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View Full Version : New JRSC tensioner option???



MugenReplica
07-11-2008, 07:59 AM
Looks like CT has released a new tensioner design for the FA5/FG2. Since they both have EPS like us, this could be a possible alternative for us. It could possibly get rid of that ridiculous manual tensioner that JRSC attempts to supply us. So who wants to be the first guinea pig?

Discuss.....

Look at that belt coverage! AMAZING!!!
http://www.ct-engineering.com/store/media/350-091.jpg

http://i197.photobucket.com/albums/aa44/highrev1/epstensioner.jpg

si4life
07-11-2008, 09:46 AM
is it still a manual belt tensioner?

MugenReplica
07-11-2008, 09:52 AM
is it still a manual belt tensioner?

From what I can see, I don't think so. But I don't know for sure.

si4life
07-11-2008, 10:00 AM
that would make some sick ass boost if it would be used on the jrsc! i'm not brave enough to be the 1st to try this out.

T_Virus
07-11-2008, 10:24 AM
Um...noobie fart...what does this do?:mangel:

cHaRL!e
07-11-2008, 11:31 AM
i talked to oscar jackson when i went in for a tune on tuesday at church. Apparently they are looking in to making an automatic tensioner for their older superchargers, although I'm not sure how likely they are going to go through with it.

si4life
07-11-2008, 11:42 AM
That would be sick if they did! :mtongue:

i talked to oscar jackson when i went in for a tune on tuesday at church. Apparently they are looking in to making an automatic tensioner for their older superchargers, although I'm not sure how likely they are going to go through with it.

mustclime
07-11-2008, 11:56 AM
I have had zero issues with my gates belt....belts like tires can be made out of different rubber compounds...daytons suck, gates seem to work really well. I have never tried the goodyear, noone seems to have them when I need them.

jerseyjew
07-11-2008, 06:44 PM
There is not much need for this assembly when running the 4" pulley. If you are running the 3.8 or 3.7 and making 10+ psi, you may see slippage with the JRSC tensioner. Good post though. That is a good looking unit but is probably in the neighborhood of $300-$400.

4angrybadgers
07-11-2008, 07:15 PM
Agreed jerseyjew. I seem to remember a few of the CRSX guys using CT ATs and they cost hundreds of dollars.

MugenReplica
07-11-2008, 07:23 PM
There is not much need for this assembly when running the 4" pulley. If you are running the 3.8 or 3.7 and making 10+ psi, you may see slippage with the JRSC tensioner. Good post though. That is a good looking unit but is probably in the neighborhood of $300-$400.


Agreed jerseyjew. I seem to remember a few of the CRSX guys using CT ATs and they cost hundreds of dollars.

Definitely agreed. I was guessing a minimum of a $250 charge. Maybe with this we'll get some guys attempting to run the 3.8 and 3.7 more often. Then all they gotta worry about is detonation running boost that high. Nothing a alchohol/meth injection kit and/or E85 can't handle.:mbiggrin:

4angrybadgers
07-11-2008, 07:26 PM
Definitely agreed. I was guessing a minimum of a $250 charge. Maybe with this we'll get some guys attempting to run the 3.8 and 3.7 more often. Then all they gotta worry about is detonation running boost that high. Nothing a alchohol/meth injection kit and/or E85 can't handle.:mbiggrin:

The 3.8 doesn't require anything special, just a good tune. I have the 3.8 in the heat of a Mississippi/Louisiana summer with no issues. :mwink:

classiccelica
07-11-2008, 08:05 PM
Damn 3.8 huh? What kind of numbers are you pulling at the wheels? I have a buddy with the 4" and his slips like a mother. He only ran a best of 14.6 at 97mph at famoso in bakersfeild.

4angrybadgers
07-12-2008, 06:36 AM
Damn 3.8 huh? What kind of numbers are you pulling at the wheels? I have a buddy with the 4" and his slips like a mother. He only ran a best of 14.6 at 97mph at famoso in bakersfeild.

211/165.9 at the wheels, on a Mustang dyno. To quote the tuner, "1st gear is just retarded" - I'm on 205/50/15 Yokos and if I go WOT anywhere in 1st I just smoke the tires. :mbiggrin:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/102crew/tune%20in%20Mobile/dyno_sheet.jpg

I went to the track once since I had it tuned, but by the time I got a good launch my clutch was slipping pretty badly (worn out). Best time was something like a 14.7 because of the clutch.

Kodeen
07-12-2008, 08:05 AM
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v703/102crew/tune%20in%20Mobile/dyno_sheet.jpg


What does 'with WCF' mean on that chart?

Oxygen
07-12-2008, 08:19 AM
What does 'with WCF' mean on that chart?

Weather Correction Factor, I believe. They include that on there to account for things like density of the air, temperature, altitude, stuff like that. It is to make readings standard across multiple runs, I think.

jerseyjew
07-12-2008, 10:25 AM
Weather Correction Factor, I believe. They include that on there to account for things like density of the air, temperature, altitude, stuff like that. It is to make readings standard across multiple runs, I think.
You are 100% correct. WCF= weather correction factor! It is a corrected # which is always lower then uncorrected numbers, but allows for tuners to have a standard to tune from.

