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Heitzke
07-27-2008, 09:12 PM
Pretty easy install, but figured I'd do a little write up while I was replacing the driver side channel.

Tools Needed:
10 mm socket
long(ish) phillips head screwdriver
magnetic picker (possibly)
smaller flat head screwdriver
small allen wrench, no real specific size is needed



First, use the allen to put in the little hole behind the door handle to pop out the silver cover.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1100.jpg

Sans door handle cover

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1101.jpg

Use a smaller flat head screwdriver to stick in this small slot to pry off the lower door handle cover. The plastic is pretty soft, so be careful if you're really OCD.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1102.jpg

Sans Cover

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1103.jpg

Pretty straightforward, just back out the visible screws to pop the handle off. There are 3 screws that are recessed pretty far in there, so if you can't pull everything apart you probably missed those.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1103.jpg

Handle off

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1104.jpg

Pull out the switch panel and detach the wiring from the back. There is a little grey tab to push in so it releases.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1105.jpg

Free door panel

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1106.jpg

Sort of tricky, but now the panel is just being held on by those stubborn plastic clips. I just grabbed up by the tweeter and slowly worked my hand behind the panel and gave it a good yank. Don't go apeshit on it because you'll break some clips, but the panel should pop off pretty easily.

Once the panel is free (from the clips anyway) it will be hanging by the release cable and the power lock switch wiring.

Picture of the lock switch.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1107.jpg

This is the door release. To take this off, slip the white piece from the collar on the door panel then twist the end of the release out of the grey collar and it will pop out. It's confusing to put into words, so I might make a little illustration if my directions weren't clear.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1108.jpg

Naked door

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1109.jpg

Now pull down the white plastic, but be aware of the sticky gook stuff. It might be the stickiest shit on the entire planet.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1110.jpg

Now clip the window switch back up so you can put the window down a little bit.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1111.jpg

If you notice the two holes in the middle of the door panel; this is where the two bolts holding the window on the regulator will be removed from. Lower the window down about half way, and you will see the two 10mm bolts.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1112.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1113.jpg

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1114.jpg

Now removed the two 10mm bolts, but be careful so that you don't accidentally drop the window while doing this. I couldn't take any pics of this part since I was working by my lonesome.

Once the window is sitting freely, just grab it and pull it out from the top.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1115.jpg

I always drop a bolt in the door, so a magnetic picker comes in handy.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1116.jpg

windowless!

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1117.jpg

Now you can reach into the bottom of the channel and just rip the pos rubber piece out of there.

Look how trashed mine was.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1118.jpg

Here is what the channel looks like while installing.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1120.jpg

Installing is very straightforward, you just pinch it a little and jam it into the channel.

http://i37.photobucket.com/albums/e88/Heitzke/IMG_1121.jpg

Make sure you don't pull forward on the channel in the direction you are installing. The rubber is very stretchy and you will find it not lining up correctly once you get to the opposite corner if you pull on it.

Say you started with the back edge of the window, while working your way to the front, push back on the rubber when you are putting it into the channel.

Again, it's harder to describe this than show someone.

After this just install everything in reverse. There's really no trick to getting it all back together, just take your time.


The install is rather easy, just thought this might help someone because of how many EP's have a problem with the channel.

ALep3
07-27-2008, 09:39 PM
I need to do both you gonna help?

locoep3
07-27-2008, 09:43 PM
Nice diy

Heitzke
07-27-2008, 09:51 PM
I need to do both you gonna help?

Yeah for sure, we need to have another little install day whenever I get back.

lordofthesiths
07-28-2008, 05:55 AM
Great write up.
we need more like this.

Spidey
07-28-2008, 06:32 AM
I've been waiting for this DIY. Thanks!

heyvortek
07-29-2008, 12:10 PM
nice write up....or u can jus pay 300 for the dealership to do it.....FUK THAT....good write up...i jus got my channels in today

macdady678
08-05-2008, 02:15 PM
When I bought my car new from the dealer, the driver's side channel was kinked, and was causing wind noise. I finally got it repaired at the dealer, but they gave me $hit about it, blaming my tint. I've had both sides repaired before, but now my warranty is up, and I have to replace my drivers side again.

Do you order these channels from the dealer, and how much do they normally cost? Thanks for the write up!

SI DRAFTER
08-07-2008, 07:15 AM
WHAT IS THE PART # FOR THAT? I NEED TO REPLACE MY DRIVER'S SIDE ONE AGAIN. I HAD IT REPLACED ONCE BEFORE WHEN THE CAR WAS UNDER WARRANTY. THOSE DAYS ARE LONG GONE THO:mfrown:

heyvortek
08-07-2008, 12:31 PM
4873549 for the right side
4873550 for the left side...

dealer cost like 50 a piece...try to get it online if u really want to...depends on your preference...u can bitch at the dealer if they fuk up..i sure did

Heitzke
08-07-2008, 01:38 PM
Sweet, glad you guys like the DIY. Try PM'ing stoop on here for your best price on the channels. He will definitely hook it up.

I had ordered these a while ago before he came back, and think I payed somewhere around 30-35 apiece.

hanzda
08-13-2008, 10:18 AM
nice write up...you can also do it w/o taking off the door panel, just need alot of patience and lube to slide the channel in...ive done it both ways

wizDUMB
08-13-2008, 03:20 PM
nice write up

frm_808
08-14-2008, 01:43 AM
nice thumb ring buddie:tehehe:

Soprano21
08-14-2008, 06:36 AM
good write up mang....just did my passanger a week a ago

william
08-16-2008, 03:02 PM
thanks for the great write up, lots of pics, great instructions this is DIY at its best. Had my driverside channel replaced once under warrenty, now its time for a new one and i'm off warrenty, i'm totally tackling this myselfe thanks to this diy.

rspjean
08-16-2008, 03:43 PM
good diy i need to do this since i trashed mine with a coat hanger when i locked my keys in the car

civictype_r04
08-17-2008, 08:38 AM
Nice write up man.

macdady678
09-06-2008, 11:57 PM
I just did this for both doors today. Great write-up. Stoop hooked it up on the parts too! My window noise is gone!

Jukka
03-19-2010, 04:35 PM
Got mine done in the last hour of work...we were slow..lol. Only issue i had was 1 trying to find the holes to get at the bolts. I have my entire door pannel hushmatted, so i had to press and cut. Other than that, when i was trying to get the window back into place, it was a bit fussy. I used a bit of silicone spray on the seal where the window goes into and it goes up nice and smooth now.

neoamd
03-20-2010, 04:10 AM
I replaced both the passenger and driver side. Thanks for the DIY! It took my under 2 hours to do it and I'm so happy I have no wind blowing in and that my windows roll up/down without an issue! Thanks for DIY!

Also I painted all the silver plastic to Landau Black from SEM so i can add the CF overlays. Hell yeah!

dbnow88
04-03-2010, 06:14 PM
Awesome write-up. Took all of 40 mins and solved my window problems. Thanks man.

Jukka
07-04-2010, 10:03 AM
just a note, since now im having to do mine again on the drivers side. When you install the glass again, according to the EP shop manual, it says you align the glass when re installing it. They say to keep the 2 bolts that hold the window in place on, but loose, and push the glass towards the rear of the door (towards the back of the car) and then tighten the bolts. Then check to make sure the window slides up smoothly. I didn't align mine properly after the install, and when I went to install my weather tech visors, they pinched the seal again.

Heitzke
07-04-2010, 10:07 AM
just a note, since now im having to do mine again on the drivers side. When you install the glass again, according to the EP shop manual, it says you align the glass when re installing it. They say to keep the 2 bolts that hold the window in place on, but loose, and push the glass towards the rear of the door (towards the back of the car) and then tighten the bolts. Then check to make sure the window slides up smoothly. I didn't align mine properly after the install, and when I went to install my weather tech visors, they pinched the seal again.

Hm, interesting. I didn't know there was much adjustment in the windows, I'll have to play around with that and see if I help lose my window rattling issue. I have yet to find a good solution for that problem.

DA9_GSR
07-05-2010, 04:51 AM
I hate to sound like a smart ass, but I didn't have to remove the door panel to do mine. I'm a certified automotive mechanic and I have a little trick for you guys.

Simply pull your old ones out. If it gets tough, slide it back into place a little and pull again. To install the new ones, lubricate the entire moulding with silicone lubricant and slip it in. It might fight you a little going into place, that's when you spray a little more lube on it.

Jukka
07-05-2010, 06:09 AM
you probably could do it that way, but i would rather spend the extra 5 min to pull the door panel off and make sure there is no binding on the seal. I actually found with mine when i pulled it apart yesterday that the window was aligned properly, just i had some binding on the seal down in the door, so it was pushing the glass forward as it rolled up

Heitzke
07-05-2010, 07:11 AM
you probably could do it that way, but i would rather spend the extra 5 min to pull the door panel off and make sure there is no binding on the seal. I actually found with mine when i pulled it apart yesterday that the window was aligned properly, just i had some binding on the seal down in the door, so it was pushing the glass forward as it rolled up

Same. I've been told before that its unnecessary to remove the door panel & window, but its such an easy thing to do I don't know why you wouldn't.

thaseint
07-05-2010, 08:16 AM
Good DIY! Will come in handy at some point.

Both my channels are torn, I just put some 3m double sided tape in the channel as a temporary fix. This fixed it a little and helped a bit with the wind noise. Ideally some window weld or something to fill the gap would work much better.

Hate the fact that those stupid things are $30+ a piece and no matter what they'll eventually fail again and again. Seems like the channels are sized a hair too small which causes them to tear. When the window is rolled up they are pulled even tighter.

kai-wun
07-14-2010, 05:37 PM
my driver's side window was broken into and this is all torn up... with the window replaced, it struggles to close. a few days ago it totally came out of the track, and now today it wont roll up. will replacing this fix it? fuc...

Jukka
07-14-2010, 09:42 PM
yea it should if i remember how fucked up they were when i saw your car last, i would suggest replacing them. lemme know if you need a hand/wanna get it done.

kai-wun
07-15-2010, 07:21 AM
hey Bryan ... you didn't see my car when it got broken into; maybe another car? anyway it doesn't roll up properly and i had a friend help me guide it up into the tracks. fuck ... so pissed. i'm gonna order them soon and get it fixed. i'll probably do it on the weekend if it gets here fast enough.


yea it should if i remember how fucked up they were when i saw your car last, i would suggest replacing them. lemme know if you need a hand/wanna get it done.

Jukka
07-15-2010, 08:48 AM
i didn't but lemme know if you need a hand. send me a pm if you do.

jeenyusss
07-15-2010, 10:35 AM
Is this for when the window doesn't properly close when putting up? That's the problem I am having with the pass side

Heitzke
07-15-2010, 10:54 AM
Is this for when the window doesn't properly close when putting up? That's the problem I am having with the pass side

It's either the window channel bunching up/tearing of the actual window regulator piece that holds the window is getting loose. Both happen pretty commonly.. our window regs are pieces of shit.

Sucka
07-15-2010, 03:43 PM
Is this for when the window doesn't properly close when putting up? That's the problem I am having with the pass side

i'm having the same problem. How do you fix it?

Sucka
07-16-2010, 10:29 PM
I think my passenger door reg shit itself. Does anyone know how to replace it or have a diy?

SmoothEPs
07-24-2010, 02:43 PM
Is the channel the reason why I get ridiculous amounts of wind noise on the highway?

SUSHI_NE1
08-30-2010, 09:44 PM
I really need to do this.... My passenger side is all messed up and sometimes makes the motor work extra hard to get the window closed.... IF IT CLOSES AT ALL!.... LOL

Great write-up... will definitely be doing this soon.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
01-14-2011, 08:57 AM
question
i took apart my friends lexus es300 door once to put in a new window and we just didnt bother putting his plastic back on seeing as how its just a thin papery plastic
(must add he didnt care about his car at all)

I actually car about my ep so im wondering will the thin plastic go back onto the gooey stuff or will i need to reapply some kind of adhesive.

asking because i just bought passenger/driver window channels and i'm gonna replace my crapped out ones soon
looks like the owner who had the car before me got broken into before. =[

emsep
01-16-2011, 12:35 AM
i think its there to keep water out. you can put it back on using the old glue, but be carefull cus its hard to get that stuff off if its on your clothes or car.

c_law23
02-18-2011, 06:36 PM
Thanks so much for the DYI. I bought my ep3 a week ago and the channel was all torn to hell. I'm fairly certain that someone had broken the window breaking into the car previously as the track was messed up in certain places and the window was not original. Anyway, with the DIY my buddy and I were able to get it done in about 25 minutes. Thanks again!

hueyhy
03-12-2011, 08:47 PM
hey, just want to say something different about the part number. I checked online, here:
http://www.hondapartsdeals.com/hpa_parts_list.php?vin=&Label[ProductID]=CIVIC&Label[YearID]=2003&Label[DoorID]=3&Label[GradeID]=SI+%28SIDE+SRS%29&Label[AreaID]=KA&Label[TransmissionID]=5MT&Label[SectionID]=BODY+%2F+AIR+CONDITIONING&Label[IllustrationGroupID]=DOOR+WINDOWS&ProductID=4&YearID=21&DoorID=2&GradeID=456&AreaID=2&TransmissionID=3&SectionID=8&IllustrationGroupID=10228

I think it should be "5" and "10" on the pic. whose part number is : ( for me, the passenger side, right side) 72235-S5S-E01
it is different from the number that someone replied in this thread. So now I am confused.

polymorphic
03-13-2011, 09:56 AM
There are actually 2 parts each on that site. For mine, the '05, they have 2 parts for the left and 2 for the right, each a different price and each has been replaced by a new part number. Anyone know which is correct? :(

rolldogK20
03-13-2011, 09:09 PM
I need to do this !!!

Heitzke
03-14-2011, 01:02 PM
I mean, in that diagram, they're all the same price. It really shouldn't matter at all what part # it is as long as you're getting the correct channel for the side you're replacing.

polymorphic
03-14-2011, 02:29 PM
You're right, Heitzke, I was looking at hondapartsnow.com and they list 2x of the number 5 and 10 parts, one is $36 and the other is $33, the only noticeable differences being one part number ends in E01 and the other in E11.

NEO_FOLLOWER2
03-31-2011, 07:34 PM
i finally did both my drivers and passengerside today after having the channels for months and months
its great:biggrin1: so quiet now inside

and both of my P/n ended in 01
fit perfectly on both sides o.O

i picked it up from someone on this forum for $37 shipped for both

i did it along with installing new front speakers and sound dampening the area around the speakers also :happy:

NEO_FOLLOWER2
03-31-2011, 07:39 PM
i finally did both my drivers and passengerside today after having the channels for months and months
its great:biggrin1: so quiet now inside

and both of my P/n ended in 01
fit perfectly on both sides o.O

i picked it up from someone on this forum for $37 shipped for both

i did it along with installing new front speakers and sound dampening the area around the speakers also :happy:

the speakers was a bioootccc to install because the stock hole is so small
but the channel themselves is easy to install
as well as taking out and putting back the glass
everything was cake

took me 2.5 hrs to do everything(speakers, sound dampening the mount area, removing the glass, putting on new channels, putting everything back)
and i usually take at least 3 times as long as the expected time a normal person would

Yo_KyleEP3
04-06-2011, 10:17 PM
where can I order one new channel for the drivers side?

carrito
04-14-2011, 11:20 AM
i need to change mine ASAP, nice diy :D

polymorphic
05-04-2011, 06:48 PM
Just for those who may be confused, I ordered 72235-S5S-E02 and 72275-S5S-E02 from http://www.g1parts.com out of Houston for my '05 Si. Installed both in about an hour without removing the door panel or anything else. Pretty easy and silicone lube helps. Start by installing the end near the door handle first by pinching the runner in half, inserting the end into the channel and slowly push it down making sure the window stays in the center of the runner. You can gently pull the window in with your fingernail to line them up. Work up the door toward the other end until you get to the vertical channel behind the mirror. Insert the end of the runner into the run channel and slightly down into the door (the runner should be arced out now), then roll the window up until it contacts the runner. As long as the window aligns inside the runner, roll the window back down and insert the rest of the runner and smooth it out. Lube inside both vertical ends of the runner with silicone lube so the window glides up and down and you're done. If it is difficult to push the runner down into the door, lightly lube the outside of it and try again. Great write up, btw. It helped a lot.

bearcat91
05-16-2011, 01:40 PM
which is the part that runs up the back side(towards the back of the car) #5 or #10? thanks

black04siftw
06-30-2011, 07:37 AM
I just bought the parts to have this done at the dealer because I didn't want to eff up my windows, lol. May have to give this a shot. I'm bitter about the prices though, they charged me $180 for the parts... :eek:

polymorphic
07-01-2011, 11:32 AM
I just bought the parts to have this done at the dealer because I didn't want to eff up my windows, lol. May have to give this a shot. I'm bitter about the prices though, they charged me $180 for the parts... :eek:

Wow! Dealers really screw on prices! It's really not that difficult to do and you'll save the cash. Plus if u fail u can still bring it to a shop.

K20-power
07-01-2011, 02:36 PM
Thanks for the great diy, you saved me $150 :)

revned3182
09-20-2011, 06:35 AM
this happened to my driver side already. the first time i got it replaced by a professional window installer. i watched him put it on but he didn't remove the plastic door panel. but he did use a lot of lubricant to slide it in.

i think something is warped in my passenger window because it slides a little bit off when it's being closed to a point where the rubber on the top left corner (facing the passenger window from the outside) is bent inwards like its being crushed by the actual window when closed. its ok for now since its closes tight. but i find it annoying to look at. because the rubber is bent in.

i already bought the rubber channel for replacement, but im not going to put in the work to install it yet. not until it starts leaving a gap. as long as it seals tight ~ then its alright.

but when i do decide to put it on... im prolly not going to remove the plastic door panel anymore.

polymorphic
09-20-2011, 06:50 AM
This is my third door channel set for both sides and what you describe is what happened to my last 2. It looks like it's installed incorrectly, but it's actually just a defect in the channel and will eventually begin to split and break down. I've never seen any car with such a consistent defect in manufacturing for such a simple part.

K20-power
09-20-2011, 09:27 AM
this happened to my driver side already. the first time i got it replaced by a professional window installer. i watched him put it on but he didn't remove the plastic door panel. but he did use a lot of lubricant to slide it in.

i think something is warped in my passenger window because it slides a little bit off when it's being closed to a point where the rubber on the top left corner (facing the passenger window from the outside) is bent inwards like its being crushed by the actual window when closed. its ok for now since its closes tight. but i find it annoying to look at. because the rubber is bent in.

i already bought the rubber channel for replacement, but im not going to put in the work to install it yet. not until it starts leaving a gap. as long as it seals tight ~ then its alright.

but when i do decide to put it on... im prolly not going to remove the plastic door panel anymore.

The samething was happening to me, everytime I would roll up my window it used to be off and it would roll up on top of the rubber, well I took off my door panel and I found out the problem, the windows have 2 little tabs (in the middle of the door) that hold the window in place which also helps it go up and down in a straight line, well one of the my tabs was broken causing the window to go up unevenly, the way i fixed mine was by placing a zip tie where the broken tab was (in other words I made a new tab with the zip tie) and that fixed my problem, If I would have known people were also having problems with this I would have made a DIY. Oh and did you have this problem before you had the guy install the rubber seal? because they have to remove the door panel because if they dont the rubber seal will not fall into place correctly which may cause future problems like braking your tabs, damaging the window motor, etc....

To be honest I try fix all my car problems myself because some people (not all) care only about the money, they dont care if they do the job right or not in your case it may have been that the person that installed the rubber did not know much about installing rubber seals or just was too lazy to remove the door panel.

revned3182
09-21-2011, 12:25 PM
I just bought the parts to have this done at the dealer because I didn't want to eff up my windows, lol. May have to give this a shot. I'm bitter about the prices though, they charged me $180 for the parts... :eek:

$180!!! that's too much... i bought the passenger side for $45 tax included straight from the Honda stealership.
save me the labour cost by doing it myself.

ps notice how i've is spelled "labour"... eh... that's canadian price. lol

jayjeff333
12-15-2011, 07:54 PM
Hey! I just did my drivers today along with the actuator. Quick question. Hidden behind the door pannel dropped out 2 styrofoam yellow blocks. Do these have a use and should I put them back?

fdnyjon
06-04-2012, 08:00 PM
Good one man.

I will also be doing this one when i change my door actuators this week!

revned3182
10-01-2012, 08:45 AM
omg... this is making me pull my hair.
ive already replaced my passenger side window channel for the second time.
it's because the person who installed didnt open the door panels. just lubed the it and slid it in.
and now its fucked again!
its been a year since i last fucked with it.
so after a year of laziness... i finally got up and decided to replace it.
this time i did it my self... it was on purrrfect!
but guess what? my windows wouldnt close back up...
i thought it was time for me to replace my window regulator...
i almost bought another one... good thing i tried the new one first... but it still didnt work.
some how i got lucky when i shook the wires and it decided to close back up.

so its not the window channel being off
its not the window regluator...
its some electrical shit. faulty wires?

can anybody help me locate what i should be looking for?
or what to replace??? pleeease!!!

Jdmdomo
11-23-2012, 04:59 AM
Awesome information for me , at this moment .

shawoo
05-20-2013, 12:13 AM
I am doing this myself andjust received the replacement channel. I'm a little confused though.

How far down does the rubber go down on the window? I have the replacement part, and lining it up trying to imagine how it will install. I see where the corners go, but there is just a ton of extra length on each side...does the channel go straigh down into the door?

NEO_FOLLOWER2
08-18-2016, 03:15 PM
Drivers side window channel is getting trashed again. Do visors help protect them? if they do I'll probably get some when I do the channels again...if not then I'll replace the channels and then try to never roll down my windows anymore . :mfrown:

lastresort576
08-03-2017, 01:33 AM
Soo...I'm new here and new to ep3's. I know forum's are more or less dead now with FB groups(which I despise) And I hate to bump this thread, but any chance OP is still around and can edit first post with pix(if theyre still around) hosted some other place than photobucket? Photobucket just screwed nearly every forum's remaining how to sections with uncorrupted pictures.