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SinisterCivicSi
03-21-2010, 08:29 PM
DIY: 5 Lug Swap Conversion - 02/03 ep with 02/03 DC5 Type S Parts

this is generation three. this DIY has been tweeked with minor changes so do your own work at your own risk. this is a suggestion, not step for step directions. Make sure you research your parts and compatibility to your car, suspension, rims, etc. Makre SURE the parts you plan on putting on - WORK - before putting them on your car. this is your BRAKING system... don't half ass it. With that said - HAVE A BLAST! And have airtools... LOL :mredface:


Parts Needed for this swap:

* Type - S 5 lug full swap. (if you get 02-03 type s setup for the same model year ep, then you can use
your ep brake lines & lca's
* Type S Axles 02-03 for 02-03 ep's
* axle/ball joint grease
* brake fluid
* PB Blaster
* Type S ball joint boots (2)


Tools Needed/Suggested:

Sockets:

14, 17, 22, 1.25 or 32, 36

Tools:

socket extension
Flat head screwdriver
Breaker Bar
Pickle Fork or ball joint puller
Tie Rod Puller
hammer
PB Blaster - your best friend


passenger front side:

1. after removing wheel, remove 2 bolts holding the suspension to the brake.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1793.jpg


2. Loosen brake line bolt - remove brake lines


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1780-1.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1837.jpg


3. 32 mm (1.25) to remove center axle nut, use flathead & hammer to "open" the bind in axle nut.
this will allow you to take the nut off the axle bolt.


http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1756.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1759.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1762.jpg


4. use extension & 10 mm and remove ABS sensor on rear of rotor. (black plastic piece).

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1841.jpg


5. here is where a ball joint puller comes in handy, if you dont have one, use a pickle fork & hammer
LCA to loosen ball joint. use jack to raise brake/rotor assembly & continuous hammer on LCA. once
ball joint lets go, you then remove shock bolts

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1790.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1792.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1802.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1797.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1796.jpg


6. pull off rotor assembly from the car

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1832.jpg


7. remove axle

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1831.jpg


repeat steps for drivers side.


Ball Joint Boots

use hammer & flathead to pop out (ring holder in at base of boot)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1824.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1818.jpg


Installing New Axles


install type s axles - but grease them before installing.

install new ball joint boot & put some ball joint grease in the boot.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1825.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1829.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1830.jpg

install type s rotor onto type s axle

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1833.jpg


install strut bolts

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1835.jpg


Ep ABS sensors can be reused on type s swap but ABS line MUST be taken off clamp for ABS to
allow more slack in the line. clamp should be bent closed and bent back out of the way of the line.
Washers will also be needed to pull it away from the ABS and keep it from being ground down!


reinstall 36mm axle lug with socket - redo the "groove" to lock the nut in place.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1845.jpg



DO NOT PUT ABS LINE INTO CLAMP, SEE INSTRUCTIONS ABOVE.


REAR BRAKES:

Tooles Suggested:

3/4 or 19mm, 12mm, 14 , 10, swivel head socket


after removing rear wheel, remove brake line on rear brake


remove e-brake cable with flathead, to remove retainer clip, tap out E-brake cable.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1879.jpg
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a288/SinisterCivicSi/5%20lug%20swap/IMG_1885.jpg

take off e-brake cable bracket.



SRS sensor - remove - 10mm socket & flathead.




17mm & 14mm - remove strut bolts




grease rear trailing arm bushings


INSTALLING TYPE S BRAKES


install type s rotors on rear & place bolts - tighten

replace ebrake cable back on to type s rotors - 12mm.

reuse retaining bracket of ABS onto type s to reinstall the line.

reinstall brake line - 14mm


Bleed your brake lines thoroughly!!! all 4!!!
make sure your resivoir tank stays within limits also. you will need a friend to pump the brakes
while you are bleeding each line.

once all lines are free of any bubbles, tighten down and level off resivior tank in engine bay.


enjoy your new 5 lug swap!

bchaney
03-28-2010, 01:56 PM
This is great, nice job.

One question about "Parts Needed for this swap: * Type - S 5 lug full swap."

Is this just the rotors and brakes? Tryin to figure out everything I'd need to do this.

ttttrigg3r
03-28-2010, 03:19 PM
Why would you want 5 lug instead of 4 lug? any advantages?

SinisterCivicSi
03-29-2010, 04:52 AM
This is great, nice job.

One question about "Parts Needed for this swap: * Type - S 5 lug full swap."

Is this just the rotors and brakes? Tryin to figure out everything I'd need to do this.

rotors, brakes, calipers, balljoints, bearings, etc is what was involved with my swap. because they were matched in year i didnt have to use the dc5 lca's.



Why would you want 5 lug instead of 4 lug? any advantages?

bigger brakes for better stopping ability

ctr rims (already owned them from our rsx, the ep inherited them when the rsx was sold)

aesthetics - bigger brakes fill the inner rim nicely with larger rims.

oneglory
03-29-2010, 07:17 AM
nice DIY Mary, but you can't enter the Free Batman contest!

situner28
06-05-2010, 02:42 PM
did this same thing 3 wheels ago very please with!!

Anrasmor
08-17-2010, 09:23 AM
I recently read somewhere else that you can use the '04-'05 hubs and press them in. I do have access to a press and I would be much more interested in doing that rather than replacing the entire knuckle. Has anybody seen this or done this?

2k3hatchie
08-17-2010, 10:13 AM
I recently read somewhere else that you can use the '04-'05 hubs and press them in. I do have access to a press and I would be much more interested in doing that rather than replacing the entire knuckle. Has anybody seen this or done this?

That is actually what i planned to do, the knuckles are the same between the 02/03's and 04/05's (correct me if im wrong) so the bearing should press right in.

The only thing i've become worried about is if the larger caliper from the type s will cause the pedal to feel mushy, any insignt on this?

Anrasmor
08-17-2010, 10:35 AM
That is actually what i planned to do, the knuckles are the same between the 02/03's and 04/05's (correct me if im wrong) so the bearing should press right in.

The only thing i've become worried about is if the larger caliper from the type s will cause the pedal to feel mushy, any insignt on this?

I wouldn't think the pedal would feel too much different. Honestly in that situation I'd go ahead and install SS lines as well. If there is any difference in pedal feel the SS lines should more than compensate. And for $100 or so you get a lot better pedal feel and you have to bleed the brakes anyways.

That raises another question of mine. Do the facelift ep3's have the same size rotors as the 4 lugs? Or are they similar in size to the DC5 type S?

2k3hatchie
08-17-2010, 12:51 PM
I wouldn't think the pedal would feel too much different. Honestly in that situation I'd go ahead and install SS lines as well. If there is any difference in pedal feel the SS lines should more than compensate. And for $100 or so you get a lot better pedal feel and you have to bleed the brakes anyways.

That raises another question of mine. Do the facelift ep3's have the same size rotors as the 4 lugs? Or are they similar in size to the DC5 type S?

As far as I knew all EP's and Base DC5's have the same size rotors front and rear, only the DC5-S's have bigger rotors up front.

I wasn't too worried about the spungie brake but hear it from someone else makes me a lot more confident. SS lines are definitely part of the plan when I do my DC5-S swap.

Anrasmor
08-17-2010, 01:29 PM
So from my understanding, all you need to convert an '02 ep3 to 5 lug is the hubs and rotors from the '04 or '05? Can anybody confirm this? I am currently looking at wheels as well so bumping up to 5x114 would be great if I can do it for decently cheap.

2k3hatchie
08-17-2010, 04:17 PM
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=14

Anrasmor
08-17-2010, 07:11 PM
http://www.k-series.com/tech_document.php?id=14

That is perfect. Haha. Thanks 2k3hatchie, that is exactly what I've been looking for.

2k3hatchie
08-18-2010, 06:46 AM
That is perfect. Haha. Thanks 2k3hatchie, that is exactly what I've been looking for.

No problemo. I'm just passing it along, someone sent me that link and I found it extremely helpful.

Anrasmor
08-18-2010, 08:00 AM
Wow. Bearings and hubs run fairly expensive on these Honda's. Even some of the BMW's I've worked on aren't as expensive. For me to do bearings and hubs on all four corners without rotors was almost $600.

2k3hatchie
08-18-2010, 10:01 AM
Wow. Bearings and hubs run fairly expensive on these Honda's. Even some of the BMW's I've worked on aren't as expensive. For me to do bearings and hubs on all four corners without rotors was almost $600.

I noticed that too, its funny because the Type S hubs are actually cheaper, but then you need the axles to go with them which jacks the price back up. I'll probably end up getting type s hub assemblies from an auto recycler and buy new bearings/studs/nuts for them. At least new type s caliper assemblies are relatively cheap (though I'm pretty sure the ones I'm looking at are Re-Mans).

Anrasmor
08-18-2010, 10:21 AM
I noticed that too, its funny because the Type S hubs are actually cheaper, but then you need the axles to go with them which jacks the price back up. I'll probably end up getting type s hub assemblies from an auto recycler and buy new bearings/studs/nuts for them. At least new type s caliper assemblies are relatively cheap (though I'm pretty sure the ones I'm looking at are Re-Mans).

Yeah, I've been looking at reman stuff all morning. Honestly, I think this may be the one car that I keep with the 4x100 pattern. The 5 lug just doesn't seem worth it unless you're putting the type s brakes on. And even then, my ep3 stops almost as well as my S13 with 300zx brakes, 300zx mc, and SS lines. And that bastard stopped on a dime.

ragebomb
10-09-2010, 10:29 PM
I've just started this conversion... I have the Type-S rotor/knuckle assemblies for all 4 corners from an 03 RSX Type-S. I'm going to upgrade to SS brake lines while I'm at it.

Should I buy EP3 or RSX brake lines? Does it matter?

Hmm. I just did some digging and compared part numbers at http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com.

02 EP3 Left Rear brake line "set" is part #: 01468-S5A-J03
03 RSX Type-S Rear brake line "set" is part #: 01468-S6M-000

I wonder if they have different part #'s only b/c the "set" includes slightly different hardware (washers or whatever)? I'll probably buy SS brake lines made for the RSX Type-S.

Update: Thanks to 56chevydan for his insight. He said this:


"As far as stainless steel brake lines go, I'd order for the RSX-s. The RSX-s lines are about an inch longer that the base RSX.
If you think about it, when you get your front brake setup in, and since the RSX has the same floorpan as the EP3, basically your new setup is RSX-s. The rears will be the same whether RSX-s, RSX or EP3. Check on www.CorSportusa.com for the lines. They are a site sponsor and they have free shipping."

ragebomb
10-25-2010, 10:01 PM
So, I'm half way done with my conversion (donor car is RSX-S). I started with the rear on Saturday, and that went great. Then on Sunday, I ran into two problems:

1. I couldn't break free the axle nut.

2. The "EL CHEAPO" ball joint puller I bought was the wrong shape to do the job.

Re: #1, I read this thread:
http://www.honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=2524465
And for me, the key advice was to put the car fully on the ground. I am using a breaker bar, and I found that no amount of force will move that axle nut if the suspension or wheel travel are absorbing the force of the breaker bar. My contribution is post #51 in that thread.

Re: #2, this is the ball joint puller type you SHOULD NOT buy:
http://www.amazon.com/Airhead-Pitman-Arm-Puller-Flexible/dp/B0016ZYILA/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1288068263&sr=1-4
aka the "Pitman Arm Puller". I had seen it mentioned elsewhere, thought it might work, it doesn't. It just can't fit around the LCA properly. So on the advice of 56chevydan, I bought this puller instead:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PN010/ref=oss_product
OTC - BALL JOINT SEPARATOR (6297)
It hasn't arrived yet, but will tell you guys how it fares. The only other option (if you don't want to pound on it like a Gorilla with that fork thing), is to buy the Honda-recommended tool. Which is hecka expensive at over $200:
http://www.clubrsx.com/cr/HON-074MAC-SL00200.html?utm_source=froogle&utm_medium=search&utm_campaign=froogle

A couple tips I can offer so far for people doing this swap:

a. The shop manual says to get a 12mm x 1.25 nut and put it on the ball joint thread so it is flush with the nut's hole. Doing this is supposed to prevent the ball joint's threaded bolt from collapsing during the pulling process. I saw another poster mention that he ruined his ball joint bolts because that bolt is essentially hollow. Just a note, you might not be able to find a 12mm x 1.25 nut at your Home Depot or whatnot. You may have to go to a store with more nut variety. My Home Depot only had 12mm x 1.75 (so the thread was all wrong). Ultimately I bought it online, here:
http://www.scooterwest.com/item_details/Nut-for-Driven-Pulley-Assy--%28M12-X-1-25--H10%29/4826

b. As you are removing bolts/nuts from your EP3 knuckle assembly, place the corresponding bolts/nuts on to the donor knuckle. That will help you remember where they go.

c. If you are using a breaker bar, put the car COMPLETELY on the ground (and chock the wheel) when you are breaking the axle nuts.

d. The shop manual says to replace a bunch of random self-locking nuts, flange bolts, and washers throughout the process. I counted up about 10 random bolts/nuts/washers that I had to replace. Cost about $18 total from http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com, but shipping was another $15 or so.

e. If your donor car is an RSX-S, plan on changing the transmission fluid. Because the RSX-S swap requires replacement of the front axles, removing the axles will drain the transmission fluid. So you'll need to buy more. I bought 2 quarts of Amsoil "MTF-style" fluid directly from Amsoil.
http://www.amsoil.com/catalog.aspx?GroupID=212

f. Here's where I got my front axles:
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Acura/RSX/EMPI/Axle_Assembly/2003/Type-S/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/W0133-1774370.html?loc=Driver+Side&tlc=Brakes%2C+Suspension+%26+Steering
http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Acura/RSX/EMPI/Axle_Assembly/2003/Type-S/4_Cyl_2-dot-0L/W0133-1774371.html?loc=Passenger+Side&tlc=Brakes%2C+Suspension+%26+Steering
Brand is EMPI. They come with new axle nuts and are new (not rebuilt). About $85 each, with free shipping. One word of caution, be very very careful if you buy over the phone (like I did). I gave them part numbers, and it turns out that multiple brands share the same part number. So I ended up with 2 brands, one was EMPI, and the other was FEQ. Ugh, so I had to return and re-buy. I didn't want to risk something stupid happening, like one of them axles having a different number of teeth on the ABS sensor ring (which would make the ABS system think one wheel was out of control).

I had also priced axles from www.raxles.com, but they ended up being $212 EACH, not including shipping. I couldn't bring myself to spend that much, so went with EMPI.

More updates when my tools arrive and I can finish this swap!

Behemoth
01-18-2011, 11:54 PM
I've just started this conversion... I have the Type-S rotor/knuckle assemblies for all 4 corners from an 03 RSX Type-S. I'm going to upgrade to SS brake lines while I'm at it.

Should I buy EP3 or RSX brake lines? Does it matter?

Hmm. I just did some digging and compared part numbers at http://www.hondapartsunlimited.com.

02 EP3 Left Rear brake line "set" is part #: 01468-S5A-J03
03 RSX Type-S Rear brake line "set" is part #: 01468-S6M-000

I wonder if they have different part #'s only b/c the "set" includes slightly different hardware (washers or whatever)? I'll probably buy SS brake lines made for the RSX Type-S.

Update: Thanks to 56chevydan for his insight. He said this:


"As far as stainless steel brake lines go, I'd order for the RSX-s. The RSX-s lines are about an inch longer that the base RSX.
If you think about it, when you get your front brake setup in, and since the RSX has the same floorpan as the EP3, basically your new setup is RSX-s. The rears will be the same whether RSX-s, RSX or EP3. Check on www.CorSportusa.com for the lines. They are a site sponsor and they have free shipping."

Keep us updated. I'd like to hear more

DA9_GSR
01-19-2011, 09:25 AM
I'm curious as to why people are so adament about doing a Type S five bolt conversion? Is there an advantage over the RSX base five lug conversion?

ragebomb
01-19-2011, 10:13 AM
Keep us updated. I'd like to hear more

Thanks Behomoth. I ended up buying the SS brake lines that are made for a RSX Type-S. I ordered a set made by Techna-Fit from Corsport. They took about 3-4 weeks to arrive, apparently they are made to order. Anyway they arrived so late that I had already completed my conversion and brake bleeding, so I didn't end up installing them yet. I'll install them some time this coming summer. Meanwhile, the 5-lug conversion is complete and everything is good!

Here are a couple pics I took the night I finished. 2002 EP3 with 5-lug conversion from a 2003 RSX Type-S:

http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/th_DSC000663.jpg (http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/?action=view&current=DSC000663.jpg)http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/th_DSC00198-2.jpg (http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/?action=view&current=DSC00198-2.jpg)


I'm curious as to why people are so adament about doing a Type S five bolt conversion? Is there an advantage over the RSX base five lug conversion?

It's a trade off...

PROS:
> bigger front rotors/calipers for more stopping power

CONS:
> need to replace front axles
> b/c of axle swap, need to replace transmission fluid
> if you have a 15" spare tire, you will need to find the LARGER 16" 5-bolt spare (you need to get a 5-bolt spare anyway, just be sure to get the 16" one)

Here's a picture of my RSX Type-S front rotor next to the EP3 front rotor. The base RSX rotor would be the same size as the EP3 rotor. The Type-S rotors are much bigger in diameter.

That said, I personally wasn't adamant about choosing Type-S over the base. Had I been able to get the base version for the same price, I might have gone that direction. Swapping axles took some extra time and cost an extra $180 or so after parts, MTF transmission fluid, drain bolt/washers, etc.

http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/th_IMG_1209.jpg (http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/?action=view&current=IMG_1209.jpg)http://i551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/th_IMG_1208.jpg (http://s551.photobucket.com/albums/ii455/ragebomb99/ep3/?action=view&current=IMG_1208.jpg)

CastorTroy2
01-19-2011, 09:07 PM
thanks for the info!

Because I will be doing my swap within the next months. Had a couple questions for you if you maybe know...

I got the 02-04 RSX Type-s swap, i DONT need the dc5 lca's right? I can use my stock ep3 lca's? Also can i use the ep3 axles or do i have to buy the 02-04 type s axles?

ragebomb
01-19-2011, 09:16 PM
thanks for the info!

Because I will be doing my swap within the next months. Had a couple questions for you if you maybe know...

I got the 02-04 RSX Type-s swap, i DONT need the dc5 lca's right? I can use my stock ep3 lca's? Also can i use the ep3 axles or do i have to buy the 02-04 type s axles?

LCAs. Yes with the 02-04 model, you can re-use your EP3 LCAs. This may not be true with other years (05-06).

Axles. No you cannot re-use your EP3 axles. You must buy axles that fit the RSX Type-S. The spindle is much larger on the Type-S. If you tried to used the EP3 axle, it would not mate to the hub/rotor assembly correctly and would probably spin freely.

CastorTroy2
01-19-2011, 09:22 PM
LCAs. Yes with the 02-04 model, you can re-use your EP3 LCAs. This may not be true with other years (05-06).

Axles. No you cannot re-use your EP3 axles. You must buy axles that fit the RSX Type-S. The spindle is much larger on the Type-S. If you tried to used the EP3 axle, it would not mate to the hub/rotor assembly correctly and would probably spin freely.

Awesome man. Thanks a lot. Seems pretty simple to install., just need to get all the right tools before i start

lordofthesiths
02-04-2011, 12:48 PM
anyone know where to get the ball joints?
I've checked BKhondaparts.com and hondapartsunlimited.com and the both show the ball joint as part of the knuckle.
i've seen aftermarket ones for lowered cars but mines not lowered.

Behemoth
02-22-2011, 05:48 PM
I didn't see this covered, or I might have missed it, but the 05 dc5 type s should fit the ep3 correct? Brakes, rotors, calibers, axels?

BLACK_EP_HATCH
03-09-2011, 06:38 PM
did this type s swap like a month ago. worked out great.... got the 5lug,wheels,and suspension for dirt cheap. and you really feel the difference in stopping power.

15000rpms
03-29-2011, 05:56 PM
Mary, I don't get the abs sensor part? So far I only understand, "don't bolt the sensor back on; leave it hanging."

And I don't remember reading anything about the tie rod puller. Is that tool necessary?

ragebomb
03-30-2011, 11:11 AM
I didn't see this covered, or I might have missed it, but the 05 dc5 type s should fit the ep3 correct? Brakes, rotors, calibers, axels?

Yes, those parts will bolt on so long as the donor Type-S is model year 02, 03 or 04. See previous posts above for more info.


Mary, I don't get the abs sensor part? So far I only understand, "don't bolt the sensor back on; leave it hanging."

And I don't remember reading anything about the tie rod puller. Is that tool necessary?

Sensor: I would not leave it hanging. You can re-use the sensor and it bolts back up. The only modification that is required is to add a couple of thin washers to the bolt so that the sensor sits a bit higher. Doing this will prevent the sensor tip from being ground down by the axle's ABS teeth. Once you start the conversion and look at these parts you'll see what I mean.

Puller: You don't need a tie-rod puller, but you will need a ball joint puller. Other people have done without a puller (using other tools or generic fork-style pullers), but in most cases they damage the ball joints. I recommend you Google for how others have done it. The cost of a cheap ball joint puller is less than half the price of the OEM Honda puller so it was worth it to me. Alternatively find a buddy who has one and borrow it from him. This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PN010/ref=oss_product

15000rpms
03-30-2011, 01:13 PM
Yes, those parts will bolt on so long as the donor Type-S is model year 02, 03 or 04. See previous posts above for more info.

You need the 05 control arm as well right?


Sensor: I would not leave it hanging. You can re-use the sensor and it bolts back up. The only modification that is required is to add a couple of thin washers to the bolt so that the sensor sits a bit higher. Doing this will prevent the sensor tip from being ground down by the axle's ABS teeth. Once you start the conversion and look at these parts you'll see what I mean.

Puller: You don't need a tie-rod puller, but you will need a ball joint puller. Other people have done without a puller (using other tools or generic fork-style pullers), but in most cases they damage the ball joints. I recommend you Google for how others have done it. The cost of a cheap ball joint puller is less than half the price of the OEM Honda puller so it was worth it to me. Alternatively find a buddy who has one and borrow it from him. This is the one I bought: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0015PN010/ref=oss_product

I always use the fork thing. It's a shame I just replaced one of my ball joints. Might wait till I get powdercoated first.
I thought ground down meant something to do with electric stuff. I think a better word for my understanding should be "grind". I get it now. Add the washers so that the sensor is further away from the suspension components. Thanks:)

ragebomb
03-30-2011, 10:51 PM
I always use the fork thing. It's a shame I just replaced one of my ball joints. Might wait till I get powdercoated first.
I thought ground down meant something to do with electric stuff. I think a better word for my understanding should be "grind". I get it now. Add the washers so that the sensor is further away from the suspension components. Thanks:)

Cool man glad I could help. Yep, "grinding down" is a better description! You're exactly right: add washers so the sensor sits further from suspension component and the spinning axle "ABS teeth".

Good luck with the conversion, let us know how it goes. There are a lot of smart dudes in this forum. Remember that the most complicated thing I ever did prior this 5-lug swap was to install an air intake. So if I can do it, YOU CAN DO IT. LOL.

ragebomb
03-30-2011, 10:57 PM
anyone know where to get the ball joints?
I've checked BKhondaparts.com and hondapartsunlimited.com and the both show the ball joint as part of the knuckle.
i've seen aftermarket ones for lowered cars but mines not lowered.

I didn't search super hard for them, but I remember I came across aftermarket ones made by Buddy Club:
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=1_17&products_id=6016

Those might be the ones you were talking about.

15000rpms
05-18-2011, 12:51 PM
I need help on this. Can't take out the rear pieces. The 14mm and 15/16 bolts just keep spinning. Even with an air gun nothing is coming off.

Thanks in advance.

15000rpms
05-18-2011, 03:53 PM
Huge and big thanks to ragebomb. The break bar worked. "power tool" "cannot" be used on the rear strut bolt. It'll just keep spinning. After hours of using power tools, nothing but stripping occured. With the breaker bar, not even one minute and the shit came off.

ragebomb
05-18-2011, 04:49 PM
Huge and big thanks to ragebomb. The break bar worked. "power tool" "cannot" be used on the rear strut bolt. It'll just keep spinning. After hours of using power tools, nothing but stripping occured. With the breaker bar, not even one minute and the shit came off.

