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MugenReplica
06-02-2008, 09:42 AM
What is a Jackson Racing Supercharger kit?
It's basically a belt driven air pump that pulls air and gas into the motor which in return creates more horsepower. This is a slightly complex modification, which is harder to install than a CAI or RH. Anybody with the proper tools, a place to work on their Ep3, instructions, and a little time however can install this without any problems. Jackson Research at www.supercharger.com makes a kit for our 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si aka the Ep3. The current JRSC for the 2002-2005 Honda Civic Si uses the Eaton Gen IV M62 Supercharger. The supercharger is made by the Eaton Group (see their supercharger page (http://www.automotive.eaton.com/product/engine_controls/superchargers/superchargers.asp)) but all service and aftermarket work is done by Magnuson Products, Inc. (see their supercharger page (http://www.magnusonproducts.com/superchargers.htm)).

What am I looking to get for wheel horsepower with this kit?
That depends. Jackson has a "street" and a "race" version. The street version will add between 30 and 50 horsepower at the front wheels.
(see STREET KIT DYNO (http://www.supercharger.com/CustomerService/DynoChart.aspx?Chart=03%20Civic%20SI%20Street%20SC .gif).)
(see official RACE KIT DYNO) (http://www.supercharger.com/graphics/products/zoom/989-300racedyno.jpg).
*Cliff Notes - Please notice that Jackson has compares a totally stock Ep3 with a low baseline to a supercharged Ep3 that not only has a JRSC, but also race header and a larger exhaust, so the gains are not all from the JRSC, but are an extension of the other modifications on the engine which will result in higher whp.
**Cliff Notes - Also notice that the average RACE KIT owner seems to make in the neighborhood of 205-215whp with the 3.8" pulley. Some Ep3 owners however have made up to 235whp(jerseyjew from Ephatch) or 244whp(Oogy-Boogy from Ephatch) on stock top and bottom ends. Panathrasher(another Ep3 owner) made in the neighborhood of 255whp with the addition of Brian Crower Stage II cams for the K20a3, K24a1, and K24a4 heads, while at the same time losing a lb. in boost. So cams seem to be a very good addition to the RACE KIT.

Does Jackson have different "race" versions?
Yes, Jackson Racing has upgrades for their basic 5psi STREET kit. It consists of a smaller pulley (4.0") that increases boost from about 5 psi to 7 psi. It also requires a different Hondata ECU reflash and adds larger 440cc injectors to the mix. You could also do what some call the "ghetto" race kit and run the powercard with 310cc injectors and the 4.0" pulley. That has been tried before and seems to have great results.

Can I break into the 13's with the RACE kit?
Yes, Jerseyjew another Ep3 owner has a RACE kit tuned by Jeff Evans that puts out in the neighborhood of 235whp and has run as fast as a 13.3 timeslip. Fsugatorbait yet another member ran a 14.2 with just the standard STREET kit with full bolt ons. So yes it is possible with the correct driver and the proper setup(CAI/maxbore/4.0" pulley/440cc injectors/Kpro/RH/E/drag radials).

My friend says turbo is better, is it?
This is an age old discussion. Generally, people who want an "all motor" feel seem to buy a JRSC kit. It tends to have less top end power than a turbo, but many people prefer the instant response and more linear power of a supercharger. Plus as a whole the JRSC kits are considered more "reliable" as a whole.

How much do the JRSC kits cost?
The street has a list price of $2,395.00. The race version with ECU reflash is $2,795.00. The race version with Kpro is $3,395.00. They also have a version with NO ECU management system at $2,695.00.


My race version with Kpro was about $2500 or something after Moss raised their prices so good prices can be gotten if you try hard enough to find them.

How much does it cost to install it?
I wouldn't pay much over $650 MAX. It most likely could be had for much less, closer to $350-$400.

What will my mpg be?
I've heard anywhere from 24mpg to 30mpg highway depending on the driver and how heavy he is on the throttle. Typically the supercharger is only in boost 5% to 10% of the time. The rest of the time the bypass valve is in operation which keeps it out of boost and helps your gas mileage.


I, as well as a few others have seen increased gas mileage with the supercharger. This is limited to highway driving though. I get about 30-32mpg.

Is the JRSC CARB legal?
The STREET kit is CARB (California Air Resources Board) legal and you get a sticker to prove it. The race version on the other hand is not. Many Ep3 owners who are in CA have opted buy the STREET kit for the CARB sticker and build off from it at a later time.


According to CARB D-344-10, the JRSC kit with 6" crank pulley and 4" SC pulley (aka race kit) is CARB exempt. Moss, however, does not market it as such because any boost over 5 psi will push the emissions out of range.

What are the essential differences between the RACE and STREET kits?
There are very little differences. Installation is identical in both scenarios except the STREET kit requires you to solder the powercard to three wires of your ECU harness. Also the RACE kit also uses a ECU reflash developed by Hondata for Jackson, and it also comes with 440 cc fuel injectors instead of the stock 270cc, and a MAP relocator. Hondatas' Kpro programmable ECU is probably the best option and can accomodate boost levels of up to 11 psi with the stock MAP sensor.

Can the STREET kit be upgraded to the RACE kit?
Yes. First you need to purchase a 4.0" pulley. Secondly you need to relocate your MAP sensor. Thirdly you send in your ECU/immobilizer/key to Hondata and get back a reflashed ECU and fuel injectors or upgrade to Kpro. Existing Hondata customers get a price break.

Supercharger pulley diameters (in inches) and boost they will run.
4.4" = 5psi (K20A3)
4.0" = 8psi (K20A3)
3.7-3.8" = 9-10psi (K20A3)

Will the JRSC work with my intake/header/catback?
They should work fine. There are however optimal headers, intakes and exhausts that seem to provide more power than others. For example headers and exhausts, especially can be a problem. With a header you want larger primaries with a larger diameter collector. To get full power, you also want a larger diameter exhaust. There is debate over using anything bigger than 2.5" ID however. Most dynos have shown little to no difference in upgrading to a full 3.0" OD exhaust over the 2.5" ID exhaust. As for a CAI, I'd recommend to use a RSX-S specific CAI as the piping is 3.0" vs the 2.5"-2.8" that the Ep3 CAIs come in.

What SRI or CAI will provide the most power to my JRSC?
Everybody says that a CAI will work much better than a SRI. Hondata also says they have seen between a 0.3 to 0.4 psi of extra boost from using a SRI over a CAI. So with the proper CAI you should expect 5whp to 12whp (depending on supporting modifications) more than from a SRI. Again I recommend the RSX-S CAI as its larger and you'll benefit more from it.


I think the RSX-S CAI issue only applies to the AEM version. The Injen CAI is the same diameter RSX or Si I think; it's pretty big

Is more boost always better?
In one word.....YES.


I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.

Is the JRSC difficult to install?
It all depends on how good of a mechanic you are. The JRSC is still considered a "bolt-on," but there are quite a few tricks and many parts involved. Since I've been around I've heard of DIYs taking anywhere from 4 to 16 hours. Sometimes even longer depending on installation problems. One of the main issues also seems to be getting the belt tightened correctly. This is VERY important and VERY time consuming. While you are doing all of this, it is recommended that you at least get ESMM to limit wheel hop from the added power.

