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WhiteOnRice
05-28-2008, 12:49 PM
I'm in the middle of my 5 lug swap and I removed the front left knuckle and LCA from my parts rsx-s. I CANNOT free the lower ball joint. I don't want to damage it by using a fork-style ball joint remover. I've trying hitting the LCA downwards with a hammer but no luck. This is harder than my rust box 92 CX lower ball joint...

Any other ideas?

WhiteOnRice
05-28-2008, 12:52 PM
I'm looking for this type of remover but no parts store in my parents' town carries it... :doh:

http://www.eskimo.com/~mikeg/S2000/tie_rod_boot/Thumb_mad_rabbit.jpg

talonXracer
05-28-2008, 12:55 PM
You need the proper tool or a similar facsimile.

I used a simple two jaw puller. Remove the clip and nut, reinstall the nut upside down to protect the threads and apply the jaws of the puller on the little lips on either side of the ball joint on the LCA. apply some pressure and then hit the end of the LCA with a sledge hammer, it will pop apart.

Another less optimum procedure is to apply the nut upside down, and use a jack to apply upwards pressure on the balljoint and smack the LCA downwards with a sledgehammer. It will pop loose. The pickle fork is a last ditch tool, the boots will need to be replaced(they cost 2$ a piece).


I'm looking for this type of remover but no parts store in my parents' town carries it... :doh:

http://www.eskimo.com/~mikeg/S2000/tie_rod_boot/Thumb_mad_rabbit.jpg

They have to be ordered, no auto parts store carries them. If you want one make sure you dont buy the cheapest one, you will be sorry, try this one.
http://www.toolsource.com/ball-joint-separator-p-94185.html?sourceid=bizrate

RedSiBaron
05-28-2008, 12:58 PM
i ended up using a pickle fork getting my 4 lug setup out and i didnt actually damage it...though it sucks and you do usually screw them up...

thanks for the tool link talon, i actually was looking for that...

dcmpbl
05-28-2008, 06:43 PM
I ordered that type of tool and was not happy. Maybe it was the cheap one you warn about Talon..? Either way, I was very successful with the claw type with a screw in the middle--bought at Autozone. I did have to grind the claw casting to fit over the LCA, but once there is a good amount of pressure on the ball joint's threaded part, a good smack at the LCA will pop it. Just be sure to protect the threaded part of the ball joint (with the nut on backwards and a nickle) and grease the tool's threads before starting.