I think I have an elf living where the dipstick is, wiping it off.

[jaydub]

I did my first oil change today @ 3500 miles (not at 483 miles like Trippz did) and put on a new drain plug washer, blah blah, and dumped four quarts into the motor. I put another half of a quart in, and so far, no oil is registering on the dipstick. It's showing up faintly, but it's surely not between the two dots.

I think I need some pipe cleaners to weed out the little gremlin or elf which keeps wiping off my dipstick on the way up... :mad:

Is it just me?! :D

[ssvr6]

4 quarts? I thought we took more than that?

I just looked at my service receipt and yes, they put in 4 quarts.

I guess it's just you.

:)

Steve

[jaydub]

:D dammit! :D

[02blksi]

clean oil can be hard to see look at the dipstick carefully at some different angles hopefully then youll see it, if not drive around the block let the car cool and then check again :) that little troll doesnt like it when the engines running so he'll be hiding when you go to check it after a drive LOL .

[ep3guy]

Originally posted by jaydub
I did my first oil change today @ 3500 miles (not at 483 miles like Trippz did) and put on a new drain plug washer, blah blah, and dumped four quarts into the motor. I put another half of a quart in, and so far, no oil is registering on the dipstick. It's showing up faintly, but it's surely not between the two dots.

I think I need some pipe cleaners to weed out the little gremlin or elf which keeps wiping off my dipstick on the way up... :mad:

Is it just me?! :D

do you guys get better gas mileage once you change the oil on the car? im still getting about 20mpg, kinda sucks... i usually shift about at 2.5-3k.

[PwrDbyB&K]

why are you changing your oil soooo early. You aren't even supposed to think about it untill 5k. The dealership said DONT. You have to let the motor break in @ 5k then change the oil. :D

[IceD out N CALI]

Originally posted by ep3guy


do you guys get better gas mileage once you change the oil on the car? im still getting about 20mpg, kinda sucks... i usually shift about at 2.5-3k.


i'm up around 27ish. 20mpg is not good. do u do a lot of stop and go driving? or highway?

[jaydub]

Originally posted by PwrDbyB&K
why are you changing your oil soooo early. You aren't even supposed to think about it untill 5k. The dealership said DONT. You have to let the motor break in @ 5k then change the oil. :D

I generally ignore what the dealership says. :D Actually I'm kidding. I adhere to my own oil change intervals, starting @ 4k miles and every 4k miles thereafter (I use full synth).

[ep3guy]

Originally posted by IceD out N CALI



i'm up around 27ish. 20mpg is not good. do u do a lot of stop and go driving? or highway?

lots of stop and go, still on break in oil..

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by ep3guy


do you guys get better gas mileage once you change the oil on the car? im still getting about 20mpg, kinda sucks... i usually shift about at 2.5-3k.

I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that you shift at a higher RPM to IMPROVE, yes, IMPROVE your fuel efficiency. In most situations, this is the opposite of what is true. But you are shifting really low...if you come out of a gear at 2.5k rpm, then I'd assume you are in the next gear starting at around 1.5k rpm...In 2nd or 3rd gear, you would have to apply excessive throttle to get decent acceleration. There is very little torque at those lower RPMs which means you will have to apply more throttle to accelerate normally. IMHO, you are not using the most efficent RPM range for normal driving. I typically shift at 3500-4000 and still get good mileage (25-27mpg).

Furthermore, its my opinion (after putting 8000 miles on my EP all myself) that the tranny in this car is meant to be shifted around 3700 rpm. It seems more willing to make a smooth transition between gears, and requires a less subtle clutch technique.

