DIY: How did you remove your mid-pipe??

[EggShellSi]

Ive been trying to remove my mid-pipe, and those damn screws wont seem to budge:rant: I have one loose, but im also wondering how you guys reached the nut on the top side?? I cant get any leverage to remove it. I called a local muffler shop just to see what they would charge, and the guy wanted $80 bucks just to bolt up my damn exhaust!! Hes out of his :censored: mind.

Any help will be much appreciated.:yo:

[robhep3]

Ive been trying to remove my mid-pipe, and those damn screws wont seem to budge:rant: I have one loose, but im also wondering how you guys reached the nut on the top side?? I cant get any leverage to remove it. I called a local muffler shop just to see what they would charge, and the guy wanted $80 bucks just to bolt up my damn exhaust!! Hes out of his :censored: mind.

Any help will be much appreciated.:yo:

So your time, energy and frustration is worth less than the $80 an hour he wants to get yr exhaust put on FOR you?

[EggShellSi]

So your time, energy and frustration is worth less than the $80 an hour he wants to get yr exhaust put on FOR you?

Well, i figure all they have to do, is lift it up, use there "Gun" (Whatever its called) and remove it, and put on the new one. Shouldnt take no more than 20 minutes with their tools. I could be wrong tho.

But, anyways id rather do it myself. Im just wondering how some of the people on here reached the nut on the top side of the mid-pipe next to the cat.

[NrGiNnY14]

get pb blaster, its 10 times better then wd-40. spray the sh!t out of the bolts and let it soak for 10 minutes. then take the exhaust off the hangers and the exhaust will sit low enough to get good leverage for the top bolt. good luck, i have done 5 exhausts already so i'm used to the frustration, especially living in the northeast doesn't help with the weather killing the bolts

[thechromecoyote]

PB blast the spring bolts attaching the header to the cat, remove them and then remove the spring bolts attaching the midpipe to the axleback.

Remove the whole Cat + midpipe assembly at once and work on the bolts when its off the car.

This will save you hours of frustration and akward angles.

EDIT: and remember to replace all the bolts when you are done with anti-seize lube. Any exhaust bolt should be considered tossable.

[!@#$%]

Do NOT undo the spring bolts from the header to the cat. This is not necessary for removal of only the midpipe.

Head up to your local parts store and buy a cheap 3/8" drive swivel socket extension and maybe a 3 or 6 inch (3/8") drive straight extension if you don't have it.

I think I paid a dollar for this one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/hondata7700/swivel.jpg

[goy091]

to get to the top bolts on the midpipe by the cat first i always unbolt the rear section by the muffler. that way the midpipe can swing down and you and you can reach the top bolt. also it helps to have the car pretty far up off the ground so the midpipe can hang down farther

that along with PB blast and a breaker bar. works really well

[EggShellSi]

Thanks for the replies you guys!! I didn't need to remove the cat after all, i just bought the socket extender, PB blast. I had the car slanted on 2 wheels to get under there, put some elbow grease into it, and walaa. Took me about an hour, and saved myself $80 bucks too. Thanks Ephatch :grouphug:

Next obstacle, Rear sway, and tie bar.:mbiggrin:

[headaike]

rear sway was a bitch to replace:mtongue:, bolts were rusted so I got my mechanic to do it for me. Save your time and energy and dont bother doing it if the bolts are rusted unless you want to cut off the bolts or try using PB blaster


Thanks for the replies you guys!! I didn't need to remove the cat after all, i just bought the socket extender, PB blast. I had the car slanted on 2 wheels to get under there, put some elbow grease into it, and walaa. Took me about an hour, and saved myself $80 bucks too. Thanks Ephatch :grouphug:

Next obstacle, Rear sway, and tie bar.:mbiggrin:

[shanewdude]

Totally read everything on hear when you search for "swaybar" or "endlinks". They are tough. If you have new endlinks, then just cut the old ones off if you need to! Or, start now cleaning the threads with PB blaster and a wire brush... two weeks of that might get them clean enough to avoid problems!

[llaprad1]

$80 can buy you a cheap Harbor Freight impact wrench and the right sockets/swivels.. And when your done you still got an impact wrench for other stuff like struts and lugnuts.

[EggShellSi]

Well i will be replacing the endlinks with new ones, so if all else fails, ill cut them.
I also read somewhere that its a good idea to have a rear tie bar when installing a thicker reay sway (dc5-r). I wonder how true that is. I just bought one in the classifieds just in case. If i dont need it, then at least ill have some rear bling bling :mbiggrin: