 270's were apparently overworked though (for my setup anyways). The TS (Chris) mentioned HIS was lean though.

I think im off Sunday too. Either Sunday or Monday. Ill know for sure after i go into work tomorrow. Either way im off work after 3 tomorrow. I was at a Tides ballgame tonight...

L8

[03Si757]

Nah man i just dropped in modded 270's. Im far from lean. LOL My 270's were apparently overworked though (for my setup anyways). The TS (Chris) mentioned HIS was lean though.

I think im off Sunday too. Either Sunday or Monday. Ill know for sure after i go into work tomorrow. Either way im off work after 3 tomorrow. I was at a Tides ballgame tonight...

L8

OK, sounds good, ill hit you up when ever, tonight I developed a oil leakage problem while working. its just drips, but the whole under body is glazed with motor oil. Im tryna pinpoint if its motor oil or transmission fluid, hard to tell in the dark, so ima have to check on that tomorrow and really clean up the engine and see if I can pinpoint where its leaking. I dont need to blow this motor too due to oil leakage. This has been a pain of little small things. Atleast I got the header to stop hitting and the clutch to work lol.

[Ba82Ep3]

OK, sounds good, ill hit you up when ever, tonight I developed a oil leakage problem while working. its just drips, but the whole under body is glazed with motor oil. Im tryna pinpoint if its motor oil or transmission fluid, hard to tell in the dark, so ima have to check on that tomorrow and really clean up the engine and see if I can pinpoint where its leaking. I dont need to blow this motor too due to oil leakage. This has been a pain of little small things. Atleast I got the header to stop hitting and the clutch to work lol.


LOL yeah... i had both a rear main seal blow AND the two tranny seals (axle seals, one on each side... like 7$ a piece) go when my tranny decided to spit out the intermediate shaft. It busted the bearing in the bearing support (three bolts that hold it to the back of the block) and when i added throttle, the intermediate shaft would slide out of the tranny and sling tranny fluid everywhere. After that was all fixed, THEN i found the rear main seal leak (had to pull the engine AGAIN). Its hard to tell what was what yanno? Slick (and smelled) like tranny fluid but darker like oil. Its another reason i dont launch the car really hard in 1st or drop it into 2nd. That intermediate shaft aint cheap... its bad enough my stock axle splines are pointed and showing wear.

I doubt you have an oil leak... especially if you didnt remove the oil pan/TCT cover ETC. You prolly just bumped the axle tranny seals when installing the axles and either nicked em up, or bent em just a bit to allow leakage. (Or you forgot to push the driver side axle in till the ring snaps into place... and its allowing leakage. Check for a large gap between the seal and the last lip on the driver side axle... it should be fairly close to it... it will vary with seal depth installation tho...)

[03Si757]

LOL yeah... i had both a rear main seal blow AND the two tranny seals (axle seals, one on each side... like 7$ a piece) go when my tranny decided to spit out the intermediate shaft. It busted the bearing in the bearing support (three bolts that hold it to the back of the block) and when i added throttle, the intermediate shaft would slide out of the tranny and sling tranny fluid everywhere. After that was all fixed, THEN i found the rear main seal leak (had to pull the engine AGAIN). Its hard to tell what was what yanno? Slick (and smelled) like tranny fluid but darker like oil. Its another reason i dont launch the car really hard in 1st or drop it into 2nd. That intermediate shaft aint cheap... its bad enough my stock axle splines are pointed and showing wear.

I doubt you have an oil leak... especially if you didnt remove the oil pan/TCT cover ETC. You prolly just bumped the axle tranny seals when installing the axles and either nicked em up, or bent em just a bit to allow leakage. (Or you forgot to push the driver side axle in till the ring snaps into place... and its allowing leakage. Check for a large gap between the seal and the last lip on the driver side axle... it should be fairly close to it... it will vary with seal depth installation tho...)

Most of the oil or what ever it is... is on the passanger side of the car, if not all of it is. I was thinking maybe timing chain cover leaking? But ima check the drive tran out tomorrow.

[03Si757]

It seems to be coming out of the oil pan on the right side of the pan, ima throw some temp liquid gasket in the scemes of where it looks to be coming out of. Im sure when the oil pressure builds up, it spews out of there, well see, worst come to shove, ill drop the pan and seal it off right.

[56chevydan]

I don't think you mentioned this in this post, but I'm curious if you removed/installed the engine from the top or did you remove/install it from the bottom by removing the crossmember??

[03Si757]

I don't think you mentioned this in this post, but I'm curious if you removed/installed the engine from the top or did you remove/install it from the bottom by removing the crossmember??

I removed and installed the motor and transmission from the top. To much of a pain to do it all from droping it.

[Lost03si]

Can't wait for mines to go in. I just got in my clutch/PP for clutchnet a few days ago and it looks fricken nice. Now I just got to order misc parts like plugs,belt and other little crap

[davisj3537]

It seems to be coming out of the oil pan on the right side of the pan, ima throw some temp liquid gasket in the scemes of where it looks to be coming out of. Im sure when the oil pressure builds up, it spews out of there, well see, worst come to shove, ill drop the pan and seal it off right.

I really reccomend pulling the pan. The sealant wont want to stick too good since there is oil up in the "seal" between the pan and block.

[talonXracer]

Probably a front seal going bad. The oil gets flung onto the pan and front cover. Look under the crank pulley and feel if there is any oily deposits behind the pulley.

[03Si757]

Probably a front seal going bad. The oil gets flung onto the pan and front cover. Look under the crank pulley and feel if there is any oily deposits behind the pulley.

Front seal, where is this exactly?

Please tell me its not behind the crank pully. I really dont want to mess with that.

[Ba82Ep3]

Front seal, where is this exactly?

Please tell me its not behind the crank pully. I really dont want to mess with that.

Yep, the crank pully has to come off... the seal is right behind it in the timing chain cover...

[03Si757]

Yep, the crank pully has to come off... the seal is right behind it in the timing chain cover...

God I hope thats not what it is. Just got my oil pan back on, ill see if it fixes the problem.

Is it on the outside or inside of the timing chain cover? God im hoping i dont have to take the chain cover off.

[davisj3537]

I'm pretty sure you don't have to pull the cover. I almost had to change one not long ago and after pulling the pulley off it looked very easy to change if you can get the old one out easily. Getting that pulley off is the big fucking problem though. You can either use a special socket that fits the groove around the bolt($60)...Or you can use a chain wrench with a thick towel or shirt between it and the pulley.

[Lost03si]

I'm pretty sure you don't have to pull the cover. I almost had to change one not long ago and after pulling the pulley off it looked very easy to change if you can get the old one out easily. Getting that pulley off is the big fucking problem though. You can either use a special socket that fits the groove around the bolt($60)...Or you can use a chain wrench with a thick towel or shirt between it and the pulley.

Here is a cheap Crank pulley tool. My friend has it and works wonders. $24.99
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648796-Crankcase-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1209977737&sr=8-1

[davisj3537]

Here is a cheap Crank pulley tool. My friend has it and works wonders. $24.99
http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648796-Crankcase-Pulley-Removal/dp/B0000TMLWQ/ref=pd_bbs_sr_1?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1209977737&sr=8-1

Hell yeah! that is the socket I was talking about. 24.99!!!Sweet! I'm gonna buy 10.lol.jk

[03Si757]

Hell yeah! that is the socket I was talking about. 24.99!!!Sweet! I'm gonna buy 10.lol.jk

I think ill just rent one, I dont plan on doing this more then once, well I hope I wont have to.

[03Si757]

Now that I got all other issues fixed for now, 1 issue is still left, my CEL is still on for running to lean, is there something I should check or adjust?

As much as I would like to have KPro, I cannot afford right now so thats out the window.

[davisj3537]

Now that I got all other issues fixed for now, 1 issue is still left, my CEL is still on for running to lean, is there something I should check or adjust?

As much as I would like to have KPro, I cannot afford right now so thats out the window.

Without kpro there is nothing you can do. You need to drive it very easy untill you can get kpro. I could always take off your bolt ons and then you wouldn't run lean.lol.

[03Si757]

Without kpro there is nothing you can do. You need to drive it very easy untill you can get kpro. I could always take off your bolt ons and then you wouldn't run lean.lol.

I was thinking it may just be the defouler not working for me? Or maybe I have a o2 thats fryed due to my recent experience?

[davisj3537]

I was thinking it may just be the defouler not working for me? Or maybe I have a o2 thats fryed due to my recent experience?

Well its not the defouler cuz it would not give you a lean code. It could be the 02 going out...?

[03Si757]

I really cant afford $900+ right now, but a local shop that I found on Hondata website does the Hondata installs (KPro and Reflash) Would a Reflash work for now?

[davisj3537]

I really cant afford $900+ right now, but a local shop that I found on Hondata website does the Hondata installs (KPro and Reflash) Would a Reflash work for now?

It might make it worse...:mconfused:I don't know sir.

[03Si757]

It might make it worse...:mconfused:I don't know sir.

Well, called the shop and talked to the tech that does the installs on KPro and he actually said he can hook me up with a deal, I gotta get a full dyno tune session with the Kpro and hell do it for $1100 flat. All this in 1 day aswell. I CAN afford it, but i really dont want to pay that much, but Iv been reading that running lean is very harmfull to the piston heads, so I need to get this fixed before something major happends and im swaping the motor again.

[davisj3537]

Well, called the shop and talked to the tech that does the installs on KPro and he actually said he can hook me up with a deal, I gotta get a full dyno tune session with the Kpro and hell do it for $1100 flat. All this in 1 day aswell. I CAN afford it, but i really dont want to pay that much, but Iv been reading that running lean is very harmfull to the piston heads, so I need to get this fixed before something major happends and im swaping the motor again.

Sounds cool man. If you just can't afford kpro and a tune you can always buy a used kpro for around 800 and I can street tune that hoe for you untill you get the money for a dyno tune.

[03Si757]

Sounds cool man. If you just can't afford kpro and a tune you can always buy a used kpro for around 800 and I can street tune that hoe for you untill you get the money for a dyno tune.

Now the thing is finding a used one and getting it from someone that wont rip you off lol. I may just buy it new, its not like itll really loose its value.

[CivicS]

nice ...any video?

[03Si757]

nice ...any video?

workin out the kinks first, next mods are new (performance) motor mounts and KPRO!