05silversi
04-26-2008, 03:40 PM
Posting this one back up, saved because I had a duplicate thread on crsx.
Why you want it:
It's essentially a race header -- 4-2-1 with a metallic cat. Not polished and pretty, but don't see it on the car anyway. And you're getting factory looks, fit, and reliability -- no banging on the subframe or flex joint failures and a smog tech or cop can't tell it from stock.
What you need:
It's bolt-on -- simple remove and replace with a few extras required. You will need: 1) ITR manifold and cat, 2) type-S or ITR midpipe, 3) ~6" extension lead for the secondary o2, and 4) gaskets -- that's it. NO clearance issues with stock front sway.
You reuse all the factory hardware, in addition you will want/need:
gasket @ head --- 18115-PRB-A01
gasket @ b-pipe -- 18393-SS0-J30
gasket @ flex ---- 18212-SM4-003
donut gasket------ 18229-S01-X11
12mm nut (x2) ---- 90215-SB0-003 (for 2nd downpipe)
All available from US Honda.
Sourcing the parts:
Expect $300-500 in parts for the install. There are deals out there, but beware, you will spend more in the long run fixing a piece of junk.
Manifold: get it from one of the JDM motor import vendors or classifieds on clubrsx.
1) it will be rusty, just surface rust, doesn't affect function. Options are: have it blasted and ceramic coated or buy new from Japan ~$300 shipped.
2) the heatshields will probably be dinged or missing. If they're beat, don't see them on the car anyway. Missing, go naked or get them from Japan ~$50 each shipped.
3) the studs will probably be damaged or missing. The studs are not available as a separate part from Honda or as generic hardware because they are extra fine 1.25 thread pitch. Replacement options are: 1) use bolts -- 12mm, 1.25 pitch bolts are available. 2) make studs by cutting the heads off and threading the head ends of 1.25 pitch bolts. 3) have a machine shop rethread or helicoil the manifold to 1.75 pitch -- these studs are available. Conclusion: find one with good studs or pay very little for it because there will be a repair bill.
Cat: same source as the manifold, make sure it has shields and isn't bent from accident. If the studs are damaged, these are available from Honda US.
Midpipe: they're cheap used if you can find one local on craigslist or clubrsx -- got mine for $50. Because of length, package will be oversized so probably won't pay to ship. Can't find used local, get it new from Acura ~$150.
o2 extension: get it here
http://www.casperselectronics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CEI&Product_Code=109200&Category_Code=
or here
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/CLU-O2EXT-p-EXO2.html
The install:
Same as a race header. You will need to R&R the axle guard and the swaybar clamps for clearance. Use the ITR rubber hangar on the cat if you have it -- hangs 1/2" closer to the bottom of the car. VERY IMPORTANT: make sure you install the lower heatshield onto the manifold before installing it to the head, it's a bitch getting it on after.
Here's a comparison of the manifolds. Yours probably won't look like that, it's brand spankin new.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header01.jpg
The cats. Couldn't show it in pics, but the ITR is definitely a better cat, metallic substrate vs ceramic. Car is probably no longer LEV, but it will pass visual and sniffer.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header02.jpg
Midpipes. Went with the smaller 02-04 to minimize low-end torque loss. IMO the a3 with stock redline doesn't need the larger dia. If you have the k20a or a2 or boost or even kpro, probably want the larger 05-06 or ITR pipe.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header04.jpg
Guess which one is stock? WTF is with that tiny tube -- if you do nothing else to your car, get a midpipe.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header05.jpg
Comparison of o2 sensors: the blue and white are stock, the black and green are ITR/CTR. You can see that the shorter primary will be tight but will work, but the secondary will need extension.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header03.jpg
Why you want it:
It's essentially a race header -- 4-2-1 with a metallic cat. Not polished and pretty, but don't see it on the car anyway. And you're getting factory looks, fit, and reliability -- no banging on the subframe or flex joint failures and a smog tech or cop can't tell it from stock.
What you need:
It's bolt-on -- simple remove and replace with a few extras required. You will need: 1) ITR manifold and cat, 2) type-S or ITR midpipe, 3) ~6" extension lead for the secondary o2, and 4) gaskets -- that's it. NO clearance issues with stock front sway.
You reuse all the factory hardware, in addition you will want/need:
gasket @ head --- 18115-PRB-A01
gasket @ b-pipe -- 18393-SS0-J30
gasket @ flex ---- 18212-SM4-003
donut gasket------ 18229-S01-X11
12mm nut (x2) ---- 90215-SB0-003 (for 2nd downpipe)
All available from US Honda.
Sourcing the parts:
Expect $300-500 in parts for the install. There are deals out there, but beware, you will spend more in the long run fixing a piece of junk.
Manifold: get it from one of the JDM motor import vendors or classifieds on clubrsx.
1) it will be rusty, just surface rust, doesn't affect function. Options are: have it blasted and ceramic coated or buy new from Japan ~$300 shipped.
2) the heatshields will probably be dinged or missing. If they're beat, don't see them on the car anyway. Missing, go naked or get them from Japan ~$50 each shipped.
3) the studs will probably be damaged or missing. The studs are not available as a separate part from Honda or as generic hardware because they are extra fine 1.25 thread pitch. Replacement options are: 1) use bolts -- 12mm, 1.25 pitch bolts are available. 2) make studs by cutting the heads off and threading the head ends of 1.25 pitch bolts. 3) have a machine shop rethread or helicoil the manifold to 1.75 pitch -- these studs are available. Conclusion: find one with good studs or pay very little for it because there will be a repair bill.
Cat: same source as the manifold, make sure it has shields and isn't bent from accident. If the studs are damaged, these are available from Honda US.
Midpipe: they're cheap used if you can find one local on craigslist or clubrsx -- got mine for $50. Because of length, package will be oversized so probably won't pay to ship. Can't find used local, get it new from Acura ~$150.
o2 extension: get it here
http://www.casperselectronics.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=CEI&Product_Code=109200&Category_Code=
or here
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/CLU-O2EXT-p-EXO2.html
The install:
Same as a race header. You will need to R&R the axle guard and the swaybar clamps for clearance. Use the ITR rubber hangar on the cat if you have it -- hangs 1/2" closer to the bottom of the car. VERY IMPORTANT: make sure you install the lower heatshield onto the manifold before installing it to the head, it's a bitch getting it on after.
Here's a comparison of the manifolds. Yours probably won't look like that, it's brand spankin new.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header01.jpg
The cats. Couldn't show it in pics, but the ITR is definitely a better cat, metallic substrate vs ceramic. Car is probably no longer LEV, but it will pass visual and sniffer.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header02.jpg
Midpipes. Went with the smaller 02-04 to minimize low-end torque loss. IMO the a3 with stock redline doesn't need the larger dia. If you have the k20a or a2 or boost or even kpro, probably want the larger 05-06 or ITR pipe.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header04.jpg
Guess which one is stock? WTF is with that tiny tube -- if you do nothing else to your car, get a midpipe.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header05.jpg
Comparison of o2 sensors: the blue and white are stock, the black and green are ITR/CTR. You can see that the shorter primary will be tight but will work, but the secondary will need extension.
http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e349/rbocz/header03.jpg