monster ep street setup

[shibiku2]

Hi guys, I have a 04 with the hfp setup. Even with the minor drop I can feel the suspension geometry difference and bumpsteer.

I am used to a slammed em1 so help me out.

If you had enough money what suspension parts would you buy to lower the car, correct the lowered geometry?

I have heard that the type-r has a different rear setup and also that running double the spring rate in the rear versus the front.

The car is a DD but I want it to be confident on the road (less body-roll and more direct steering). I;m considering a neuspeed x-brace and D2 rear v brace to stiffen the steering feel, possibly the j's fender braces. In it's slightly lowered state it rides horribly over bumps and uneven pavement. I am using the 'slighty agressive' DD alignment which helps quite a bit.

Parts Considering:
Hotschkis f/r adj bars
Progress 24mm rear
roll center adj
BC N+
Progress Coil-overs
Tein Flex


Planning to do tires, brakes eventually and the JRSC-S kit.

[sittinlow]

ohlins.............

[Princess]

Gut your interior to the bone. See if that helps.

HFP ride is pretty close to stock. Should be really smooth. Maybe your shocks need replacing or maybe it's time for a different car that feels right to you. Maybe the springs are old and tired.

Progress rear sway will help the rear feel tight. Maybe a camber kit and get your car alignment done.

Good luck.

[mustclime]

If you have the hfp suspension, that is a great set up. Because of our suspension design, dropping the ep more than a inch kills the handleing. Once the ft LCA's get past flat( one inch drop), cornering loads push the suspension through its travel and you end up ridding on your bump stops through turns.....I am sure there will be a couple people telling you that they have a 1 1/2-2 inch drop and their car rails the turns....trust me, take them to a autoX and watch their cars through the turns. The front suspension will just tuck under and they will have a bunch of understeer.:nerd:

[ep_hatcher_510]

A larger sway bar in the rear will really help the back to whip around faster, and/or get a smaller (EM2) sway bar in the front to make more oversteer.

If going lower def. get some roll center adjusters, and some coilovers out there (megan, progress i think) has the arms to fix the tie rod angle, or else get the steering bracket or inverted ends to fix the tie rods so it dont turn into a V when u go lower.

[shibiku2]

Thanks Guys good info.

I am going to pick-up front and rear camber kits. Progress 24mm rear sway and try these out. Once I move into my new place ill gut her rear seats etc.

You guys think the Neuspeed catback will clear the progress 24mm?

Thanks,
Brian

[Soon2beEP3]

Unless you plan to lower past your roll center the adjusters shouldnt be necessary. Id recomend stiffening up the suspension with thicker sways and a higher spring rate. Ive also heard that having a lower spring rate in front is not a good choice as it promotes understeer. For now, just stuffen it and as you learn the ins and outs of the eps setup you can proceed from there. Enjoy it also get a nice set of sticky tires.

EDIT:Btw listen to mustclime and oldschoolfame, they have always been on this site with loads of suspension info.

[shibiku2]

what springs would recommend that work well with the HFP shocks?

[Soon2beEP3]

A good spring would be the H and R's(ive heard good feedback plus they look really nice and clean on the drop) or the Eibach Sportline. Personally, Id save up and order some Ground Control sleeves/coils with custom spring rates. Its has by far been the choice for autoxer's on this site plus they are completely height adjustable. I cheaped out and bought a used set of skunk2 sleeves/coils with types shocks and front camber kit for $220 shipped off of clubrsx, ive heard nothing but disappointment in them and ive had nothing but praise for them, so really its your choice but the GC's wud be a better choice.

[ep_hatcher_510]

what springs would recommend that work well with the HFP shocks?

i would suggest getting new shocks also if you get springs, or some hi performance shock (bilstiens :mwink:) with your hfp springs would make quite a difference i believe.

[Soon2beEP3]

I believe I read somewhere that the HFP's are similar to Tokico blues, im not to sure tho

[Soon2beEP3]

If you have the hfp suspension, that is a great set up. Because of our suspension design, dropping the ep more than a inch kills the handleing. Once the ft LCA's get past flat( one inch drop), cornering loads push the suspension through its travel and you end up ridding on your bump stops through turns.....I am sure there will be a couple people telling you that they have a 1 1/2-2 inch drop and their car rails the turns....trust me, take them to a autoX and watch their cars through the turns. The front suspension will just tuck under and they will have a bunch of understeer.:nerd:

