spydur
08-13-2008, 09:58 AM
This was posted on clubep3.net on 6/2/08. It looks like a good idea. Has anyone had any experience with this bracket or have any knowledge of its availability or where it can be obtained? I tried to copy the posting with the pictures, but the pics did not copy.
http://forums.clubep3.net/showthread.php?t=574505
Steerimg Arm Bracket Review & DIY
Been a while since I made a showing on here. Got an internship doing Rocket Design this summer, so its been a bit hectic. Here we go.
Anyway, I installed the correctional steering bracket designed by 0857 on ClubRSX. Here are pics of the piece.
The general idea behind this piece is to raise the location in which the steering arms connect to the steering rack. The raise in connection height reduces the angle at which the steering arm sits. No longer will you have an extreme upwards V shape. This helps eliminate the bump steer that is associated with dropped cars.
Here is a picture comparing the 0857 bracket to the stock bracket.
Youll need the following parts:
-2x # 53536 S5A 900 (crush washer)
-2x # 53662 S5A 003 (o-ring)
-1x # 53535 S5A 900 (lock washer)
Parts Layout
I had my motor out of the car for a different install, but this CAN be done without removing your motor. I am going to leave out some steps, but Ive linked the PDF for those of you who want a more in depth guide for each step.
General DIY.
-Youll need to remove your header and place it aside.
-Now get your tie rods loosened from teh strut assembly. Get them off and let them hang aside. (DO NOT HAMMER THE TIE ROD SHAFT)
-Next youll want to loosen up the crush washers. You can locate them by following the tie rod arms to the middle of the car. That bent up metal disc needs to be pried back to a normal-ish straight disc.
-Once you get them semi straightened, take out a large wrench and get to loosening the tie rod arms,
-After getting them off, proceed on removing the bracket. Its only two bolts.
-Replace the worn parts (crush/lock washers and o rings) with the new parts you bought as you start putting the parts back in.
The tq specs for the parts can be found on the HELMS manual. Here is a PDF link for those of you who dont have it yet.
Here is the final result. Not on my car, but mine sits identically.
The car feels great. No bump steer. I honestly think this is a must for anyone with a drop who is also doing a trans or motor install. Do it while you have the extra space.
Those of you with small drops will be ok, but the ones with 1.5+ drops would really benefit from this. Doing it with the motor in will probably take a littler longer, but it is still very doable.
Ill keep you guys posted with any updates.
S P Y D U R
SAIL-ON!
http://forums.clubep3.net/showthread.php?t=574505
Steerimg Arm Bracket Review & DIY
Been a while since I made a showing on here. Got an internship doing Rocket Design this summer, so its been a bit hectic. Here we go.
Anyway, I installed the correctional steering bracket designed by 0857 on ClubRSX. Here are pics of the piece.
The general idea behind this piece is to raise the location in which the steering arms connect to the steering rack. The raise in connection height reduces the angle at which the steering arm sits. No longer will you have an extreme upwards V shape. This helps eliminate the bump steer that is associated with dropped cars.
Here is a picture comparing the 0857 bracket to the stock bracket.
Youll need the following parts:
-2x # 53536 S5A 900 (crush washer)
-2x # 53662 S5A 003 (o-ring)
-1x # 53535 S5A 900 (lock washer)
Parts Layout
I had my motor out of the car for a different install, but this CAN be done without removing your motor. I am going to leave out some steps, but Ive linked the PDF for those of you who want a more in depth guide for each step.
General DIY.
-Youll need to remove your header and place it aside.
-Now get your tie rods loosened from teh strut assembly. Get them off and let them hang aside. (DO NOT HAMMER THE TIE ROD SHAFT)
-Next youll want to loosen up the crush washers. You can locate them by following the tie rod arms to the middle of the car. That bent up metal disc needs to be pried back to a normal-ish straight disc.
-Once you get them semi straightened, take out a large wrench and get to loosening the tie rod arms,
-After getting them off, proceed on removing the bracket. Its only two bolts.
-Replace the worn parts (crush/lock washers and o rings) with the new parts you bought as you start putting the parts back in.
The tq specs for the parts can be found on the HELMS manual. Here is a PDF link for those of you who dont have it yet.
Here is the final result. Not on my car, but mine sits identically.
The car feels great. No bump steer. I honestly think this is a must for anyone with a drop who is also doing a trans or motor install. Do it while you have the extra space.
Those of you with small drops will be ok, but the ones with 1.5+ drops would really benefit from this. Doing it with the motor in will probably take a littler longer, but it is still very doable.
Ill keep you guys posted with any updates.
S P Y D U R
SAIL-ON!