Can I install the JRSC myself?
If you have basic knowledge of lefty loosy and righty tighty and more importantly have the correct tools for the job, you and a friend can install it in one to two days. Make sure to read the instructions carefully and precisely. Then take your time and double and triple check everything you do.


Is there a good instruction manual or DIY on how to install the JRSC?
Jackson Racing now Moss Motors (www.supercharger.com) itself has detailed installation manuals for both the street and race versions that you can obtain online or download in .pdf form.

Do I need new spark plugs after installing the JRSC on my Ep3?
In one word, yes. Jackson Racing and now Moss Motors both recommend that you use plugs one or two steps colder than the stock plugs. Spark plug company NGK recommends one step colder for every 75-100 hp added.

What problems are people who have the JRSC installed running into?
Breaking belts and problems with the original and since redesigned tensioner are by far the biggest concerns. Traction is also an issue. Motor mount inserts are recommended but not needed. They will keep the engine from vibrating or jerking around too much, so to most people they will be important.

So belts are a problem?
Belts and even our tensioner seem to be a problem for our JRSC. It seems to not only be us but all Eaton blower kits in general. Always keep an eye and ear on your serpentines belt. Properly install it and take your time to get it finished correctly. Often you'll also have to frequently adjust the tightenting of the tensioner. Even a belt that seems to be installed just fine may, in fact, be slipping. Some Ep3 owners have been on the same belt for years with no problems, while others have not.

I agree again and would like to stress that there are people who change belts a lot, and there are others, like myself, who have the original gatorback still on the car after tens of thousands of miles. Mel changed it only once or something if I remember correctly

What exactly is the problem then?
Unfortunately it is not as easily explainable as a belt or pulley problem. The problem is the tensioner that Jackson Racing developed and designed to use with our kit. Unforutunately a manual tensioner is what we have to use until someone comes up with or designs a automatic tensioner system.


Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.


http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=101

http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=102

What if my belt breaks?
That's a good idea. tt061880 and kaisertj from ephatch.com suggest to "never forget to always have the "JRSC ROAD KIT" in the car at all time, it consists a 10mm wrench and 17mm, plus a replacement belt." Sometimes you should also have a few other tools including a razor blade and 17mm wrench to make sure you can change your belt on the side of the road.


Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.

Where do I find a new belt and what belt fits my RACE or STREET kit?
You can go to most auto parts stores on pick up the belt you need. The main thing to know is the part number, size and how many ribs you need. Mustclime below states exactly what is needed to help everybody out.


race kit belt "gates" pn# k070622
street kit "dayco" pn# 5070630

The dayco belts look like the goodyear gatorbacks but they are not even close, I am very happy with the preformance of the gates belt.

fyi, the part numbers for these belts have all the info in them....k070622 = 7 rib, 62.2 inch long belt....the 5070630 = 7 rib, 63 inch long belt......at least thats what my parts guy told me...:dontknow:

I'm running a K24 or K20a2 engine swap. What supercharger pulley size am I supposed to run?

Here's a little table that I will add onto later when I check my math a bit. But essentially the 5.8" crank pulley is a K20a2 crank pulley and the 6.3" crank pulley is from a K24. So use the table below to get an idea of how fast your crank pulley spins your supercharger and how many pounds of boost your setup will be seeing.

5.8" crank pulley & 3.8" supercharger pulley = 13,000 rpm (or around 4.8psi)
5.8" crank pulley & 3.6" supercharger pulley = 13,700 rpm (or around 6.1psi)
5.8" crank pulley & 3.3" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)

6.3" crank pulley & 3.8" supercharger pulley = 14,100 rpm (or around 6.9psi)
6.3" crank pulley & 3.6" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)
6.3" crank pulley & 3.3" supercharger pulley = 16,300 rpm (or around 11.1psi)

*Please note that the K20z1/K20a crank pulleys are smaller than even the K20a2 crank pulleys.

I'm sure I'm not going to own my Ep3 for long and want to sell it in a few years. Will the JRSC cause a depreciation in value?
Technically yes. A heavily modifed car will not likely be traded in without hassle from the dealership you are dealing with. People are also hesitant to buy "tuned" cars as they workmanship sometimes seems to be of a shotty or "ghetto" nature so that can also steer people away. A better alternative is to remove your JRSC and reinstall your OEM parts then sell your Ep3, although we all would hate to see/hear that.

Will I like my JRSC? Would I ever want to sell it?
Most who have a JRSC installed seem to really enjoy themselves and the car. Most seem to agree that the JRSC adds the power that they wanted at a reasonable price and has great reliablility for a DD. The few people who don't seem to like their JRSC, seem to be the ones who sell out and buy some type of turbo kit or opt for a K20a or K20a2 swap.
Peronally I think the JRSC adds the power the car lacked in the first place. There will always be room for more potential, but don't expect 400whp and blowing by anything that moves. If you add Skunk2 or Brian Crower cams and a 3.8" pulley, you'll always have a smile on your face with the 250whp that is only a depressed gas pedal away.

kaisertj
06-02-2008, 11:50 AM
What if my belt breaks?
That's a good idea. tt061880 and Conrad from clubrsx.com suggest to "never forget to always have the "JRSC ROAD KIT" in the car at all time, it consists a 12mm wrench and a replacement belt." Sometimes you should also have a few other tools including a razor blade and 13mm wrench to make sure you can change your belt on the side of the road.



Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.

MugenReplica
06-02-2008, 11:55 AM
Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.

Thank you sir. Quoting you into the thread my good man.:mwink:

oogy-boogy
06-02-2008, 12:02 PM
Hey this is a great thread! Thought you might want a heads up, its a 10mm wrench for the tensioner bolt/nut and a 17mm for the tensioner pulley. Would also recommend a long screw driver or small pipe to help fish the belt through the narrow spaces when replacing it.

Not necessary. Just tilt the wheel right, pull up the passenger side splash shield and feed it from the bottom. It'll take you less than 3 minutes.

oogy-boogy
06-02-2008, 12:14 PM
Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.


http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=101

http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=102

kaisertj
06-02-2008, 12:18 PM
Not necessary. Just tilt the wheel right, pull up the passenger side splash shield and feed it from the bottom. It'll take you less than 3 minutes.

Your right, I found it was nice in case you get stuck against the barrier on the side of a freeway and its not really safe or room to be on the wheel like that. Happened one time, no fun at all, the screwdriver saved my life.

oogy-boogy
06-02-2008, 12:31 PM
Your right, I found it was nice in case you get stuck against the barrier on the side of a freeway and its not really safe or room to be on the wheel like that. Happened one time, no fun at all, the screwdriver saved my life.

Did it once on the side of the highway....:mbiggrin:

kaisertj
06-02-2008, 01:03 PM
Did it once on the side of the highway....:mbiggrin:

Haha crazy! I was so nervous, All I could think about was how bad I wanted to fix it before some motorsist plowed into me being dumb. See it all the time on TV it seems.

oogy-boogy
06-02-2008, 01:05 PM
Haha crazy! I was so nervous, All I could think about was how bad I wanted to fix it before some motorsist plowed into me being dumb. See it all the time on TV it seems.

Same boat here. It was down pouring and cold. I've never changed a belt that fast and don't believe I'd ever be able to repeat it.:mbiggrin:

jimmyjames
06-02-2008, 02:26 PM
Wanted to add some comments (see below)


How much do the JRSC kits cost?
My race version with Kpro was about $2500 or something after Moss raised their prices so good prices can be gotten if you try hard enough to find them.

What will my mpg be?
I, as well as a few others have seen increased gas mileage with the supercharger. This is limited to highway driving though. I get about 30-32mpg.

Is the JRSC CARB legal?
According to CARB D-344-10, the JRSC kit with 6" crank pulley and 4" SC pulley (aka race kit) is CARB exempt. Moss, however, does not market it as such because any boost over 5 psi will push the emissions out of range.

What SRI or CAI will provide the most power to my JRSC?
I think the RSX-S CAI issue only applies to the AEM version. The Injen CAI is the same diameter RSX or Si I think; it's pretty big

Is more boost always better?
I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.

So belts are a problem?
I agree again and would like to stress that there are people who change belts a lot, and there are others, like myself, who have the original gatorback still on the car after tens of thousands of miles. Mel changed it only once or something if I remember correctly

MugenReplica
06-02-2008, 02:54 PM
Another option to minimize / eliminate belt issues would be to turn some material off of the OD of the pulley and remove the radius. Find a friend with a hand lathe and you're golden. I had this done and had no issues for over a year.

http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=101[/IMG]
http://ephatch.com/forum/picture.php?albumid=23&pictureid=102[/IMG]


Wanted to add some comments (see below)

Just added these to the original thread guys. Thanks very much for the suggestions!:msmile:

IF YOU HAVE SUGGESTIONS.......PLEASE POST. Thank you!

freddy914
06-02-2008, 03:23 PM
i have ? i was thinkin of superchargin my k24a1 with 11.5 comp.pistons and k20a2 head with stage 2 cams.. would the jrsc race kit be to much boost or should i stick with street..

heinzz10
06-02-2008, 05:23 PM
aside from belt issues, how does the street kit reliability/engine life compare to a stock motor?

MugenReplica
06-02-2008, 07:16 PM
i have ? i was thinkin of superchargin my k24a1 with 11.5 comp.pistons and k20a2 head with stage 2 cams.. would the jrsc race kit be to much boost or should i stick with street..

Good question. If I could answer I would, but its not what I would call a FAQ. Any chance you wanna make your own thread in the BOOST section? I bet we'd get alot more responses and more valuable input as this is more of a unique project. If you start a thread let me know. Thanks man!

oogy-boogy
06-02-2008, 07:35 PM
BTW - Excellent thread John. Feel free to delete my posts as needed.

JJ - Great additions.


John, if you'd like I can add the CAI dimensions for the AEM RSX-S vs EP3.

MugenReplica
06-02-2008, 08:16 PM
BTW - Excellent thread John. Feel free to delete my posts as needed.

JJ - Great additions.


John, if you'd like I can add the CAI dimensions for the AEM RSX-S vs EP3.

Thanks very much Mel.
Yea definitely add it Mel. I would definitely appreciate it.

BlownSi05
07-21-2008, 12:08 PM
aside from belt issues, how does the street kit reliability/engine life compare to a stock motor?

I installed my JRSC Race Kit with K-Pro with 18K miles on the car. The next week it was tuned on the dyno. I now have 70,500 miles on the car and it still runs strong. Keep up the maintenance on the car and it will treat you right. I have yet to have a problem that was caused by the JRSC itself.

jerseyjew
07-21-2008, 08:09 PM
I installed my JRSC Race Kit with K-Pro with 18K miles on the car. The next week it was tuned on the dyno. I now have 70,500 miles on the car and it still runs strong. Keep up the maintenance on the car and it will treat you right. I have yet to have a problem that was caused by the JRSC itself.
I can attest to that! I had about 15k when I first installed the charger and now I am at about 44k and have only changed the belt out about 3 times and ensured regualr maintenance was done (oil, belt tension, visual check, etc.) The charger is quality!

skoolnu
07-21-2008, 08:24 PM
i had the street kit on for a year. put alot of miles on it. I was even delivering pizza on the weekend with it. took it out of state, long drives. I upgraded to 10lbs. Its still not fully tuned, but i have never had a problem with anything. :thumb:

pynikal
08-11-2008, 07:02 PM
so alot of my SC backround is from lightnings, cobras, and roush mustangs. alot of those guys that off thecharger and get them ported like a head. is that something that can be benifit to the JRSC as well. or is it already ported out as far as it can be.

if that is correct is the reason that these guys are seeing gains by doing this because they are modding a "stock" piece??

pynikal
08-12-2008, 01:27 PM
and also, the more boost these make the more heat is produced. is there anyway of intercooling them??

MugenReplica
08-12-2008, 01:35 PM
so alot of my SC backround is from lightnings, cobras, and roush mustangs. alot of those guys that off thecharger and get them ported like a head. is that something that can be benifit to the JRSC as well. or is it already ported out as far as it can be.

if that is correct is the reason that these guys are seeing gains by doing this because they are modding a "stock" piece??

Yes, a supercharger can be ported out for slightly better flow. The gains on our car are minimal however, but either way it is a few whp.

MugenReplica
08-12-2008, 01:46 PM
and also, the more boost these make the more heat is produced. is there anyway of intercooling them??

Yes the more you spin the blades, the more the supercharger will heat up.

There is currently NO way to intercool or aftercool the Ep3 specific JRSC manifold. However, the RSX JRSC manifold has a DIY aftercooler kit for it.

wdsonny, tmartin, and Blacknite have put the most info out for the JRSC Aftercooler DIY kit.....



Items of interest from WDSonny:

Aftercooler Parts list and pointers

“Here is a starting reference point for those interested in doing your own aftercooler setup. Some things are missing as far as parts go, but that will work itself out.

List of parts needed to “make” an aftercooler for the JRSC manifold for the 2002-2006 RSX platform.

92mm Radiator:
http://www.performance-pcs.com/catal...ducts_id=22274
There are two shrouds that wrap around the radiator to be able to mount to a PC. Take these two shrouds off to avoid them coming off into your manifold. I sanded the bare metal portion of the cooling core, primered then painted gloss black, to prevent rusting. Next, you will need a NPT tap and cutting oil. Open up the existing holes to the third cutting thread on the tap.

Heat Exchanger, Pump, etc…:
http://www.frozenboost.com/index.php...fc49604481bec9
Water to Air Intercooler Radiator - 24x12x1 (Type 100)
Water to Air Intercooler Pump and Harness, Bosch Cobra
Water to Air Intercooler Installation Kit (350/600HP)

Fittings:
2 - ”NPT to -8AN (male to female)
2 - -8AN Bulkhead Fittings (male to male)
2 - -8AN Bulkhead Nuts
2 - -8AN Stat-O-Seal Washers
2 - -8AN Forged 45degree Union (female to female)
2 - -8AN to -12AN coupler (male to male)
2 - -12AN to ” Barb fitting (female to male)

Temperature Sensor:
You can use one of two temp sensors; Wells Brand: SU107 / pigtail 235 or SU109 / pigtail 254 from AutoZone / wherever. One sensor is an open element design and the other is closed. You decide which one you want to run.

Bottom Access Plate:
You need to fabricate the plate yourself.

Assembly:
After you cut out the threads on the cooling core (radiator), take the ”NPT fitting, Teflon tape, and thread it in. Teflon tape the sensor and thread it as well. After that, everything should fall into place.”

Items of interest from eric loza:

Glycol mix to be run in the winter time instead of straight steam distilled water.

What is glycol? Courtesy of Wikipedia

“The major use of ethylene glycol is as an antifreeze in, for example, automobiles and personal computers. Due to its low freezing point, it is also used as a deicing fluid for windshields and aircraft. Ethylene glycol is also commonly used in chilled water air conditioning systems that place either the chiller or air handlers outside, or systems that must cool below the freezing temperature of water.”

It freezes in Texas so it’s a good idea to run.

Auxiliary cooling fan(s)

He is considering throwing in an auxiliary cooling fan(s) to act as a "pusher" (lots of stop-and-go freeway driving in the Texas heat) in front of the heat exchanger.

Surge tank

This will give the aftercooler expansion capacity and be self-burping so to speak.

http://www.cantonracingproducts.com/...tang_tank.html

It's for the Cobra and basically splices right into the heat exchanger lines. It is item #80-233.


Items of interest from tmartin:

Bottom access plate

Plan on making a new plate to reincorporate the bottom JRSC bracket to support the blower and maybe lesson the vibrations and therefore help the IAT sensors last longer.

IAT Sensor

Still being worked out but attempting to rubber mount the IAT sensor to lesson the stress it encounters from being on the blower.

Bell intercooler

Looking to use a Bell intercooler and weld support arms which will be used to weld the core to the bottom access plate. The hope is to take any stress off the water line fittings and give more support to the core since it is a rough environment in the blower.

BlackNites JRSC aftercooler Installation.
http://members.cox.net/pwilson247/Home.htm

pynikal
08-12-2008, 03:59 PM
thanks! ithink that i am going to try this when i get mine.

MugenReplica
08-13-2008, 04:22 PM
thanks! ithink that i am going to try this when i get mine.

It won't work on our Ep3 manifold. So don't try it. Nobody even knows if the aftercooler stuff will even fit in our engine bay. It's all a hypothesis at the moment.

pynikal
08-13-2008, 04:55 PM
oh well sh!t.......

MugenReplica
08-14-2008, 07:53 AM
oh well sh!t.......

What I would do is call/email Bell intercoolers and give them dimensions for an aftercooler core with end tanks and housing that would bolt between the charger and the intake manifold (so basically stacking it). Make sure its two pass and it should work really really well. It would be similar to what Prototype Racing is doing, but with a different JRSC manifold

If you need further info, let me know. But I'm confident it would work.

phill
08-14-2008, 08:11 AM
jeff at importbuilders was talking with me about a kit utilizing the new TVS line of superchargers, specifically the 1320, which is a 1.3liter that flows the same as a 2.?liter kenne belle,

aftercooled and custom made kit was like 4 grand for him to produce but he said it would definitly be doable, even tho i still wanted to go non-aftercooled just for space and ease

im really not sure what he has done with these yet, the last i heard he was attempting to use a very large tvs on an eg chassis

k20a.org has tons of info on these engines, its just not everything that fits in an eg swap fits in a cramped ass ep chassis

MugenReplica
08-14-2008, 08:17 AM
jeff at importbuilders was talking with me about a kit utilizing the new TVS line of superchargers, specifically the 1320, which is a 1.3liter that flows the same as a 2.?liter kenne belle,

aftercooled and custom made kit was like 4 grand for him to produce but he said it would definitly be doable, even tho i still wanted to go non-aftercooled just for space and ease

im really not sure what he has done with these yet, the last i heard he was attempting to use a very large tvs on an eg chassis

k20a.org has tons of info on these engines, its just not everything that fits in an eg swap fits in a cramped ass ep chassis

A TVS would be amazing. Twin screw FTW! Then add an aftercooler/intercooler and you have a winning formula. I'm still waiting for RedShifts twin screw kits to come out. I'd love to see one in action.:mtongue:
That price is pretty darn reasonable if he could possibly provide a base tuning map to gauge from.:msmile:

phill
08-14-2008, 09:06 AM
A TVS would be amazing. Twin screw FTW! Then add an aftercooler/intercooler and you have a winning formula. I'm still waiting for RedShifts twin screw kits to come out. I'd love to see one in action.:mtongue:
That price is pretty darn reasonable if he could possibly provide a base tuning map to gauge from.:msmile:

def is a good price for what he was including, also if i remember correctly he was going to try to utilize the stock auto tensioner, but i might be mistaken, seems to me that would be kinda hard to do

speedking604
08-14-2008, 09:12 AM
what size of belt you guys use for 3.8 or 3.7 pulley???

MugenReplica
08-14-2008, 09:18 AM
def is a good price for what he was including, also if i remember correctly he was going to try to utilize the stock auto tensioner, but i might be mistaken, seems to me that would be kinda hard to do

Nope not at all. I have a OEM tensioner set up for JRSC myself.:mbiggrin:

phill
08-14-2008, 10:26 AM
Nope not at all. I have a OEM tensioner set up for JRSC myself.:mbiggrin:

really? thats cool as shit, longer belt?

MugenReplica
08-14-2008, 11:03 AM
really? thats cool as shit, longer belt?

I have a 62.2" belt. Its kinda not accurate for you guys as I'm running a RSX JRSC and have a K20a2 crank pully. So a touch different.

MugenReplica
08-14-2008, 11:06 AM
what size of belt you guys use for 3.8 or 3.7 pulley???

PM Oogy Boogy. I don't have the belt # for the 3.8" or the 3.7" yet. If you do get a part #, please PM me with it. Also PM me with the brand of belt and where to buy it.

oogy-boogy
08-14-2008, 11:12 AM
Sorry John, lost it all in the crash. :mfrown:

speedking604
08-14-2008, 12:01 PM
I have a 62.2" belt. Its kinda not accurate for you guys as I'm running a RSX JRSC and have a K20a2 crank pully. So a touch different.


i have same set up except mine is k20z1 with ep3 crank pulley and i'm running 4.0" supercharger pulley. i'm thinking of upgrading to race kit 3.8 or 3.7 supercharger pulley with 2.5 rsx tensioner. i just wanna know what belt to use before doing the upgrade.

4angrybadgers
08-14-2008, 04:40 PM
i have same set up except mine is k20z1 with ep3 crank pulley and i'm running 4.0" supercharger pulley. i'm thinking of upgrading to race kit 3.8 or 3.7 supercharger pulley with 2.5 rsx tensioner. i just wanna know what belt to use before doing the upgrade.

The 62.2" belt can be used with the 4"/2" combo, and the 3.8"/2.5" blower/tensioner combo. A few people have used the same belt on the 3.8" pulley and the original 2" tensioner, but others ran out of adjustment room.

Get a Gatorback belt. The 62.2" part # is 4070622.

BlownSi05
08-28-2008, 09:06 AM
The 62.2" belt can be used with the 4"/2" combo, and the 3.8"/2.5" blower/tensioner combo. A few people have used the same belt on the 3.8" pulley and the original 2" tensioner, but others ran out of adjustment room.

Get a Gatorback belt. The 62.2" part # is 4070622.

Exactly right here. Just giving another opinion:mbiggrin:

blkep3man
09-01-2008, 10:35 PM
nice post keeps me wanting to save up for my street kit then upgrade to race kit

good to know what your putting in the engine, very good info for sure

ttttrigg3r
04-09-2010, 09:57 PM
Will I pass CA smog with a street kit +AEM CAI and Magnaflow catback?

unlimitedMIKE
06-02-2010, 07:17 AM
i am curious to understand what kind of hell these kits will play on the internals of these engines. i am unfamiliar with the type of internals utilized in these engines and would like to here from those running the kits for awhile. also what accesories would be smart to run with the extra boost? oil catchs, coolers, etc...

appreciate any reponse

-MIKE

BlownSi05
06-02-2010, 07:46 AM
i am curious to understand what kind of hell these kits will play on the internals of these engines. i am unfamiliar with the type of internals utilized in these engines and would like to here from those running the kits for awhile. also what accesories would be smart to run with the extra boost? oil catchs, coolers, etc...

appreciate any reponse

-MIKE

The JRSC is really safe as long as you have the car tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. But like with all forced induction, it is always going to cause more wear and tear over stock. An oil catch can is very much recommended and can help with keeping the valves and intake clean. A lot of people have a ton of miles with the JRSC and have had no issues. I put all my stuff on at 18,000 miles, had the car tuned, and now have 110,000 miles with no isses, other than what I have caused myself. I changed the oil in the S/C at about 80,000 miles on the blower and it is still going strong. As long as you keep up with proper maintenance, it will treat you well.

RoyVegasPinoy
06-02-2010, 10:28 AM
The JRSC is really safe as long as you have the car tuned by someone who knows what they are doing. But like with all forced induction, it is always going to cause more wear and tear over stock. An oil catch can is very much recommended and can help with keeping the valves and intake clean. A lot of people have a ton of miles with the JRSC and have had no issues. I put all my stuff on at 18,000 miles, had the car tuned, and now have 110,000 miles with no isses, other than what I have caused myself. I changed the oil in the S/C at about 80,000 miles on the blower and it is still going strong. As long as you keep up with proper maintenance, it will treat you well.

did you take the sc out when you changed the oil?

BlownSi05
06-02-2010, 11:15 AM
Yes, I pulled it off because I wanted to also replace my PCV valve since I had just rolled the motor over 100K miles.

RoyVegasPinoy
06-02-2010, 04:09 PM
I plan on doing the same thing. Did you get the PCV valve from supercharger.com? Do you know the part number? How much did it cost?

jtrolinger
06-05-2010, 05:23 AM
Jrsc ftw!

jtrolinger
06-05-2010, 05:24 AM
"Will I pass CA smog with a street kit +AEM CAI and Magnaflow catback?"

Your Magnaflow Catback is a direct replacement exhaust and doesn't modify the cat at all & your Blower and CAI have CARB# on them..second CA cops might pull you over for the loud exhaust (I have magnaflow) and give you a fix it ticket or have you visit a referee because they are douches...my advice is jot down the carb number on your blower and CAI and reference them with this website http://www.arb.ca.gov/msprog/aftermkt/devices/amquery.php and print it out and keep it in your car so you can whip it out whenever needed. As for your exhaust I would keep the 2 1/4" pipe and switch back to stock axle back. I've heard it has pretty good flow. I hope this helps guy![/QUOTE]

PAPITUYO326
06-05-2010, 08:51 AM
Finally installed the JRSC on my K24/k20z3 Ep. Running strong!

firmk20
12-06-2010, 04:18 PM
Im running a stock 2007 tsx in my ep and want to supercharge it. Is there a jrsc that bolts direct onto my motor?

04EP3Hatch
12-06-2010, 05:39 PM
Im running a stock 2007 tsx in my ep and want to supercharge it. Is there a jrsc that bolts direct onto my motor?

yea man, the jrsc for the stock ep3 engine will work fine. be prepared to grin ear to ear, you are going to build the setup i want. a k24a2 + jrsc is SEX

vbpracer
12-06-2010, 07:03 PM
Supercharged K24A2>sex

04EP3Hatch
12-06-2010, 07:24 PM
Supercharged K24A2>sex

dude i want a vid of your setup :)

vbpracer
12-06-2010, 08:37 PM
I might be able to do that sometime.

MadLorEP3
01-05-2011, 10:58 PM
thinking about going this route also have a stock 07 k24a2
just need to read up on which SC to roll with or whether to fuck with turbo.
I would basically need to buy the street kit for the ep3, upgrade the injectors to 650 and get a 3.3 supercharger pulley, relocate the MAP sensor
so I can get the carb sticker and still have the race kit, correct?

for the k24 that I can either go with a
6.3 cp and 3.8" supercharger pulley = 14,100 rpm (or around 6.9psi)
6.3 cp 3.6" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)
6.3 cp 3.3" supercharger pulley = 16,300 rpm (or around 11.1psi)

Is the k24a2 cp the same size as the 2008-2010 accord cp?
But then again someone made the statement below:

I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.

So should I not go with a SC pulley less than 3.8?

PAPITUYO326
01-05-2011, 11:01 PM
Selling a full RSX spec JRSC with aftercooler and methanol injection if anyone is interested. Ill post up a thread detailing the goods. had to go with the RSX JRSC to fit the aftercooler core.

MadLorEP3
01-06-2011, 12:30 AM
Selling a full RSX spec JRSC with aftercooler and methanol injection if anyone is interested. Ill post up a thread detailing the goods. had to go with the RSX JRSC to fit the aftercooler core.

Can you tell me more about this. Im in the market for a SC, just not sure which one rotrex or jrsc?Just starting to read a little about them today. So what exactly does the aftercooler and methanol injection? Do I still use 91 high octane gas? I will have to mod the rsx jrsc to fit it onto my ep right? Can you post or pm me some pics. Why you selling? Whats the mileage on the JRSC how long do they usually last? tnx

03Si757
01-06-2011, 06:19 PM
selling a full rsx spec jrsc with aftercooler and methanol injection if anyone is interested. Ill post up a thread detailing the goods. Had to go with the rsx jrsc to fit the aftercooler core.

ohhh price!!! Pm me asap!