Yea ive got my skunks slammed and i havent hit the roads up to hard due to the condition of my front tires but i havent noted any real improvement or change for that matter over the previous setup

[mustclime]

A good spring would be the H and R's(ive heard good feedback plus they look really nice and clean on the drop) or the Eibach Sportline. Personally, Id save up and order some Ground Control sleeves/coils with custom spring rates. Its has by far been the choice for autoxer's on this site plus they are completely height adjustable. I cheaped out and bought a used set of skunk2 sleeves/coils with types shocks and front camber kit for $220 shipped off of clubrsx, ive heard nothing but disappointment in them and ive had nothing but praise for them, so really its your choice but the GC's wud be a better choice.
H&R's are a 2 inch drop.....that will angle your lca's up and end in massaive under steer........




I believe I read somewhere that the HFP's are similar to Tokico blues, im not to sure tho
no.....blues are softer than hfp's......blues are stock replacements, thats it.


Yea ive got my skunks slammed and i havent hit the roads up to hard due to the condition of my front tires but i havent noted any real improvement or change for that matter over the previous setup
The minute your LCA's angle up....the games up, you lost....fyi, the skunk sleeves have the stiffer springs in the front for a total fail....our suspension need the stiffer springs in the rear. Skunk2 did no research for our cars, if they did, they would have never done this.


to the thread starter....if you are just DD your car, here is my advice....

keep your hfp suspension, add some crash bolts in the front and add as much negitive camber as you can in the front with about 1/32 toe out in the front....use 0 toe in the rear. If you want the car to really rail the turns, change out the suspension bushings with a energy suspension bushing kit. The stock bushings are very soft, the front lca bushings are designed to effect toe when cornering....this sucks unless you are a grandma....bushing changes are a huge pia and noone can see it....but it is one of the biggest changes you can do to your suspension.

as for sway bars.....I like the cusco 25mm solid rear bar...do nor incerase the front bar size.

[JohnnyTavo]

The minute your LCA's angle up....the games up, you lost....fyi, the skunk sleeves have the stiffer springs in the front for a total fail....our suspension need the stiffer springs in the [B]front. Skunk2 did no research for our cars, if they did, they would have never done this.


i think you meant rear here :mwink:

edit: just realized I bolded that in the wrong spot lol

[Soon2beEP3]

Well there you have it, like i said he is the man:mredface:

also isnt there something to correct the front lcas? I think ive seen it in SCC magazine,ill let you guys know if I find anything on that

[Soon2beEP3]

H&R's are a 2 inch drop.....that will angle your lca's up and end in massaive under steer........




no.....blues are softer than hfp's......blues are stock replacements, thats it.


The minute your LCA's angle up....the games up, you lost....fyi, the skunk sleeves have the stiffer springs in the front for a total fail....our suspension need the stiffer springs in the front. Skunk2 did no research for our cars, if they did, they would have never done this.


to the thread starter....if you are just DD your car, here is my advice....

keep your hfp suspension, add some crash bolts in the front and add as much negitive camber as you can in the front with about 1/32 toe out in the front....use 0 toe in the rear. If you want the car to really rail the turns, change out the suspension bushings with a energy suspension bushing kit. The stock bushings are very soft, the front lca bushings are designed to effect toe when cornering....this sucks unless you are a grandma....bushing changes are a huge pia and noone can see it....but it is one of the biggest changes you can do to your suspension.
as for sway bars.....I like the cusco 25mm solid rear bar...do nor incerase the front bar size.

Doesnt ES make a Bushing kit to replace those?

[Slip_Angle]

I Autocross with my HFP suspension and it's great. The best springs for the HFP shocks are the HFP springs, which have been engineered to match the shocks.

Here's what I run at autocross.

HFP Suspension
Progress Front and Rear Sways (24r 27f)
-1.5 degrees camber all around
1/32 toe out front
1/32 toe in rear

215/45/16 Falken Azenis RT-615
PBR Ultimate Brake Pads

Maximum Lateral G's TODAY at autocross 1.076 right and 1.036 left.

Car is great to drive on the street too!

[ep_hatcher_510]

Well there you have it, like i said he is the man:mredface:

also isnt there something to correct the front lcas? I think ive seen it in SCC magazine,ill let you guys know if I find anything on that

Roll center adjusters


Doesnt ES make a Bushing kit to replace those?

yes

[shibiku2]

thanks for the replies guys.... put in the order for my spc camber kit front and rear and cheaped out and got the progress rear sway.... I'll replace the rubber when it's time is due...

Not that it matters any but i picked up the BC SS kit, alumi bushings.... im on my way...

Next steps hfp front and rear lips...jrsc (anyone know where the best price is? or know anybody who's selling a used one?) :)

[powdbyrice]

ps: talk to mustclime or zzyzx our resident suspension gurus.

ive been stock and now i have hfp suspension. its a great improvement over stock.

[JohnnyTavo]

no he definitely meant stiffer in the rear, you always want the rear to be more stiff in a fwd car, just as you always want the rear softer in a rwd car, you want the drive wheels to have more grip than the non drive wheels

[v1c10us]

the stiffer the rear the more prone to oversteer, which is what most people want these days.
Im not sure how stiff the HFP springs are
but if you're going to replace them I would get D-specs and tein S techs
If you're going to get coilovers I would get the megan, they've got good good rates, i think they're like 440 front and 680 rear.
8k and 12k or something like that.
And then just drop them like an inch.
I'm personally sacrificing some handling and going 1.8 in the front and 1.5 in the rear just because im not a track queen or anything, I want it to look good but not be extreme.

[mustclime]

I Autocross with my HFP suspension and it's great. The best springs for the HFP shocks are the HFP springs, which have been engineered to match the shocks.

Here's what I run at autocross.

HFP Suspension
Progress Front and Rear Sways (24r 27f)
-1.5 degrees camber all around
1/32 toe out front
1/32 toe in rear

215/45/16 Falken Azenis RT-615
PBR Ultimate Brake Pads

Maximum Lateral G's TODAY at autocross 1.076 right and 1.036 left.

Car is great to drive on the street too!
Loose the progress ft bar asap.....I am running the 2003 em2 15.9mm ft bar to allow the front suspension more independant. This really helps you put the power down with a open diff on turn exit....my guess is you are spinning wheels a lot and still getting some plow.
Iwould also look into 225/50-16's




the stiffer the rear the more prone to oversteer, which is what most people want these days.
Im not sure how stiff the HFP springs are
but if you're going to replace them I would get D-specs and tein S techs
If you're going to get coilovers I would get the megan, they've got good good rates, i think they're like 440 front and 680 rear.
8k and 12k or something like that.
And then just drop them like an inch.
I'm personally sacrificing some handling and going 1.8 in the front and 1.5 in the rear just because im not a track queen or anything, I want it to look good but not be extreme.

Sorry, I can not agree. Have you ever really looked at our front suspension? Look at this....

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg96/mustclime/S4_Civic_2-1.gif

look at the top pic....the minute the LCA angles up, any cornering force pushes the suspension through its travel. This is why people want to put huge ft sway bars on the car. It not the sway, its the angled up lca.

[JohnnyTavo]

I think Lee Grimes told me our front suspension has like 3 inches of usable travel lol

[Soon2beEP3]

Loose the progress ft bar asap.....I am running the 2003 em2 15.9mm ft bar to allow the front suspension more independant. This really helps you put the power down with a open diff on turn exit....my guess is you are spinning wheels a lot and still getting some plow.
Iwould also look into 225/50-16's





Sorry, I can not agree. Have you ever really looked at our front suspension? Look at this....

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg96/mustclime/S4_Civic_2-1.gif

look at the top pic....the minute the LCA angles up, any cornering force pushes the suspension through its travel. This is why people want to put huge ft sway bars on the car. It not the sway, its the angled up lca.


So the roll center adjusters will flatten out the front lca's? Making the lower center of gravity usable?

[mustclime]

So the roll center adjusters will flatten out the front lca's? Making the lower center of gravity usable?

yes, but you open up a hole new can of worms....
1) rollcenter adjusters are only good for about a 1 1/2-2 inch drop...any more than that and the lca are going to angle up again..
2) tie rods will need to be delt with.....at around 2 inches drop you start to run low on thread....so that mo-money...fyi,the inverted tie rod kits brake...:mfrown:
3) have you thought about your rear suspension? Its roll centers are affected by the drop....With its .588 motion ratio, its more....:mfrown:

You want a lower center of gravity? Loose the sun roof assy....thats 38 lbs at the top of your car, how about lowering your seat? Change out the hatch glass and rear quarter glass with plastic, a cf hood will help. All of these would make for a faster road course car than screwing up you suspension.

[v1c10us]

Sorry, I can not agree. Have you ever really looked at our front suspension? Look at this....

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg96/mustclime/S4_Civic_2-1.gif

look at the top pic....the minute the LCA angles up, any cornering force pushes the suspension through its travel. This is why people want to put huge ft sway bars on the car. It not the sway, its the angled up lca.

Im not sure what your disagreeing with?
I just said that stiffening the rear induces oversteer.
I would never put a larger front sway on the sway on the car, I drove around without one for a while and if it werent for the fact that changing lanes at 80mph felt like i was about to kill myself I would've kept it off.
if you were disagreeing with my coilover choice then the information you provided doesnt really make any sense; If you were disagreeing with saying I'd go with a 1 inch drop, then i guess thats fine.
Im just not sure what you're disagreeing with, help me?

[Soon2beEP3]

Heres what my lca's look like:


A reference picture(its all the way down on skunk coils, im assuming its around 2.5 inches)

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007862.jpg

heres the front drivers side

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007847.jpg

heres the front passenger side

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007859.jpg

another front drivers side pic

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007850.jpg

rear drivers side

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007855.jpg

[v1c10us]

the fronts are really bad
the rears are not so bad
but on the fronts its kinda hard tot el because of the shape of the LCA, but look at where it is mounted to the wheel area, the angle is ridiculous.

[Soon2beEP3]

Ah, so its the mounting point that is the problem. Nice, anybody have any stock lca pictures for measure? And what exactly is the negative point of the angled lca? Is it something I should have noticed or is it really only seen on time slips?

[v1c10us]

well its not the mounting point thats the problem, its just the only place you can really see the angles
instead of = it looks more like >

if those are the only aftermarket springs you've ever bought you probably wouldn't be able to tell because as much as its messing with you, the car is lower and it is stiffer so its sort of negated.
but if you switched to some other springs like S-techs or some swift springs with custom rates you'd realize what you're missing

[Soon2beEP3]

Well, I was riding on the Eibach pro-kit before that for the longest time and them I switched to the sleeves. It did feel less swayey to me.

[ep_hatcher_510]

http://i97.photobucket.com/albums/l223/Soon2beep3/S5007862.jpg



car wash? :mwink:

[blksi02]

I have H&R on stock shocks and love them but i had no idea it would be bad on HFP shocks. I figured it would be so close it wouldnt matter

[blksi02]

car wash? :mwink:

and yes. lol

[RTE117]

Buy something with double wishbone.

I kidd, I kidd.

[blksi02]

Buy something with double wishbone.

I kidd, I kidd.

Yea right lol

[mustclime]

Im not sure what your disagreeing with?
I just said that stiffening the rear induces oversteer.
I would never put a larger front sway on the sway on the car, I drove around without one for a while and if it werent for the fact that changing lanes at 80mph felt like i was about to kill myself I would've kept it off.
if you were disagreeing with my coilover choice then the information you provided doesnt really make any sense; If you were disagreeing with saying I'd go with a 1 inch drop, then i guess thats fine.
Im just not sure what you're disagreeing with, help me?

s-tecs are 1 1/2 drop....to much imo...thats what I was disagreeing with.

[powdbyrice]

one of the former vendors added eibach springs to the HFP struts. it gained an extra 1/2" of drop. looked nice.

HFP springs are progressive and pretty soft. we had the spring rates prior to the site crash.

[mustclime]

one of the former vendors added eibach springs to the HFP struts. it gained an extra 1/2" of drop. looked nice.

HFP springs are progressive and pretty soft. we had the spring rates prior to the site crash.
hfp review.........

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=39&article_id=1425

Quote" Unanimously heralded as one of the best-handling cars in our group, the Civic Si benefits enormously from the HFP's well-executed performance package. True, it could still use some help in the engine and braking departments, but given its humble beginnings, this upgraded Si is definitely headed in the right direction. Hey, HFP, how about some extra ponies?"

[Soon2beEP3]

car wash? :mwink:

You live on a dirt road and see how old daily car washes get:mwink:, trust me i try to take care of it but dirt roads ftl! Im thinking about leaving it down at the shop where the pics were taken but it would be outside so idk

[Soon2beEP3]

What exactly is being lowered, as much as I am, do to the handling? I know its bad but I havent had a straight forward answer.

[powdbyrice]

hfp review.........

http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=39&article_id=1425

Quote" Unanimously heralded as one of the best-handling cars in our group, the Civic Si benefits enormously from the HFP's well-executed performance package. True, it could still use some help in the engine and braking departments, but given its humble beginnings, this upgraded Si is definitely headed in the right direction. Hey, HFP, how about some extra ponies?"

poor ep came in 6th out of 7. =(

[mustclime]

What exactly is being lowered, as much as I am, do to the handling? I know its bad but I havent had a straight forward answer.

OK, look at this pic...

http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg96/mustclime/S4_Civic_2-1.gif

See the slight down ward angle of the lca in the top pic? That is at stock ride hight. Now say this car gets on a long right hand turn, the tire gripps and the force of holding the car on line goes from the tread patch, up into the wheel and down the LCA. Since the lca is more or less flat with the load, force travels doen it and into the K member and the car stays flat through the turn.

Now, drop the car 2 inches, the LCA is now angled up in the top pic. Now lets put the dropped car in a long right hand turn again with the LCA angled up. The force starts at the contact patch of the tire and moves up to the rim, then as it it tranfered into the up angled LCA the are starts to angle up more compressing the suspension more, the more the suspension comrepresses, the more leverage the road force has on the LCA and before you know it, you are ridding on your bump stop........

hows that.....lowered =bad

[WhiteComet]

I got the HFP and am upgrading to the BC N+ and I can definitely vouch for the handeling of HFPs. They feel great, and I have witnessed people with my setup do VERY well.

The reason I wanted to get rid of the wheel gap completely from my car but after reading this post, i'm actually having mixed feelings now.

I think I will probably just do a 1.3-1.4 drop on the car, this will make it just a tad lower than the HFP and would be on par with the MUGEN SS setup.

1.3-1.4 should'nt kill my handeling right? Does Mr. Musty want to chime in on this?





P.S. My HFPs will go up in the classifieds once I do the upgrade :)

[mustclime]

If you fear the wheel gap....get bigger tires.......I am running 225/45-17's......75 of a inch larger than stock, more tread patch, and a higher top speed in 2nd gear........for autoX:mredface:

[Soon2beEP3]

I appreciate the knowledge musty, thanx a lot:mwink:

[powdbyrice]

we'll drop more knowledge for more pix of the tan lines in your avy.

[powdbyrice]

I got the HFP and am upgrading to the BC N+ and I can definitely vouch for the handeling of HFPs. They feel great, and I have witnessed people with my setup do VERY well.

The reason I wanted to get rid of the wheel gap completely from my car but after reading this post, i'm actually having mixed feelings now.

I think I will probably just do a 1.3-1.4 drop on the car, this will make it just a tad lower than the HFP and would be on par with the MUGEN SS setup.

1.3-1.4 should'nt kill my handeling right? Does Mr. Musty want to chime in on this?





P.S. My HFPs will go up in the classifieds once I do the upgrade :)

you'll be fine with something less than 1.5"

[shibiku2]

Okay since this thread is going so well I will add to it:

I just had my HFP shocks and struts installed. It was a pita and I messed my axle up. without proper guidance I pulled the boot off to get the axle back in. got a new kit to seal the boot with new grease. Wasn't tight enough sooo all of the grease came out... Long story short to be safe I had them install a new axle to prevent further problems.

Now I have a whirlling noise coming from what I suspect is the alignment which I had them tune to the agressive specs reccommended by Zzyxxx (?)

The only other changes I made was the installation of the Front Strut bar.

My fear is in my new lowered state/ axle prblems damaged my bearings.... Or it's just the alignment specs that are making extra tire noise and I am paranoid.

It also seems like the noise is getting worse. It is present at about 30mph and anything above that the road noise drowns it out but it noticible.

My first question is: What could be causing this noise? Alignment? Axel/tranny damage

Second one: Should my car need a camber kit for hfp suspension to get it back to stock spec? Do the hfp kits have different camber arms (don't know what they are called)?

[powdbyrice]

dunno the answer to the noises that you're experiencing.

hfp alignment specs (different than OEM) can be reached without a camber kit. you will need to buy aftermarket camber kits for the front and rear if you want more camber.

[jtyler05si]

If you fear the wheel gap....get bigger tires.......I am running 225/45-17's......75 of a inch larger than stock, more tread patch, and a higher top speed in 2nd gear........for autoX:mredface:

i dont want to lower my car... i have the stock 16's. what tire size would make my wheel gap smaller? any problems with rubbing?

[frm_808]

i htink someone should make a poll about all the coilovers made for the ep. that way WE ALL KNOW who likes wat the most....

just an idea

[Zzyzx]

4Now I have a whirlling noise coming from what I suspect is the alignment which I had them tune to the agressive specs reccommended by Zzyxxx (?)




Possibly, did you get the alignment with new tires or old tires?

