Amsoil 5W40, impressions so far...

[talonXracer]

Well I have put 3000 miles on the Amsoil 5W40 Euro flavor and Mobil1 M110 filter now and so far I like it(gonna swap in a new filter this weekend).

I will be sending a oil sample out to Blackstone at 6000 miles. Since this is the first go round with the Amsoil it is the next test I really want to see.

I did notice the oil pressure being higher and a bit more stable when the temps go up and you are in city driving. The engine feels just as "free" as it did with the RP(Mobil1 makes the engine feel "sluggish").

BUT the best part is that in 3000 miles I have only gone thru 3/4 of a quart!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
With the RP in the engine, I would have gone thru at least 2.5 to 3 quarts by now! And the Mobil1 would have gone thru 2 quarts at least! So economically the higher priced Amsoil is paying for itself.

[Ba82Ep3]

Damn. Do you visit the red on your tach often or what? Thats alot of oil use for Mobil1. I know RP doesnt last long... but i run Mobil1 in both the k24 and the k20z in the 06 FG. Either barely use a quart between changes. (5k for the FG and 4k for the EP).

[talonXracer]

I live in the mountains, of course I bang Vtec all the time! LOL The sound of the K2's snarling thru the RBC, echoing off the mountains is awesome! Music to the ears....

[Ba82Ep3]

LOL! Yep... i think i would too. Well... minus the snarl of cams and VTEC anyways. haha

[RedSiBaron]

I live in the mountains, of course I bang Vtec all the time! LOL The sound of the K2's snarling thru the RBC, echoing off the mountains is awesome! Music to the ears....

im jealous, i want roads like that...

would you suggest i run the 5w30 amsoil in the stock k20a3 with just i/h/e or should i run 5w40 for summer then 5w30 for winter or 5w40 all the time...im just unsure, dont want to switch from rp until im going to permanently switch, i dont like switching oil all the time

[bchaney]

talon i thought you recommended 10w30 for summer.

[T_Virus]

I live in the mountains, of course I bang Vtec all the time! LOL The sound of the K2's snarling thru the RBC, echoing off the mountains is awesome! Music to the ears....

I want to have that feeling one day...:mcry:

[jdm_ep3]

amsoil is good but cost too much. i just go to a local wal mart and get the mobile 1 for 25 bucks for 5 qt jugg of extended performance

[SLOW EP3]

In for Blackstone results....

Let's get scientific up in here peeps...I'm sick of "opinions" and butt-dynos. :mbiggrin:

[talonXracer]

talon i thought you recommended 10w30 for summer.


It depends on alot of factors,,,but I suggest the 5w30 at the bare minimum for a stock car. Any mods and or real hot climate/hard driving will benefit from the 10w30, the next step is 5w40/10w40. I would not use anything thicker than a 40 weight, regardless of the mods if it is a DD. The thicker the oil is, the less RPM potential before the oil pump cavitates. If it is a track only engine that sees a proper warm-up and cool-down routine, a thicker oil "could" be used.


I may try the 10w40 for summer time fun.



amsoil is good but cost too much. i just go to a local wal mart and get the mobile 1 for 25 bucks for 5 qt jugg of extended performance

I would gladly pay 10$ more for the oil when I dont have to add 2-3 quarts every 3000 miles. I will come out much further ahead with the Amsoil for total costs for the entire oil change interval.
Amsoil was 35$ for the initial change and an additional "1" quart for a total cost of 42$

Mobil1 25$ for the initial change, then another 4 quarts(on the low side)20$, for a total of 45$ or so. (and it makes the engine feel sluggish)

And the RP is even more expensive per OCI. 30$ for the initial change and then at least 5 more quarts for a 6000 mile OCI for a total cost of 60$ or so

[Kodeen]

With the RP in the engine, I would have gone thru at least 2.5 to 3 quarts by now!

Holy crapdogs! I realize that you're engine has a lot more to it than mine & you probably drive aggressively more often than I do, but that is way more loss than I have with RP. I didn't even loose a quart after 5k. What weight were you using?

[RedSiBaron]

It depends on alot of factors,,,but I suggest the 5w30 at the bare minimum for a stock car. Any mods and or real hot climate/hard driving will benefit from the 10w30, the next step is 5w40/10w40. I would not use anything thicker than a 40 weight, regardless of the mods if it is a DD. The thicker the oil is, the less RPM potential before the oil pump cavitates. If it is a track only engine that sees a proper warm-up and cool-down routine, a thicker oil "could" be used.


I may try the 10w40 for summer time fun.




I would gladly pay 10$ more for the oil when I dont have to add 2-3 quarts every 3000 miles. I will come out much further ahead with the Amsoil for total costs for the entire oil change interval.
Amsoil was 35$ for the initial change and an additional "1" quart for a total cost of 42$

Mobil1 25$ for the initial change, then another 4 quarts(on the low side)20$, for a total of 45$ or so. (and it makes the engine feel sluggish)

And the RP is even more expensive per OCI. 30$ for the initial change and then at least 5 more quarts for a 6000 mile OCI for a total cost of 60$ or so

thanks man!!

i should also mention you will get better gas mileage with the amsoil or RP than the mobile 1...so thats like 30 to 50 more miles per tank, and thats like 10 fillups per 3000 miles which means 1 or 2 gallons worth of added miles per fillup and at current gas prices that means you are saving prolly 40 to 80 bucks just by using the better oil...it pays for itself...

yah thats loose math but you get the idea...

[talonXracer]

^^^^^yeah that^^^^^^

The Mobil1 made the engine feel sluggish compared to the RP/Amsoil, and the mileage was down slightly.

[Mighty_Mouse]

im jealous, i want roads like that...

would you suggest i run the 5w30 amsoil in the stock k20a3 with just i/h/e or should i run 5w40 for summer then 5w30 for winter or 5w40 all the time...im just unsure, dont want to switch from rp until im going to permanently switch, i dont like switching oil all the time
Are you joking about 5w40 year round in a stock K20A3? LOL

Amsoil's 0w30 is tough to beat at any price.

[RedSiBaron]

Are you joking about 5w40 year round in a stock K20A3? LOL



its called a question ass...im asking doug a question about oil because im trying to understand his logic for the oil weight, if i were just going to make a decision without input id just put 5w30 in and be done, but if theres logic behind it, which he posted, then im going with it...

[Soprano21]

Are you joking about 5w40 year round in a stock K20A3? LOL

Amsoil's 0w30 is tough to beat at any price.






its called a question ass...im asking doug a question about oil because im trying to understand his logic for the oil weight, if i were just going to make a decision without input id just put 5w30 in and be done, but if theres logic behind it, which he posted, then im going with it...




http://smiliesftw.com/x/Polned.gif (http://smiliesftw.com)

[talonXracer]

I wouldnt use a 5w40 in the winter in a stock A3. I also wouldnt use 0w30 unless I lived in an extremely frigid climate, with sub zero temps for extended periods.

[Chad]

I can't believe your oil consumption results, Maybe my slip is showing under my skirt and I drive like a wuss but I use NONE, nadadrop, but I'm stock, but every now and then......

[RedSiBaron]

I wouldnt use a 5w40 in the winter in a stock A3. I also wouldnt use 0w30 unless I lived in an extremely frigid climate, with sub zero temps for extended periods.

sweet exactly why i asked if i should run 5w40 in summer and 5w30 in winter...

i think im just going to run the 5w30 year round with the mobile 1 filter...after hearing what you said about the s2k filter having issues at higher rpms im off that idea...but before i switch to amsoil im going to make sure i can find it somewhere in cincinnati and dayton ohio first...if i know that, then im set to run it

[talonXracer]

sweet exactly why i asked if i should run 5w40 in summer and 5w30 in winter...

i think im just going to run the 5w30 year round with the mobile 1 filter...after hearing what you said about the s2k filter having issues at higher rpms im off that idea...but before i switch to amsoil im going to make sure i can find it somewhere in cincinnati and dayton ohio first...if i know that, then im set to run it

You can always order it online, usually the same price. And hell, at the cost of a gallon of gas it isnt worth driving around looking anymore.

[RedSiBaron]

You can always order it online, usually the same price. And hell, at the cost of a gallon of gas it isnt worth driving around looking anymore.

yah thats very true...if i cant find it by calling the convient, in the way places, then maybe i will just order it online:mbiggrin:

[nightrider2002]

You can get amsoil extended life 5w30 at carquest for like 5.50 a quart. They also have the 10w30 as well. I just did an oil change using the 5w30 and I'm happy with it so far. This is what kind they carry near me.

http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/xlf.aspx

[Mighty_Mouse]

its called a question ass...im asking doug a question about oil because im trying to understand his logic for the oil weight, if i were just going to make a decision without input id just put 5w30 in and be done, but if theres logic behind it, which he posted, then im going with it...
5w40 in a stock K20A3 in Philly is moronic. Trying to keep all 160 of your horses under control? LOL

[RedSiBaron]

5w40 in a stock K20A3 in Philly is moronic. Trying to keep all 160 of your horses under control? LOL

your an idiot

[Soprano21]

^^^^^^^^yea that

[thisisagame24]

your an idiot

id agree with that.....i dont know what make him think he knows all about engine oil..:whistle:

[Soprano21]

id agree with that.....i dont know what make him think he knows all about engine oil..:whistle:

dude thers always ppl. out ready to jump down someones throat:director:i think he needs to learn a little more about cars before he goes off makin himself sounding like an ass

[thisisagame24]

5w40 in a stock K20A3 in Philly is moronic. Trying to keep all 160 of your horses under control? LOL

a smart think to do would be to post up some proof of why your statement is true. instead of making assinine comments like that:crazy:

[thisisagame24]

dude thers always ppl. out ready to jump down someones throat:director:i think he needs to learn a little more about cars before he goes off makin himself sounding like an ass

i agree....but some one has to get back at asshats like that....if he is gunna bash him then post of some proof that what he thinks is true....gotta love e-thugs haha

[Soprano21]

i agree....but some one has to get back at asshats like that....if he is gunna bash him then post of some proof that what he thinks is true....gotta love e-thugs haha

:juggle:LOL

[thisisagame24]

:juggle:LOL

:painkiller:

[beechstreet]

have you guys ever read any of Mighty_Mouse's posts from before the crash? he knows oil better than most of you combined

[thisisagame24]

have you guys ever read any of Mighty_Mouse's posts from before the crash? he knows oil better than most of you combined

no one is doubting his knowledge....but if he does know so much why not post up some info to back up what he says instead of just bashing some one who was asking an honest question to further his personal knowledge?

[Soprano21]

have you guys ever read any of Mighty_Mouse's posts from before the crash? he knows oil better than most of you combined

yea bro i mean if hes a wiz theres no need for him to be a DICK.............. instead he should be a little more helpful and not bash on other ppl.

[RedSiBaron]

have you guys ever read any of Mighty_Mouse's posts from before the crash? he knows oil better than most of you combined


no one is doubting his knowledge....but if he does know so much why not post up some info to back up what he says instead of just bashing some one who was asking an honest question to further his personal knowledge?


yea bro i mean if hes a wiz theres no need for him to be a DICK.............. instead he should be a little more helpful and not bash on other ppl.

thankyou man, im just pissed that i got attacked for asking a question, ive always been told that in hot weather conditions that a heavier weight oil was a good idea (i should add im in philly right now, i live in ohio and will be there in summer when its 90-100 degrees most of hte summer with 80%+ humidity) regardless of engine modifications

plus it seemed to me that doug was saying that 5w40 would be ok for me to run during the summer, so if thats wrong id appreciate some information why instead of just being called...what was it, moronic???

[beechstreet]

no one is doubting his knowledge....but if he does know so much why not post up some info to back up what he says instead of just bashing some one who was asking an honest question to further his personal knowledge?

mmm, true true

[mario543k20]

i agree....but some one has to get back at asshats like that....if he is gunna bash him then post of some proof that what he thinks is true....gotta love e-thugs haha

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6510/ethugff7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6510/ethugff7.1c93d81a9b.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=389&i=ethugff7.jpg)

[Soprano21]

http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6510/ethugff7.jpg (http://imageshack.us)
http://img389.imageshack.us/img389/6510/ethugff7.1c93d81a9b.jpg (http://g.imageshack.us/g.php?h=389&i=ethugff7.jpg)

:lol:

[Mighty_Mouse]

your an idiot

haha. Spellcheck owns you.

Noobs like yourself should educate themselves before blindly following advice about running 5w40 year round, thinking RP is "da bomb yo", not running 0w weights unless they live above the arctic cirlce, etc.

[talonXracer]

I would NOT use a "0" weight oil unless you see sub zero weather for extended periods with the Kseries engine, if you drive any harder than granny would.

[thisisagame24]

haha. Spellcheck owns you.

Noobs like yourself should educate themselves before blindly following advice about running 5w40 year round, thinking RP is "da bomb yo", not running 0w weights unless they live above the arctic cirlce, etc.

if you actually read his post he said the 5w40 was only for the summer time, and also asked why he was recomending it over the others

[RedSiBaron]

haha. Spellcheck owns you.

Noobs like yourself should educate themselves before blindly following advice about running 5w40 year round, thinking RP is "da bomb yo", not running 0w weights unless they live above the arctic cirlce, etc.

wow......relax......never once took advice saying i was going to run 5w40 year round, i merely asked a question about it trying to understand what doug was talking about...I WAS educating myself...i never said "RP IS DA BOMB YO" i run it because its better than god damn mobil 1 and im trying to decide if running amsoil or redline would be a better choice...get off your high horse, this is really immature...you need to try reading...

[v1c10us]

redline is considered to be the absolute best oil for high temperatures, but I honestly believe it is overkill.
I use shell rotella and its amazing, its for tractors, but it meets all the specifications of car motor oil, its tough stuff and you buy a pint of molybdenum powder and put a tsp in there every oil change and you'll have the best oil you could want.
Although I put a teaspoon of moly powder in all my oils, tranny or engine, regaurdless of brand.

[RedSiBaron]

redline is considered to be the absolute best oil for high temperatures, but I honestly believe it is overkill.
I use shell rotella and its amazing, its for tractors, but it meets all the specifications of car motor oil, its tough stuff and you buy a pint of molybdenum powder and put a tsp in there every oil change and you'll have the best oil you could want.
Although I put a teaspoon of moly powder in all my oils, tranny or engine, regaurdless of brand.

yah i figure its overkill, but it all comes down to what my father wants to run in his 07 tundra...we decided that wed split the cost of 3 cases of either 5w30 amsoil or redline...he has a soft spot for redline cuz thats what he ran in his formula ford when no one east of the rockies knew what it was...i know its for race engines mostly which turn high rpms for long periods of time (which is why ill run it in the race engines) but hell be doing lots of towing of the boat this summer in his tundra, so maybe that counts as high temp...i dont know...like i said before, im just trying to ask some questions and make a decision what im going to do...

[Oxygen]

talon, you said you were changing your oil filter. Which filter did you go with out of curiosity?

[talonXracer]

I am useing the Mobil1 M110

[Oxygen]

I am useing the Mobil1 M110

Oh okay - I misread what you wrote. The Mobil1 filter is good stuff in your opinion?

[FCobra94]

Noobs like yourself should educate themselves before blindly following advice about running 5w40 year round, thinking RP is "da bomb yo", not running 0w weights unless they live above the arctic cirlce, etc.
Agreed.

This dude has great oil knowledge, but I can't blame him for not wanting to waste his breath preaching to the numb skulls on this forum.

If you want to learn about oil, don't trust someone on here because they've said that the oil they run "feels great in the motor." 3 quarts of oil being burned in less than ~5K miles? Need new rings much? Your problem isn't the oil you're running, it's the motor you're putting it in lol band-aid

Anyway, for anyone that is genuinely interested, go to this forum and try learning some things for yourself:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

For me, 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum along with the Honda S2k filter (or Wix equivelant) has done well at 8K OCI's. The motor does not burn one drop of oil in that time either and it's a fairly cheap oil/filter combo to get a hold of (~$26 total cost for an oil change). But don't take my word for it, let all the people with positive UOA results do the talking. JMHO.

[RedSiBaron]

Agreed.

This dude has great oil knowledge, but I can't blame him for not wanting to waste his breath preaching to the numb skulls on this forum.

If you want to learn about oil, don't trust someone on here because they've said that the oil they run "feels great in the motor." 3 quarts of oil being burned in less than ~5K miles? Need new rings much? Your problem isn't the oil you're running, it's the motor you're putting it in lol band-aid

Anyway, for anyone that is genuinely interested, go to this forum and try learning some things for yourself:

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php

For me, 5w-30 Pennzoil Platinum along with the Honda S2k filter (or Wix equivelant) has done well at 8K OCI's. The motor does not burn one drop of oil in that time either and it's a fairly cheap oil/filter combo to get a hold of (~$26 total cost for an oil change). But don't take my word for it, let all the people with positive UOA results do the talking. JMHO.

wow yet another person who doesnt read...talonxracer isnt going off of how it feels hes getting the oil tested...i dont understand why people are still being attacked in this thread, this is downright rediculous...all anyone ever did was ask questions and people have to turn into dicks and attack not only myself but talon...why cant you just be helpful instead of abrasive...no reason to attack people just cuz you see things differently...

[FCobra94]

I don't see anything differently; except for the fact that Amsoil and/or 5w-40 is probably overkill for most applications. Other than that, it's good oil.

If you aren't road racing and you're not boosting your daily driver, don't waste your money.

I posted a link where you can find out anything/everything you'e ever wanted to know about oil. I don't bash people/products/opinions, just trying to expand the limitations that some people around here unnecessarilly place on themselves in their never ending pursuit of needing to have "the best" :playball:

Of course his UOA is going to come back looking good. He's changing out an oil that could easilly go twice the OCI being used. I can understand him wanting to get a check on things before stretching it out any longer, but if you plan on dumping good oil before ~8K or even 10K miles, no matter what reputable synthetic you plan on running, there are better ways to spend your money.

[FCobra94]

I would NOT use a "0" weight oil unless you see sub zero weather for extended periods with the Kseries engine, if you drive any harder than granny would.
Why not?

People are getting up Mighty's @$$ for not explaining himself, why not try expanding on that tid bit of knowledge for us :pop2:

[RedSiBaron]

I don't see anything differently; except for the fact that Amsoil and/or 5w-40 is probably overkill for most applications. Other than that, it's good oil.

If you aren't road racing and you're not boosting your daily driver, don't waste your money.

I posted a link where you can find out anything/everything you'e ever wanted to know about oil. I don't bash people/products/opinions, just trying to expand the limitations that some people around here unnecessarilly place on themselves in their never ending pursuit of needing to have "the best" :playball:

Of course his UOA is going to come back looking good. He's changing out an oil that could easilly go twice the OCI being used. I can understand him wanting to get a check on things before stretching it out any longer, but if you plan on dumping good oil before ~8K or even 10K miles, no matter what reputable synthetic you plan on running, there are better ways to spend your money.

ive been meaning to cruise over to bobistheoilguy.com for awhile now, used to head over there before i owned the ep, but my father was overthere the other day and when i called him he was talking about how much they liked the pennzoil and redline...im still happy with RP cuz i dont burn much of it and i get good gas mileage...still not sure whether or not to go with redline though, the price id pay per quart is less than on RP, and i sure as hell trust redline a lot more...the reason i was asking about the 5w40 is that i was looking for talon's logic behind running in, since ive always just stuck to 5w30 in the ep, but in the hot weather in ohio i always ran 10w40 in my old civic due to the hot weather months...soooo wasnt sure if some of the same logic might apply to the ep...:noidea:

[FCobra94]

Meh, IMO if you aren't burning off what you are using now, there's no reason to change to something else. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" type of deal. I also doubt that Ohio "heat" is anywhere near as severe as S. Texas, etc. Then, it might make sense.

I'm sure that we can all agree on AT LEAST stepping up to a 30 weight oil given all the cam pitting problems that people have experienced etc., but even then not all 30 weight oils carry the same thickness. As long as you get a quality oil and stick to appropriate OCI's, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing that I would watch for with RP, especially in the 5w-30 flavor is that it has shown to shear quite badly when used for more than ~5K miles, which is terrible IMO. I also wouldn't touch RL unless you're turboed or towing stuff either. No need to run an oil that protects against extreme heat when you aren't anywhere close to utilizing it's capabilities....especially when you could just drive down to Walmart and purchase something just as capable of satisfying your needs for half the price.

[talonXracer]

Why not?

People are getting up Mighty's @$$ for not explaining himself, why not try expanding on that tid bit of knowledge for us :pop2:

If you use a zero weight oil, and it is warm/hot outside, a zero weight oil will not provide the required protection during starting. I have seen many an engine go thru the shop that were victims of insufficient oil weights.