Strife
07-12-2008, 10:33 AM
That would be amazing if we got some alternatives. I hate my manual tensioner.

4angrybadgers
07-12-2008, 11:32 AM
Weather Correction Factor, I believe. They include that on there to account for things like density of the air, temperature, altitude, stuff like that. It is to make readings standard across multiple runs, I think.


You are 100% correct. WCF= weather correction factor! It is a corrected # which is always lower then uncorrected numbers, but allows for tuners to have a standard to tune from.

:thumb: Apparently the Mustang dynos have a metric buttload of correction factors, WCF being one of them.

kaisertj
07-12-2008, 11:47 AM
Would be cool if this would work. I'd try it if the ep wasnt my DD right now.

suckafree
07-23-2008, 05:09 PM
i would definitely be interested to try this out. Im more than willing to be the guinea pig, any more info?

BlownSi05
07-24-2008, 06:02 AM
The 3.8 doesn't require anything special, just a good tune. I have the 3.8 in the heat of a Mississippi/Louisiana summer with no issues. :mwink:

see i have wondered about this because my problem with the 3.8" pulley like everyone else was heat. i have the 4" on now because of summer but i am in the same climate as you being in coastal georgia. have you ever had it on the dyno and had them monitor what your inlet temps get up to? i also had a short ram until 3 weeks ago when i finally got a full Injen CAI. when i was on the dyno getting the 3.8" tuned my inlet temps hit 211 Degrees after 6 pulls. after a few datalogs with the cai i have noticed that the intake temp itself stays down lower, which was expected.

mustang dynos typically read a lot lower than dynojets and dynopak dynos. if you have a shop with a dynojet i would try to get a couple power pulls on it. i know its just a number and i usually dont trust the numbers until i see what it does on the road/track, but it would be good for a comparison. and so continues the age old discussion....lol

4angrybadgers
07-24-2008, 10:38 AM
I was tuned mid-March, so the ambient temp stayed between 70 and 80 degrees. The IAT never got above 120 I think (of course there was a huge box fan blowing into the engine bay) - we didn't measure the blower temp.

My car was only on the Mustang dyno, and I took off the supercharger last week, so I won't get numbers on any other dynos. Some people have said the Mustang dynos read ~15% lower than a Dynojet, and that would put me around 240whp on a Dynojet, which is what a few other 3.8 users have reported.

ep3john
08-01-2008, 03:35 PM
Damn 3.8 huh? What kind of numbers are you pulling at the wheels? I have a buddy with the 4" and his slips like a mother. He only ran a best of 14.6 at 97mph at famoso in bakersfeild.



the 14.6 was ran due to the lack of proper tires(2.5 60ft on bald entry level tires lol), it had nothing to do with the belt sliping. Although from time to time my belt will slip but its usually because it is streching out so its a simple fix.

66elwood99
08-02-2008, 07:11 PM
I would like it because I'm always worried about over or under tightening the belt......I think that I over tightened it and that's how I killed my first pulley on the tensioner

skoolnu
08-03-2008, 10:33 AM
i havent had a problem with mine yet, but i would like to figure out something. cause the JR tensioner is :gheywa:

skoolnu
08-06-2008, 05:26 PM
well i spoke too soon. my tensioner shit the bed on me... going to retap the bolt hole for that junk tensioner bolt. if not... im making my damn own. should of did that from the start. I cant believe they paid someone to design such a crap piece.

jmercado567
08-10-2008, 05:58 PM
Hello,
I have designed a bracket that allows for Jrsc users to use the OEM tenstioner on the acura RSX. I believe the bracket will fit your K20 engines just fine as long as the oem idler is used.

Here is the link to the discussion that has gone thru while developing and testing the unit.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=555282

Right now, it is tested for sucessful installation with 3.4, 3.2 and 3.0 pulleys and Running upto 8600 rpm with no belt slip or the usual problems you guys go thru with this supercharger manual tensioner.

The cost is 200 dollars. the first two EP hatch to order and try the installation will have it for 150 dollars.

this solution solves:
belt slip
belt schredding
over tensioning causing premature failure to bearings of attached components
broken pulleys,
etc, etc.

On the RSX we have found that the spacers for AC and Alternator were not needed. However the ep tight engine compartment and charger location are different and may still need the spacers.

Anyone interested please contact me at jmercado567 at yahoo.com

Jose

skoolnu
08-12-2008, 02:06 PM
Hello,
I have designed a bracket that allows for Jrsc users to use the OEM tenstioner on the acura RSX. I believe the bracket will fit your K20 engines just fine as long as the oem idler is used.

Here is the link to the discussion that has gone thru while developing and testing the unit.

http://forums.clubrsx.com/showthread.php?t=555282

Right now, it is tested for sucessful installation with 3.4, 3.2 and 3.0 pulleys and Running upto 8600 rpm with no belt slip or the usual problems you guys go thru with this supercharger manual tensioner.

The cost is 200 dollars. the first two EP hatch to order and try the installation will have it for 150 dollars.

this solution solves:
belt slip
belt schredding
over tensioning causing premature failure to bearings of attached components
broken pulleys,
etc, etc.

On the RSX we have found that the spacers for AC and Alternator were not needed. However the ep tight engine compartment and charger location are different and may still need the spacers.

Anyone interested please contact me at jmercado567 at yahoo.com

Jose

so you havent tested one for a ep3?

jmercado567
08-13-2008, 05:26 AM
Just the rsx so far.

skoolnu
08-13-2008, 01:49 PM
ill test it for free, and if it works then ill buy it for 150.

jmercado567
08-13-2008, 07:24 PM
I'd love to do that but I can't. I can however offer you a full refund if you find that it does not work. With paypal you are protected and we can make it part of the documentation when making the transaction. I am not a company and do not have the available resources to just send stuf out for free. sorry.

Let me know. Looking forward to it.

thanks!


ill test it for free, and if it works then ill buy it for 150.

skoolnu
08-14-2008, 08:37 PM
get a prototype made and im sure they will sell like hotcakes! Lets see it, and well go from there

02EP3SI
08-14-2008, 08:42 PM
guess what people.. by looking at the picture it looks like a manual tensioner. I dont see any spring loaded area on it. I made my own auto tensioner out of our stock tensioner though. Worked great when i had my k20a boosted at 9-10 psi

Ill show a pic of where it was modded to work with the blower.

I also modded another one for my buddies EG running 13 psi and he had 0 belt slip on the dyno

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc151/02ep3si/picoftensioner.jpg

just look at the corner near the blower.. I cut off about an inch of aluminum. Its only the bolt hole that holds the lower bolt for the idler pulley which you dont need with the supercharger.. At least i didnt need it lol.

So it also allowed for great pulley coverage.

jmercado567
08-14-2008, 09:17 PM
This is exactly what I needed to see.

There is no way I can make the relocation bracket work. we need both mounting points on the tensioner and there is no space to do this. The supercharger is way too tight.

02EP3SI has the best and cheapest solution. Anyone can do this with some griding.

Nice Job and thinking man!

FYI 02EP3SI my piece is not a tensioner. it is a relocating bracket for the powersteering.

Case closed here. Thanks!

02EP3SI
08-15-2008, 03:03 AM
Ok.. no problem.. Glad i could help

Just remember people if you do what i have done and want to go back to stock you will need to buy a new tensioner.

skoolnu
08-15-2008, 06:06 PM
guess what people.. by looking at the picture it looks like a manual tensioner. I dont see any spring loaded area on it. I made my own auto tensioner out of our stock tensioner though. Worked great when i had my k20a boosted at 9-10 psi

Ill show a pic of where it was modded to work with the blower.

I also modded another one for my buddies EG running 13 psi and he had 0 belt slip on the dyno

http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc151/02ep3si/picoftensioner.jpg

just look at the corner near the blower.. I cut off about an inch of aluminum. Its only the bolt hole that holds the lower bolt for the idler pulley which you dont need with the supercharger.. At least i didnt need it lol.

So it also allowed for great pulley coverage.

Thats sweet dude... shit, i sold my stock tensioner to MugenReplica lol. thats alright tho. what size belt you running?

02EP3SI
08-15-2008, 06:16 PM
i just reallized something when you asked what belt i was running.... This may be a problem for the a3 guys..

I was running a k20a which has the smalled crank pulley and a 3 inch blower pulley.

I was running a 62 inch belt also i think.. Its been a couple months now.

If anyone is close to cincinnati with an a3 blower and wants to come over to my house we can get something figured out with it.

The tensioner pulley may rub on a 4 inch pulley setup, but we may be able to find a smaller pulley to fit the tensioner??

I really want to get this figured out for us ep guys... Another option is to use the RSX blower manifold and notch the core support :)

skoolnu
08-15-2008, 06:21 PM
i just reallized something when you asked what belt i was running.... This may be a problem for the a3 guys..

I was running a k20a which has the smalled crank pulley and a 3 inch blower pulley.

I was running a 62 inch belt also i think.. Its been a couple months now.

If anyone is close to cincinnati with an a3 blower and wants to come over to my house we can get something figured out with it.

The tensioner pulley may rub on a 4 inch pulley setup, but we may be able to find a smaller pulley to fit the tensioner??

I really want to get this figured out for us ep guys... Another option is to use the RSX blower manifold and notch the core support :)

word. notchin is too much hackin, not safe.im too far away or id say lets do it.

headaike
08-22-2008, 09:57 PM
has anybody check if this is ok for the a3?

headaike
08-24-2008, 12:41 PM
can you please make a DIY on this, on where exactly you modified the stock auto tensioner
picture would be good
I cant see it from the picture you have




Ok.. no problem.. Glad i could help

Just remember people if you do what i have done and want to go back to stock you will need to buy a new tensioner.

Teejay
08-28-2008, 09:12 PM
i have to change my alternator soon, i might attemp this. i have 2 stock tensioners from before i installed my jrsc-r. Anyone wanna give it a try im down for the cause we can even video diy the whole thing. Got an extra one for those who are brave enough to enter the unknown with me.