PAPITUYO326
01-06-2011, 06:34 PM
Can you tell me more about this. Im in the market for a SC, just not sure which one rotrex or jrsc?Just starting to read a little about them today. So what exactly does the aftercooler and methanol injection? Do I still use 91 high octane gas? I will have to mod the rsx jrsc to fit it onto my ep right? Can you post or pm me some pics. Why you selling? Whats the mileage on the JRSC how long do they usually last? tnx

The aftercooler is essentially a system comprised of two heat exchangers, a pump, a reservoir, and a coolant. One of the heat exchangers is mounted (welded) on a plate on the bottom of the RSX JRSC access plate. The other is mounted in front of the car much like an intercoolers heat exchanger. The hot JRSC air is cooled by the heat exchanger within the JRSC. The water flows constantly through the JRSC's heat exchanger, through the pump, and through the front mounted heat exchanger. This keeps the coolant nice and cool.

JRSC Heat Exchanger
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc221/brenth2k/DSC00252-3.jpg

Mounted on the JRSC
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc221/brenth2k/SNC00027.jpg

Methanol Injection is just like what it sounds. You have a trunk mounted reservoir, a pump, some lines, and an orifice (nozzle). You fill the trunk's reservoir with some methanol/water mix and shoot it directly into the intake. This allows for cooler intake temperatures and gains with tuning. Usually 20-40whp and 10-20wtq on SC'd A2s and K24s. I believe a membere here has a tuned A3 on methanol injection hovering at just a littler over 270 to the wheels.

Together they are good for about 50-70 hp on tuned A2s and K24 motors. Id expect close to 300-310 on a properly tuned A3 with good supporting mods.

04EP3Hatch
01-06-2011, 07:25 PM
thinking about going this route also have a stock 07 k24a2
just need to read up on which SC to roll with or whether to fuck with turbo.
I would basically need to buy the street kit for the ep3, upgrade the injectors to 650 and get a 3.3 supercharger pulley, relocate the MAP sensor
so I can get the carb sticker and still have the race kit, correct?

for the k24 that I can either go with a
6.3 cp and 3.8" supercharger pulley = 14,100 rpm (or around 6.9psi)
6.3 cp 3.6" supercharger pulley = 14,900 rpm (or around 8.5psi)
6.3 cp 3.3" supercharger pulley = 16,300 rpm (or around 11.1psi)

Is the k24a2 cp the same size as the 2008-2010 accord cp?
But then again someone made the statement below:

I agree but a word of caution with the JRSC...Since it gets hotter the more boost you try to make, the psi levels drop due to the increased air temperature. There is a point where the heat from the charger is heating up the air so much that the smaller pulley, installed specifically to make more boost, is useless. Because of this, a 3.8" pulley is typically the smallest viable pulley you can run. A 3.7" is pushing it and usually seems to be used solely for race days.

So should I not go with a SC pulley less than 3.8?

your calculations are off a little bit. at 7700 rpms i am making 10.9psi even and i have a 6.3" crank pulley and a 3.8" blower pulley. if you decide to run any smaller of a pulley on the blower with a 6.3" crank pulley you risk running the chance of overspinning the blower and you do not want to do that as the clearance between the rotors spinning twice the engine speed is about .005" so there is barely any room for error. on a k24a2 the pulley setup i am running would net you some awesome numbers and be reliable. its all in the tune, yes the IAT's are going to skyrocket if you dont have a cooling system like an aftercooler or a methanol kit. id recommend running an aquamist kit over an aftercooler. it takes injector pulse width measurments, TPS and load measurments and injects with throttle, normal driving (if needed) and full throttle driving. they are very popular in the evo/sti community and a freind of mine has one, and it really works. comes with a gauge that shows exactly what the kit is doing and how much its injecting. if i had the money it would have been installed in my car. its around 500$, a lot cheaper than the aftercooler and a lot less complicated.

PAPITUYO326
01-06-2011, 08:47 PM
Both are pretty neat setups. Meth Injection is more effective from a $/hp standpoint in the shortrun, but you do need to keep that tank filled. Tuning with an aftercooler is a good bit quicker than a methanol setup though and the overall setup is easy as pie. The only issue with the current crop of aftercoolers is that you CANNOT fit one on the EP3 JRSC manifold. You have to go to an RSX setup, which does require some homework. Not a huge deal, but something to think about. The best daily SC setup is a combo of both. I loved my SC'd K24/K20Z3. Just got too good of a deal on something else that I couldn't pass it up. :mbiggrin:

I wouldn't be too concerned about overspinning the Eaton Blower. There is quite a bit of margin on these things. It do however agree it is preferable to use add ons such as meth injection and the aftercooler vs. increasing compressor revs to achieve more than 10psi.

MadLorEP3
01-07-2011, 01:20 AM
The aftercooler is essentially a system comprised of two heat exchangers, a pump, a reservoir, and a coolant. One of the heat exchangers is mounted (welded) on a plate on the bottom of the RSX JRSC access plate. The other is mounted in front of the car much like an intercoolers heat exchanger. The hot JRSC air is cooled by the heat exchanger within the JRSC. The water flows constantly through the JRSC's heat exchanger, through the pump, and through the front mounted heat exchanger. This keeps the coolant nice and cool.

JRSC Heat Exchanger
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc221/brenth2k/DSC00252-3.jpg

Mounted on the JRSC
http://i218.photobucket.com/albums/cc221/brenth2k/SNC00027.jpg

Methanol Injection is just like what it sounds. You have a trunk mounted reservoir, a pump, some lines, and an orifice (nozzle). You fill the trunk's reservoir with some methanol/water mix and shoot it directly into the intake. This allows for cooler intake temperatures and gains with tuning. Usually 20-40whp and 10-20wtq on SC'd A2s and K24s. I believe a membere here has a tuned A3 on methanol injection hovering at just a littler over 270 to the wheels.

Together they are good for about 50-70 hp on tuned A2s and K24 motors. Id expect close to 300-310 on a properly tuned A3 with good supporting mods.

So will I still be able to use just regular high octane gas? I think so but just making sure.
Who makes this meth injection kit and aftercooler or is it custom.
What does installation entail, any fabrication involved? Any cutting of bumper of radiator support etc?
what does your kit include,is it complete? whats the mileage on the sc?
what kind of numbers can i expect on a properly tuned k24a2?
how much you selling for?

MadLorEP3
01-07-2011, 01:31 AM
your calculations are off a little bit. at 7700 rpms i am making 10.9psi even and i have a 6.3" crank pulley and a 3.8" blower pulley. if you decide to run any smaller of a pulley on the blower with a 6.3" crank pulley you risk running the chance of overspinning the blower and you do not want to do that as the clearance between the rotors spinning twice the engine speed is about .005" so there is barely any room for error. on a k24a2 the pulley setup i am running would net you some awesome numbers and be reliable. its all in the tune, yes the IAT's are going to skyrocket if you dont have a cooling system like an aftercooler or a methanol kit. id recommend running an aquamist kit over an aftercooler. it takes injector pulse width measurments, TPS and load measurments and injects with throttle, normal driving (if needed) and full throttle driving. they are very popular in the evo/sti community and a freind of mine has one, and it really works. comes with a gauge that shows exactly what the kit is doing and how much its injecting. if i had the money it would have been installed in my car. its around 500$, a lot cheaper than the aftercooler and a lot less complicated.

so your saying its better to get this aquamist rather than an aftercooler and that the aquamist works with the methanol injection kit or is the aquamist an expensive version of the methanol injection kit

04EP3Hatch
01-07-2011, 05:13 AM
so your saying its better to get this aquamist rather than an aftercooler and that the aquamist works with the methanol injection kit or is the aquamist an expensive version of the methanol injection kit

http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html

it replaces the aftercooler all together. i would much rather run a quality kit like this over an after cooler, with an aftercooler, what happens if you get a core leak? all that water goes right into the engine while being pressurized from the blower. the aquamist kit has a fail safe in case of a failure of the pump or circuitry. i have the snow performance kit in mine and kpro is activating it like a nitrous kit, but if i had this kit, it would be functioning all the time, whenever the key is on. suppying the car with the meth as needed

MadLorEP3
01-07-2011, 04:00 PM
http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html

it replaces the aftercooler all together. i would much rather run a quality kit like this over an after cooler, with an aftercooler, what happens if you get a core leak? all that water goes right into the engine while being pressurized from the blower. the aquamist kit has a fail safe in case of a failure of the pump or circuitry. i have the snow performance kit in mine and kpro is activating it like a nitrous kit, but if i had this kit, it would be functioning all the time, whenever the key is on. suppying the car with the meth as needed

so basically all i would need is a jrsc and this aquamist kit
and my sc will be cooled as well?

PAPITUYO326
01-07-2011, 04:54 PM
So will I still be able to use just regular high octane gas? I think so but just making sure.
Who makes this meth injection kit and aftercooler or is it custom.
What does installation entail, any fabrication involved? Any cutting of bumper of radiator support etc?
what does your kit include,is it complete? whats the mileage on the sc?
what kind of numbers can i expect on a properly tuned k24a2?
how much you selling for?

Regular Gas
The aftercooler Kit is a part of a batch of custom units made by a few members on CRSX.
No fabrication other than simply mounting things.

I'll pm you info on the SC, this isn't the right avenue to sell stuff or talk details.

You can expect upwards of 330 whp on a properly tuned K24A2 with an aftercooler and some sort of Meth Injection.


http://www.aquamist.co.uk/cp/cp1.html

it replaces the aftercooler all together. i would much rather run a quality kit like this over an after cooler, with an aftercooler, what happens if you get a core leak? all that water goes right into the engine while being pressurized from the blower. the aquamist kit has a fail safe in case of a failure of the pump or circuitry. i have the snow performance kit in mine and kpro is activating it like a nitrous kit, but if i had this kit, it would be functioning all the time, whenever the key is on. suppying the car with the meth as needed

How would you get a core leak from a fully enclosed, pressure tested vessel? Is the metal going to disintegrate? Remember it is FULLY enclosed in the manifold, welded to the access plate and away from any loose parts. The only way it could feasibly fail or rupture is if the blower burst from centrifugals and impacted the core. Highly unlikely. Both systems have their benefits. Aquamist is a VERY nice system, but it still has the main drawback of meth injection which is the need for refills.

Let's take a track day example:

Assume relatively mild rate of 10 GPH (most use 13+ on serious K setups) during full throttle operation. Lets say you are running on a road course that allows 50% full throttle on a fast lap. You race for about 1.5 hours on said track day

That's 7.5 gallons of meth/water mixture you have to run through. Even racing 45 mins is still over 3 gallons of meth. Sure you can refill during off time, but what about in between?

The aftercooler meanwhile is always working. Not knocking Meth injection because I too have a kit, but I would aftercool before I would meth inject. Much less maintenance.

04EP3Hatch
01-07-2011, 09:12 PM
so basically all i would need is a jrsc and this aquamist kit
and my sc will be cooled as well?

yes the system would be cooled off as well as octane increased from the methanol. also injecting water/meth has a steamcleaning effect on engines, over time of use it slowly breaks down carbon deposits on the intake valve's and piston tops and leaves a clean engine.


Regular Gas
The aftercooler Kit is a part of a batch of custom units made by a few members on CRSX.
No fabrication other than simply mounting things.

I'll pm you info on the SC, this isn't the right avenue to sell stuff or talk details.

You can expect upwards of 330 whp on a properly tuned K24A2 with an aftercooler and some sort of Meth Injection.



How would you get a core leak from a fully enclosed, pressure tested vessel? Is the metal going to disintegrate? Remember it is FULLY enclosed in the manifold, welded to the access plate and away from any loose parts. The only way it could feasibly fail or rupture is if the blower burst from centrifugals and impacted the core. Highly unlikely. Both systems have their benefits. Aquamist is a VERY nice system, but it still has the main drawback of meth injection which is the need for refills.

Let's take a track day example:

Assume relatively mild rate of 10 GPH (most use 13+ on serious K setups) during full throttle operation. Lets say you are running on a road course that allows 50% full throttle on a fast lap. You race for about 1.5 hours on said track day

That's 7.5 gallons of meth/water mixture you have to run through. Even racing 45 mins is still over 3 gallons of meth. Sure you can refill during off time, but what about in between?

The aftercooler meanwhile is always working. Not knocking Meth injection because I too have a kit, but I would aftercool before I would meth inject. Much less maintenance.

how do radiators or heater cores leak? they are pressure tested and sealed units. suppose there is an airpocket in the weld on the aluminum that creates a weak point and over time the pressure built up in the manifold vs pressure in the core causes a leak? its all very possible and the thought of it made me lean to methanol more-so than the aftercooler. and the aquamist kit is simpler, you dont need to add a second condensor for the fluid, the pump in the fender well, a resevoir where ever there's room, then run all the lines. both kits have advantages and disadvanteges. you can make more power on the aquamist kit, as it doesnt impeed flow within the manifold, and the fact it cools the IAT's way down, and the methanol increases octane for increased timing and leaner AFR's. my IAT's with the meth kit activated on only a 10gph nozzle where mid 70's. now granted when my setup gets more advanced, as will my jetting, i will need to increase to about 14gph

MadLorEP3
01-08-2011, 12:37 AM
Damn this is some technical shit thats is way above my big head with small brain.

So basically the jrsc needs to be cooled somehow. You can either cool it with:
1) an aftercooler kit + the methanol/water injection kit

OR

2) an aquamist kit which IS a type of methanol/water injection kit


what does GPH stand for? And where do you buy this water/methanol mixture?

MadLorEP3
01-08-2011, 12:45 AM
finally made it over to the aquamist site

and it seems that there will be less work involved if i get this kit since its plug and play and comes with everything I need
pretty cheap as well, only $650 for the hsf3

now just gotta find jrsc

PAPITUYO326
01-08-2011, 01:14 AM
Radiators and Heater cores are exposed to the elements, leading to loads and impacts. All those bent fins you see in daily driven cores are due to outside effects. Even if you had a faulty weld, there is NO LOAD on the aftercooler within the manifold. The pressure in the manifold will not cause the core to buckle or fail. We are talking about less than a 14psi delta between the manifold and the core. The only real load you might see is G loads on the brackets from heavy acceleration. I can't speak for all cores, but the ones commissioned by JustinC and Erik Loza are of great workmanship. I've personally used one and bought another for a friend.

I am not knocking meth, but I don't like to see fear mongering on the integrity of the cores.

PAPITUYO326
01-08-2011, 01:20 AM
Damn this is some technical shit thats is way above my big head with small brain.

So basically the jrsc needs to be cooled somehow. You can either cool it with:
1) an aftercooler kit + the methanol/water injection kit
2) an aquamist kit which IS a type of methanol/water injection kit
what does GPH stand for? And where do you buy this water/methanol mixture?

There are more options than what myself and 04ep3hatch are advocating. AIS, Snow Performance, Cooling Mist, and Aquamist are all reputable Meth kits. Aquamist has a nice progressive controller which allows for modulation of the flow by integrating it with sensors from the native car. It's an option that most other kits do no offer. Usually you have it working like Nitrous, it's either flowing a constant rate or its not. The threshold for on operation is usually set very close to full throttle to help preserve injection for needed situations.

There aren't too many aftercooling options. A couple of guys on CRSX made their own. Joe at Prototype racing made a couple for some race teams a few years back, but those are long gone. You'll still see the Loza/JustinC cores pop up from now and then but they require an RSX JRSC. The RSX JRSC has a better flowing manifold, but it's fitment within the EP engine bay is not as nice as the native EP kit.

GPH is Gallons per Hour. You can buy methanol at local shops and mix it with water at your convenience.

You seem pretty green to the SC game. Check out clubrsx's SC section and read their stickies. Lot's of good info on everything from tuning, coolers, and alcohol injection.

Draw7Seven
01-08-2011, 01:31 AM
To dumb down the conversation, I was just going to confirm (and I didn't read pages 2-4) that the Injen CAI SP-1576 is a 3" piping specific to the EP3 engine bay. I believe even Fujita's CAI is 3", AEM just never updated their product... Injen originally made a "1st gen" CAI for the EP3 that had smaller piping before coming up with a better one.

MadLorEP3
01-08-2011, 01:42 AM
There are more options than what myself and 04ep3hatch are advocating. AIS, Snow Performance, Cooling Mist, and Aquamist are all reputable Meth kits. Aquamist has a nice progressive controller which allows for modulation of the flow by integrating it with sensors from the native car. It's an option that most other kits do no offer. Usually you have it working like Nitrous, it's either flowing a constant rate or its not. The threshold for on operation is usually set very close to full throttle to help preserve injection for needed situations.

There aren't too many aftercooling options. A couple of guys on CRSX made their own. Joe at Prototype racing made a couple for some race teams a few years back, but those are long gone. You'll still see the Loza/JustinC cores pop up from now and then but they require an RSX JRSC. The RSX JRSC has a better flowing manifold, but it's fitment within the EP engine bay is not as nice as the native EP kit.

GPH is Gallons per Hour. You can buy methanol at local shops and mix it with water at your convenience.

You seem pretty green to the SC game. Check out clubrsx's SC section and read their stickies. Lot's of good info on everything from tuning, coolers, and alcohol injection.

than you sir
I appreciate the clarification
by the way, in your old set up, where you running both an aftercooler and a water/meth kit?

04EP3Hatch
01-08-2011, 05:16 AM
Radiators and Heater cores are exposed to the elements, leading to loads and impacts. All those bent fins you see in daily driven cores are due to outside effects. Even if you had a faulty weld, there is NO LOAD on the aftercooler within the manifold. The pressure in the manifold will not cause the core to buckle or fail. We are talking about less than a 14psi delta between the manifold and the core. The only real load you might see is G loads on the brackets from heavy acceleration. I can't speak for all cores, but the ones commissioned by JustinC and Erik Loza are of great workmanship. I've personally used one and bought another for a friend.

I am not knocking meth, but I don't like to see fear mongering on the integrity of the cores.

i know the odd's against one failing are highly unlikely its just something that would always be on my mind though, i have heard great things about them from the guys on CRSX, jmercado makes them for the CT and the JRSC right?

PAPITUYO326
01-08-2011, 11:42 AM
Yep he makes some for both the JRSC and the CT units.

dyeownsme
05-17-2011, 09:14 PM
OP mentions
There are however optimal headers, intakes and exhausts that seem to provide more power than others.

any input on an "optimal" set-up that maintains a relatively quite sound?

i.e. ; ________ header + rsx-s midpipe + stock axle back (?)

BlownSi05
05-18-2011, 10:20 AM
OP mentions

any input on an "optimal" set-up that maintains a relatively quite sound?

i.e. ; ________ header + rsx-s midpipe + stock axle back (?)

I ran a Megan RSX-S shorty, Megan RSX-S Resonated test pipe, and a CTR spec Fujitsubo RM-01a cat-back when I had my EP (my car in the vid below).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=l2wSr9djK1Y

It was fairly quite with almost no drone on the hwy, but it would still give you a little bit of great noise when going WOT. This header/testpipe setup dynoed 8whp/6wtq lower than with the race header, which was stupid loud.

gamma6
10-28-2011, 11:06 AM
If using a hondata intake manifold gasket, will i need longer bolts? It seems thicker than stock so i assume less thread engagement...

si4life
10-28-2011, 12:44 PM
yes. This would be a good idea.

gamma6
10-28-2011, 12:56 PM
would OR is??? imma install soon but want everything to be right lol
im afraid of not enough threads going in and the bolt coming off while im driving

1fasthb
03-16-2013, 02:02 AM
Anyone making 300 who yet with a supercharged a3? Didn't read all the pages tho to much meth talk ;) also are they not making these kits anymore can't find any for sale on websites

Canuck Civic
03-16-2013, 12:27 PM
Anyone making 300 who yet with a supercharged a3? Didn't read all the pages tho to much meth talk ;) also are they not making these kits anymore can't find any for sale on websites

I never dynoed yet but I've run many 12.9's with my supercharged a3. Would be over 300 at the flywheel, but probably less at the wheels. After this summer the k24a2 is going in so hoping I can get to a dyno before then.

gtecd20
03-16-2013, 12:59 PM
whats your setup?

Canuck Civic
03-16-2013, 09:42 PM
whats your setup?

a3 with vtec killers, RSX JRSC with aftercooler, and header with 3" exhaust. The 12.9's were with a 3.4" pulley and K24 crank pulley.

gtecd20
03-17-2013, 10:18 AM
did you mod you engine bay to fit the aftercooler?

Canuck Civic
03-17-2013, 03:27 PM
did you mod you engine bay to fit the aftercooler?

You need the RSX manifold for an aftercooler, but no my engine bay is fully intact with the aftercooler. Rad support is fully intact. The heat exchanger sits in front of the A/C condenser and is bolted on like a FMIC would. The pump for the aftercooler is mounted on the driver side right beside the filter for the CAI.

The only time you would have to mod your engine bay is if you put like a 4" inch pulley on as this would hit the support for the headlight.

1fasthb
03-20-2013, 10:20 PM
a3 with vtec killers, RSX JRSC with aftercooler, and header with 3" exhaust. The 12.9's were with a 3.4" pulley and K24 crank pulley.
Why all is needed for the vtek killer set up? A2 cams and a2 rockers? Pm me if possible