[ep3guy]

Originally posted by cbecker333


I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that you shift at a higher RPM to IMPROVE, yes, IMPROVE your fuel efficiency. In most situations, this is the opposite of what is true. But you are shifting really low...if you come out of a gear at 2.5k rpm, then I'd assume you are in the next gear starting at around 1.5k rpm...In 2nd or 3rd gear, you would have to apply excessive throttle to get decent acceleration. There is very little torque at those lower RPMs which means you will have to apply more throttle to accelerate normally. IMHO, you are not using the most efficent RPM range for normal driving. I typically shift at 3500-4000 and still get good mileage (25-27mpg).

thanks, i guess ill try this out.

[IceD out N CALI]

Originally posted by ep3guy


lots of stop and go, still on break in oil..


yeah that pretty much explains it but i'd still expect it to be a little better than 20 though

[moeman]

IceD,
i just looked in the service manual and it says:
5.6 US qt for engine overhaul
4.4 US qt for oil change, including filter
4.2 US qt for oil change, without filter

hope this helps.:D
m

[civic hatch boi]

Originally posted by cbecker333


I'm gonna go out on a limb and suggest that you shift at a higher RPM to IMPROVE, yes, IMPROVE your fuel efficiency. In most situations, this is the opposite of what is true. But you are shifting really low...if you come out of a gear at 2.5k rpm, then I'd assume you are in the next gear starting at around 1.5k rpm...In 2nd or 3rd gear, you would have to apply excessive throttle to get decent acceleration. There is very little torque at those lower RPMs which means you will have to apply more throttle to accelerate normally. IMHO, you are not using the most efficent RPM range for normal driving. I typically shift at 3500-4000 and still get good mileage (25-27mpg).

Furthermore, its my opinion (after putting 8000 miles on my EP all myself) that the tranny in this car is meant to be shifted around 3700 rpm. It seems more willing to make a smooth transition between gears, and requires a less subtle clutch technique.

yeah he's right. i used to shift at 3k, got 21mpg.. now i get like 25-26 cuz i shift at 3.5-4.. manual says to shift around 3.4-3.5

[sonic imperial]

Quick question - is it better to get your oil level up to the "upper mark" on the dipstick or is halfway between the two holes sufficient? The manual just says to add oil if it gets at or near the bottom hole. Just curious because my oil level is right at the upper mark or maybe just slightly below it.

[kenis138]

I usually keep her up round the top of the operating range.
For the record, I usually shift around 5. Oh, except for the first ride home from the dealership, I kept in 2nd gear the whole time, is that bad? Even on the highway?

Juuuuuuusssst bustin azz.;)

[sonic imperial]

That's cool. I had my oil changed by honda a few weeks back and when I checked the oil it was near the bottom hole. I questioned the service tech the other day and he said they always put the exact amount for the car. That may be true but if that's the case it didn't come anywhere near the top mark. They gave me a bottle of honda 5w-20 and I topped it off myself.

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by sonic imperial
That's cool. I had my oil changed by honda a few weeks back and when I checked the oil it was near the bottom hole. I questioned the service tech the other day and he said they always put the exact amount for the car. That may be true but if that's the case it didn't come anywhere near the top mark. They gave me a bottle of honda 5w-20 and I topped it off myself.

I just did my first oil change, and I poured in exaclty the volume the book says - 4.4 quarts. The oil level was right in the middle of the two dots. I'm going to leave it alone for now, and only top off when its at or below the lower dot.

[Jpax]

jaydub i put 5 quarts in my car. i did the same thing. after 4 quarts i started the motor let it run for a bit (10mins) then shut it off and went inside to let it set. came back out next morning and it was at the Very bottom marker. not empty but a quart low. so i added anthor one and she sits pirtty. :D

[dohcivtec02]

The best way to see the oil when it is clean and hard to see is, take a paper towel and after you pull the dipstick out, lay it on the paper towel. the oil will soak in where it is on the dipstick. move the stick next to where the oil is and see where it is in reation to the marks.
clean oil can be hard to see look at the dipstick carefully at some different angles hopefully then youll see it

[MCeez02Si]

The "break-in" period of 5k is way too puzzling: They say to let the engine "break-in", do not change the oil for 5k. WHY 5k? Let's say there are metal particles and what-not in the new engine. Isn't it bad for it to circulate and scar any of the internals? Wouldn't it be a better idea to drain after 1k or so to get all of that crap out? hmmm.

Also, FYI - I went to a local Honda dealer a couple of weeks ago and wanted to get a qt. of "break-in" oil. The dudes said to put the 5w-20 in, as this is what they always use to top off the oil, even on new vehicles. I asked what is exactly "break-in" oil, and they just said it's a thinner oil.

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by MCeez02Si
The "break-in" period of 5k is way too puzzling: They say to let the engine "break-in", do not change the oil for 5k. WHY 5k? Let's say there are metal particles and what-not in the new engine. Isn't it bad for it to circulate and scar any of the internals? Wouldn't it be a better idea to drain after 1k or so to get all of that crap out? hmmm.

Also, FYI - I went to a local Honda dealer a couple of weeks ago and wanted to get a qt. of "break-in" oil. The dudes said to put the 5w-20 in, as this is what they always use to top off the oil, even on new vehicles. I asked what is exactly "break-in" oil, and they just said it's a thinner oil.

I'm pretty sure its not a thinner oil. My honda dealer's service people seem to be out of the loop on whats really going on. The best explanation I got out of them was that there were "better tolerances" in this new engine design, and that there was special break-in additives in the oil that were there to "harden engine parts". I got spanked when I repeated this on a forum, because there are NO chemicals you can add to oil that will do such things. Thats why you can't go out and buy break-in oil, even from the dealer.

The dealer claims there are additives in the first 5 quarts of oil, and this is partially true, as the factory oil comes with more moly additive than regular honda motor oil. BUT, moly is not at all magical or special, its a chemical that's in most conventional motor oils. Anyway, all of this careful misinformation means fewer oil changes for the dealer, which means more money for the dealer. Honda's documentation says an interval of 5000 miles is "recommended", but its up to you to decide if you want the increased protection of a shorter oil change interval. The dealer worked very hard to convince me not to change my oil until 5000 the first time, because they like more money and less work.

[TrippZ]

Originally posted by jaydub
I did my first oil change today @ 3500 miles (not at 483 miles like Trippz did) and put on a new drain plug washer, blah blah, and dumped four quarts into the motor. I put another half of a quart in, and so far, no oil is registering on the dipstick. It's showing up faintly, but it's surely not between the two dots.

I think I need some pipe cleaners to weed out the little gremlin or elf which keeps wiping off my dipstick on the way up... :mad:

Is it just me?! :D

fuck you asshole

[sonic imperial]

But since honda "recommends" this at 5000 miles (for severe conditions I might add), wouldn't it seem feasible that changing it every 5000 would be suitable to make your car last a long time? If my car isn't going to last much longer changing it every 3000 versus 5000 then why bother? Is there any proof that 3000 miles vs. 5000 miles makes a big difference? Just wondering.

[cbecker333]

Originally posted by sonic imperial
But since honda "recommends" this at 5000 miles (for severe conditions I might add), wouldn't it seem feasible that changing it every 5000 would be suitable to make your car last a long time? If my car isn't going to last much longer changing it every 3000 versus 5000 then why bother? Is there any proof that 3000 miles vs. 5000 miles makes a big difference? Just wondering.

I think its hard to prove 3000 vs 5000 for our cars, given the young age of most k-series engines out there, but oil will always perform less optimally at an age of 5000 miles than it will at 3000 miles, even if the difference is very small.

[jaydub]

Originally posted by TrippZ


fuck you asshole

I love you too.

[Jpax]

I try and change my oil every 3500-4000 miles. thats it. :D

[IceD out N CALI]

5k is what i'm gonna stick to:)

[pocketrocket]

Sheeet.. You best watch out Jaydub. Trippz gonna stick some of those blindspot mirrors on your ride. Just so you can watch yo' back.