Cool man, I'm glad that worked out. Good luck with the swap!

15000rpms
05-19-2011, 06:22 PM
The secret to taking out the rear strut bolts is that after you've taken out the 17mm nut, then you get the next nut to loosen. After that, you just pound in the screw and it'll come out.

15000rpms
05-20-2011, 03:28 PM
Just finished the swap. Took me 3 tries before the brakes were firm.(supposebly) As for the type s brake line question? It's a little too long in the front. I would "suggest" buying ss brake lines for the ep3 instead.

EP3CHRiS
08-24-2011, 04:11 PM
just way out of topic, but curious about the 4 bolt EP3 hub conversion to the 5 bolt EP3 hub conversion.....I know some people do this instead of the rsx swap, but don't you just need new hubs???

SkareKrow
01-22-2012, 11:51 AM
I have a question for anyone because the fact that I just did my entire conversion on my 02 ep3 and donating cars where. 02 DC5-S Hubs/Knuckles/Calipers and an 02 OEM DC5-S Axle. Except the problems that I am having are the alignment as well as the bleeding isn't working right... I am wondering if I am doing something wrong.

Well I installed it all including some SS Brake Lines.mmand then bled it by pumping 3-4 times and holding on the 4th one and my Pops would be out there and just loosen the bleeder and it would spit out the brake fliud which means air was in the line I started on the rear passenger then went to the driver rear then passenger front and the last one to bleed was the driver front. Then when I drove it the next morning when I braked it would go all the way down to the bottom. Then I took it to get aligned at a Firestone and paid for the lifetime alignment. They told me that well for the brakes the front ones where backwards. He told me to swap out the driver side to the passenger side and Vice-Versa... Then he told me that the front Wont be able to get aligned correctly because I need different tie rods they are fully adjusted and the toe is too in like this towards the front.... // F \\ and I explained that It was type s brakes etc... He told me your tie rods are maxed out... So this is where I am stuck... What do I need to do... Type S Tie Rods.. Ep3 Inverted Tie Rods. If so what kind would be great I need to get my car back up and running.
Thanks if you do know.

whatsvtec
01-22-2012, 12:30 PM
I have a question for anyone because the fact that I just did my entire conversion on my 02 ep3 and donating cars where. 02 DC5-S Hubs/Knuckles/Calipers and an 02 OEM DC5-S Axle. Except the problems that I am having are the alignment as well as the bleeding isn't working right... I am wondering if I am doing something wrong.

Well I installed it all including some SS Brake Lines.mmand then bled it by pumping 3-4 times and holding on the 4th one and my Pops would be out there and just loosen the bleeder and it would spit out the brake fliud which means air was in the line I started on the rear passenger then went to the driver rear then passenger front and the last one to bleed was the driver front. Then when I drove it the next morning when I braked it would go all the way down to the bottom. Then I took it to get aligned at a Firestone and paid for the lifetime alignment. They told me that well for the brakes the front ones where backwards. He told me to swap out the driver side to the passenger side and Vice-Versa... Then he told me that the front Wont be able to get aligned correctly because I need different tie rods they are fully adjusted and the toe is too in like this towards the front.... // F \\ and I explained that It was type s brakes etc... He told me your tie rods are maxed out... So this is where I am stuck... What do I need to do... Type S Tie Rods.. Ep3 Inverted Tie Rods. If so what kind would be great I need to get my car back up and running.
Thanks if you do know.


To answer your question about tie rods, what struts are you running on? If they're EP spec struts and you're still maxed, you'll most likely need inverted tie rods ends, or Todd's Modified tie rods w/modified oem ends.

Also, after reading through the thread above I noticed a bunch of people bleeding brakes 3 times or more before the pedal became stiff and normal again.

SkareKrow
01-22-2012, 12:59 PM
To answer your question about tie rods, what struts are you running on? If they're EP spec struts and you're still maxed, you'll most likely need inverted tie rods ends, or Todd's Modified tie rods w/modified oem ends.

Also, after reading through the thread above I noticed a bunch of people bleeding brakes 3 times or more before the pedal became stiff and normal again.

Im on stock struts with h&r springs and in Mid Feb Early March dropping in BC Coilovers N+.
Where can I get those inverted tie rods and they have to be ep3 specific.

whatsvtec
01-22-2012, 04:29 PM
Im on stock struts with h&r springs and in Mid Feb Early March dropping in BC Coilovers N+.
Where can I get those inverted tie rods and they have to be ep3 specific.

You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.

SkareKrow
01-22-2012, 04:48 PM
You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.

For sure. Thanks. I know that t1r had some. But.I don't know if they are discontinued...

SkareKrow
02-19-2012, 12:40 PM
You can have someone machine your struts so that you can install the OEM tie-rods inverted. IDK where to buy some pre-made inverted though, I'll do a quick search.

I ended up buying the DV Race Tie Rods (Todds Tie Rods) Pretty expensive. Got them installed and I am finally good to go for now. Thank God, Just waiting on the Type S Brake Booster as well as the Brake Cylinder and I am thinking of picking up some inverted after market tie rod ends. I was looking at the new ones that Wayne has v2.0 but honestly Too Expensive lol. Ill keep searching. Thanks again for as much as I could possible get. :smile:

Boostedtaco
04-24-2012, 12:15 PM
Question about Type-S axles. Will the ep3 intermediate shaft work with Type-S axles (02-04)? or do i need a type-s intermediate shaft?

ragebomb
04-24-2012, 12:47 PM
Question about Type-S axles. Will the ep3 intermediate shaft work with Type-S axles (02-04)? or do i need a type-s intermediate shaft?

It will work. I did not have to swap that shaft for my conversion.

Boostedtaco
04-24-2012, 02:20 PM
cooool. thanks!

ragebomb
04-24-2012, 02:36 PM
cooool. thanks!

No problem. Separating the intermediate shaft from the stock axle was really difficult for me though. Make sure the car is high enough off the ground that you can get a chisel or something in there to whack it apart.

dreman
03-24-2013, 08:19 PM
I know title says 02/03 ep with 02/03 DC5 Type S Parts

But to confirm you can also use a swap from a 04 model right 02/04 RSX-S?

Also I found a RSX-S 5lug setup with out calipers can I reuse the EP3 calipers with the 5lug conversion or will I need the RSX calipers?

poeticfinesse21
03-24-2013, 09:41 PM
All 02-04 RSX-S are the same and yes you will need the RSX-S calipers. The rotors are bigger so the EP3 calipers will not fit plus reusing your EP3 calipers kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing the conversion.

SkareKrow
03-24-2013, 10:45 PM
All 02-04 RSX-S are the same and yes you will need the RSX-S calipers. The rotors are bigger so the EP3 calipers will not fit plus reusing your EP3 calipers kind of defeats the whole purpose of doing the conversion.

Yes and No!


You can use the ep3 calipers in the rear! The front you need the Type S Calipers! And axles as well from a type S!

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dreman
03-24-2013, 11:01 PM
Thanks guys.

SkareKrow
03-24-2013, 11:36 PM
Thanks guys.

Yup anytime, Let us know if you need any help at all. You can pm me or email,
SkareKrowZ@gmail.com

:mwink:

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poeticfinesse21
03-25-2013, 05:34 AM
Yes and No!


You can use the ep3 calipers in the rear! The front you need the Type S Calipers! And axles as well from a type S!

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Yea you're right Jaime. I just assumed that he was talking about the front. All 02-05 EP3's and 02-06 RSX have the same rear calipers.

dreman
03-25-2013, 04:29 PM
Very help guys and thanks.

SkareKrow good looking out I just pulled a full setup off a 04 TYPE-S just now boy I'm tired and hurting. I'll do the swap in a few weeks I'm impressed with this site you've all been so helpful.

SkareKrow
03-25-2013, 04:51 PM
Very help guys and thanks.

SkareKrow good looking out I just pulled a full setup off a 04 TYPE-S just know boy I'm tired and hurting. I'll do the swap in a few weeks I'm impressed with this site you've all been so helpful.

let me know if you need anymore help. if you were local we could do your conversion asap!=)

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dreman
03-26-2013, 08:27 AM
I have 1 more question I noticed the rear ABS senors are no good so I need to get these asap.

After looking at honda/acura part numbers it looks like the 02-03 EP3 shares the same rear ABS sensors as 02-04 RSX Type-S

So just to confirm I can reuse the EP3 rear sensors on the RSX knuckles which will avoid lights on the dash for abs and work out?

Thanks in advance.

poeticfinesse21
03-26-2013, 12:23 PM
I don't see why not. The rears are identical aside from the extra lug

SkareKrow
03-26-2013, 03:00 PM
I have 1 more question I noticed the rear ABS senors are no good so I need to get these asap.

After looking at honda/acura part numbers it looks like the 02-03 EP3 shares the same rear ABS sensors as 02-04 RSX Type-S

So just to confirm I can reuse the EP3 rear sensors on the RSX knuckles which will avoid lights on the dash for abs and work out?

Thanks in advance.

you can reuse the ep3 ones just fine!

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dreman
04-23-2013, 04:54 PM
Are new Type S ball joints needed for this swap or can I reuse the ones since they look fine?

SkareKrow
04-23-2013, 05:07 PM
Are new Type S ball joints needed for this swap or can I reuse the ones since they look fine?

I would Just reuse... If they are fine..

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obsoletearturo
06-24-2013, 04:37 PM
So i can buy this http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=140999520350 and im set on doing my 5 lug conversion?

SkareKrow
06-24-2013, 05:02 PM
So i can buy this http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=140999520350 and im set on doing my 5 lug conversion?

Yeah those look like they will work as long as you have the rest of the stuff as well. I've never seen that brand.

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obsoletearturo
06-25-2013, 03:08 PM
okay so i know someone selling their type s 5 lug conversion with everything (about 54k on it)for about $450 with sensor and brake line, i was gonna just pick up a stainless steel brake line separate or should i just go with the type s brake line? Or should i buy the conversion off somewhere else? i need your opinion.

SkareKrow
06-25-2013, 03:43 PM
okay so i know someone selling their type s 5 lug conversion with everything (about 54k on it)for about $450 with sensor and brake line, i was gonna just pick up a stainless steel brake line separate or should i just go with the type s brake line? Or should i buy the conversion off somewhere else? i need your opinion.

Wherever you would like to pick it up its pretty much where you can find a good price and thats in good condition.

For brake lines its up to you what you want to use.


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Ubeyo
11-19-2013, 06:04 AM
how much do these full 5 lug set up swaps usually cost? ive been offering alot of people parting there rsx's out so id like to have a good price to fight for or go under ;D

SkareKrow
11-19-2013, 07:49 AM
how much do these full 5 lug set up swaps usually cost? ive been offering alot of people parting there rsx's out so id like to have a good price to fight for or go under ;D

ive seen them go from 200$-1,100$

My first swap was all damaged(02 RSX-S) so I ended buying 2 of them which came out to 1200$.(2nd was from an 06 RSX-S)

My wifes ep3 swap which I am going to be doing soon. That one cost me about 160$ total from an 03 RSX-S.


Good luck. My best bet is whoever is parting out... Make sure you dismantle it yourself...

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Ubeyo
12-15-2013, 01:06 PM
so i bought an 04 type S 5 lug set up. do i need to buy rsx-S rlca's or can i still get ep3 rlca's?

SkareKrow
12-15-2013, 05:03 PM
so i bought an 04 type S 5 lug set up. do i need to buy rsx-S rlca's or can i still get ep3 rlca's?

Are you replacing the rear trailing arms? and by r you mean rear correct. dont bother Replacing the rear trailing arms. but If You Do... You will have to buy dc5 rear lower control arms. Because the DC5 RLCA has a completely different Bolt pattern... I still havent done Wifeys 5 lug conversion Been extremely busy with the holidays and I want to upgrade her brake lines to Stainless Steel Braided Brake Lines.

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Ubeyo
12-15-2013, 09:43 PM
alright. so if i plan on buying function7 rear lower control arms i have to buy 04 rsx ones? or is that only if i swap the rear trailing arms?

SkareKrow
12-15-2013, 10:38 PM
alright. so if i plan on buying function7 rear lower control arms i have to buy 04 rsx ones? or is that only if i swap the rear trailing arms?

Only if you swap the rear trailing arms you will have to get dc5 lower control arms.


Look at the dc5 bolt pattern
http://www.velocityshop.com/images/products/1259833707-hr-lca-dc5.jpg

and this is the ep3 bolt pattern.
http://www.corsportusa.com/store/catalog/images/F7EPLCA.jpg

just the bolt pattern and by that you would have to replace the entire rear trailing arm. Also you need to buy a 10point socket:
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41a38LfEZ4L._SY300_.jpg

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Ubeyo
03-12-2014, 08:54 PM
so i have just attempted to do my 5 lug swap and unfortunately i had to learn the hard way and FAIL.
It all began with the ball joint being a ho and not freeing from the lca with a pickle fork no matter how many times i hit that hammer :/
resorted to the air hammer (DONT EVER DO THIS) and warped the bolt so i had to file it down :/ then i tried to put the castle nut on and it striped! -.- luckily had another one and had to re die the ball joint :/ luckily it finally thread correctly and i was able to get my jacked up castle nut in and lock it in place! FRONTS COMPLETE!

next was the rear. The set i bought used came with the rear arm still attached to it. I looked at it and it looked really similar so i said ehff it pop the ep3 one off and just throw the rsx one on. misread the DIY and Turns out the rsx was completely different -.- and is had like a -5 degree caster and looked stupid af! so i took me about 2 hours to realize that its not the bolt in incorrectly but it was the arm and i just had to use the rsx rotor and brake and run the ep3 arms.

THEN! the shop called clean up so i rushed and said ehff it i gotta go home still! and threw the ep3 rear brake assembly back on really quick, got some help bleeding my brake (WHICH WAS FAIL BTW *ill talk about this soon) threw my low offset xxr's on the rear and called it good! cleaned up and headed home!
5 LUG in da FRONT, 4 LUG in da REAR KREW!:tehehyper:
FML

ON THE DRIVE HOME! i hear this rubbing noise and look back like it was just something rubbing the plastics in the back so i keep going. i fill up my tires with some air and the head back to the street as i hear this noise again. i pull to the side and look at the clearence on my wheels to fenders in the rear... THERES NO CAMBER THERE!?!?!!! WTF so now my shop was closed and i had to drive 12 miles home dying on the inside because my baby was rubbing all that 12 miles :/ NOT TO MENTION MY DAM BREAKS WERE SOFT AF!!! i thought i was gonna die, i had to pump the breaks to get any response to slow down :/

ANYWAYS! ill just continue the swap asap but first i need to re bleed the brakes. Dont let this step be skipped or not taken seriously! i was in a rush and had to get home... anyways FML and i hope everything goes smoothly when i start back up on the rear in the next few days...

SkareKrow
03-12-2014, 09:31 PM
so i have just attempted to do my 5 lug swap and unfortunately i had to learn the hard way and FAIL.
It all began with the ball joint being a ho and not freeing from the lca with a pickle fork no matter how many times i hit that hammer :/
resorted to the air hammer (DONT EVER DO THIS) and warped the bolt so i had to file it down :/ then i tried to put the castle nut on and it striped! -.- luckily had another one and had to re die the ball joint :/ luckily it finally thread correctly and i was able to get my jacked up castle nut in and lock it in place! FRONTS COMPLETE!

next was the rear. The set i bought used came with the rear arm still attached to it. I looked at it and it looked really similar so i said ehff it pop the ep3 one off and just throw the rsx one on. misread the DIY and Turns out the rsx was completely different -.- and is had like a -5 degree caster and looked stupid af! so i took me about 2 hours to realize that its not the bolt in incorrectly but it was the arm and i just had to use the rsx rotor and brake and run the ep3 arms.

THEN! the shop called clean up so i rushed and said ehff it i gotta go home still! and threw the ep3 rear brake assembly back on really quick, got some help bleeding my brake (WHICH WAS FAIL BTW *ill talk about this soon) threw my low offset xxr's on the rear and called it good! cleaned up and headed home!
5 LUG in da FRONT, 4 LUG in da REAR KREW!:tehehyper:
FML

ON THE DRIVE HOME! i hear this rubbing noise and look back like it was just something rubbing the plastics in the back so i keep going. i fill up my tires with some air and the head back to the street as i hear this noise again. i pull to the side and look at the clearence on my wheels to fenders in the rear... THERES NO CAMBER THERE!?!?!!! WTF so now my shop was closed and i had to drive 12 miles home dying on the inside because my baby was rubbing all that 12 miles :/ NOT TO MENTION MY DAM BREAKS WERE SOFT AF!!! i thought i was gonna die, i had to pump the breaks to get any response to slow down :/

ANYWAYS! ill just continue the swap asap but first i need to re bleed the brakes. Dont let this step be skipped or not taken seriously! i was in a rush and had to get home... anyways FML and i hope everything goes smoothly when i start back up on the rear in the next few days...

Wow. Sorry to read this.
Well the caster isn't the problem. It seems the RSX rear something is bent. Rsx/rsx-s/ep3 = same in the rear.

