discovered a problem today.

[v1c10us]

I was driving around and I was at about 2500 rpms in 4th gear and I pushed the gas, I'm used to the car bogging down and not really going, but something new happened, the car jerked and bucked and then kinda just made a very tough Groaning noise.
It felt very much like one time when I melted my catalytic converter on my old accord and it got all clogged, it just doesnt wanna do it.

I was confused as to what was going on, so i dropped a gear to get me to about 3300 and gunned it and it bucked once and then went.
Anything under about 3600 and it does is and the lower I go the more extreme it is.
When I go full out in 1st gear theres nothing, theres no sign of anything unless I'm in a fairly low rpms.
Im not used to the car doing this at these speeds, It feels sort of like the fuel is cutting out.
edit: help?

[talonXracer]

Try pulling the ECU/FI fuse in the underhood fusebox.

[v1c10us]

I'll give that a shot tomorrow..
this might be a farcry from the problem, but I broke 2 valvecover studs, Im fairly sure its still stuck on there very well cause its hondabonded(yeah I know i wasn't supposed to use the hondabond for the valvecover, but i still had a whole tube so i'm using it all up before i buy the proper stuff, whatever its called)I don't know if that would do anything though.
If not, any more ideas that way i can attempt to troubleshoot them all at once tomorrow?
edit: i have kpro but i'm running the stock k20a3 kal, i'm going to assume I should just reload the kal instead of pulling the ecu fuse, or should i do both?

[talonXracer]

Also remember that those studs retain the cam towers and cams, they must be replaced ASAP.

[v1c10us]

Also remember that those studs retain the cam towers and cams, they must be replaced ASAP.

oh poo, I guess I better get on that...

[v1c10us]

pulled the ecu fuse, also did the idle relearn
nothing changed..
I think its odd that it only does this when i am in too high of a gear...
it occured recently after putting freeon in my AC.
It had been completely empty from an engine swap where the lines got disconnected and the compressor wouldn't even turn on even when i put the AC on. I refilled it and was dissapointed at the ridiculous power loss due to the AC being on as well as the fact that the car vibrates apart and idles funny as heck with the AC on..
THen shortly after I noticed this happening, it almost feels like the AC compressor is going on and off and on and off

[pynikal]

ac compressor going on and off in short cycles tells me that the charge is low. but you said that you just charged it! do you have an AC system leak somewere?? and as far as the bucking(this is a strech)but could that be the compressor starting to lock up?? but when you at higher rpms it move more freely?? (total guess here)

[itchy5]

ac compressor going on and off in short cycles tells me that the charge is low. but you said that you just charged it! do you have an AC system leak somewere?? and as far as the bucking(this is a strech)but could that be the compressor starting to lock up?? but when you at higher rpms it move more freely?? (total guess here)

i think its the honda goblins wrenching up his engine bay during the night :mangel:

[pynikal]

i think its the honda goblins wrenching up his engine bay during the night :mangel:


oh man! i totally forgot about those guys!!:mwink::mbiggrin:

[The new Paul03]

I had a problem like that in my old dodge it ended up being a motor mount.

[v1c10us]

the motor mount is worth looking into as my shit does shake a shit ton when i've got the AC on.
also, would the compressor cycle on and off even when my AC isnt on?
i hope that bitch aint locking up because those things are expensive

[talonXracer]

There has to be something wrong to have the A/C pump cycling when it isnt selected, you do know that the A/C is on when you have defrost and defrost/floor selected, right?

[v1c10us]

There has to be something wrong to have the A/C pump cycling when it isnt selected, you do know that the A/C is on when you have defrost and defrost/floor selected, right?

yes, I never have it on those sections though
I do not know if the A/C is on when it isn't on but the power loss at low rpms feels akin to the AC turning on and off, since this problem has only occured since i refilled the freon and I know that the AC uses a pressure switch so that it will not work if empty I can only assume it has something to do with the AC

[Bificus]

I just just started having the a/c compressor on/off. R134 is full actually appears to be over pressured. Could it be the relay for the A/C clutch?

[v1c10us]

is it a really fast on and off that makes the car jerky at lower RPMS?

[Bificus]

Not really fast but somewhat jerky indeed. What is the correct pressure for 134a on our cars anyhow?

[v1c10us]

hmm, I'm not sure, im on my iphone so i cant access the service manual, im thinking my pressure could be too high?
cause i emptied a whole can in there since it was completely empty before, now it might be over filled

[Bificus]

I figured out that I was checking the pressures when it was too hot. The pressure was slightly above normal the next morning. Its cold air but cycles more than it used to.

[v1c10us]

i used the wrong kind of freeon refill, apparantly arctic freeze fucks your shit up, my friend just got out off Nashville auto diesel college and he said its my compresser siezing up and I should take it somewhere to get the a/c serviced and refilled with regular PAG freeon

[chubbychu]

o noes!!!!1111 car is dying!!!!11111111111

hahahah! :rofl:

[Bificus]

Sorry man, that stuff is all over the shelves. I opted for the Dupont R134a and put a can of it in my SI.