View Full Version : JRSC belt replacement DIY

06-25-2008, 07:55 PM
Ok well I made a sticky before the site crashed, so I figured I would just go ahead and do it again to benefit all the JRSC peeps!

First you should go ahead and jack up the passenger side of the car and remove the wheel! If you loosen the lug nuts before jacking the car up it makes life a lot easier!

Next step is remove the lower splash guard wheel well liner by removing the pull tabs and sliding the guard out of the way.

Then loosen the 10mm lock nut on the tensioner bolt and back the tensioner bolt all the way out to the top as shown.

Next step is to loosen the 17mm goldish bolt that holds the actual tensioner pulley to the tensioner assembly. I use a standard box ended wrench that has a slight angle at the end.

Here is a shot of the old belt and new belt side by side. The new belt is a little tight when it first goes on, so it might take a little bit of elbow grease to work it on.

Now is time to start rerouting the new belt. If you search you should be able to find a diagram of the correct routing. Your best bet will be to just pay attention to the way the old belt was routed. I usually work the belt from the bottom up and use a long pair of needle nose pliers to pull it up through.

Here is a shot of the belt all lined up from the top.

Once you have the belt lined up, you can go ahead and start to apply tension. With the 17mm bolt still loose you need to start threading the 10mm bolt in. The image provided shows how far down I put the 10mm bolt when running the 4" boost pulley and 62.2" gatorback belt. Once you have the correct tension you need to tighten the 10mm locknut. DO NOT TIGHTEN TO THE 10mm bolt to 45 ft/lbs! I REPEAT! THE TENSION LISTED IS MEANT FOR BELT TENSION, NOT BOLT TENSION! Not following this will most likely result in breaking off the 10mm bolt in the housing and a lot of swearing to follow. The best way to check belt tension is to reach your hand down to the longest stretch of belt and feel it with your hand. You should be able to slightly twist the belt back and forth. After this has all been accomplished the last thing is to tighten the 17mm nut that holds the pulley to about 30-40 ft/lbs. You can not fit a Tq wrench in there so just ballpark it.

Here is a shot from the bottom of the belt tightened before the splash guard is back on.

Make sure you put the splash guard back in, install the wheel and properly Tq the lug nuts and you will be on your way. You may or may not need to retighten your belt after about 150 miles.

Have fun and boost happy!

06-26-2008, 08:07 AM
Thanks for posting this up again Joey. Can we pls sticky this?

06-26-2008, 08:23 AM
Thanks for the info, consider it stuck.