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cerebrous
05-26-2008, 09:51 PM
Sorry guys have to ask since all the info is gone.

the ITR Brembo swap on our Ep does it require spacers?

I know I have to get ITR front sway and 17 but how about spacers for the offset?

cerebrous
05-27-2008, 07:36 AM
Found out
350 Z Sport Brembo Pads work for the fronts / Type S pads for the rear.

Continuing the search

cerebrous
05-27-2008, 07:37 AM
Found out

60mm Offset needed for Rim @ 17 inch diameter min

RedSiBaron
05-27-2008, 07:57 AM
Found out

60mm Offset needed for Rim @ 17 inch diameter min

i was under the impression that the ITR wheels were like a 35mm offset or something...is the 60mm just to keep the wheel inside the wheel well?

spartan
06-01-2010, 12:52 PM
I've been trying to do this project for so long!
I have a set of ITR wheels + the Brembo set up just sitting in my basement.
I'm missing A arms, axles, sway(f), tie rod ends, and front + rear suspension.
but i did come to a conclusion with using Type S parts. Cuz in Europe the ITR runs the K20A2, which means it uses the same axles and sway bar as our Type S so you can use those parts & whatever else to make this set up work, someone on Honda-tech did it and it worked. Also there's some kind of valve (forgot the name) that you don't need to change cuz the ITR shares the same one as the EP3. ppv valve? proportioning valve? something like that.
I am almost ready to fuck this project an move on. cuz once you have the set up, where do you buy rotors from? Ain't gonna be cheap.

mage182
06-02-2010, 05:46 AM
DBA sells the rotors. They have multiple versions for different applications. They are a bit pricey but not ridiculous.

spartan
06-02-2010, 06:23 PM
You don't think almost $500 for 2 front rotors isn't ridiculous?
Oh and the Valve thing i was looking for was called PCV valve.
EP3 & ITR have the same and dont need to be changed.

mage182
06-03-2010, 05:39 AM
I've had my EP3 for 4 years now. I replaced the front rotors and pads when I got it and have only put one pair of pads on since then. So the DBA rotors should last me quite a bit of time. Plus if you consider what I paid for everything, (DC5R full suspension swap with wheels - $2400, powdercoat wheels - $350, new tires - $400, misc suspension maintenance parts for install since I'm at 100k - $400) another ~$400 bucks for rotors is just a drop in the bucket.

If you compare the prices from DBA to Honda, Mugen, or projectmu solutions, it becomes clear that it's the lowest price.

spartan
06-03-2010, 03:42 PM
very good point.
You've inspired me to complete this project.
Can you resurface the DBA rotors?
What suspension did you go with, is this your DD, where did you get the ITR tie rod ends, and did you use any Type S parts?

lilflx
06-03-2010, 10:58 PM
i did the conversion. as for the wheels i went with 17x7.5 +48 offset 215/45/17 tires, it sits somehow quite flush with oem alignment spec. as for the rotors i went with project mu 2 piece rotor for dc5r. you dont need itr tie-rod ends. if you decide to install dc5 suspension then you need a rsx type-s tie-rod end. as for the axle, some people have tried to use the oem ep3 axle it should be a tad short but it works, so far i didnt ear about the axle popping out so you decide LOL.

mage182
06-04-2010, 05:41 AM
very good point.
You've inspired me to complete this project.
Can you resurface the DBA rotors?
What suspension did you go with, is this your DD, where did you get the ITR tie rod ends, and did you use any Type S parts?

I'm not sure if you can resurface the DBA rotors. I still have my OEM set which is fine but has a slight lip around the outer edge which will prevent me from pulling the pads without taking the whole caliper off. I have to get a micrometer and measure the thickness. I'm hoping there is still enough meat to get those resurfaced.

When my swap arrived from Japan I found that the springs and dampers were not included. After doing some reading and taking the advice of another ephatch.com member ("Why would you ever put a USED suspension on your car?"), I decided to go with the EP3 HFP suspension. The specs aren't exactly the same as the DC5R, but for ~$600 and being much easier to source I figure it's a good enough alternative.

Yes this is my DD. It's an '02 so it will be an upgrade to 5 lug and when I bought the car it had ground control adjustable setup on stock dampers which makes for an AWFUL ride.

Since I'm using HFP suspension I bought EP3 tie rod ends (Moog) and new Type-S sway bar endlinks (Moog) all around. I bought OEM sway bar bushings to match the diameters of the new DC5R sway bars. Brake lines, ABS lines, and e-brake cables from the EP3 should be fine. And I'm replacing the clutch and flywheel just because it will all be apart and I just passed the 100k mark.


i did the conversion. as for the wheels i went with 17x7.5 +48 offset 215/45/17 tires, it sits somehow quite flush with oem alignment spec. as for the rotors i went with project mu 2 piece rotor for dc5r. you dont need itr tie-rod ends. if you decide to install dc5 suspension then you need a rsx type-s tie-rod end. as for the axle, some people have tried to use the oem ep3 axle it should be a tad short but it works, so far i didnt ear about the axle popping out so you decide LOL.

Do you think I'll have any problem with DC5R wheels with stock tire size (I believe 215/45/17) and the HFP suspension? It only lowers it around .75 so I figured between that and the offset it shouldn't be a problem.

Did you run into any other problems during your install with things not fitting or lining up?

spartan
06-05-2010, 12:54 PM
i was under the impression you need the ITR tie rod ends as well as the sway bar for the wider stance. I thought that was the whole point of the conversion, the Brembo brakes are just a bonus.
This is getting confusing again.

So i can use my ep3 axles?
I think ill buy Type S just to be safe.

but the sway an tie rod ends still confuse me
also the suspension.
i can use any ep3 or dc5 shocks an springs/coilover setup?

mage182
06-07-2010, 06:07 AM
Since this is a McPherson setup the strut is separate from the knuckle. Since I am using EP3 HFP struts then I would use EP3 tie rod ends.

The sway bar from the DC5R is needed. I'm not sure if it is a larger diameter (haven't compared) but it's definitely a little wider than the EP3. This may go along with different mounting points on the LCAs which changes the geometry rather than bar diameter.

You can use EP3 axles. People have said they use them with no problems. I don't like to leave the door open for problems. So I got a set of DC5R axles.

Rockauto says that the sway bar endlinks are the same on 02-05 EP3 and 02-06 RSX. I'm not sure if that's 100% accurate but I bought a new set just on principle. Moog makes the strongest and highest quality parts I've seen. So I only buy their parts.

