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SiR_Qc_Pat
08-02-2008, 09:42 PM
K20/K24 Frank Build Need Pro Opinion !!!
I want to know what you think about my N/A Setup. Cuz I want to be sure

Don't forget Daily Driver !! My target : 250-280 Whp !!!!!!!
(**Drag 4-5 times in year**)
I Need to put on my EP3 03 so if I forget something feel free to write it !!!

Block:
CRV Passenger Side motor mount
K24A4 Block
CP Pistons 87.5mm 11.5:1
Pauter Rods
ACL Race Bearing
Balanced Crankshaft
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Baffle
K20a2 Oil Pan
Supertech Block Guard
TODA Timing Chain Tensioner
Head:
K20A2 Head
Port and Polish 330 CFM
Camshaft IPS KME
Supertech Valve Spring
Supertech Titanium Retainer
Supertech +1mm Black Valve dished
Hondata Heatshield
Blueprint racing RBC Intake Manifold (Flow up to 360 CFM)
Karcept RBC to PRB Adapter
BDL Throtle Body (66mm)
Rc Engineering Injector 550cc
Arp Head Stud

Transmission:
K20A3
Quaife LSD
2.9 Axles
Sixth gear and countershaft from TSX
Toda or Clutch Master and Flywheel

Exhaust 3 in K Teller
Headers tri-Y Toda, Buddyclub or SSR

Already have:

K24A4 Block
K20A2 Head
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Oil Pan
K20A2 Baffle
Blueprint Racing RBC Intake Manifold
Karcept Throttle Adapter
Hondata K-Pro
Hondata Heatshield
CP Pistons
Pauter Rods
Acl Race Bearing


My mod 4 now :
-Headers DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Coated
-Cat Hi-Flow JVT-R
-Cat-Back Apex I World Series
-Hondata K-Pro
-Air Intake Injen MR Series
-Short Shift adapter

bchaney
08-02-2008, 10:46 PM
I like it, I'm thinking about building a frank myself.

Have you gotten it dyno'd? What made you choose 11.5:1 CR?

dobbs02si
08-03-2008, 12:16 PM
I want to know what you think about my N/A Setup.
Don't forget Daily Driver !!
Block:
K24A4 Block
CP Pistons 87.5mm 11.5:1
Pauter Rods
ACL Race Bearing
Balanced Crankshaft
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Baffle
K20a2 Oil Pan

Head:
K20A2 Head
Port and Polish 330 CFM
TODA Spec A Camshaft OR IPS KME OR K2
Supertech Valve Spring
Supertech Titanium Retainer
Supertech +1mm Black Valve dished
Hondata Heatshield
Blueprint racing RBC Intake Manifold
Karcept RBC to PRB Adapter
BDL Throtle Body (66mm)
Rc Engineering Injector 600cc
Gas return line

Transmission:
K20A3
Quaife LSD
2.9 Axles
Sixth gear and countershaft from TSX
Toda or Competition Clutch and Flywheel

Umm..I hate you? haha. Hell no thats awesome!

Deadphishy
08-03-2008, 01:49 PM
I don't know if this is a mod list
Or a Wish list

lldiesel386ll
08-03-2008, 03:43 PM
I don't know if this is a mod list
Or a Wish list

:yeahthat:
if it is it sounds like an awesome setup. what kind of numbers are you putting up?

Guardian
08-03-2008, 04:06 PM
I don't know if this is a mod list
Or a Wish list

yeah im not so sure

tieu
08-04-2008, 06:33 AM
yea... thats alot of $

SiR_Qc_Pat
08-06-2008, 09:14 PM
Not a Wish List it's reality!!!!!! :mtongue:

clizoman
08-06-2008, 10:40 PM
go IPS...

b.r.i.a.n.
08-07-2008, 08:44 AM
K20/K24 Frank Build Need Pro Opinion !!!
I want to know what you think about my N/A Setup. Cuz I want to be sure

Don't forget Daily Driver !! My target : 250-280 Whp !!!!!!!
(**Drag 4-5 times in year**)
I Need to put on my EP3 03 so if I forget something feel free to write it !!!

Block:
CRV Passenger Side motor mount
K24A4 Block
CP Pistons 87.5mm 11.5:1
Pauter Rods
ACL Race Bearing
Balanced Crankshaft
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Baffle
K20a2 Oil Pan
Supertech Block Guard

Head:
K20A2 Head
Port and Polish 330 CFM
TODA Spec A Camshaft OR IPS KME ??
Supertech Valve Spring
Supertech Titanium Retainer
Supertech +1mm Black Valve dished
Hondata Heatshield
Blueprint racing RBC Intake Manifold (Flow up to 360 CFM)
Karcept RBC to PRB Adapter
BDL Throtle Body (66mm) really need???
Rc Engineering Injector 550cc really need??? or RDX 410cc is ok?
Gas return line really need???
Arp Head Stud

Transmission:
K20A3
Quaife LSD
2.9 Axles
Sixth gear and countershaft from TSX
Toda or Competition Clutch and Flywheel

Exhaust 3 po K Teller
Headers tri-Y Toda, Buddyclub or SSR

Already have:

K24A4 Block
K20A2 Head
K20A2 Oil Pump
K20A2 Oil Pan
K20A2 Baffle
Blueprint Racing RBC Intake Manifold
Karcept Throttle Adapter
Hondata K-Pro
Hondata Heatshield
CP Pistons
Pauter Rods
Acl Race Bearing


My mod 4 now :
-Headers DC Sports 4-2-1 Ceramic Coated
-Cat Hi-Flow JVT-R
-Cat-Back Apex I World Series
-Hondata K-Pro
-Air Intake Injen MR Series
-Short Shift adapter

as far as the cams go, go with the ips kme's. i would go with higher compression. you can get away with 93 on 12:5:1 compression ratio with a good tune. as far as the race header, go with either an ssr or hytech race header. then mate that to any 3 inch custom exhaust. skip on the head porting and the valves. intake, header, exhaust, cams , rbc intake manifold and your bottom end with 12:5:1 compression ratio should be more than enough to bump you over the 250 whp range.

SiR_Qc_Pat
08-07-2008, 01:30 PM
Only 91 pump gas here :mcry:

davisj3537
08-07-2008, 02:19 PM
Ips cams all the way. You need the 550cc injectors but not the fuel line. SSR header all the way. Competition clutch. Swap that 5spd for a 6spd and save the money you would spend on putting in the tsx 6th. It will be faster anyway. I vote get the new throttle body. You could even branch out to a 70mm. I think it will run good on 91 pump gas. Not great but it should run good.

SiR_Qc_Pat
08-07-2008, 04:21 PM
Ips cams all the way. You need the 550cc injectors but not the fuel line. SSR header all the way. Competition clutch. Swap that 5spd for a 6spd and save the money you would spend on putting in the tsx 6th. It will be faster anyway. I vote get the new throttle body. You could even branch out to a 70mm. I think it will run good on 91 pump gas. Not great but it should run good.

a guys on clubep3 say me : also you might want to get Chunky's modded Timing Chain Tensioner.

as for the clutch, I have competition and I'm not really fond of it. It's stage 2 and it feels like a stage 10340131 . I hear clutchmasters is very good.

If I don't put gas return line
BDL Fuel Rail ???
Hydraulic Pulsation Damper http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php

and for the six speed see :http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0507ht_honda_civic_si_gearbox/index.html
or
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32686

lldiesel386ll
08-07-2008, 05:20 PM
Swap that 5spd for a 6spd and save the money you would spend on putting in the tsx 6th. It will be faster anyway.

i totally agree about the 6 speed being faster than the 5 speed, but do you really think that getting a 6 speed would be saving money? i think all the parts i needed to put my tsx 6th only required under 300 in parts :shrug:. if you do all the work yourself it isnt all too bad i think money-wise. i've driven the car about 5000 miles now btw with that gear and everything still works:mtongue:

davisj3537
08-08-2008, 07:34 AM
a guys on clubep3 say me : also you might want to get Chunky's modded Timing Chain Tensioner.

as for the clutch, I have competition and I'm not really fond of it. It's stage 2 and it feels like a stage 10340131 . I hear clutchmasters is very good.

If I don't put gas return line
BDL Fuel Rail ???
Hydraulic Pulsation Damper http://www.injector.com/fueldampers.php

and for the six speed see :http://www.hondatuningmagazine.com/tech/0507ht_honda_civic_si_gearbox/index.html
or
http://www.k20a.org/forum/showthread.php?t=32686

Chunky's modded tensioner works good from what I hear. There is also another company that makes one now that keep it from twisting which is another important issue when it comes to fucking up the teeth on them. Clutchmasters does make a good clutch as well. I ran stages 1-4 and loved my comp stage 2 but it is personaly preference I guess. You can keep the stock fuel rail and be fine. aftermarket fuel rails are primarily for looks unless you get a return line or need another port for some reason. I did a tsx swap in the tranny on my last one and know how it works. I still vote 6spd since the 1-2 gears are longer to help with traction off the line and then the other gears are a tad shorter to keep you going faster and then you don't have to worry about the tsx gear grinding or anything which is a very common issue. Don't waste your money on the pulsation damper...

i totally agree about the 6 speed being faster than the 5 speed, but do you really think that getting a 6 speed would be saving money? i think all the parts i needed to put my tsx 6th only required under 300 in parts :shrug:. if you do all the work yourself it isnt all too bad i think money-wise. i've driven the car about 5000 miles now btw with that gear and everything still works:mtongue:

Well a good 5spd goes for 600 and the good 6spd goes for 800-900 and then you don't have to do the labor not to mention the pros and cons I listed above. Hell some people trade straight up 5 for 6:mcool:

SiR_Qc_Pat
08-08-2008, 08:07 PM
For the tranny i already have my k20a3 on my car just swap the sixth from tsx labor cheap here :mwink:

Ba82Ep3
08-08-2008, 08:50 PM
i totally agree about the 6 speed being faster than the 5 speed, but do you really think that getting a 6 speed would be saving money? i think all the parts i needed to put my tsx 6th only required under 300 in parts :shrug:. if you do all the work yourself it isnt all too bad i think money-wise. i've driven the car about 5000 miles now btw with that gear and everything still works:mtongue:

Do you have a DIY on this... or anything giving a detailed parts listing? Even the shims i read that may or may not be needed. Im soon to attempt my first tranny rebuild with 6th added, and would like to have NO surprises going into it.

lldiesel386ll
08-08-2008, 09:11 PM
Do you have a DIY on this... or anything giving a detailed parts listing? Even the shims i read that may or may not be needed. Im soon to attempt my first tranny rebuild with 6th added, and would like to have NO surprises going into it.

i'm pretty sure i posted up a few parts lists around somewhere on these forums. if not, there are a number of good posts on the transmission section on k20a.org (namely the transmission rebuild sticky), as well as a pseudo-diy on the honda element forums--i think its elementownersclub.com. in addition to those threads, a good impact wrench, a feeler gauge, your average set of tools, a hydraulic press, some liquid gasket, and the shop manual for the rsx s are all very useful tools if you want to do it yourself :thumbu:

honestly the shims would be good to look into, but if you are going to be meticulous like that (ie follow the shop manual to the 't') you are going to end up replacing synchros out the whazoo. i personally didnt go that route, and after about 5k miles (driving to miami and bloomington indiana from central jersey in a period of 2 weeks) everything is working out perfectly fine :nervous:

lets just hope i didnt jynx it by saying that:scared: hope that helps:mcool: