Bad brake bleeders?

[siver-SI]

Ok I am having a problem that I never had with a car I am bleeding my brakes more oftem to keep them fresh after a few autocross events. I am just doing a small bleed to get old fluid out of the caliper. What I am having a problem with though is mostly my back caliper is that I am getting a lot of air in the fluid. This is what gets to me all of a sudden I will have a clear bleeder line no air and then I turn the bleeder and I get a ton of air in the bleeder line. I am using a vacuum pump since it is just a 1 mad job. I am wondering think this is a bad bleeder screw? I do not have it open that much incase you are wondering.

[HondaFreak]

If it was a bleeder screw issue, I think you would see fluid somewhere in that area. Are you talking about the passenger rear?
If so that is the caliper I have a hard time with as well. I believe it's the farthest from the master cylinder. I notice when I did it last I had to pump it 3 times as much as the other calipers. I have not used any kind of pressure bleeder. If that is the only caliper that's not working right, you could try doing that on caliper manually.

On a side note, I am not sure what brake fluid your using. I am a fan of ATE Super Blue. It's relatively cheap ($12 or so) and it's really good DOT 4. They make the same stuff in amber so you know your getting all the old fluid out at flushes. So you just go between blue and amber. I also don't think you need to change your fluid that often. I would say only as often as you change pads or rotors. Good luck!

Christian

[oldskoofame]

If it was a bleeder screw issue, I think you would see fluid somewhere in that area. Are you talking about the passenger rear?
If so that is the caliper I have a hard time with as well. I believe it's the farthest from the master cylinder. I notice when I did it last I had to pump it 3 times as much as the other calipers. I have not used any kind of pressure bleeder. If that is the only caliper that's not working right, you could try doing that on caliper manually.

On a side note, I am not sure what brake fluid your using. I am a fan of ATE Super Blue. It's relatively cheap ($12 or so) and it's really good DOT 4. They make the same stuff in amber so you know your getting all the old fluid out at flushes. So you just go between blue and amber. I also don't think you need to change your fluid that often. I would say only as often as you change pads or rotors. Good luck!

Christian

I've done product distributions on ATE brake fluids. I haven't even used them and by researching their information it seems good. The gold version being "used in conjunction" with the ATE normal (Blue) is just a way to make sure the customers use their own products to test these simple things.

to the thread starter, who is doing the brake pedal pumping?

[na14yu]

to the thread starter, who is doing the brake pedal pumping?

The OP said he was using a vacuum pump and it's a one-man job :mbiggrin:

I'm not exactly sure what the OP's problem is, but I had something similar to this happen to me once when using a one-person brake bleeder tool that was hooked up to a air compressor.

On two calipers (forgot which ones, probably fronts), I would get a million bubbles coming out when I squeezed the trigger on the air bleeder. Something didn't seem right, so after a bit of frustration I ended up just putting everything back together and driving the car around and testing the brakes. It was fine and I even did a track day like that.

I never figured out what was wrong but I never did use that same bleeder again.

[siver-SI]

Who knows maybe it is the bleeder. I have a old pump maybe it is starting go out. O well get new and see if that helps.

[dichotomous]

could be just not sealing perfectly around the nipple and pulling air from around the nipple instead of in the lines.

[na14yu]

could be just not sealing perfectly around the nipple and pulling air from around the nipple instead of in the lines.

Exactly. I'm pretty sure that's what happened with mine.

[Zzyzx]

I'd say you are probably pulling air past the threads on the bleeder....Vacuum setups can do this, so don't crack it as much and you'll probably fix your problem.

[siver-SI]

Ok thanks,

Well get a new clear bleeder line first and crack it a little less and the next time I bleed them I will see if that works. It is just weird it is just the right rear.