I dont care that the oil tests show that you can go 10K miles, I will not push it like some cheapskate's that I know(and who's engines I have to rebuild). Sure it may be fine, but why take the chance??? All an extended OCI does is breeds a cycle of not even checking the oil, it lasts for over 12K miles so it should be good...right?

[RedSiBaron]

Meh, IMO if you aren't burning off what you are using now, there's no reason to change to something else. "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" type of deal. I also doubt that Ohio "heat" is anywhere near as severe as S. Texas, etc. Then, it might make sense.

I'm sure that we can all agree on AT LEAST stepping up to a 30 weight oil given all the cam pitting problems that people have experienced etc., but even then not all 30 weight oils carry the same thickness. As long as you get a quality oil and stick to appropriate OCI's, I wouldn't worry about it. The only thing that I would watch for with RP, especially in the 5w-30 flavor is that it has shown to shear quite badly when used for more than ~5K miles, which is terrible IMO. I also wouldn't touch RL unless you're turboed or towing stuff either. No need to run an oil that protects against extreme heat when you aren't anywhere close to utilizing it's capabilities....especially when you could just drive down to Walmart and purchase something just as capable of satisfying your needs for half the price.

definitely not texas heat, but it was hot enough to be hard on my old civic, and i noticed things were better with the heavy weight, though i never did it in the ep cuz i never noticed any difference between 100degree heat and 80 degree heat on the engine really...

as for the RP i change it out around 3k anyway...i know its spensive but i can afford it and id rather just play it safe, i usually only need 1 oil change every 3 months anyway...

and the reasoning behind the redline was that my father needs 5w30 for his tundra and hes going to be towing a 26 foot sailboat down to kentucky a lot this summer and fall, and thats up and down mountain roads...and we decided that we would just split 3 cases of whatever oil we decide on...redline is going to be good for his truck, and even though i wont NEED all that protection, it wont hurt anything if i run it right? plus the price he gets on redline i believe is like $5.xx a quart...so itll be cheaper than whatever full synthetic i go to the store and buy...i mean would you say thats valid logic???

cuz i totally see where you are coming from and agree...


If you use a zero weight oil, and it is warm/hot outside, a zero weight oil will not provide the required protection during starting. I have seen many an engine go thru the shop that were victims of insufficient oil weights.

I dont care that the oil tests show that you can go 10K miles, I will not push it like some cheapskate's that I know(and who's engines I have to rebuild). Sure it may be fine, but why take the chance??? All an extended OCI does is breeds a cycle of not even checking the oil, it lasts for over 12K miles so it should be good...right?

thats the logic i was always taught...

plus i check my oil 2 to 3 times a week...why not

better safe than sorry is my rule of thumb with cars...preventative maintenance not repair..

[HondaFreak]

....If you aren't road racing and you're not boosting your daily driver, don't waste your money......

+ eleventybillion

All the bickering makes this place less attractive that a one-legged crack whore with herpes.

Christian

[talonXracer]

Almost any city traffic commuting or cold weather etc places the EP3 into Honda's heavy duty useage catagory, a heavy right foot places it there as well. So YES a better oil is an excellent choice.

This is a performance orientated site so yes we will recommend a different oil than what comes stock.

Besides, the engine lifespan has almost NOTHING to do with the factory recommendations, the thin oils are used to sidestep tariffs and fines for Honda's corporate/fleet MPG and emissions ONLY.

[RedSiBaron]

+ eleventybillion

All the bickering makes this place less attractive that a one-legged crack whore with herpes.

Christian

actually what i see going on with cobra is that we are having a more intelligent DISCUSSION, so i wouldnt really call it bickering, there havnt been any real angry dissagreements with him...besides this is a forum, its a place to discuss ideas and different viewpoints...




Almost any city traffic commuting or cold weather etc places the EP3 into Honda's heavy duty useage catagory, a heavy right foot places it there as well. So YES a better oil is an excellent choice.

This is a performance orientated site so yes we will recommend a different oil than what comes stock.

Besides, the engine lifespan has almost NOTHING to do with the factory recommendations, the thin oils are used to sidestep tariffs and fines for Honda's corporate/fleet MPG and emissions ONLY.



that makes sense to me...

...whats so bad about people wanting to run the best oil in their car though, even if it exceeds their needs for oil...i mean if 1 oil is going to garuntee protection for someones engine in any forseable condition, isnt that better than an oil that will work when the car is daily driven in average conditions...i mean wtf...we are talking pennies here people...on a daily driver i put about 3k on the car every 3 months...thats like what $7 per quart for mobil 1, or 7.30 for rp...i dont know what you pay for your amsoil talon, but it cant be more than 8 bucks a quart right...i mean i buy 5 quarts, OMG!!! So expensive adding 5 bucks to an oil change, theres no way i can possibly afford that...oh i know, i can afford it by not buying fast food once that month, there money saved...or for smokers, buying 1 less pack of smokes that month...i mean come on this is silly...for me i would spend like 20 to 40 bucks extra a YEAR than buying any regular brand full synthetic...the added mpg the GOOD oils give me pays for that alone...arguing over price on an oil is silly...we own eps here people, we didnt pay dirt for these cars, we have incomes...

even in an exaggerated condition...lets say someone is changing their oil twice a month right!! and im sure some people do...thats $120 extra a year...a year...come on, who cant afford that...if you are putting that many miles on your car in a year then id think youd want the best performing oil...


im not trying to fight with anyone at all here, im just tired of hearing about the cost difference of oil changes...if you want to take care of your car, i dont see how its a bad thing to play it safe for 20 to 120 bucks MORE a year...

[FCobra94]

plus the price he gets on redline i believe is like $5.xx a quart
Sounds good to me. Seems like a win-win situation all the way around :thumb:


If you use a zero weight oil, and it is warm/hot outside, a zero weight oil will not provide the required protection during starting. I have seen many an engine go thru the shop that were victims of insufficient oil weights.
So you're telling me that a zero weight oil, which is required to have a lower cold-pour rate, suddenly falls on it's face and cokes up if it happens to get warm outside? LoLz! That doesn't make any sense. You do understand how multigrade oils work, right? The lower the number, the better it will flow when starting a cold engine. Just because it's a numerically small number doesn't make it a "thin" oil in general. Even German Castrol 0w-30 had the characteristics of a 40 weight when warmed up, but that doesn't mean that people were puking out pistons on startup just because of that little zero on the front of the oil jug. I'd rather have a "quicker flowing" oil on startup, when most engine wear occurs anyway, over one that is unneccessarilly thick at lower temperatures, whether it's summer time or not. Just because it flows well when it's cold doesn't mean that it's any less viscous of an oil during startup in a warmer climate.

I do beleive that many people have gone through the shop as victims of insufficient oil in general and poor maintanance (sludge, lack of lubrication, etc.); weight not being a major factor though, unless you count an oil that has sheared so badly it no longer resembles the characteristics of a virgin sample of the oil in question. If that were the case, every nut on this board beating on their car with the factory recommended fill of 5w-20 would have returned to Honda with an air-conditioned block and a box full of broken parts by now.

I agree with you on the severe duty usage category though, especially for most of the people on this site. But you have to remember that Honda is only factoring in basic dino oil within that equation; all those numbers go out the window when adding synthetics into the mix. That's where UOA's come in and it's hard to argue those facts, whether you get poor results after only 5K miles of light use or see fantastics results after 25K miles of abuse. It all relys on way too many variables to be the same from person-to-person. Good discussion thus far though guys! :thumb:

[talonXracer]

Never said anything about coking up,,just that at low rpm's most thin ass oil's will not produce enough oil pressure during engine starting. This is very evident when I tear down an engine and the bearings show scuff marks and the engine is basically clean as a whistle.

I have also verified this with a A3 engine and a oil gauge. I tried the "miracle" german 0w30 and had severe oil pressure issues at engine start in hot weather, this condition only lasts about 4-5 seconds when the engine immediately starts which is all it takes to accelerate the wear. This is directly contributable to the oil, because as soon as the oil is swapped out for a more conventional weight oil there was no lack of pressure at start-up.

As you said all engines will react differently, but why push the oil choice to the point where possible damage can occur? I would rather err on the side of caution with an expensive engine.

[FCobra94]

Hmm, those are interesting findings that I would not expect from a lower weight oil, especially during cold-starts.

Thanks for sharing as it is definitely something worth looking into further...