I still have some unanswered questions about this whole swap. I'm not sure if I'll have rubbing with the 17s and the HFP suspension. I have read that the ABS sensors may be different. I'm just going to take a few days off from work and take the whole thing nice and slow once my clutch comes in.

spartan
06-07-2010, 12:00 PM
let me know how that turns out.
i wish there was a DIY thread on this project.

spartan
06-15-2010, 12:50 PM
ok check it out.
last night i got my REAR ITR brakes an equipped Stop-Tech stainless steal brake lines an Progress/SPC rear camber kit. Now those parts were made for my ep3 an they fit perfect. I also installed Skunk2 Lower control arms which was made for 02+ Integra, but one of the bolts was too long an the trailing arm stopped it from screwing in any further. WHY THE FUCK MAKE A PRODUCT FOR A SPECIFIC CAR AN NOT EVEN HAVE IT FIT!?
Anyways its only like 1/4 inch so I'm just gonna use a washer.
I also discovered that my Tokico ep shocks don't fit with the ITR conversion. There's a good 1/2 inch gap where it's suppose to bolt up. So I'm guessing Type S shocks/struts should be good. And I just bought brand new springs for my ep.
Now does anyone know if Type S an EP3 springs are compatible?
And does this conversion require the brake master cylinder from the ITR??

spartan
06-15-2010, 01:18 PM
ITR Wheel Specifications:

* Size.....17 x 7JJ
* Offset.....+60
* Lug Pattern.....5H x 114.3
* Color.....Championship White

mage182
06-15-2010, 01:48 PM
ok check it out.
last night i got my REAR ITR brakes an equipped Stop-Tech stainless steal brake lines an Progress/SPC rear camber kit. Now those parts were made for my ep3 an they fit perfect. I also installed Skunk2 Lower control arms which was made for 02+ Integra, but one of the bolts was too long an the trailing arm stopped it from screwing in any further. WHY THE FUCK MAKE A PRODUCT FOR A SPECIFIC CAR AN NOT EVEN HAVE IT FIT!?
Anyways its only like 1/4 inch so I'm just gonna use a washer.
I also discovered that my Tokico ep shocks don't fit with the ITR conversion. There's a good 1/2 inch gap where it's suppose to bolt up. So I'm guessing Type S shocks/struts should be good. And I just bought brand new springs for my ep.
Now does anyone know if Type S an EP3 springs are compatible?
And does this conversion require the brake master cylinder from the ITR??

I'll get my ITR Knuckles and HFP setup together this weekend and see if everything bolts up. I recall a member on a page somewhere saying that there was a gap which would concur with you. They said they used some washers to fill the gap I think.

I've checked some part numbers and the DC5R prop valve is the same as the 03-05 EP. I have an 02 so I might have to switch out eventually. I think all the MCs are 15/16 tho.

spartan
06-15-2010, 08:48 PM
I'll get my ITR Knuckles and HFP setup together this weekend and see if everything bolts up. I recall a member on a page somewhere saying that there was a gap which would concur with you. They said they used some washers to fill the gap I think.

I've checked some part numbers and the DC5R prop valve is the same as the 03-05 EP. I have an 02 so I might have to switch out eventually. I think all the MCs are 15/16 tho.

Well i don't think washers would be safe especially with that big of a gap. At the begaining of this thread it says the Rear ITR brakes are from a type S. so that means the shock is type S. I found on ebay; stock ITR shocks an springs, used but in damn good condition for $319.99 + 75.99 shipping. little pricy but still type R :).
What do you mean MC's are 15/16?
Oh an does anyone know if my new springs will fit with Type S shock!??

mage182
06-16-2010, 05:49 AM
Well i don't think washers would be safe especially with that big of a gap. At the begaining of this thread it says the Rear ITR brakes are from a type S. so that means the shock is type S. I found on ebay; stock ITR shocks an springs, used but in damn good condition for $319.99 + 75.99 shipping. little pricy but still type R :).
What do you mean MC's are 15/16?
Oh an does anyone know if my new springs will fit with Type S shock!??

I saw those as well on ebay. If the HFP stuff doesn't fit I guess I'll sell that and buy the used ITR stuff. The HFP stuff is still in the box so I should be able to come out a little bit ahead with money.

Brake MCs from what I read are the same (15/16") for EP, RSX, and ITR.

Correction:

EP3 BMCs (Brake Master Cylinder) are 7/8"
RSX Base BMCs are 7/8"
RSX Type-S BMCs are 15/16"
ITR BMC won't fit on LHD cars but is also 15/16" so the RSX Type-S BMC will be fine

Proportioning valve part number for ITR is:

46210-S5A-812

This is the same part number as:

46210-S5A-812 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING 03 - 06 ACCORD 60.03 45.03
46210-S5A-812 VALVE ASSY., PROPORTIONING 03 - 05 CIVIC 60.03 45.03

And according to this post:

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=323000&page=2


The RSX-S prop valve is the same as the ITR. However, when I looked up the RSX-S part the number is 46210-S5A-822. I'm not sure what that one digit difference means.

In short, if you're doing the Brembo swap, you should have RSX-S BMC, Brake Booster, and Proportioning valve to have the system work optimally.

spartan
06-16-2010, 03:04 PM
Awesome! great post!
Where can i look for Honda Japan parts?

spartan
06-16-2010, 08:25 PM
shit
i just noticed the ABS cable was cut and a wheel stud fell out both on the same side.
this was off too a good start and now, shit.

mage182
06-17-2010, 06:01 AM
I have no sources to parts directly from Japan. I usually just try to find a comparable part available on the US market and get that.

Shouldn't the ABS sensors be the same? I did a visual comparison because my ABS sensors and ebrake cables were cut on my swap and they looked the same.

I also tested the HFP rear shocks on the ITR rear trailing arms and the gap isn't that bad. One decent stainless steel washer on each side and a good job clocking and it should be fine.

Have you tried the front yet? Will the Honda shocks bolt up fine?

Wheel studs should be stock Honda. A quick trip to the dealer should remedy that.

spartan
06-17-2010, 02:48 PM
I have no sources to parts directly from Japan. I usually just try to find a comparable part available on the US market and get that.

Shouldn't the ABS sensors be the same? I did a visual comparison because my ABS sensors and ebrake cables were cut on my swap and they looked the same.

I also tested the HFP rear shocks on the ITR rear trailing arms and the gap isn't that bad. One decent stainless steel washer on each side and a good job clocking and it should be fine.

Have you tried the front yet? Will the Honda shocks bolt up fine?

Wheel studs should be stock Honda. A quick trip to the dealer should remedy that.

i havent tried the front, i lack the necessary parts, plus i gotta remove the dust shield that thing is all bent up.
the sensor is cut right where the clip is suppose to be. guess i can splice my stock one. i really don't wanna do that.
Washers seem unsafe, so im just gonna buy type S shocks. do you know if my ep progress springs would fit on type s shocks?

mage182
06-17-2010, 06:02 PM
i havent tried the front, i lack the necessary parts, plus i gotta remove the dust shield that thing is all bent up.
the sensor is cut right where the clip is suppose to be. guess i can splice my stock one. i really don't wanna do that.
Washers seem unsafe, so im just gonna buy type S shocks. do you know if my ep progress springs would fit on type s shocks?

I'll try it out this weekend. If the fronts don't fit as well I'll have to sell the HFP stuff. Other than that it's just too much of a hassle to sell that and then buy the ITR stuff. A couple of stainless washers shouldn't cause any problems.

Are the ABS sensors different? Why not just use the sensors from the EP?