[shibiku2]

old tires...

[Zzyzx]

Then there is the possibility that the old tires wore in to the alignment you had previously (camber angles and such). and now that you have a new alignment the tires are riding on rubber that may be more or less worn then before & making more noise.

Also, as tires age and get harder they do get noisier.

[shibiku2]

Then there is the possibility that the old tires wore in to the alignment you had previously (camber angles and such). and now that you have a new alignment the tires are riding on rubber that may be more or less worn then before & making more noise.

Also, as tires age and get harder they do get noisier.

I'm going to go with this...

[SD_smrk1]

Wow lots of info in this thread.. if i was just to daily my car which i do and just want some tightness in the suspension for when i feel like taking a couple turns here and there but mainly just drive it as daily and want it to look good.... takes breath....
would a 2" drop be fine with GC's, rear lca's(proablly more for bling like the omni power), rear camber kit and sway bars front rear and inside body bars like c/b pillar strut tower bar(the one inside the engine bay)... would this work for daily and not cause much damage... I like low and dont do the whole autox thing.. but like drivability and confidence..

[powdbyrice]

should be... talk to the other SD guys. all of them are SLAMMED.

[SD_smrk1]

true dat, didnt even think of that...
man your a smart cookie lol haha

[Zzyzx]

2" drop is lower then what could be considered "optimum" for this car, handling wise. With out doing more substantial work to the suspension.

[ep_hatcher_510]

Wow lots of info in this thread.. if i was just to daily my car which i do and just want some tightness in the suspension for when i feel like taking a couple turns here and there but mainly just drive it as daily and want it to look good.... takes breath....
would a 2" drop be fine with GC's, rear lca's(proablly more for bling like the omni power), rear camber kit and sway bars front rear and inside body bars like c/b pillar strut tower bar(the one inside the engine bay)... would this work for daily and not cause much damage... I like low and dont do the whole autox thing.. but like drivability and confidence..

The thing about the GCs or any coilover slevees is that the lower you go the more shock travel you lose. So if you want to go low the best thing to do is get a coilover system that has a shorter shock body or independent height adjustment so that shock travel wont be a huge issue and you wont be riding on your bump stops.

[SD_smrk1]

true dat... but i just bought these cause it what i could afford... is there a way to work with these to make them work.. ?

[mustclime]

i dont want to lower my car... i have the stock 16's. what tire size would make my wheel gap smaller? any problems with rubbing?
well if you are stock (04-05) your stock size is 205/55-16....a 205/60-16 will increase over all dia by about 3/8th of a inch,205/65-16 will be close to 5/8ths of a inch larger with no rubbing



Wow lots of info in this thread.. if i was just to daily my car which i do and just want some tightness in the suspension for when i feel like taking a couple turns here and there but mainly just drive it as daily and want it to look good.... takes breath....
would a 2" drop be fine with GC's, rear lca's(proablly more for bling like the omni power), rear camber kit and sway bars front rear and inside body bars like c/b pillar strut tower bar(the one inside the engine bay)... would this work for daily and not cause much damage... I like low and dont do the whole autox thing.. but like drivability and confidence..

if you are dropping the car by 2 inches with out some major suspension work you are going to handle like poop.

[SD_smrk1]

what is "major suspension work" consist of... i would like to know so that this will handle well and stiff at this hieght... please help

[shibiku2]

Rear Sway installed: O M G the car is 100% better... much more confident and a joy to drive!!!!

Installing the camer kits htis weekend and it get it all dialed in.

[ep_hatcher_510]

yeah a rear sway really brings the ep to life.

[Soon2beEP3]

I went and pulled some hard rights and lefts in my car, tonite. I can see how the stiffer front os bad as the wheels were constantly slipping. It "felt" fine to me but I was not turning the radius at that speed I should have been. I was doing huge almost straight lines it just wasnt cutting hard at all. Im going to order a rear sway and remove the front, then go out and test it again. Btw, the tires I have are balls.Also, to sd smrk1 most folks couple the GC's with koni yellows and get great results.

[madcityEP]

be very careful when missmatching springs and shocks. Granted it will handle a lot better but never to its full potential, just because when you missmatch like that the springs wont mesh with the shocks and it can make the car unhappy. For a cheap shock and spring setup i always will recommend the koni yellow sport kit, with the setup i had it gave the car a good ammout of oversteer and gave it a nice ride hight, awesome for autoX. I got a set of coilovers and the car is an animal when you have the suspension tuned right.