Broke a wheel stud

[nikkotyper]

I was trying to torque up my front right wheel nuts and accidently overtorqued one of them. Well, it broke. I went to the dealer and bought another wheel stud thinking I will just replace it. However, it seems much more complicated than what I have experienced in the past on other cars.
Does anybody have a HELM manual? If so, can you tell me what is the easiest way to do it...
I took off the tire, brake calipers and the disc brake. That gave me access to the spinddle assembly (steering knuckle.) But, it seems that I have to take the hub nut off... WHAT DO I HAVE TO TORQUE IT AT LATER?
Any other inputs?!?

Thanks.
-- Nick

[goy091]

ouch dude. hmm well if you took all the crap off and dont know wut to do, MIGHT have to take it to the shop =/. im sorry i cant be more helpful, mebe il pick up a Helms for my EP, the one for my GSR cost like $70!?!? but its a big book so might be worth it.

[chunky]

can you access the back of the stud?

on most hondas, you hammer out the old stud, then put the new stud in. Then stack a few (like 5-10 depending on thickness) washers onto the stud, and tighten down the lug nut to pull the stud into place. Then you put the wheel on and torque the lugs down. I like to torque them to 100ft-lb, honda says 90ft-lb on most of their cars, but I like to keep things snug up there.

be sure to re-torque the nut after a few days of driving. the heating/cooling cycles will probably create some play in the stud after awhile.

[nikkotyper]

Chunky, thanks.
However, I have broken wheel studs before and that's how I used to do it (broke several on the Z.)
Pound it out from the back and put the new one in.
But, on the SI I could not get enought space in the back (even after removing the brake dust shield) to have any sort of a stroke to punch the broken stud out. So, I thought I might have to remove the spinddle assembly and the hub nut which is a big pain since they have to be retorqued tightly (something that would require more than a 150ft-lb torque wrench I have.)
I will have to deal with it during the weekend.

[B18CXr]

you will need to remove the hub and have a press handy....... sorry.

[chunky]

Originally posted by nikkotyper
Chunky, thanks.
However, I have broken wheel studs before and that's how I used to do it (broke several on the Z.)
Pound it out from the back and put the new one in.
But, on the SI I could not get enought space in the back (even after removing the brake dust shield) to have any sort of a stroke to punch the broken stud out. So, I thought I might have to remove the spinddle assembly and the hub nut which is a big pain since they have to be retorqued tightly (something that would require more than a 150ft-lb torque wrench I have.)
I will have to deal with it during the weekend.

you could always drill it out, but then there's the issue of getting the new stud in.

that's crappy that they don't have enough clearance in the back to punch out broken studs. . . .

[nikkotyper]

According to my local dealer the lug nuts should be torqued at 85 lb-ft. I broke my wheel stud torquing the nut at 90 lb-ft !?!
5 lb-ft did it?!? That's hard to believe...

[chunky]

Originally posted by nikkotyper
According to my local dealer the lug nuts should be torqued at 85 lb-ft. I broke my wheel stud torquing the nut at 90 lb-ft !?!
5 lb-ft did it?!? That's hard to believe...

they say a t-bar is the best way to tighten-remove lug nuts almost impossible to break lug nuts short of cross threading and just being a dumbass. too bad they don't make a torque wrench that's a t-bar- i'd buy one.

[raiyo]

grrr.... i'm joining the cool crowd. uh huh, whatever.

I broke my wheel stud today, sad. Was rotating the tires and when I tighten the sucker, it just popped. Scared the shit out of myself thinking it'll be an expensive fix. All three went on good. It tigthen, so I give it alittle more push. As for the bad one, it just keep spinning and I was like, wtf, what happen. I was "thinking" the darn thing would snap if I keep going, then it happened. Weirdest thing is that the bolt kept spinning and never went to the tighten point. My friend told me that the stud might have been damaged before tighten. I was using a T-bar btw.

Lesson learned: Never use a $%$@ T-bar to do all the work, using the stock wrench to tighten then drop the car, then use a t-bar tigten alittle more, or.... a torque wrench.

Gonna get the stud replaced tomorrow at a local shop. My friend did business with them before and he said around 20-30 bucks per stud.

Enjoy my failure below, but don't do what I did.

http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid81/p5013f75fb701f3fef114acf8d1b56a45/fafecee2.jpghttp://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid81/pa3a41f9baa18eddd7bae7efc56051e0e/fafecee9.jpg http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid81/p16d1fbf9188265541306dd2096641f59/fafeced9.jpg

[dchu]

On older civics you had to grind a notch on the knuckle at a certain area if you wanted to replace the stud without pressing out the hub. The notch gives enough space for the stud to be knocked out. I don't know if it can be done on our civics but it wouldn't hurt to check.

[raiyo]

Alright, it's all fix now. Cost me $65 bucks, I was like wtf. The dude told me that my model of Honda is hard to replace/fix for the front. Took around 1 hour to fix. Damn nut put my ride on a floor lift and when going down on the otherside he dropped on my mid-pipe. The lift is shaped like /===\. I'm lowered with Tein S-Tech springs.

He used a pulling device thing to pull the hub that holds the stud. No idea what it is called. It screws on the lug nut(s) and yank, yank, yank.....after that..... I lefted. No idea how they got the lug out.

[02TafWhtSi]

well, at least its fixed now...:angel: