New problems

[dashehonda]

My check engine light came on the other day, and it went away. I figured that the motor was just getting settled or something. It came back yesterday, so i went to autozone this morning to see what it is, and it read that the motor was running too lean. It said bank 1 fuel trim needed to be fixed. Probable causes were oxygen sensors, injectors or fuel regulator. Would my hondata box mod do anything? I stripped it out fully, and im missing the front lower hose, so i am getting a wrong ratio of air getting pulled in. Also i have a reflash, that has been tuned up to a CAI, running the stock box could have anything to do with? My motor is really really hot after a few min. of driving, so i know its serious. What else could it be??? Help!!!!!!!

[talonXracer]

What was the code#, you can not go by the definitions provided from the generic universal readers like Actron, MAC, and Snap-on. You need the actual PXXXX and then look it up in the HONDA OBDII/EP3 manual.


I would look at a coolant issue

[dashehonda]

There was no code actually. I wondered about that, cause the light comes and goes. The car doesnt drive very funny, its just the valve cover gets very very hot. You cant touch it more than 2 seconds, is that normal, i mean thats including a couple hard accels and revving it up to like 5k. Thing is the guy i had do the motor also replaced the fuel pump too, he said it was kinda shitty. What could it be, i hardly think its the sensors, dont they make the car drive like shit? It runs fine for the most part.The gas mileage is still like 30mpg's. I just dumped like 2500 in motor and labor, and now this BS, Im lost Talon :mangel:

Edit: I just noticed you said it may be a coolant issue. Cause i just put back in my front ESMM, and i tried it the way where you unbolt the radiator supports and slide it up since the bolts that hold on the front subframe had their heads stripped from the dealer(bastards) But i un hooked the top Hose just to gt the extra clearance to get the mount up through, and i think i lost a lot of coolant, I didn think it was that much, but now that i think of it it may be. cause now my car doesnt heat up, or when it does it takes for ever, that would cause the extremely hot engine right? I bought some coolant today, but i couldnt put it in after driving it, im gonna put it in now though since it sat.

[AUTiger]

sorry to hear about more problems, hopefully just some coolant will fix your overheating.

[weltall]

doug how in the hell would a coolant issue cause a lean code

i know you probably have some crazy reasonable explaination as to why but i would have never thought that coolant would be the cause

unless from running hot the o2 sensor was thrown off

i always thought a lean code was from either short term or long term trim maxing out without correcting the lean condition during closed loop operation


id just like to know for future reference

[weltall]

also always add coolant with the engine running

it allows the thermostat to open allowing the coolant to flow into the engine

[dashehonda]

Yeah i just added some, then ran it around the block a few times. The valve cover is still kinda hot, but it ran a bit faster it seems, i have no idea why low coolant would make a car lean out, but im sure the extra heat through the exhaust throws something off for sure like Weltall said

[dashehonda]

also always add coolant with the engine running

it allows the thermostat to open allowing the coolant to flow into the engine

But wont it shoot coolant everywhere, with our cars we dont add anythng to the bottle on the side since it isnt an expansion tank, its a recovery tank right? I added enough that seemed like th amount that came out, which was quite a bit

[talonXracer]

The valve cover is attached to an engine that has explosions going on inside, of course it will be hot!


I said to check the coolant for the running warm issue. But after further posts by the TS, it is clear that there is no coolant issue. If the coolant system is hot then add the coolant to the overflow bottle, it will be drawn back in as the coolant in the engine cools. If you already opened the system then jack up the front slightly and bleed the coolant system as normal. The engine MUST be running to bleed the coolant system.

WHEN EVER the CEL light is illuminated, there will be a code stored, if they pulled the code and said it was for a lean condition, then they had to have a number, no if ands or buts!

[The new Paul03]

make sure when you add coolent the car is cold! Open the radiator cap then start the car until it warms up never open the cap when it is hot! When you start the car turn the heater on high. You will be able to see the coolent through the cap it will boil over then the thermostat will open, and the coolent will drop. Make sure it drops then add more coolent and cap it off.

[dashehonda]

The valve cover is attached to an engine that has explosions going on inside, of course it will be hot!


I said to check the coolant for the running warm issue. But after further posts by the TS, it is clear that there is no coolant issue. If the coolant system is hot then add the coolant to the overflow bottle, it will be drawn back in as the coolant in the engine cools. If you already opened the system then jack up the front slightly and bleed the coolant system as normal. The engine MUST be running to bleed the coolant system.

WHEN EVER the CEL light is illuminated, there will be a code stored, if they pulled the code and said it was for a lean condition, then they had to have a number, no if ands or buts!

Nope, never gave a number, i asked the guy he said "i dont know" So im guessing it may have been something like a glitch maybe, but llike i said, it drives better now with more coolant

But i was saying i lost alot when i did the front mount the way i did it.