best swaybar set

[the JigGa mAn]

what is the "best" or most favorable f/r swaybar set up?

this is going to be my next mod forsure, im starting my hw

i know there is the hotchkis, progress, neuspeed, type r rear, em1 front, type s rear...among others

[MugsyTheGr8]

what is the "best" or most favorable f/r swaybar set up?

this is going to be my next mod forsure, im starting my hw

i know there is the hotchkis, progress, neuspeed, type r rear, em1 front, type s rear...among others
depends on what you want. the stiffer/thicker the rear sway, the more off throttle over steer. sway bars are a tool for tuning

[the JigGa mAn]

depends on what you want. the stiffer/thicker the rear sway, the more off throttle over steer. sway bars are a tool for tuning

aggressive street driving, drag racing, road racing/open track events and MAYBE auto x

[MugsyTheGr8]

aggressive street driving, drag racing, road racing/open track events and MAYBE auto x

what was suggested to me was buy the acura rsx 21mm. you can find used ones on crsx for pretty cheap. after that you can decide if you want stiffer still

[the JigGa mAn]

what was suggested to me was buy the acura rsx 21mm. you can find used ones on crsx for pretty cheap. after that you can decide if you want stiffer still

and what about the front?

[talonXracer]

EM2 front sway and a 05'DC5S rear sway, along with alot better struts than stock.

[Epcivic82]

Will a Integra type r DC5 sway bar fit an Ep??

[ep_hatcher_510]

:faint:

[Zzyzx]

aggressive street driving, drag racing, road racing/open track events and MAYBE auto x

That really didnt answer the question...

How is the car handling now? Does it understeer too much? oversteer? what? and what as a driver are you doing when either happen?

Anti-roll bars are a tuning tool that allow you to balance the cars oversteer & understeer for your application. Meaning there is no universal "best".

So, find out what the car is actually doing now, and then we can walk you through the tuning process.

[the JigGa mAn]

That really didnt answer the question...

How is the car handling now? Does it understeer too much? oversteer? what? and what as a driver are you doing when either happen?

Anti-roll bars are a tuning tool that allow you to balance the cars oversteer & understeer for your application. Meaning there is no universal "best".

So, find out what the car is actually doing now, and then we can walk you through the tuning process.

oh sorry..

well i just got buddy club n+ coilovers put on, and the car seems to understeer alot more now

[ep3k20a2]

just the info i was looking for

[Zzyzx]

oh sorry..

well i just got buddy club n+ coilovers put on, and the car seems to understeer alot more now

Entering the turn, Mid turn or exiting the turn? and what have you set your dampers to? Also, what speeds does it seem to happen more or less at?

[the JigGa mAn]

Entering the turn, Mid turn or exiting the turn? and what have you set your dampers to? Also, what speeds does it seem to happen more or less at?

middle of the turn, dampers are set in the middle (pretty soft imo) im going to change that this weekend, the understeer is very noticeable at about 55-60mph in middle of the turn, and 15-25 mph in middle of slow speed turns

[civictype_r04]

I have read that the 22mm bar for the rear (Type R, Progress, Tanabe) and the EM2 bar for the front are the best to use.

[Zzyzx]

middle of the turn, dampers are set in the middle (pretty soft imo) im going to change that this weekend, the understeer is very noticeable at about 55-60mph in middle of the turn, and 15-25 mph in middle of slow speed turns

We seem to be having this same conversation elsewhere...

Regardless, Mid turn understeer can be caused by many things, from anti-roll bar choice to spring rates & alignments.

Curious, are you adding throttle at this point or at "neutral" throttle (neither accelerating or decelerating)


as far as dampers, I'd try this 1st. Soften the nose a bit and stiffen the rear a bit. Soft = Grip & stiff = slip and if the car is under steering that means you need more grip on the nose and less on the rear.

[killrep3]

why em2 sway, to me thats to soft , i would use 27solid or a 26.5 dc5 05 sway. right now i have a stock ep3 02 front sway, and rear progress 22mm solid, and H&R spring 2.0". and it feels quicker steering on a street turn. but when it comes a high circle turn i have still alot of front roll

[the JigGa mAn]

We seem to be having this same conversation elsewhere...

Regardless, Mid turn understeer can be caused by many things, from anti-roll bar choice to spring rates & alignments.

Curious, are you adding throttle at this point or at "neutral" throttle (neither accelerating or decelerating)


as far as dampers, I'd try this 1st. Soften the nose a bit and stiffen the rear a bit. Soft = Grip & stiff = slip and if the car is under steering that means you need more grip on the nose and less on the rear.

it actually happens under both throttle conditions..but more so under neutral

[mustclime]

why em2 sway, to me thats to soft , i would use 27solid or a 26.5 dc5 05 sway. right now i have a stock ep3 02 front sway, and rear progress 22mm solid, and H&R spring 2.0". and it feels quicker steering on a street turn. but when it comes a high circle turn i have still alot of front roll

With a big front bar your car will be flat but you will have no grip........been there, done that.....:mwink:

[Slip_Angle]

With a big front bar your car will be flat but you will have no grip........been there, done that.....:mwink:

Depends on what springs and shocks you have. I run the 27mm Progress Solid and the 24mm Progress rear and have tons of grip.

Like Zzyzx said, soft=grip. I have the soft HFP suspension and control body roll with sway bars. Works great.

[mustclime]

Depends on what springs and shocks you have. I run the 27mm Progress Solid and the 24mm Progress rear and have tons of grip.

Like Zzyzx said, soft=grip. I have the soft HFP suspension and control body roll with sway bars. Works great.

well I had sportlines,d-specs, and progress sways on both ends with camber kits f&r......it was a snowplowing pig....but it was flat..

I am now running 15.9 mm ft sway with a 25mm rear with 375lb springs in the ft and 600lb springs in the rear with konis and the car is on rails....It will lean but just to take a set for the turn.

[Zzyzx]

it actually happens under both throttle conditions..but more so under neutral

1st thing I'd be looking at doing is optimizing your alignment, and after that re-tweaking your damper valving.

[frm_808]

Will a Integra type r DC5 sway bar fit an Ep??

revive from the dead

i too would like to know this since it is a direct bolt on to the base model and type-s im pretty sure it will have no problem with the ep3

[Drew1d]

revive from the dead

i too would like to know this since it is a direct bolt on to the base model and type-s im pretty sure it will have no problem with the ep3

I have an JDM ITR rear, (Which I thought was an CTR, but I was wrong) and it fits fine. I'm not sure the front would fit.

[classiccelica]

See I want mine to handle like the type r, but I also have skunk2 pro s coil overs. Wouldn't just starigh type r sways be better anyway?

[Zzyzx]

See I want mine to handle like the type r, but I also have skunk2 pro s coil overs. Wouldn't just starigh type r sways be better anyway?

Have you driven a Type R? If not, then how would you know it if you got your car to handle like one.



Any way, Tuning with anti-roll bars is easy.

1st Take an objective look at how the car is handling now. Does it tend to oversteer? does it tend to understeer?

Now, assuming your car has a decent alignment (I cant stress this enough), if the car tends to understeer you have two options. 1, you can soften the front bar and increase the amount of grip that end of the car can make or you can 2 Stiffen the rear end and reduce the amount of traction that end can make. Spring rate limitations, ride height choice and alignment settings are going to determine if and how much softer you can make your front anti-roll bar. If you are running soft progressive spring rates you may actually be forced to run a stiffer front bar, just to stabilize the tires contact patches.

So you can see that by just buying parts and slapping them on the car may yield poor results, if those parts were designed to work with a different spring rate ect..

[frm_808]

I have an JDM ITR rear, (Which I thought was an CTR, but I was wrong) and it fits fine. I'm not sure the front would fit.

cool thanks man! picking mine up this weekend for free!!:mcool:

[SiRider]

hotchkis competition set

[NHBP ep3]

I am now running 15.9 mm ft sway with a 25mm rear with 375lb springs in the ft and 600lb springs in the rear with konis and the car is on rails....It will lean but just to take a set for the turn.

why is it that you and many other people run stiffer springs in the rear than in the front of the car when there is more weight in the front of the car than the rear, my thinking is wouldent you want softer springs in the rear and harder in the front becuase the rear has less weight to hold the car down threw a turn and the front can handle stiffer springs because it has the weight in the front?

that being said because of zzyzx statment Soft = Grip & stiff = slip

so running stiffer springs in the rear will cause the rear to slide out easier?

[Zzyzx]

why is it that you and many other people run stiffer springs in the rear than in the front of the car when there is more weight in the front of the car than the rear, my thinking is wouldent you want softer springs in the rear and harder in the front becuase the rear has less weight to hold the car down threw a turn and the front can handle stiffer springs because it has the weight in the front?

that being said because of zzyzx statment Soft = Grip & stiff = slip

so running stiffer springs in the rear will cause the rear to slide out easier?

Spring rates don't really mean much on their own. As you have to take in to account the motion ratio of the suspension and the weight each corner is holding...

In this cars case, the front motion ratio is about .9 where as the rear is about .56.

Meaning on the front end, 90% of the spring rate is makeing it to the tires contact patch, where as only about 56% is... so using motion ratios & spring ates, we learn the cars Wheel rates. Which is almost useful, but should explain one reason why rear spring rates on this car tend to be higher then the front.

So, with the .9 vs .56, that means that the rear spring rate will have to be nearly double the front spring rate for the front and rear to have similar wheel rates.


Finally, we get to Suspension frequencies, which actually tell us how stiff a given suspension is based on that suspensions motion ratio's the spring rates & how much weight that suspension is holding. And Suspension frequencies are the best way to describe a given suspension (In Hz), but requires a lot more information then what the average car owner has.

[NHBP ep3]

that is pritty confusion but u did clear it up for the most part of (why) now the why becomes a (huh?) l0l thx tho

[Zzyzx]

that is pritty confusion but u did clear it up for the most part of (why) now the why becomes a (huh?) l0l thx tho

I'll walk you through a hypothetical

Take an average EP3,

Spring rates F = 375 LB/inch
Spring rates R = 600 LB/inch

Given motion ratios (.9 Front & .56 Rear) that gives us....
Front Wheel rate = 337.5 LB/Inch
Rear Wheel Rate = 336 LB/Inch

Tie in your average weight of the car Front to rear and you can calculate out Suspension Frequencies, which give us...
Front suspension Frequency = 2.03 Hz
Rear Suspension Frequency = 2.10 Hz


So... Even though the spring rates are initially heavily biased on the rear, the wheel rates are actually slightly stiffer on the front, and once you calculate in Weight, you find that the rear is slightly stiffer by a whopping .07 Hz.

[Soon2beEP3]

I have a good deal of oversteer in my car when I'm cutting hard lefts and rights on slow speed turns, usually limited to 25 mph. Right now, I have the skunk 2 sleeve overs on stock struts, stock sways. What I need to kno is can I salvage my sleeveovers or shud I just scrap them and get something nicer? I'm wanting to make my car like mustclime says "on rails". They do have the stiffer rates in the front than the rear, and it is lowered all the way so my lcas are at an extreme angle.

[Princess]

I would go Progress or CTR rear and stock front.

[Zzyzx]

I have a good deal of oversteer in my car when I'm cutting hard lefts and rights on slow speed turns, usually limited to 25 mph. Right now, I have the skunk 2 sleeve overs on stock struts, stock sways. What I need to kno is can I salvage my sleeveovers or shud I just scrap them and get something nicer? I'm wanting to make my car like mustclime says "on rails". They do have the stiffer rates in the front than the rear, and it is lowered all the way so my lcas are at an extreme angle.


I would say that good dampers should be your #1 priority, and could be the cause of your current handling issues. No to mention your ride height, I assume you are bottoming out on the bumpstops.

[Soon2beEP3]

Okay, so things I can do would be raise it back up and this is theoretical but what do you think if I switched the front and rear coils out, putting the lower spring rates up front and the stiffer springs in the rear. Idk why it wouldn't work because they are identical