[jaydub]

Originally posted by pocketrocket
Sheeet.. You best watch out Jaydub. Trippz gonna stick some of those blindspot mirrors on your ride. Just so you can watch yo' back.

ROFL!

[ssvr6]

Originally posted by pocketrocket
Sheeet.. You best watch out Jaydub. Trippz gonna stick some of those blindspot mirrors on your ride. Just so you can watch yo' back.

Crap, I need that! Haven't laughed out loud all day.

What a great list of mods.


Steve

[cbecker333]

Whats greater is that it keeps getting mentioned like this, but doesn't ever seem to get any shorter. Most people would take the hint and stop wasting others' screen space. I did.

[SiR Medic]

I know this is getting off topic... But in honor of Trippz here is my mod list...

____________________________

MODS:

Ractive pedals,
OEM Floormats,
Canadian Tire rubber mats with kewl dragons on them,
Oskar windsheild scraper,
Case Logic CD Wallet,
Tinted Liscene Plate Cover
Stainless Steel Liscence Plate Bolts
Rain-X on all mirrors and windows and lights
1 litre of Quaker State 5W20
Irving Oil gasoline
Jumper Cables
Some dirt in the drivers side footwell
some lint in the back seat
Jug of windsheild washer in the trunk
Salt stains on exterior
Some salt inside
Stainless Steel Coffee mug
Some snow on exterior
My ass groove in driver seat
Beginings of my friends ass grooves in passenger and rear seats
Motorola StarTac Cell Phone car charger
Armor-All low gloss on Dash and doors
3M Scotch Guard on all fabric (including floors and trunk)
Some french fry crumbs under the driver's seat



There! I think that's everything!

[chunky]

Originally posted by cbecker333


I'm pretty sure its not a thinner oil. My honda dealer's service people seem to be out of the loop on whats really going on. The best explanation I got out of them was that there were "better tolerances" in this new engine design, and that there was special break-in additives in the oil that were there to "harden engine parts". I got spanked when I repeated this on a forum, because there are NO chemicals you can add to oil that will do such things. Thats why you can't go out and buy break-in oil, even from the dealer.

The dealer claims there are additives in the first 5 quarts of oil, and this is partially true, as the factory oil comes with more moly additive than regular honda motor oil. BUT, moly is not at all magical or special, its a chemical that's in most conventional motor oils. Anyway, all of this careful misinformation means fewer oil changes for the dealer, which means more money for the dealer. Honda's documentation says an interval of 5000 miles is "recommended", but its up to you to decide if you want the increased protection of a shorter oil change interval. The dealer worked very hard to convince me not to change my oil until 5000 the first time, because they like more money and less work.

where did you hear that factory fill oils have more moly in them? That would be totally against the purpose of a breakin oil. Moly is an anti-wear additive, during the breakin period, you are essentially trying to accelerate wear for a short period of time. This allows all the parts and seals to seat properly. There are additives that help the piston rings and valve seals seat properly - this is not a myth. If you drain the break in oil before 3000 miles, you will notice that your engine burns a lot of oil - this is b/c the rings & seals did not have the chance to seat properly under the breakin oil. Sometimes the condition will get better with age, other times it will get much worse with age.

i would definitely leave the breakin oil for no less than 3000 miles and no more than 5000 miles.

Also, by the time the oil level is down to the bottom dot on the dipstick, you're already 1 qt down. when it's halfway, you're 1/2 quart down from full. Why anyone would want to run their motor knowningly low on oil is beyond me. I do all my own maintenance, and for oil changes, I always start with about 4.5 quarts, and end up topping it off to 5 quarts almost exactly. that puts it right at the top dot. and then it stays there till my next oil change. No burning oil for me :D

[sonic imperial]

That's where I'm trying to keep mine is at the top dot. I assume that means this is the "full" mark and you should try to stay as close to that mark as possible without going over it.