DIY: Valve Clearance Check / Adjustment

[shanewdude]

I did this following the instructions in the service manual (http://www.ephatch.com/forum/showthread.php?t=44979).

The manual says to do it every 110k or if the valve train is "noisy" (thanks Anrasmor for looking it up).
This should be done after rebuilding an engine before starting it, and again about 500 miles later (thanks Deadphishy).

1. Make sure your engine bay is pretty clean; you don't want to drop any dirt or sand into the engine. The cylinder head also MUST BE COOL (under 100 F or 38 C).

2. Jack and support the front end of your car and remove the passenger side front tire.

3. Remove the intake manifold cover: 2 bolts
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve01.jpg

4. Remove the cover over the ignition coils; be careful not to drop the spacers under the two outside bolts. Underneath, there will be two ignition coils still bolted on; remove those two bolts.
[http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve02.jpg

5. Remove the breather hose (I'm pointing to it below). I had to remove my air box cover to get the breather hose off (the ratchet is on one of the ignition coil bolts).
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve03.jpg

6. Remove the ignition coils. Pull up and loosen them, then you can twist the coil so you have enough grip on the release clip to remove the wire harness. (Sorry about the blurry pic)
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve04.jpg

7. Remove the six cap nuts holding the valve cover on. I also removed the washers to make it easier to pull off. Remove your dipstick, too.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve05.jpg

The valve cover should lift off with a little bit of tugging. If you have a spare pair of hands around, it might help to keep hoses and your throttle cable out of the way. Now, inspect your cams for gauling. None here!
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve06.jpg

8. Use a 19mm socket and long extension (you may need to use more than one extension) to turn the crank shaft. I used my 25" breaker bar instead of a ratchet to turn the crank, and it was very easy. You might be able to get at this without removing the wheel. Also, if you take out the spark plugs, you can turn the crank more easily (with a 25" breaker bar on the extension I had no trouble turning the crank with the plugs in!).
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve07.jpg

Turn the crank until the arrow on the VTC actuator is up, the punch mark on the exhaust camshaft sprocket is up, and then align the two marks on each sprocket so they match up. This give you top dead centre (TDC) for cylinder one (passenger side).
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve08.jpg

9. Here are the gauges I used for the intake side. The specification for the gap is 0.008 to 0.010 inches. Notice I have one in the middle, too. The exhaust gap should be from 0.011 to 0.013 inches. DON'T TAKE MY WORD FOR IT; MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE RIGHT ONES.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve09.jpg

10. I put a bend in each of the gauges I intended to use to make it easier to fit them in between the valve stem and adjusting screw. There should be some drag on the gauge when you slide it back and forth. You should NOT be able to get the next gauge up in the gap (ie the 0.011" on the intake side).
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve10.jpg

11. If you do need to adjust the gap, I suggest using the .010 or .009 in the gap while you use a 10mm wrench to loosen the lock nut and a slot screwdriver to turn the adjuster. If you make if just snug enough on the larger gauge so you can still pull it out, it should be just right when you check the gap again.

This step requires a light touch. Loosen the lock nut with the wrench, then GENTLY turn the screwdriver a bit each way. You will be able to feel the adjuster connecting with your gauge. If you haven't done this before, take your time getting a feel for the right amount of tension on the adjuster screw that gives you the right gap.

Tighten the lock nut, then CHECK THE GAP AGAIN.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve11.jpg
**Note: There is a really cool tool for doing this step... it's a deep socket with the handle offset to the side, and you can access the adjustment screw through the top of the socket.

12. Check and adjust exhaust side, cylinder 1.
13. Rotate the crank 180 degrees clockwise (camshaft pulley rotates 90 degrees) and check CYLINDER THREE clearances.
14. Rotate crank 180 degrees clockwise and check cylinder FOUR.
15. Rotate crank 180 degrees clockwise and check cylinder TWO.

16. Install the valve cover in the reverse order that you took it apart. CHECK THE MANUAL for the order you need to tighten the bolts. I suggest using a torque wrench; many people have broken these in the past. You tighten them in 2 or 3 steps, in the right order (shown in the manual).

I bought a new gasket THAT DID NOT FIT, thanks Honda. You also need some gasket maker.
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve13.jpg

Clean the old gasket material where it is left on the engine, and apply the liquid gasket to the following spots (copy the spots from the old gasket if you can).
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve15.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve16.jpg
http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh280/shanewdude/Valve%20Clearance/valve17.jpg

Don't forget to re-install the passenger side wheel before you drive away. Remember you are supposed to re-check the torque on your lug nuts after driving a little bit.

**IF YOU'RE GOING TO COPY THIS DIY, PLEASE AT LEAST CREDIT EPHATCH AS THE SOURCE**

[shanewdude]

Pics updated! I also added a few notes based on what I remember from the previous discussions.

[Deadphishy]

We should also note that on a fresh motor or head, Do the Valve lash before you crank the key, then do it again after 500 miles. Still a great write up.

[goldEp]

We should also note that on a fresh motor or head, Do the Valve lash before you crank the key, then do it again after 500 miles. Still a great write up.

valve lash..????

[BeaterEP]

valve lash..????

Think that's just another way of saying valve clearance.
Glad this write-up is back! Thanks for re-posting man! :thumbu:

[Anrasmor]

How often are you supposed to adjust the valves? Only time we ever adjusted on BMW's and VW's were when they were noisy. They say like every 75k but honestly it depends on how high of rpm the car ever sees.


Never mind. I just downloaded the service manual. It's every 110k unless noisy.

[shanewdude]

We should also note that on a fresh motor or head, Do the Valve lash before you crank the key, then do it again after 500 miles. Still a great write up.
Added to first post, thanks!


Think that's just another way of saying valve clearance.
Glad this write-up is back! Thanks for re-posting man! :thumbu:
:thumbu: It just kills me I mis-spelled "originally", lol!


How often are you supposed to adjust the valves? Only time we ever adjusted on BMW's and VW's were when they were noisy. They say like every 75k but honestly it depends on how high of rpm the car ever sees.


Never mind. I just downloaded the service manual. It's every 110k unless noisy.
I'll add that too to the first post, thanks for looking it up!

[dear adamantium]

any suggestions if you cant get the locknut lose? Ive tried a penatrating lube and everything...

[neoamd]

Thanks for this also. Doing this soon! Will post more info after I get a few more parts in!

[BeaterEP]

Found a link for the valve adjustment tool. Not sure if it's the one originally discussed in the prior thread, but looks good. Picking one up as we speak :biggrin1:
Valve Adjustment Tool - 10mm (http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1298578367&sr=1-1)

[blue2turbo]

This is definitely good to have, the pics make it seem 100x easier. Thanks!

[Blue03Si]

Found a link for the valve adjustment tool. Not sure if it's the one originally discussed in the prior thread, but looks good. Picking one up as we speak :biggrin1:
Valve Adjustment Tool - 10mm (http://www.amazon.com/Alltrade-648827-2-Inch-Valve-Adjustment/dp/B0002Q8TU0/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1298578367&sr=1-1)

I have the same tool. It helps, but its still a PITA trying to get the feeler gauge in there, adjust it, then lock it. UGH.

[BeaterEP]

Yeah, I hear ya. Just getting that gauge to lay flat across the surface is kind of a nightmare LOL. Intake side isn't usually too bad for me, but the exhaust side is a bitch! Leaning way over the engine, and the way the motor tilts back a little...ugh, hate it.
Not looking forward to doing this again once I get the cams replaced LOL.
le sigh.

[03Si757]

Yeah, I hear ya. Just getting that gauge to lay flat across the surface is kind of a nightmare LOL. Intake side isn't usually too bad for me, but the exhaust side is a bitch! Leaning way over the engine, and the way the motor tilts back a little...ugh, hate it.
Not looking forward to doing this again once I get the cams replaced LOL.
le sigh.

ya goodluck with this, took me 3 trys before i finally got it right, exhaust side is a bitch forsure

[rd02SiR]

My buddy who is a Honda technician just helped me out with this today.

2002 k20a3
186xxx km
Amsoil 5-30 since about 100k and went synthetic at 75k.
Stock internals
Basic bolt ons
Kpro base map

First thing he noticed was that the rockers(?) were loose, what could have been causing the terrible ticking/clicking noise.

There was no significant cam galling that we noticed. It was visibly worn, but not grooved or pitted.

Did the lash adjustment, checked plugs. Cylinder 3 plug was a bit loose and the coilpack had some crud on it. Will probably change plugs and find a new coilpack or two.

Car now runs MUCH quieter and smoother. It doesn't sound like a sewing machine anymore!!


Sent from my awful auto correcting iPhone using Tapatalk

[FutureEpDriver]

Fantastic guide! I used this today to do my valve job, never done one before, pretty simple though. The only tip I can offer is getting the spark plug gaskets out was a b. I ended up going to autozone to borrow a special tool of theirs for it (it was some kind of puller), the guy there told me I could just bang them out with a flatty and screwdriver though.

Thanks again!

[05ep3si]

where is everyone buying their feeler gauges from? any links would be very helpfull

[Blue03Si]

where is everyone buying their feeler gauges from? any links would be very helpfull

You should be able to find them at any auto-part store. I got mine on amazon forever ago (http://amzn.com/B000BYD93A).