If you need any help you can text me ill reply as as possible.
951-858-0817

-J

P. S. Keep updating.

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Hasbro
03-13-2014, 08:12 AM
:mcry:

Ubeyo
03-13-2014, 08:12 AM
Yesterday was a very sad day :(

Ubeyo
03-13-2014, 12:18 PM
So i looked at my rsx rear driver side arm and it turns out that it is bent. So i guess im going to have to take the hub and rotor off and use the ep3's arm... On the pluss side the passenger side is straight and will be a plug and play kinda deal... Re bled my brakes ab hour ago! Car is drivable again! :D

SkareKrow
03-15-2014, 10:16 AM
So i looked at my rsx rear driver side arm and it turns out that it is bent. So i guess im going to have to take the hub and rotor off and use the ep3's arm... On the pluss side the passenger side is straight and will be a plug and play kinda deal... Re bled my brakes ab hour ago! Car is drivable again! :D

yeah freaking slight bs bent knuckles. glad you fixed it. d;-)

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Ubeyo
04-07-2014, 09:46 PM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/08/u5usyse3.jpg
I did what i said i was gonna do and it all went great! But! another thing i noticed is i hear a very slight rumbling noise when i drive... It dosnt seem too major. You think the bearings just need a greasing? And if so how do i do that? Lmfao

Ep3-PR
05-29-2014, 10:13 PM
Im planing to do a 5 lug dc5 05 swap for my 02 i got buddyclub ball joints 05 control arms 05 axles disc caliper and knuckle 05 wich strut bolt i need and my oem 02 ep3 brake lines are compatible?

ragebomb
06-22-2014, 07:09 AM
Im planing to do a 5 lug dc5 05 swap for my 02 i got buddyclub ball joints 05 control arms 05 axles disc caliper and knuckle 05 wich strut bolt i need and my oem 02 ep3 brake lines are compatible?

Yes they should be compatible but you may want to spend $100 and upgrade to stainless steel. When I did I ordered the RSX-S version but to be honest they may be identical.

SkareKrow
07-27-2014, 12:20 AM
rsx type s brake lines are a tad bit longer but it works ep or rsx. i went with the type s length

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petegriffen
10-02-2014, 07:11 AM
It has been covered somewhere but I can't seem to find it. I need to know what else do I need to do the type s 5 lug swap. I have 2004 rsx types rotors, brakes, calipers, balljoints, bearings, axles, front Lca, rear dust caps. I read the brake lines on dc5s are longer than ep3. Is this a fact? What else shall I pick up to complete everything that is needed.

SkareKrow
10-02-2014, 01:06 PM
It has been covered somewhere but I can't seem to find it. I need to know what else do I need to do the type s 5 lug swap. I have 2004 rsx types rotors, brakes, calipers, balljoints, bearings, axles, front Lca, rear dust caps. I read the brake lines on dc5s are longer than ep3. Is this a fact? What else shall I pick up to complete everything that is needed.

yes they are longer the brake lines. The ABS sensors or just space the ep3 ones.

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Eddie Murphy
10-10-2014, 09:50 AM
Yes yes...don't forget to get the ABS sensors from the 5 lug swap parts.

Eddie Murphy
10-10-2014, 09:52 AM
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/08/u5usyse3.jpg
I did what i said i was gonna do and it all went great! But! another thing i noticed is i hear a very slight rumbling noise when i drive... It dosnt seem too major. You think the bearings just need a greasing? And if so how do i do that? Lmfao

Did you ever find the source of the rumbling noise. Maybe the shields behind the front brakes.

Eddie Murphy
10-12-2014, 11:54 AM
I'm very happy with the 5 lug swap. And the larger 36mm 02-04 RSX-S axles add a bit more durability as well. And the lager front brakes add stopping ability.
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/10298814_10202678793223996_7456374280182487344_n.j pg?oh=4701429cab68a43b4c3f82a4296eb754&oe=54BFF8E1
https://fbcdn-sphotos-g-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/1509868_10202678794304023_4578333078562000831_n.jp g?oh=849600d8fbe1c3d6f210f67c77726aa4&oe=54B6F1B6&__gda__=1425268105_a18de0a59547786b93b1f467e69c8b1 9
https://scontent-b-lga.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/10290008_10203769359447470_6188928922385355840_n.j pg?oh=754f0e94d3f86830d4c82b68650ad066&oe=54F2BD95

ChampionshipW
04-04-2016, 10:34 AM
Reviving an old thread here, did anyone notice the 02/04 RSX-s axles are shorter than the ep3? Did this cause any problems on lowered suspension? I went to buy and found they are 28 spline and short ~ 2".

SkareKrow
04-05-2016, 08:53 AM
Reviving an old thread here, did anyone notice the 02/04 RSX-s axles are shorter than the ep3? Did this cause any problems on lowered suspension? I went to buy and found they are 28 spline and short ~ 2".
Ummmm OEM or aftermarket?
I have personally done this swap a handful of times and well. I have done both the 02-04 RSX type s and the 05-06. The axles are all exaclty the same size. Even the ep3 ones. I ran into this shorter issue when I got some from AutoZone but then i got some from OReilly and exact fitment issues. But I don't know. Always nice to learn something new.

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ChampionshipW
04-06-2016, 04:05 AM
Yeah, I checked the specs from autozone's website. They all have different lengths. I checked 03 - 03 and the type s were longer actually.
Anyhow, what size washers do I use for the abs sensor? How many? Do I have to drain the transmission? The manual didn't mention that. I may just swap out the axles to type -s because I've been eyeballing that new type r motor 306hp turbo stock!!!

SkareKrow
04-06-2016, 04:32 PM
Yeah, I checked the specs from autozone's website. They all have different lengths. I checked 03 - 03 and the type s were longer actually.
Anyhow, what size washers do I use for the abs sensor? How many? Do I have to drain the transmission? The manual didn't mention that. I may just swap out the axles to type -s because I've been eyeballing that new type r motor 306hp turbo stock!!!
Well if your doing a 5 lug from an rsx type s you need the type s axles if your using the 5 lug from a base model or ep3 then you can't use the type s. It's always good to flush the transmission. For washers just use it enough to space it if your using your s axles and knuckles...

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ChampionshipW
04-07-2016, 06:27 PM
So I swapped outbreak rear, hammered that out like a pro. Then I went to switch the front, it was a nightmare! I used a 10' cheater bar from a fence to break the 32mm loose because I was afraid of something snapping. Then I went to pull out the axles, no problem. BUT... When I tried to put them back in it took forever!!! I tried to line the splines up, because they have gap on the onboard, nothing. Finally, I pulled back and smashed it in with a pop! Then, my underbrace was preventing me from pulling out the lca's. Dremeled it. Finally swapped out the brakes and pedal dropped to the floor! I'm working on bleeding them, but DO I NEED THE MC AND BB FOR THE RSX-S CALIPERS? So far, nowhere have I read that they were needed. ( the dc5-S piston is ~2" like the ep3) Also, Why are people bleading RR,Rl,Fl,FR when the manual states Fl,FR,Rl,RR?