Anyone Seen this JL

[Danny J]

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30


Its flat like a pancake and comes in a 13". Curious to know if anyone has heard these in person? also depth wise, it seems like it would fit in the rear speaker panel. but will the diameter fit?

[K-Shark]

the diameter wouldn't fit. that sub is exactly twice the size of our rear speaker holes which measure 6.5".

[Danny J]

Damn...I'm really trying to get a set of subs to fit into those rear speaker panels. I guess custom work would be to much of a hassel to make those work. How about any word on the JL 6W3v3??

http://www.crutchfield.com/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=520&i=1366W3V34&tp=111

[bchaney]

Check out CDT Audio, they sell 6.5" midbass drivers.

Also from what I've heard the rear openings are very deep.

[Danny J]

Check out CDT Audio, they sell 6.5" midbass drivers.

Also from what I've heard the rear openings are very deep.

Thats what i hear too. It spawned this idea of mine on saving my hatch. Though i would rather put an 8" but i dont think that would fit either

[K-Shark]

elemental designs has a 6.5" subwoofer that i hear is of AWESOME quality and an attractive price tag to boot.

i'm thinking about picking these up to put in the back speaker holes...iirc they were a tight fit though.

a couple of members on here had some, but this was before the crash so alot of info has been lost.

[Danny J]

stupid crash.....

[Princess]

for a big speaker that sure is a skinny speaker

I wonder how it sounds... it's JL so it couldn't be too bad

[Danny J]

Thats what i'm assuming but you never know. Might look good on paper....so who's going to be a test dummy???.....(i might be one myself, depending on which setup i roll with)

[Windchaser]

damn thing is huge! I don't need a radio

[civictype_r04]

Yea that sub sounds awesome. JL is the best in the best when it come to systems.

[lil_Eggy]

wow...that looks awesome

i'm hating the huge depth required for my w7.

seems like a nice alternative if i had the $$

[Danny J]

Yea it seems to good to be true! I really wanna try it but i'm really tryin to get subs in my rear panels. Does anyone know the name of the sub that Element desgin makes thats only 6.5"

[K-Shark]

BAM!

http://www.edesignaudio.com/product_info.php?cPath=1_21&products_id=33

these are the new version of the eu-700's. read the reviews people left for them...makes me want them even more.

[Chad]

wow...that looks awesome

i'm hating the huge depth required for my w7.

seems like a nice alternative if i had the $$

I HIGHLY doubt that it has the excursion capabilities and motor strength of the W7 but for those that want to try an under-seat mount or a cool pickup truck install I think it's a much more viable option than the other options out there. If I did not HAVE to go shallow mount then I would certainly stick with a conventional basket geometry.

When shoppng for subs to go in the rear spots you want to look for a driver that has a highish Qts, .7 is preferable but certainly no lower than say .55, you are essentially in an IB situation, I would also mass load the hell out of the inside of that body skin, I had my rears out for some-odd reason recently and found out that the body panel rings like crazy, in fact, I'm SURE that's giving me some issues and I plan to take care of that area soon.

For the record I'm not a massive sound-deadner nut but I do believe in spot-treating problem areas and that is certainly one of them!

Chad

[Danny J]

I HIGHLY doubt that it has the excursion capabilities and motor strength of the W7 but for those that want to try an under-seat mount or a cool pickup truck install I think it's a much more viable option than the other options out there. If I did not HAVE to go shallow mount then I would certainly stick with a conventional basket geometry.

When shoppng for subs to go in the rear spots you want to look for a driver that has a highish Qts, .7 is preferable but certainly no lower than say .55, you are essentially in an IB situation, I would also mass load the hell out of the inside of that body skin, I had my rears out for some-odd reason recently and found out that the body panel rings like crazy, in fact, I'm SURE that's giving me some issues and I plan to take care of that area soon.

For the record I'm not a massive sound-deadner nut but I do believe in spot-treating problem areas and that is certainly one of them!

Chad




What do you mean by "IB situation". Yea i'm really planning on sound proofing that area. Since my panels are more or less going to be my box. Any suggest besides say Dynomat? Sorry, also what does Qts mean. I would like to consider myself a rookie not so much as a noob when it comes to audio, still need to learn some terms. Thanks Guys!!!

[K-Shark]

What do you mean by "IB situation". Yea i'm really planning on sound proofing that area. Since my panels are more or less going to be my box. Any suggest besides say Dynomat? Sorry, also what does Qts mean. I would like to consider myself a rookie not so much as a noob when it comes to audio, still need to learn some terms. Thanks Guys!!!

IB = infinite baffle.

IB as opposed to an enclosure (i.e. sub-box, etc.).

again i would like to recommend Elemental Design sound deadning...i don't personally have any in my car, but i've heard nothing but RAVE reviews about it.

before the site crash i know some members had some in their car and gave their own impressions...

[Danny J]

K-shark is there any other models in there line of 6.5".....Yea to bad i thought IB was Iso Baric style box (dont know if i spelled that right). So is this really going to be as easy as it sounds when it comes to this setup. Swap out rear speakers and replace with these subs. Add some sound deadning material and prob make brackets to hold sub in place?

[Chad]

Qts is a driver specification derived from motor strength and mechanical resistance. It basically means at what rate it rolls off in an infinite baffle situation and how well it will behave without enclosure loading.

There will Be

Qes Electrical Q derived from the inductance and impedance of the driver
Qms Mechanical Q from suspension compliance
Qts the total Q of the driver with all things factored in.

[K-Shark]

K-shark is there any other models in there line of 6.5".....Yea to bad i thought IB was Iso Baric style box (dont know if i spelled that right). So is this really going to be as easy as it sounds when it comes to this setup. Swap out rear speakers and replace with these subs. Add some sound deadning material and prob make brackets to hold sub in place?

as far as i know those are the only ED subs that come in the 6.5 flavor. as far as install goes, i believe it was a tight fit and the person put alot of dynamat behind the sub because every now and then it would hit the side/panel under heavy base. i also think it would be essential for you to add an amp to the combo as well.

i know JL audio makes a 6.5 sub too, but it was considerably more expensive.

[xsimplistikaznx]

http://mobile.jlaudio.com/products_subs.php?series_id=30


Its flat like a pancake and comes in a 13". Curious to know if anyone has heard these in person? also depth wise, it seems like it would fit in the rear speaker panel. but will the diameter fit?

i wish i could see them in person b/c i like that flat pancake style ahah. i bet it sounds good too!

[Chad]

9.7MM of XMax
85dB sens

Meh, go with a Dayton reference that's 1/3 the price, has shorting rings, and is still pretty damn shallow for a conventional basket driver.

Chad

[lil_Eggy]

I HIGHLY doubt that it has the excursion capabilities and motor strength of the W7 but for those that want to try an under-seat mount or a cool pickup truck install I think it's a much more viable option than the other options out there. If I did not HAVE to go shallow mount then I would certainly stick with a conventional basket geometry.

When shoppng for subs to go in the rear spots you want to look for a driver that has a highish Qts, .7 is preferable but certainly no lower than say .55, you are essentially in an IB situation, I would also mass load the hell out of the inside of that body skin, I had my rears out for some-odd reason recently and found out that the body panel rings like crazy, in fact, I'm SURE that's giving me some issues and I plan to take care of that area soon.

For the record I'm not a massive sound-deadner nut but I do believe in spot-treating problem areas and that is certainly one of them!

Chad

I guess I should have clarified my statement more....

I now want a sub with a much shallower mounting depth than my w7....I understand that there are tradeoffs inherent with going with a speaker that has a shorter travel, but i think the shallower mounting depth would be more beneficial for me in my particular application

[Chad]

I guess I should have clarified my statement more....

I now want a sub with a much shallower mounting depth than my w7....I understand that there are tradeoffs inherent with going with a speaker that has a shorter travel, but i think the shallower mounting depth would be more beneficial for me in my particular application

There are many more "conventional basket" drivers out there that are MUCH shallower than the W7 (wonderful driver BTW) that will outperform the shallow JL easily for 1/2 to 1/3 the price.

[lil_Eggy]

There are many more "conventional basket" drivers out there that are MUCH shallower than the W7 (wonderful driver BTW) that will outperform the shallow JL easily for 1/2 to 1/3 the price.

are they as thin, shallow mounting depth and lightweight as the 13tw5 with the same power output?


i'm looking to comparable alternatives with the same quality and power output of this sub

[Chad]

are they as thin, shallow mounting depth and lightweight as the 13tw5 with the same power output?


i'm looking to comparable alternatives with the same quality and power output of this sub

Not as thin but there are many under 6". The problem is that you have to rob Peter to pay Paul, the W7 has a hell of a motor on it and is overbuilt, it's a great driver if you have the room for it to be happy in the right box and need a shit-ton of clean low end.

Do you feel that it is loafing in your car with the power you are applying, or do you think you are using it to it's full potential, or halfass in between?

that alone will give you the answer as to how much you can lose in total output and leave you with a reliable system.

Think about that, how much are you REALLY using, say 75% of the time, and then you can lose the rest, I'll bet we can cut your space requirements down and still have nice, clean low end.

[lil_Eggy]

Not as thin but there are many under 6". The problem is that you have to rob Peter to pay Paul, the W7 has a hell of a motor on it and is overbuilt, it's a great driver if you have the room for it to be happy in the right box and need a shit-ton of clean low end.

Do you feel that it is loafing in your car with the power you are applying, or do you think you are using it to it's full potential, or halfass in between?

that alone will give you the answer as to how much you can lose in total output and leave you with a reliable system.

Think about that, how much are you REALLY using, say 75% of the time, and then you can lose the rest, I'll bet we can cut your space requirements down and still have nice, clean low end.

i have a 500/1 pushing my 10w7.....

i rarely utilize the full output capabilities, so that is why i'm looking for an alternative that would give me more hatch space back

[Chad]

You can get some back no problem and if done right sellt eh W7 and still have some "walking cash" to spare. You can go for getting some back or allback, i have ALL my square footage and lost about 4" in height IIRC.

Depends on how in-depth you want to go and you fab skills (more like patience)

[ryko]

i <3 ED to teh max!