I would expect the springs to work. I can look around but none of the books I have list dimensions on the springs.

spartan
06-18-2010, 04:46 PM
yeah im sure the ABS is the same but i don't trust myself with the wires.
ill just make a new thread for my spring an shocks question.

spartan
06-20-2010, 12:33 PM
I'm confused.
Does the EP3 R an the DC5 R have the same front sway bar?
http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HONDA-CIVIC-EP3-INTEGRA-DC5-TYPE-R-S-SWAY-BAR-FRONT_W0QQitemZ300437863691QQcategoryZ42609QQcmdZV iewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26 itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3 D7679292264894798612

mage182
06-21-2010, 09:09 AM
I'm confused.
Does the EP3 R an the DC5 R have the same front sway bar?
http://cgi.ebay.com/OEM-HONDA-CIVIC-EP3-INTEGRA-DC5-TYPE-R-S-SWAY-BAR-FRONT_W0QQitemZ300437863691QQcategoryZ42609QQcmdZV iewItemQQ_trksidZp3286.m7QQ_trkparmsZalgo%3DLVI%26 itu%3DUCI%26otn%3D3%26po%3DLVI%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3 D7679292264894798612

The track isn't wider on the EP3-R. And it doesn't use ITR LCAs in the front. So I don't think it uses the ITR swaybar.

spartan
06-23-2010, 05:55 PM
have you ever heard of blackworks?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180477522453&viewitem=

spartan
06-27-2010, 02:43 PM
So i got brand new Progress springs an brand new Type S shocks.
Bolts up to the Brembo's perfect, no gap front or rear.
the only problem is it didn't come with the top part of the shock... i have no idea what its called exactly.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/2010-06-25160115.jpg

spartan
07-01-2010, 07:42 AM
what is the top part of the coil an spring called?
and can i use stock ones with this?

Passenger
07-01-2010, 08:15 AM
Damn spartan you are an ambitious one. Sub'd just to watch your homework.

spartan
07-01-2010, 04:46 PM
Damn spartan you are an ambitious one. Sub'd just to watch your homework.

Thanks I guess, not sure what you mean tho.

spartan
07-06-2010, 01:18 PM
...anyways. Can't someone thats already done this swap help me out?

vicx52o
07-09-2010, 02:45 PM
Top hat's. If that's from a DC5-S... I think you're going to need to run DC5-S tie rod end's. Did you get DC5-S spec progress springs or EP3 spec?

spartan
07-09-2010, 05:33 PM
Top hat's. If that's from a DC5-S... I think you're going to need to run DC5-S tie rod end's. Did you get DC5-S spec progress springs or EP3 spec?

dc5 s shocks
springs are for ep3, does that work?
u think i have to run the type s sway bar too?

spartan
07-13-2010, 03:17 PM
these are my brembo calipers the left one is missing what the right one has, not sure what its called.
does anyone know if that piece is important?
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/2010-07-09184630.jpg

johnkimble
07-13-2010, 03:55 PM
definitely type-s tie-rods and axles. ep3 top hat on that strut will probably work, it's worth a try. I can't imagine them being that different.

re: the missing piece, I think that's what keeps the pads in place. if it were me I'd wait on buying a type-s sway until I was positive that I needed it (running w/out a front sway isn't a big deal) -- ie once I was positive the ep3 one doesn't work

spartan
07-14-2010, 01:26 PM
definitely type-s tie-rods and axles. ep3 top hat on that strut will probably work, it's worth a try. I can't imagine them being that different.

re: the missing piece, I think that's what keeps the pads in place. if it were me I'd wait on buying a type-s sway until I was positive that I needed it (running w/out a front sway isn't a big deal) -- ie once I was positive the ep3 one doesn't work

Awesome thanks for the input!

spartan
08-03-2010, 03:52 PM
Hey guys almost done with buying the parts for this swap. Just need front ITR control arms ($225!) an maybe that front Type S sway bar.
I'll post pics when everything comes together.
I was wondering, What kind of brake fluid should i use?
My buddy suggested Motul Dot 3 or 4 RBF 600 Racing Brake Fluid.
Now i want it to be for my daily driver street friendly, but be able to handle a touge every once in a while.

mage182
08-04-2010, 06:28 AM
I believe you need the DC5R sway bar to work with the DC5R front lower control arms. The mounting points on the LCA are wider than the other RSX models.

spartan
08-04-2010, 05:46 PM
I believe you need the DC5R sway bar to work with the DC5R front lower control arms. The mounting points on the LCA are wider than the other RSX models.

that sounds about right. Well if my stock ep sway doesn't work, ill buy the itr sway.

spartan
08-06-2010, 06:49 PM
I was wondering, What kind of brake fluid should i use?
My buddy suggested Motul Dot 3 or 4 RBF 600 Racing Brake Fluid.
Now i want it to be for my daily driver street friendly, but be able to handle a touge every once in a while.

anybody?

mage182
08-09-2010, 06:53 AM
Honda brake fluid. Brake fluid is brake fluid unless you're driving in Sweden on the ice or in La Mans.

spartan
08-10-2010, 05:31 PM
Honda brake fluid. Brake fluid is brake fluid unless you're driving in Sweden on the ice or in La Mans.

LOL never know man, you just never know... But sometimes you do. thanks.

spartan
08-10-2010, 05:51 PM
I believe you need the DC5R sway bar to work with the DC5R front lower control arms. The mounting points on the LCA are wider than the other RSX models.

wait are you talking about the front or rear?

mage182
08-11-2010, 05:35 AM
wait are you talking about the front or rear?

Front.

spartan
08-11-2010, 09:01 AM
ok cool
hey dude i went to the my Honda dealership today to see if they'll install the Type S BMC/booster an they said it might be a liability issue.
I told the tech that it will swap in no problem just replace the parts to make it fit right. An in Europe an Japan they run the same size so there shouldn't
be an issue. There shouldn't be any problems right?
they tech said he'd call me an let me know if he'll do it or not.

mage182
08-12-2010, 06:00 AM
Why pay someone to do it? If you're going to put everything else on, bleed the whole system, then take it to them and have them bleed the whole system again? All it consists of is a few hardlines and bolts to hold it on. No big deal.

There are no liability problems. I think it's a DIY project.

spartan
08-12-2010, 07:39 AM
Why pay someone to do it? If you're going to put everything else on, bleed the whole system, then take it to them and have them bleed the whole system again? All it consists of is a few hardlines and bolts to hold it on. No big deal.

There are no liability problems. I think it's a DIY project.

ouch dude, you just burned me.
I've never done this before or my buddies, so i thought this would be easier.

mage182
08-13-2010, 05:52 AM
Nah you can do it. The only things holding it on are the pin from the brake pedal, a few bolts on the firewall, the hardlines attached and the cap with the wires attached to it. I would do it while you're doing the suspension, that way you can drain the entire brake system and start from scratch.

Go for it. If you run into problems just post up and we'll help you.

spartan
08-13-2010, 08:15 AM
Thanks dude.
I gotta do this whole swap in one day tho. I only get one day off a week an i don't have another car or other transport.
public transit couldn't take me where i work without having to walk a few miles. so its all or nothin
but on the plus side all i need are the front control arms an i can set a day for this project.

mage182
08-13-2010, 10:07 AM
I'm in the same boat. That's what has kept me from doing this even tho I've had the parts for a few months now. My fear of missing something or breaking something during the process is high would cause a lot of problems.

Not intending to make matters more complicated, but depending on how many miles are on your EP, are you replacing tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, clutch? I ordered all of those and will do them as part of the project. It will def extend the timeline by a good 6 hours tho.

spartan
08-13-2010, 08:34 PM
Not intending to make matters more complicated, but depending on how many miles are on your EP, are you replacing tie rod ends, sway bar endlinks, clutch? I ordered all of those and will do them as part of the project. It will def extend the timeline by a good 6 hours tho.

I got type S tie rod ends
stock endlinks
stock clutch.

spartan
08-23-2010, 12:02 PM
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/2010-07-09184630.jpg

Ran into a snag. The brass piece that you see on the right caliper is missing from the left. So i went to a Nissan dealer an ordered that part. I tried putting it on last night an it's too big, an the pins it came with are too long. Thus wrong part. Now idk if there's different generation Brembo calipers on the 350z, but these calipers might not be compatible with any of them. If not, where can i find this part?

spartan
08-27-2010, 05:49 PM
ok what i have so far, DC5 ITR Brembo brake conversion parts list:
brembo calipers
oem rotors 12inch
oem spindle
right oem ITR axel
left oem type s axel
R&L ITR front control arms
oem type s tie rod end R&L
oem front ITR sway w/ oem bushings
oem rsx type s brake master cylinder & booster
oem 05 ep3 proportioning valve
spc/progress front & rear camber kit
Stop-Tech front & rear ss braided brake lines
02-04 rsx type s front & rear shocks
02-05 ep3 Progress springs
05 ep3 top hats
complete rear brakes ITR/Type S W/
gold Skunk2 lower control arms
Skunk2 lower tie bar
And a set of 5 DC5 Integra Type R OEM wheels

AM I MISSING ANYTHING?
I JUST NEED THAT DAMN BRAKE RETAINER AN I THINK I CAN FINALLY GET THIS STARTED.
WHERE DO I FIND THAT BRAKE RETAINER!?!!?!?!?!??!?!?!?!?!??!?

spartan
09-01-2010, 12:05 AM
oh ok, I'm just invisible!

mage182
09-07-2010, 08:02 AM
I've been looking around for you but found nothing. My parts lists don't even list that as a separate part number available from the dealer. You may have to buy one from another car (Evo, G35, SRT, STi, 911, TRD) and modify it, or find someone who can make you something similar.

spartan
09-17-2010, 12:32 AM
I've been looking around for you but found nothing. My parts lists don't even list that as a separate part number available from the dealer. You may have to buy one from another car (Evo, G35, SRT, STi, 911, TRD) and modify it, or find someone who can make you something similar.

tried them all no luck.
Gotta try subaru again tho

Some one posted up a thread on honda tech about this for his rsx
he said his type s axel didn't work. everyone that replied said to get the type R axel.
What do you think dude?

mage182
09-17-2010, 05:54 AM
The Type-R axles are 7.5mm longer than the Type-S. I personally would not want my axles popping out or the CV joints separating while I'm driving down the road.

If they Type-S axles were fine to use... Then Honda wouldn't have made longer axles for the Type-R.




tried them all no luck.
Gotta try subaru again tho

Some one posted up a thread on honda tech about this for his rsx
he said his type s axel didn't work. everyone that replied said to get the type R axel.
What do you think dude?

spartan
09-19-2010, 03:40 PM
The Type-R axles are 7.5mm longer than the Type-S. I personally would not want my axles popping out or the CV joints separating while I'm driving down the road.

If they Type-S axles were fine to use... Then Honda wouldn't have made longer axles for the Type-R.

so your saying type s should still work even tho they're just a tad shorter?
Cuz i have one type r axel an one type s, so did this dude from the honda tech post an it didn't work for him.
unless he doesn't know how to attatch axles.

mage182
09-20-2010, 06:08 AM
so your saying type s should still work even tho they're just a tad shorter?
Cuz i have one type r axel an one type s, so did this dude from the honda tech post an it didn't work for him.
unless he doesn't know how to attatch axles.

The distance between the output of the gearbox and the backside of the steering knuckle is a fixed distance. It never changes. However, since the track of the Type-R is 15mm wider than other Honda models, that distance is 7.5mm longer on each side. So if you use an axle that is 7.5mm too short than it won't properly seat on both sides. Since you're putting an axle nut on the end that goes into the hub that side shouldn't move at all; the side that goes into the gearbox isn't mechanically fastened so in an extreme case that could be the side that pops out... while you're driving...

spartan
09-21-2010, 03:38 AM
The distance between the output of the gearbox and the backside of the steering knuckle is a fixed distance. It never changes. However, since the track of the Type-R is 15mm wider than other Honda models, that distance is 7.5mm longer on each side. So if you use an axle that is 7.5mm too short than it won't properly seat on both sides. Since you're putting an axle nut on the end that goes into the hub that side shouldn't move at all; the side that goes into the gearbox isn't mechanically fastened so in an extreme case that could be the side that pops out... while you're driving...

let me get this straight, i gotta use both type s axles or both type r axles otherwise one side is gonna come up short. I cant run one of each. The half shaft souoldn't matter then right?

mage182
09-21-2010, 06:12 AM
let me get this straight, i gotta use both type s axles or both type r axles otherwise one side is gonna come up short. I cant run one of each. The half shaft souoldn't matter then right?

The half shaft is the same. You need to use both Type-R axles. Type-S axles are too short by 7.5mm each.

27rocks
09-21-2010, 09:09 AM
Hondafreak (christian) has the DC5 lower control arms and he is still using his OEM Ep axles without any issues. He also tracks his car and still no issues. The only thing that really changes is the camber you gain ~ -1 of camber.

spartan
09-21-2010, 05:07 PM
Hondafreak (christian) has the DC5 lower control arms and he is still using his OEM Ep axles without any issues. He also tracks his car and still no issues. The only thing that really changes is the camber you gain ~ -1 of camber.

he's just running the lower control arms from a Type R, or the entire brembo brake assembely?

spartan
09-21-2010, 05:14 PM
The half shaft is the same. You need to use both Type-R axles. Type-S axles are too short by 7.5mm each.

Dammit i wasted my money on a type s axle!

spartan
09-29-2010, 05:19 PM
[QUOTE=NxSpeedJunkieNx;34687484]http://i154.photobucket.com/albums/s244/dhossain/14sep4_b2201.gif

Someone on clubsrsx showed me this. It's from the Acura TL Type S. He said they run the same caliper as the ITR Brembo even tho it isn't labeled.
So tomorrow we'll see if my search for that damn brake retainer will come to an end.

mage182
09-30-2010, 07:46 AM
If that works it will be awesome.

My Type-S BMC and BB will be here today. I'm tentatively swapping my suspension starting next Thurs night pending weather. I'll post up any details or issues I run into.

27rocks
09-30-2010, 08:32 AM
he's just running the lower control arms from a Type R, or the entire brembo brake assembely?

Just the LCA's with StopTechs and stock Ep axles. The brakes have nothing to do with the LCA's they just simply bolt to the knuckle which is exactly the same as a 5 lug Ep3 or a RSX. the only difference is the spindle hole, but the caliper mounting spots are the same hence the reason why you can bolt up RSX-s calipers on an Ep.

spartan
10-01-2010, 04:11 PM
If that works it will be awesome.

My Type-S BMC and BB will be here today. I'm tentatively swapping my suspension starting next Thurs night pending weather. I'll post up any details or issues I run into.

lookin forward to hearing from you,
I just spent $250 on the axle i needed :(

mage182
10-08-2010, 03:50 PM
Update:

Back done. Everything bolts up fine. The DC5R rear sway makes the EP3 one look like a straw. There will def be some rubbing with the back wheels. Don't have it on the ground yet but some negative camber/fender rolling will be necessary.

Flywheel getting cut now. Front reassembly tomorrow.

mage182
10-09-2010, 09:26 PM
Update 2:

My driver's side axle is too short. I'm assuming it's not an ITR axle cause as soon as I thread the axle nut on the inner CY pops out. Gotta call and get it swapped out for the right one.

The ITR front sway bar is 23mm. I could not find bushings at the Honda dealer that are that size. Had to order a set of ES bushings. They'll be in Tuesday morn.

Watch out for the two AC lines that bolt to the subframe if you're taking that out.

Looks like there might be rubbing on the front too. I'll have to see how the alignment goes and how the new suspension (HFP) is.

spartan
10-11-2010, 02:37 PM
Update:

Back done. Everything bolts up fine. The DC5R rear sway makes the EP3 one look like a straw. There will def be some rubbing with the back wheels. Don't have it on the ground yet but some negative camber/fender rolling will be necessary.

Flywheel getting cut now. Front reassembly tomorrow.

I don't need the rear itr sway do i?
What wheels are you using?
What does flywheel cutting mean?

post some pics!!

spartan
10-11-2010, 02:40 PM
When i bought my front sway they came with new bushings. I hope they work.
POST PICS!!!

mage182
10-11-2010, 07:14 PM
I don't need the rear itr sway do i?
What wheels are you using?
What does flywheel cutting mean?

post some pics!!

You don't need it. But it's engineered to work with the front one and if you compare the USDM and ITR rear the ITR one is double the thickness.
I'm using OEM DC5 ITR wheels
When you replace the clutch you should have the flywheel resurfaced. It provide the best possible mating surface. Cost me $20 at the local shop.



When i bought my front sway they came with new bushings. I hope they work.
POST PICS!!!

If they are OEM the size should be printed on the side of the bushings. Stock is 25.4mm. I measured ITR at 23mm and ordered those from ES.



Should be getting replacement axle tomorrow.

mage182
10-12-2010, 04:55 PM
When i bought my front sway they came with new bushings. I hope they work.
POST PICS!!!

Do you have the part numbers for the bushings? My ES bushings won't fit. Thanks.

spartan
10-13-2010, 06:29 PM
51306-s6m-005

mage182
10-19-2010, 05:57 AM
51306-s6m-005

Thanks for that. I ordered a set.

Update: Still no driver's side axle. Which makes me weary if the passenger's side is the right one either. I got a Type-S axle last night as a second to last resort so I'll see how that fits later. If it doesn't fit which is the most likely outcome I'll have to go to the last resort and order a set of new axles from DriveShaftShop.

Did you find that caliper pad spring?

spartan
10-20-2010, 04:38 PM
Thanks for that. I ordered a set.

Update: Still no driver's side axle. Which makes me weary if the passenger's side is the right one either. I got a Type-S axle last night as a second to last resort so I'll see how that fits later. If it doesn't fit which is the most likely outcome I'll have to go to the last resort and order a set of new axles from DriveShaftShop.

Did you find that caliper pad spring?

Damn i hope it doesn't come to having to buy from DSS. That's so expensive!
No luck finding that pad spring. I'm convinced I'm gonna have to go to Japan to find it. haha.
Although I've been talking to the dude from the UK that sold me the ITR axle i needed an he called around for me an said he could get one but not till the end of December. I told him I'll give him $100 if he can get me one. It's either that or I buy another brake kit on ebay, or find some where to fabricate me one.

Passenger
10-20-2010, 04:56 PM
Thanks I guess, not sure what you mean tho.

Damn spartan means: Wow man
You are an ambitious one means : You're putting in a lot of money / effort / time for this
Sub'd just to watch your homework means: I sub'd to see how you progress throughout this thread.

spartan
10-20-2010, 11:56 PM
Damn spartan means: Wow man
You are an ambitious one means : You're putting in a lot of money / effort / time for this
Sub'd just to watch your homework means: I sub'd to see how you progress throughout this thread.

Thanks for dumbing it down for me.
Just one more stupid little part an im ready so put this project together.

mage182
10-28-2010, 06:23 AM
Update: I got my new axles from DriveShaftShop. They are definitely a different design from the other I have. I now have the driver's side completely assembled and ready to bleed brakes. Using the DC5-R axle, the '02 EP3 ABS sensor no longer fits as it is longer than the DC5-R one that I have which was cut in half. I had to put 2 thin washers under the mounting bolt on the EP3 sensor to keep it from riding on the ring.

I'll put in the passenger side axle tonight and bleed brakes. Should be ready for an alignment on Saturday.

spartan
11-05-2010, 03:58 PM
Update: I got my new axles from DriveShaftShop. They are definitely a different design from the other I have. I now have the driver's side completely assembled and ready to bleed brakes. Using the DC5-R axle, the '02 EP3 ABS sensor no longer fits as it is longer than the DC5-R one that I have which was cut in half. I had to put 2 thin washers under the mounting bolt on the EP3 sensor to keep it from riding on the ring.

I'll put in the passenger side axle tonight and bleed brakes. Should be ready for an alignment on Saturday.

Big day for you tomorrow, hope all goes well.
take a some pics while your at it.

spartan
12-14-2010, 08:21 PM
Brake retainer finally being shipper from my connect in the UK. finally this project will come to an end with all the parts i need... Hopefully.

vip...9
12-21-2010, 08:10 AM
So if I get the whole ITR brembo swap, does anyone know from that point on if I have to get all ITR aftermarket parts like sway bars, coilovers, control arms, tierods... Basically what I am asking is everytime I order any suspension part for my EP and they ask me for what car... should I just automatically say it's for a DC5 ITR or would that depend on what part it is? I hope that makes sense..

mage182
12-22-2010, 08:58 AM
So if I get the whole ITR brembo swap, does anyone know from that point on if I have to get all ITR aftermarket parts like sway bars, coilovers, control arms, tierods... Basically what I am asking is everytime I order any suspension part for my EP and they ask me for what car... should I just automatically say it's for a DC5 ITR or would that depend on what part it is? I hope that makes sense..

If you do that they'll look at you like you have 10 heads.

Sway bars you get can get on the net. Not too hard to find.
Coilovers anything will work from an RSX-S. I have EP3 HFP suspension on my car. I had to put a few washers on the rear swing arm mounting points but it works fine.
Control arms would be difficult to find a replacement for. That should come with the swap.
Tie rod ends go with what suspension you are using. I got HFP so I just use regular EP3 tie rod ends.
Sway bar endlinks you can use RSX-S, but the bushings for them are different. The rear is 22mm and the front is 23.5 I think. There is a post in this thread with their part number from the Acura dealer.
Axles are a problem too. Hard to source and there is no US equivalent.

spartan
01-06-2011, 07:13 PM
So if I get the whole ITR brembo swap, does anyone know from that point on if I have to get all ITR aftermarket parts like sway bars, coilovers, control arms, tierods... Basically what I am asking is everytime I order any suspension part for my EP and they ask me for what car... should I just automatically say it's for a DC5 ITR or would that depend on what part it is? I hope that makes sense..

just buy aftermarket brakes,
This was a real bitch to find all the parts.
On that note today i have completed my the parts list. today. about 15 mins ago i finally got the brake retainer i needed.
Gonna have the brake dust shields removed (they're FUBAR and useless) and my buddy an i are gonna install the rear brakes & suspension.
And im gonna have a shop do the front + bmc & booster/sway bar n brake lines and stuff.
I don't have anytime to work on it myself.

spartan
01-19-2011, 06:01 PM
Ok dudes surgery begins tomorrow!
Paying someone i met on clubrsx to do everything for $230
wish me luck guys i hope i don't run into any problems i work the same night.
I bought Prestone DOT 3 brake fluid i hope that works ok.
I'm nervous!

mage182
01-20-2011, 09:26 AM
Did you get washers to prop up the front ABS sensors? They're longer than the JDM parts and touch the ring if not spaced out.

Be careful with the axle seals on the gearbox. I must have nicked one of mine and I have a slow leak. I'll replace it in the spring.

spartan
01-20-2011, 09:58 PM
I got the wrong axel.
Gonna see if i can have the correct one repaired.
also theres these metal inserts i need for the lower ball joint on the front control arms.
I really need these pieces, please help me.
Ill post a pic.
I also need a rear sway bar, stock ep3 rear sway does not match up. Hopefully ITR rear works.
Meanwhile I am without car and i cant get to work.
FUCK.

spartan
01-20-2011, 11:50 PM
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110120_153120-1.jpg

mage182
01-21-2011, 09:19 AM
I got the wrong axel.
Gonna see if i can have the correct one repaired.
also theres these metal inserts i need for the lower ball joint on the front control arms.
I really need these pieces, please help me.
Ill post a pic.
I also need a rear sway bar, stock ep3 rear sway does not match up. Hopefully ITR rear works.
Meanwhile I am without car and i cant get to work.
FUCK.

Make sure the axle shaft isn't separated from the inner CV at rest. That was the problem I had. I kept putting axles in to find that the inner CV was all pulled out.

Why do you need the metal insets for the LCAs? If you have the DC5R knuckles everything should just bolt up no problem. Otherwise I believe King Motorsports carries those inserts.

Rear sway bar can be had from ebay or ICB. Make sure you get the 22mm bushings to go with it. Stock brackets will work. Make sure you lube the bushings.

spartan
01-21-2011, 03:18 PM
Make sure the axle shaft isn't separated from the inner CV at rest. That was the problem I had. I kept putting axles in to find that the inner CV was all pulled out.

Why do you need the metal insets for the LCAs? If you have the DC5R knuckles everything should just bolt up no problem. Otherwise I believe King Motorsports carries those inserts.

Rear sway bar can be had from ebay or ICB. Make sure you get the 22mm bushings to go with it. Stock brackets will work. Make sure you lube the bushings.

WOW AWESOME
Thanks for the help ill get right in this!

spartan
01-22-2011, 02:53 PM
Check it out, I know this doesn't look right. what do i need here at the bottom?
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110122_125246.jpg

spartan
01-23-2011, 02:32 PM
you were right, someone on clubrsx told me the same thing. I'm missing the steel bushing insert.
I sent an email to king motorsports.

There was something else I've been wondering, this prolly sounds really dumb but I want to make sure I'm right. If I need the DC5R axle on my passenger side of my ep then I ask for the driver side axle on the DC5R correct?

mage182
01-24-2011, 06:58 AM
you were right, someone on clubrsx told me the same thing. I'm missing the steel bushing insert.
I sent an email to king motorsports.

There was something else I've been wondering, this prolly sounds really dumb but I want to make sure I'm right. If I need the DC5R axle on my passenger side of my ep then I ask for the driver side axle on the DC5R correct?

No that pic above doesn't look right. I don't recall inserts on mine but then again there should be something because the ball joint shouldn't be mounted into aluminum. Maybe someone removed the bushings off yours.

Where are you getting axles from? Why not just get what you need from DSS? That way they're brand new and you know they're the right ones.

spartan
01-24-2011, 03:03 PM
No that pic above doesn't look right. I don't recall inserts on mine but then again there should be something because the ball joint shouldn't be mounted into aluminum. Maybe someone removed the bushings off yours.

Where are you getting axles from? Why not just get what you need from DSS? That way they're brand new and you know they're the right ones.

I sent the pic to King motorsports and they said I'm missing the JDM lower ball joint sleeve which is pressed into the lower control arm. We have them in stock. The price is $75.00 for the pair.

And i would buy from DSS but Pann Auto (Famous in SD) is going to sell me one for $120 shipped. How much are both with DSS?

mage182
01-25-2011, 07:06 AM
I sent the pic to King motorsports and they said I'm missing the JDM lower ball joint sleeve which is pressed into the lower control arm. We have them in stock. The price is $75.00 for the pair.

And i would buy from DSS but Pann Auto (Famous in SD) is going to sell me one for $120 shipped. How much are both with DSS?

Hopefully the sleeves aren't too much of a hassle to press in.

The DSS axles were 130 each... for brand new axles. Are the ones from Pann brand new?

spartan
01-25-2011, 02:18 PM
Hopefully the sleeves aren't too much of a hassle to press in.

The DSS axles were 130 each... for brand new axles. Are the ones from Pann brand new?

...no

But good news is I got the axle i needed repaired an just got it back today, looks brand new!
So i don't need axles anymore.
And the "JDM lower ball joint sleeve" was shipped today from Wisconsin. not sure how long it's gonna take.
Hopefully it's here by the end of the week.
Then i really need an alignment, oil change, and get the wheels balanced... Another $150 gone.
All in all It's going to be $2k i've spent on this project. including wheels and aftermarket parts.
I hope that sleeve isn't a hassle either the guy that's gonna do it said he's just gonna hammer it in.
Oh and he never changed the brake booster, just the bmc he told me the boosters were the same.
That true?

mage182
01-26-2011, 07:30 AM
...no

But good news is I got the axle i needed repaired an just got it back today, looks brand new!
So i don't need axles anymore.
And the "JDM lower ball joint sleeve" was shipped today from Wisconsin. not sure how long it's gonna take.
Hopefully it's here by the end of the week.
Then i really need an alignment, oil change, and get the wheels balanced... Another $150 gone.
All in all It's going to be $2k i've spent on this project. including wheels and aftermarket parts.
I hope that sleeve isn't a hassle either the guy that's gonna do it said he's just gonna hammer it in.
Oh and he never changed the brake booster, just the bmc he told me the boosters were the same.
That true?

Let me know how it turns out. I still have to deal with my new 'clunk during shift' problem in the spring.

I think my total came to almost 5k for this project. And I didn't even get new pads/rotors. But I did get new axles, new clutch, tie rod ends, sway bar ends, HFP suspension, had the wheels powder coated, and 4 new tires.

Overall I think it's worth it tho. 115k miles and a completely new suspension. Should be good now til 250+k

spartan
01-26-2011, 03:31 PM
DAMN DUDE $5K!?
Did you have the check engine light come on?
how much did it cost to powder coat your wheels an how long did it take?


Oh there are some Tein Type Flex Coil overs hardly used on ebay, I want them so bad. Seller said he'd sell them to me for $850
what do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110638850286&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

mage182
01-27-2011, 10:40 AM
DAMN DUDE $5K!?
Did you have the check engine light come on?
how much did it cost to powder coat your wheels an how long did it take?


Oh there are some Tein Type Flex Coil overs hardly used on ebay, I want them so bad. Seller said he'd sell them to me for $850
what do you think?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110638850286&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT

That's what I thought too. But wait til you drive it. Both of my brothers have 3 series BMWs and said that it handles awesome... and too bad it's so slow lol.

I had 2 CELs. One for the sensor on the rubber elbow going into the intake... I took it out and cleaned it and it went away. The other was primary O2 which I got a replacement from Amazon. I attribute that to the car sitting in my driveway for a month while I waited for swaybar bushings and searched for the right axles.

I stripped the wheels myself with chemical stripper which took roughly 15 hours over the period of a few weeks. $80 per wheel to have them coated white. They came out really nice. Just need some new red lug nuts to match the red H and replace the ugly OEM ones.

I have a personal rule of never buying used suspension. You never know what you'll get. I'm perfectly happy with the HFP setup. For a DD do you really need adjustability? Then again you're in socal so you might want it to ride a little lower. Stock HFP ride height is fine for me since we got 16" of snow at my house last night.

BTW. I got Continental ExtremeContac DWS tires in OEM size for my wheels and they are awesome. Best tires I've owned.

spartan
01-31-2011, 08:13 PM
Ok so I finally got he inserts today courtesy of King Motorsports, when i noticed that I don't have a nut for the lower ball joint.
Also i really wanted to get this done today (obviously could not)
I tried getting it towed to the Honda dealership but it was too late in the day, but i was able to get a tech that's worked on my car many times to come over.
Now from what he told me it didn't sound good. He said the lower ball joint was tapered and the inserts were not.
He told me to take the control arm apart tomorrow an bring it in an he'll try pressing it in.
here's a pic of the inserts.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110131_184704.jpg

mage182
02-01-2011, 09:35 AM
Ok so I finally got he inserts today courtesy of King Motorsports, when i noticed that I don't have a nut for the lower ball joint.
Also i really wanted to get this done today (obviously could not)
I tried getting it towed to the Honda dealership but it was too late in the day, but i was able to get a tech that's worked on my car many times to come over.
Now from what he told me it didn't sound good. He said the lower ball joint was tapered and the inserts were not.
He told me to take the control arm apart tomorrow an bring it in an he'll try pressing it in.
here's a pic of the inserts.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110131_184704.jpg

Call King back. I believe that those inserts are so you can use DC5R lower control arms with EP3 or DC5(S) knuckles. The ball joints are different. As far as I know the DC5R bushings can't be sourced separately from the LCA itself. You may have to get LCAs from somewhere else.

I have no idea why someone would take those bushings out to begin with.

spartan
02-01-2011, 04:44 PM
Well the insert went in perfectly. I only needed one tho. now just need the nut for the lower ball joint.
02-04 didn't fit. going to try 05-06 in a bit

mage182
02-01-2011, 08:27 PM
Well the insert went in perfectly. I only needed one tho. now just need the nut for the lower ball joint.
02-04 didn't fit. going to try 05-06 in a bit

Awesome. You're almost there.

spartan
02-03-2011, 01:08 AM
Ok so got her running today but there are a few problems.
I should only be dropped 1.5 inches in the rear but i am slammed! i cant even fit my pinky in between the tire and wheel well.
I should get the fenders rolled, i wonder if that would make a difference... Makes me want to buy those coilovers i saw.
I also have no ABS, which really sucks! My buddy told me the connectors are different.
He told me 05 Type S in the front and the rears are fine. My stock ep3 cables are way different then the ITR ones.
Do you know which i should get?

mage182
02-03-2011, 07:09 AM
Ok so got her running today but there are a few problems.
I should only be dropped 1.5 inches in the rear but i am slammed! i cant even fit my pinky in between the tire and wheel well.
I should get the fenders rolled, i wonder if that would make a difference... Makes me want to buy those coilovers i saw.
I also have no ABS, which really sucks! My buddy told me the connectors are different.
He told me 05 Type S in the front and the rears are fine. My stock ep3 cables are way different then the ITR ones.
Do you know which i should get?

What suspension are you using? I was afraid of rubbing when I first set my car down on the ground. But I had a good place that did my alignment and it hasn't been a problem. I would avoid getting fenders rolled. It can cause problems with rust later.

You should be using the stock EP3 ABS wires. Have you tried those?

spartan
02-03-2011, 03:19 PM
What suspension are you using? I was afraid of rubbing when I first set my car down on the ground. But I had a good place that did my alignment and it hasn't been a problem. I would avoid getting fenders rolled. It can cause problems with rust later.

You should be using the stock EP3 ABS wires. Have you tried those?

I'm using brand new OEM 02-04 Type S shocks with Progress springs for an ep3. I'm thinking that little mix is why I'm so dropped in the rear. But the front is fine, looks perfect!
I think I'm goin to roll the fenders anyway. If that doesn't help then im getting coilovers.
I actually don't know which ABS wires I have attatched, I thought they were my EP3 ones cuz the ITR wires were cut.
I'm going to lift my car when i have time and check.

spartan
02-07-2011, 03:41 PM
FUCK FUCK FUCK FUCK!!!!
The ball joint popped out of the control arm and ripped out the axle on a 15mph turn.
Fender is fucked, front bumper is a little damaged but ok, side skirt is pretty fucked, and door has paint chipped off.
good news is i have an extra ITR axle and to fix this looks like i just need a washer in between the castle nut and control arm.
I should have saw this when i was putting it together. FUCK!
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110207_140347.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110207_140354.jpg
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110207_132256.jpg

mage182
02-08-2011, 06:45 AM
I don't think you should be relying on the castle nut to hold that sleeve in. If it's pressed in, it shouldn't be popping out. Are you sure that is the right sleeve for those control arms?

On a brighter note. Nice lug nuts. I'm still using stock but looking forward to a nice red set in the spring.

Heitzke
02-08-2011, 12:08 PM
I don't think you should be relying on the castle nut to hold that sleeve in. If it's pressed in, it shouldn't be popping out. Are you sure that is the right sleeve for those control arms?

On a brighter note. Nice lug nuts. I'm still using stock but looking forward to a nice red set in the spring.

Agreed, I don't know how that ball joint stayed in there for any length of time.

spartan
02-08-2011, 09:47 PM
well that fucker got out.
Spent all day trying to pull that damn axle out!
bastard wont budge!!
I need some air tools... I don't have any!
Tried getting out of whats left of the axle that's stuck inside the motor.
NO leverage at all! I don't know how to get that damn thing out!!
any idea's?
Some buddies might help me tomorrow so hopefully ill be driving.

mage182
02-09-2011, 06:47 AM
well that fucker got out.
Spent all day trying to pull that damn axle out!
bastard wont budge!!
I need some air tools... I don't have any!
Tried getting out of whats left of the axle that's stuck inside the motor.
NO leverage at all! I don't know how to get that damn thing out!!
any idea's?
Some buddies might help me tomorrow so hopefully ill be driving.

No air tools are needed to work on Hondas. You need a pry bar (16"), a long screw driver, and a hammer. If you can't get leverage with the pry bar, use the screw driver and hammer to tap on the inside surface of the axle pushing it out of the gearbox. Give it a few taps and then rotate. Repeat and it will come out.

Any update on the bushing problem? I think you need to look for OEM replacements. But I don't think you'll find them separately. You might have to buy another set of LCAs. I don't know why anyone would take the bushings out to begin with.

spartan
02-10-2011, 12:57 AM
No air tools are needed to work on Hondas. You need a pry bar (16"), a long screw driver, and a hammer. If you can't get leverage with the pry bar, use the screw driver and hammer to tap on the inside surface of the axle pushing it out of the gearbox. Give it a few taps and then rotate. Repeat and it will come out.

Any update on the bushing problem? I think you need to look for OEM replacements. But I don't think you'll find them separately. You might have to buy another set of LCAs. I don't know why anyone would take the bushings out to begin with.

Well i tried getting that damn thing out for 3 hrs an no luck. did it exactly like you said too.
good news it i got the axle off the hub put the insert with the ball joint back in the control arm enuff to screw that castle nut back on so i can put the wheel back on.
tomrrow im going to have it towed to a dealership where my buddy hooks me up to take that fucker out an put the other axle in.
I'm not goin to buy another set of control arms. i bought some steall washers about 4mm to place between the castle nut an control arm.
that should hold her together just fine.
oh yea i checked the ABS sensors and the Type R ones are bigger then my EP3 connectors. and i cant find my damn ep3 ones anywhere! so i guess i have to buy some.
just got the ITR rear sway and Skunk2 lower tie bar.
gonna throw those on pretty soon.
I cant wait for my Tein coilovers to get here! prolly gonna sell them haha.

spartan
02-10-2011, 02:46 PM
On the left is the ITR ABS sensor. on the right is my OEM EP3 ABS sensor. as you can see the ITR is different the plug is larger & the connect has a prong sticking out. So these are very different. Haven't been able to mess with them yet because I'm still trying to get my car running.
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110210_123854.jpg

mage182
02-11-2011, 06:38 AM
My ITR plugs were cut off so I had to use the EP3 sensors. On my car ('02) they were too long though, so I had to put two washers underneath the sensor before bolting it down. In this case it looks like your ITR sensor is longer. Your stock sensors may not even come close enough to the ring to operate correctly.

spartan
02-11-2011, 12:23 PM
so that's it, i can't have ABS?
Do you know if any RSX model's could fit?

Heitzke
02-11-2011, 03:10 PM
Cut the connectors off the EP3 sensors and solder onto the DC5R sensors?

mage182
02-11-2011, 10:15 PM
Cut the connectors off the EP3 sensors and solder onto the DC5R sensors?

If you solder them it will prob throw a code. Just put the EP3 ones on and see if the CEL comes on.

spartan
02-12-2011, 02:05 PM
If you solder them it will prob throw a code. Just put the EP3 ones on and see if the CEL comes on.

I'll try it on monday or tuesday, my day off.
DAMN end link on the passenger side broke some how.

At this point i wish i left my brakes an suspension alone.
This bullshit isn't worth it.

mage182
02-14-2011, 06:42 AM
I'll try it on monday or tuesday, my day off.
DAMN end link on the passenger side broke some how.

At this point i wish i left my brakes an suspension alone.
This bullshit isn't worth it.


Is that endlink new?

spartan
02-14-2011, 12:18 PM
Is that endlink new?

no it was the one from my EP3.
going to buy another one today.

spartan
02-16-2011, 12:58 PM
So i got the endlink on and the EP3 ABS cables on but it didn't look right (see pic) and when i put the wheel back on and spun it, it was too close to the ridges on the axle and now the sensor on the ABS is destroyed.
Maybe a small washer on the bolt?
http://i365.photobucket.com/albums/oo92/supercivicstack/IMG_20110214_170254.jpg

mage182
02-16-2011, 09:03 PM
Update: I got my new axles from DriveShaftShop. They are definitely a different design from the other I have. I now have the driver's side completely assembled and ready to bleed brakes. Using the DC5-R axle, the '02 EP3 ABS sensor no longer fits as it is longer than the DC5-R one that I have which was cut in half. I had to put 2 thin washers under the mounting bolt on the EP3 sensor to keep it from riding on the ring.

I'll put in the passenger side axle tonight and bleed brakes. Should be ready for an alignment on Saturday.


Did you get washers to prop up the front ABS sensors? They're longer than the JDM parts and touch the ring if not spaced out.

Be careful with the axle seals on the gearbox. I must have nicked one of mine and I have a slow leak. I'll replace it in the spring.

...

spartan
02-17-2011, 12:37 AM
hahaha sorry dude i should be reading more carefully.
so after you got those washers in your ABS worked fine?
have you tested it out?

mage182
02-17-2011, 06:38 AM
hahaha sorry dude i should be reading more carefully.
so after you got those washers in your ABS worked fine?
have you tested it out?

I put the washers on from the start when I was assembling everything. Didn't have a problem with it. No codes or anything.

spartan
02-17-2011, 01:19 PM
I put the washers on from the start when I was assembling everything. Didn't have a problem with it. No codes or anything.

I mean did you slam on the brakes in a safe place to see if the ABS would activate?
and how thick do you think that washer was you used for your ABS sensor?

mage182
02-18-2011, 07:25 AM
I mean did you slam on the brakes in a safe place to see if the ABS would activate?
and how thick do you think that washer was you used for your ABS sensor?

No I just put it all together. The ABS worked once it started snowing here. If there is a problem with it, the CEL with come on.

I would say about a 1/4". That left about and 1/8" gap between the sensor and the ring.

spartan
02-19-2011, 01:22 PM
No I just put it all together. The ABS worked once it started snowing here. If there is a problem with it, the CEL with come on.

I would say about a 1/4". That left about and 1/8" gap between the sensor and the ring.

Oh ok cool.
Well I broke the ball joint on the lower control arm trying to fasten the castle nut to get the coter pin thru.
I saw some Buddy Club ones. But they're close to $200 and i cant find them for the DC5R.
Back on jack stands she goes, when they come off nobody knows...

spartan
03-02-2011, 01:00 PM
Oh ok cool.
Well I broke the ball joint on the lower control arm trying to fasten the castle nut to get the coter pin thru.
I saw some Buddy Club ones. But they're close to $200 and i cant find them for the DC5R.
Back on jack stands she goes, when they come off nobody knows...

Got my car rolloing again, but there are all sorts of clunks and noises coming from the front.
I put on the rear sway bar an Tein Type Felx coil overs.
Feels like a completely different car. I almost spun out yesterday but caught it just in time. pretty scary!

mage182
03-03-2011, 06:55 AM
Got my car rolloing again, but there are all sorts of clunks and noises coming from the front.
I put on the rear sway bar an Tein Type Felx coil overs.
Feels like a completely different car. I almost spun out yesterday but caught it just in time. pretty scary!

I still have one clunk in the front. When driving if I shift from 1 > 2 or 2 > 3 when below 3000rpm I hear a little clunk. And sometimes if I shift into first when rolling up to a light. After a few months I'm not sure what it is. Let me know if you have anything similar.

spartan
03-03-2011, 01:14 PM
I still have one clunk in the front. When driving if I shift from 1 > 2 or 2 > 3 when below 3000rpm I hear a little clunk. And sometimes if I shift into first when rolling up to a light. After a few months I'm not sure what it is. Let me know if you have anything similar.

I havent really noticed when im shifting but when i turn on the car an shut it off there is a rumble of clunking noises
Also if i hit the brake with a nice amount off pressure theres a thump from the right front. not sure if it's coming from the brake.
You think these clunks aren't too serious?
My steering is also really weird, like it doesn't correct itself after turning.

rob_ep
03-13-2011, 06:57 PM
I am looking for one of those stupid spring retainer clips too! You didn't happen to get any extras or know where I can get one?

spartan
03-14-2011, 07:05 PM
Try king motorsports they've helped me with hard to find parts. other wise my buddy from the UK can order you one, but it will cost you $100.

spartan
03-14-2011, 07:08 PM
So I'm thinking those clunking noises can be the bushings on the front control arms.
I'm gonna see where i can buy a set an have them replaced then see whats up.

spartan
03-24-2011, 02:16 PM
posted this on crsx an a few people told me axles are bad.
just sprung $400 on the DSS level 0 Dc5 axles :(

rob_ep
04-29-2011, 08:28 AM
Thanks! I will give them a try but I will probably have to get ahold of your guy in the UK